3 hours ago, Auxiliary said:

If "lug" the engine the symptoms occurs like if I am in 4th gear in 22 mp/h and gives it 40-60 % throttle rapidly the engine coughs and I am not able to accelerate much. I order to accelerate I need to shift down or accelerate more slowly in 4th gear. What could be the cause of this? Otherwise, I feel like the engine is in good shape, I have a lot of mechanical sympathy, especially when the engine is cold. 

How well do you service (including cleaning of engine parts) the car?

 

What does your air filter look like, when was it last changed, same for the spark plugs, (fuel filter), have you ever cleaned the throttle body (no MAF?)?

  

If you have new and clean air filter, spark plugs (fuel filter), clean throttle body (MAF?)  - I know you have a scan tool and no error codes but have you ever tried this as a reset, free, quick and easy to try, nothing to loose (check your Driver's Handbook before doing disconnect about radio codes or synchronising after). - 

 

 

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

How well do you service (including cleaning of engine parts) the car?

 

What does your air filter look like, when was it last changed, same for the spark plugs, (fuel filter), have you ever cleaned the throttle body (no MAF?)?

  

 

Last service was done by me in November. I replaced fuel filter air filter oil filter, new oil and a new oil separator. 

21 minutes ago, Auxiliary said:

 

Last service was done by me in November. I replaced fuel filter air filter oil filter, new oil and a new oil separator. 

What about cleaning throttle body (and MAF?) and spark plugs?

 

What gearbox do you have?

 

Any clutch problems.

 

Have you used a scan tool (or battery reset as in previous post) to clear or reset any error codes or faults?

 

Have you used a scan tool to check live data?

 

If it is cold where you are are you using a good quality fully synthetic engine as those cope with the cold, and heat, better?

 

On 23/01/2022 at 21:10, nta16 said:

What about cleaning throttle body (and MAF?) and spark plugs?

 

What gearbox do you have?

 

Any clutch problems.

 

Have you used a scan tool (or battery reset as in previous post) to clear or reset any error codes or faults?

 

Have you used a scan tool to check live data?

 

If it is cold where you are are you using a good quality fully synthetic engine as those cope with the cold, and heat, better?

 

I have not cleaned the throttle body or the spark plugs, how ever the plugs are only about 2 years old. No clutch problems, like slipping etc. I am worried about the battery reset that it might cause damage. 

Don't be worried, but don't expect it to do much either.

Your engine ECU has no permanent power feed; so every time you take the keys out of the ignition it is unpowered just as much as if you disconnected the battery.

 

Have you thought about looking at the misfire info that VCDS may be able to tell you about, as I mentioned upthread?

 

 

3 hours ago, Auxiliary said:

I am worried about the battery reset that it might cause damage. 

No it will not, after you reconnect the battery and start the car let it idle for 10-15minutes if you are worried then drive it.

 

Just to prove it can work. -

 

That poster's engine ECU does have a permanent supply. 😉

8 hours ago, Wino said:

That poster's engine ECU does have a permanent supply. 😉

Fair enough but what about the other systems on the car?

 

It' is accepted that @Auxiliary need not worry about disconnecting the battery and discharging wiring as this will not cause any damage. 

 

I'd take that opportunity to recharge the battery too, giving it a long, slow, low recharge possibly having to do that indoors if it's cold weather unless the charger can compensate for this with a winter setting, always a good idea to have plenty of battery power this time of year.

 

After running the car for a while I'd plug in a relevant machine to see what fresh codes appears but I have no idea what level of scan tool @Auxiliary has.

 

The car has done about 170,000 miles, had a judder and stubbles in 4th at about 20mph, personally if that's the total of the problem I would not be driving it at 20 mph in 4th and certainly avoid doing so, it is winter, unless there is more to the problem or it gets worse I would not worry about it until the weather improves unless I had access to a heated garage.  Perhaps there is too much concern with getting the last nth degree of mpg out of the car - and that might preclude going about 20 mph in 4th, driving it through the gears more briskly might well improve the mpg.

 

Auxiliary has a selection of suggestions and information and probably a preference as to which are more preferable, and no doubt other viewers too.  😊

  

Edited 25 January, 20224 yr by nta16
ETA: in 4th

9 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Fair enough but what about the other systems on the car?

The thread is about an engine judder, and possible fuel consumption issues. I personally prefer to try to remain relevant.

 

 

Fair enough, you are focusing on one area only, although you have expanded it to mpg, I prefer to see if there more to it, I think more information and history is relevant and on a forum like this there is the space to expand.  We've gone from a judder to also 20mph in 4th, some service history.  If the OP wants or prefers your more laser approach that's fine they can like others ignore my wider approach or just say they already know what I've put, or don't find it relevant.

 

Then you need to consider that there are also many more viewers than contributors.

 

Sorry but whenever I try short directness I get it wrong in someway so I stick with the wider approach.

 

14 hours ago, Auxiliary said:

I have not cleaned the throttle body or the spark plugs, how ever the plugs are only about 2 years old.

 

Well there's your problem I think.

 

Treat it to some new spark plugs. They cost virtually nothing, about £10 for a set of Bosch plugs here on the UK. At the same time inspect the old set for evidence of an individual cylinder issue, e.g. oil deposits or difference in appearance.

10 minutes ago, nta16 said:

although you have expanded it to mpg

Not me, the OP asked about that in his first post.

 

"Also, what is a healthy number of instant consumption when the engine is at operating temperature and idling? Mine usually displays 0.6 l/h. However, when I switch off the low beam it goes down to 0.5 l/h. 

 

When the judder is occurring, the instant idle consumption typically goes from 0.3-0.5 l/h, a more unsteady. "

 

Don't forget to give him your spiel about 'over complicated and intrusive software'; I'm sure that'll be useful. 😁

 

 

31 minutes ago, Wino said:

Not me, the OP asked about that in his first post.

And you found that relevant, or just being polite.

 

 

33 minutes ago, Wino said:

Don't forget to give him your spiel about 'over complicated and intrusive software'; I'm sure that'll be useful. 😁

Often very relevant - which bit do you disagree with.  😄

 

I'm sure that remark will get you a 'Thanks', I'll start the ball rollin'. 😁

 

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

had a judder and stubbles in 4th at about 20mph

 

I don't recommend this, even if it's possible. Keeping it in 3rd gear in a 20 is more recommended as the engine is less likely to labour depending on gearing.

 

If it's a petrol then an optimum match between engine revs and selected gear is critical. Well, it is with any car, but your petrols are more "rev happy".

 

In short, certainly because you can doesn't mean you should.

 

Hope this helps.

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

I would not be driving it at 20 mph...

 

As a side note. Those in built up housing areas or villages will not have an option since there is often a 20mph speed limit. Or such is the case in my area and surrounding towns and villages.

 

Hope this helps.

Thanks, I missed that, sorry I missed the words out, I meant to put  - I would not be driving it at 20 mph in 4th gear.

 

I will edit in now.

 

@Auxiliaryobviously you can follow whatever information / advice / opinion you want and if it excludes mine there are no bad feelings from me about that.

 

Checking with a scan tool is always a good idea as long as the error codes and not just taken only as the absolute answer but more often as a starting point of diagnosis.

 

@xmanhas put about checking and/or changing the spark plugs, IIRC it is not recommended to clean then now (other than a blow-out run perhaps).

 

I always where appropriate like to clean the throttle body (MAF).

 

I think most(?) would agree that the car's litres/hour (and litres/100 km) may not be that accurate so only taken as a very general guide.

 

I think it is not right to say doing as in the video I posted is the same as removing the key from the ignition, removing the key from the ignition does not then require the electric windows synchronisation (very easy to do), set the clock and put radio code in.  ETA: I was wrong, this is not required in practice, see below -"A manual entry of the code is normally not necessary". 

 

It is right to say doing the 'battery reset' may not help much or fully resolve as it depends on what the fault actually is and even if it does clear if there is an ongoing fault the issue will return but it is free and very easy to do and if it does little or nothing you have lost little or nothing.  If you take the opportunity to charge the battery whilst disconnected you do gain that.

 

There are lots of videos /threads /posts on this all over the internet, the following is VW specific but not as tidily illustrated  All the best to you. - 

 

 

Edited 25 January, 20224 yr by nta16
ETA: I was wrong (again)

19 hours ago, Wino said:

Your engine ECU has no permanent power feed; so every time you take the keys out of the ignition it is unpowered just as much as if you disconnected the battery.

The things you mention @nta16 aren't anything to do with the engine ECU, fairly obviously.

There is no MAF on a 1.2 HTP engine.

No Fabia with its original factory fit radio needs a code entering anywhere after a battery disconnect/reconnect, to the best of my knowledge.

Have you actually tried this thing yourself?

5 hours ago, Wino said:

 

Don't forget to give him your spiel about 'over complicated and intrusive software'; I'm sure that'll be useful. 😁

 

 

"Invasive" not intrusive 😆

 

I can say that with some confidence because I have read it so many times together with "a long low slow battery charge" and "battery reset" that I have started saying them in my sleep.

19 minutes ago, Wino said:

No Fabia with its original factory fit radio needs a code entering anywhere after a battery disconnect/reconnect, to the best of my knowledge.

Have you actually tried this thing yourself?

No I was just going on what it has in the Handbook, perhaps I've misread it.  You have misread what I put too, I didn't say the three things were to do with the ECU, MAF was in brackets (MAF) and yes you did misquote my spiel but I wasn't taking it as you were quoting more of a general p1ss-take than a quote.

 

I did ask you what you disagreed with but in a similar manner to your post, I don't mind answering others even if they don't answer me but it can drag on a bit and get a bit of a drag.

 

I can look for what's in the Handbook later or you can look for yourself, this should work I think. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

I won't be reading any more of your posts. Waste of time. Bye.

1 hour ago, Wino said:

I won't be reading any more of your posts. Waste of time. Bye.

Fair enough, I'm a bit disappointed you'd not the courtesy to answer my question when I've answered yours but as I've put before if anyone doesn't like or disagrees with my posts they can ignore the posts but I'm happy to be corrected when I make a mistake or get something wrong, which I often do, but I could do without the repeated chasing when I don't.

 

The Radio Manuals have  - "A manual entry of the code is normally not necessary" so if experience is that it's never been necessary I'll accept that and try and remember it.

 

Attachments for conformation,

2009/5 Owner's Manual. -

 

Radio(s) manual(s). -

 

Edited 25 January, 20224 yr by nta16

16 hours ago, Wino said:

No Fabia with its original factory fit radio needs a code entering anywhere after a battery disconnect/reconnect, to the best of my knowledge.

 

AFAIK, the only reason you'd need to code it in is if it wasn't the original stereo. At least such is the case in the Mk1, and I doubt it has changed. Mine just worked after work with the battery ground. 

On 16/01/2022 at 12:54, Auxiliary said:

Hi fellow Skoda owers,

 

The car in question is a Fabia 2009 with the 1.2 htp engine, BZG. When I'm idling after the car has been running at operating temperature for 20+ minutes, it judders sometimes. It feels like a small jump like the engine coughs silently however the idle speed is not affected by the juddering. Also, what is a healthy number of instant consumption when the engine is at operating temperature and idling? Mine usually displays 0.6 l/h. However, when I switch off the low beam it goes down to 0.5 l/h. 

 

When the judder is occurring, the instant idle consumption typically goes from 0.3-0.5 l/h, a more unsteady. 

 

What is a healthy number for the instant fuel consumption at idle? I'm guessing the cause of the judder is bad ignition coils.

 

Sorry for my poor English. 

 

I am rebooting this thread as its gone off into tiresome irrelevance.

 

The OP has 12-13 year old HTP 12v BZG that has done almost 170,000 miles. That is an average of 14-15k per year. Not sure if this is typical of the last 2 years, but if it is then its 2years/30,000 miles since the plugs were changed

 

From personal experience with my BZG, plugs are only good for around 30,000 miles by which time the gap is somewhat larger than optimum. It comes as no surprise that the first symptom of worn plugs are occasional misfires and rough running.

 

So change the plugs!

 

All the chat about instant consumption is irrelevant, it will jump about if the car is not firing on all 3 cylinders cleanly. If you turn your lights off of course the consumption will drop. In the UK, we don't have litre consumption displayed but mpg which goes --- when idling, but I worked out by other means that my idle consumption was around 0.7 litre per hour give or take a bit.

 

So change the plugs, examine the old plugs. You will be able to see if your engine is healthy or starting to burn oil or running rich/weak or one cylinder is markedly different to another. If they are simply worn, i.e if electrodes worn and/or gap is large its important you change them as the elevated ignition voltage that results will often kill the ignition coils next.

 

 

Edited 26 January, 20224 yr by xman