Hi , I am currently facing above errors and very humble mechanic is guiding me for investigation as he is busy & will sort out after 2-3 days, meantime I did basic check for all fuseses , hopefully MAF sensor may be issue , this year MOT went very smooth.

But I have to chang  Bank1 sensor in 1.5 years  luckily it was in warranty for 2 years bought from ebay so it was free just costed me labour otherwise car is going strong.

Changed battery as well it was more than 3 years old.

 

 Keep u posted wht happens , searched the group but never found the location of MAF sensor as somebody mentioned that it 2007 fabia,1.4, does not have MAF  sensor rather it have manifold pressure sensor and an air temp sensor, but there was no clear image available , watched utube as well but no luck so some clue I have got it hopefully it would be left side of car  near coolant bottle or right side near throttle body , I will check if there any MAF type sensor is available soon.

 

Car is blowing wet carbon ,misfiring , driving but get switch off frequently , hope engine gasket is fine.

Also right side window motor is also broken and door may need sealing as water gets in car  which would be sorted soon hopefully.  if anybody is breaking please do let m know about window motor. 

 

Cheers  

Misfires will be plugs or a coil pack and there's no MAF to worry about, check for vacuum leaks in the brake servo line as well.

Thanks for advice please, I think u may be right vacuum leaks could be  major culprits as 6 months back I have changed Bank1 lambada sensor( 2nd in 2 years) & spark plugs and 1 faulty coil . I had servo brake pipe issue approx 4-5 years back the behaviour of car seems different this time I had checked all pipes as servo pipe looks still new touched physically seems alright, engine speed is fluctuating, car switches off when stopped, running lean, car throwing  very thick & wet black smoke with carbon particle, the error code is P0171 and P0106. 

Hopefully mechanic will look the issue on Friday and advice further..

Thanks for ur time please to share ur suggestion.

cheers 

 

raky, errors codes usually only tell you where to start looking, your diagnostics, not that they give the solution so do not change the sensor just because it gives an error code, you could just be shooting the messenger.

 

If you really do need to change a sensor then buy a good quality one.  VW, Bosch and other labels on them and the boxes do not always mean they are the best but they should still be good, check with others about brands (or non-brands) as often it can be a gamble and the new sensors can be unreliable sooner or later and cause problems or need replacing again.

 

Same with spark plugs and coils, buy good quality makes from reliable sources, fake/counterfeit parts are often sold at lower prices but will be a lot more expensive because they will probably a totally waste of time and money and can cause more problems on the car.

 

And do not neglect basic servicing (of the whole car), things like air filters and other stuff are often overlooked.  

 

Good luck.

 

p0171 can be caused by many issues as the guys said vacuum leak is a big culprit but other things can cause this error code i had this code and it was down to a leaking flexi on the cat so you really need to do a thorough search of your car mate.

Thanks @nta16 I generally buy from euro /SRS parts bosch spark plugs but I think electronics parts in market are cheaper but have less life for sure full agree with you at the end it cost high .

Thanks  @Stewartasb  that makes sense, will not just chnage it will do test before changing I have multimeter and found some circuit info as well  as I have basic technical skills,

 

Can any body please guide me please  where is the so called MAF sensor as I have seen two sensors close by dipstick but very difficult to reach I presume one would be MAF as it was looking like that. if MAX sensor is near dipstick than certainly mechanic help would be great (hoping he comes  tomorrow). 

 

Please find attached images of my car like ... These images are NOT of my CAR but seems matching with my car .  

Once again thanks all let us keep sharing info so that planet can be saved from junk.

 

Wish some expert finds solution of window motor as they go bin may be because of 1-2 resistor or transistor( worth pennies ) issues in circuit. 

Thanks , kind regards raky

engine_image.pdf engine2.pdf

Window motors have a look at this 

 

#10 is the MAP/IAT sensor  ( Manifold Absolute Pressure & Inlet Air Temperature sensor) the sensors often get gummed up with oil deposits you can clean them but only use carb or brake spray cleaner, do not use a brush or anything else as they are quite delicate.

Edited 31 March, 20224 yr by nige8021

MAP might be better cleaned with electrical contact cleaner as you may already have a can and it won't leave a residue and you can use it to clean other contacts and electrical items as required - always check all connections and clean as required and check wiring too. - https://knowhow.napaonline.com/guide-map-sensor-cleaning/#:~:text=Use an electric parts cleaner,let the MAP sensor dry.

 

MAP looks something like this. -

 

 

I'm not a fan of Bosch IIRC often it seems it's just a brand label stuck on the part and box, not a fan of Bosch sparkplugs either but clean them if required and check gap rather than change them if they're OK and not too old and too used (I prefer (genuine) NGK).

 

If you're going the servicing route you might also check your air filter too and change it if required, perhaps also the fuel filter if required.

 

Also (instead of WD-40 Multi Use) as penetrating/releasing fluid, lubricant, water displacer look at GT85 works better and lasts longer than WD-40 Multi-Use, has PTFE and smells nice too. - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/

 

If you want to know the cause of the error code(s) you could do all that has been suggested to you in this thread one thing at a time and clear the error codes and drive the car each time to see if they return but if you just want the car running and don't care about knowing the exact cause do as much as you want and clear the codes, drive the car and see what if any returns.  If you get codes back do more of the suggestions until you run out.

 

Good luck.

 

Just remembered - check your PCV valve. -

 

13 hours ago, raky said:

car throwing  very thick & wet black smoke with carbon particle, the error code is P0171 and P0106

 

9 hours ago, nige8021 said:

Window motors have a look at this 

 

#10 is the MAP/IAT sensor  ( Manifold Absolute Pressure & Inlet Air Temperature sensor) the sensors often get gummed up with oil deposits you can clean them but only use carb or brake spray cleaner, do not use a brush or anything else as they are quite delicate.

 

 

Much appreciated Nige, thought so about sensor position in my car (2007 16 BBZ ) it is at very  awkward position near the dipstick and possible need some pipes to be removed before reaching there , on Motor also grateful to share the info please. Will consider checks  before changining sensor since car have high mileage so possible may need change those. Cheers 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

Just remembered - check your PCV valve. -

 

 

Much appreciated  Nigel , Sure will ask mechanic to look PCV valve as well , Cheers  

BBZ engine MAP sensor and PCV valve positions shown with red and blue arrows respectively:

 

PCV valve looks like it might be a PITA to get at with the engine fitted, I hope it doesn't involve removing too much brittle plastic to get at it if required.

 

I can almost guarantee there won't be anything wrong with the MAP sensor.

Yes, I tend to agree sep, and had intended to say that, but failed.

3 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

I can almost guarantee there won't be anything wrong with the MAP sensor.

Possibly/probably not but cleaning it also involves checking the connection, cleaning the connection (writing the theme tune, singing the theme tune) the wires, and more importantly your timidity in not even offering up a body part as a guarantee and putting almost and not "it won't be that" - you won't be welcome in the Car Mechanic's Arms or feel their embrace with that lack of attitude.

 

You were more certain about it being the plugs or coil which is good odds but perhaps something might be effecting the plugs to cause a misfire and perhaps there's more than one thing causing the issue.  There's muck coming out the back, perhaps there's muck at the front.  I'm always amazed at what can be put about a totally unseen car, unless raky has previously put up photos of his engine.

 

I've no problem with being disagreed with or being wrong, I very often am wrong, it's up to raky what's to be ignored, and the very humble mechanic may totally dismiss it and my other thoughts anyway, though in my life experience I've only ever a very few (rare?) humble mechanics, most have been opposite or totally opposite, some would have the sugar out of your tea as you drank it!

  

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Possibly/probably not but cleaning it also involves checking the connection, cleaning the connection (writing the theme tune, singing the theme tune) the wires, and more importantly your timidity in not even offering up a body part as a guarantee and putting almost and not "it won't be that" - you won't be welcome in the Car Mechanic's Arms or feel their embrace with that lack of attitude.

 

You were more certain about it being the plugs or coil which is good odds but perhaps something might be effecting the plugs to cause a misfire and perhaps there's more than one thing causing the issue.  There's muck coming out the back, perhaps there's muck at the front.  I'm always amazed at what can be put about a totally unseen car, unless raky has previously put up photos of his engine.

 

I've no problem with being disagreed with or being wrong, I very often am wrong, it's up to raky what's to be ignored, and the very humble mechanic may totally dismiss it and my other thoughts anyway, though in my life experience I've only ever a very few (rare?) humble mechanics, most have been opposite or totally opposite, some would have the sugar out of your tea as you drank it!

  

 

My advice has nothing to do with anything you said, I didn't read it, it is based entirely on twelve years experience on these fora, I have never seen a single failed MAP sensor, they are incredibly robust and simply do not fail.

31 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

My advice has nothing to do with anything you said, I didn't read it, it is based entirely on twelve years experience on these fora, I have never seen a single failed MAP sensor, they are incredibly robust and simply do not fail.

In that case you won't be aware that I never put that it might have failed or to replace it, I did put clean it which IIRC you and/or others have said will achieve very little or nothing - which is fair enough. 

 

I was still surprise by your lack of full commitment, are you feeling alright, normally you are certain and decisive.  I'd still be interested in which body part you'd guarantee that there won't be anything wrong with the MAP (and how loose you could be with that definition in a lightening strike chance there was).  I bet my left testicle that if the MAP is cleaned along with other work and the problem is resolved that it was the MAP cleaning wot wun it.

 

I know you don't see the need but I have to put similes so others can see I'm just having banter with you, I was surprised by the "almost" though.  😁

 

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

My advice has nothing to do with anything you said, I didn't read it

 

Very wise, life is too short as it is.

I can see a chris rock smack on the horizon the way this is heading 😆

Dear Pete , Much apprecaited for image , mechanic came in just tried to take out MAF sensor without any luck the strip of dipstick is stopping the access for unblock the lock , he tested the car with full accelerator apart from back wet smoke everything seemed fine at low speed it idling is not stable but with full speed black wet smoke is thrown also noticed today that my  coolant had increased the box was near the min level but now it has gone above max level which was weird for me. 

I have also tried to pull the sensor but seems lock is not getting released pressure with screw driver is not working as opened few other sensors without any issue as understood  the mechanism. I have scared to drive the car as it would spoil the coil/plugs .

 

I have found another  sensor ( don't no ) near MAF sensor as show in image was able to open and test the voltage it had 5 & .2 volts has 3 wires tested all with each other with ignition on, but when I removed I saw the car had stability light on ... and it went back when I put back.  

 

Mechanic advice was to change Cat converted as unburned petrol smell was also observed by him and even my me ( post covid less smell sensing ) Some interesting image may help others.

Next week he will take it to garage and do more physical check up after putting on ramp. 

 

Thank you so much for your support and help. I shall come back to you on motor once I sort out engine issue.

Good luck . 

Cheers 

  

 

Edited 1 April, 20224 yr by raky

Dear All , Pete @sepulchrave@Stewartasb@nta16@J.R.Reall apprecaite your time to share experience and help me , I think these two(MAF&PCV )are  possibly at are positioned at very difficult location would defiantly need technical expertise and necessary tool  to take them out or clean them. (99% mechanics may have technical knowledge but does not have electronics knowledge and no body have patience to test these sensors or electronics , so thinking to change maf and catalytic converter( it was changed when it 60k now 120k) while on ramp would request mechanic to look pcv sensor as well I shall keep my voltmeter in case if he allows me test it and  check values. 

 

Really grateful to you all learned people for sharing knowledge, very delighted that at least I had gained good knowledge about the issue and possibly can share with friends if they ask suggestion that way we can reduce co2 on planet not unnecessary chaning the parts which still may have life in them. Cheers 

I'm not sure what that 3-way connector in your pictures is from, maybe knock sensor? That's somewhere under the inlet manifold. 

 

Dear All , Thank you so much for taking pain to share your experiences to help me, So far some good news first I was able to disconnect the fussy connector so called map/maf sensor with laptop small screwdriver just small twist was enough after disconnecting it has observed more engine lights( of course) on dashboard( stability epc etc) but car had stopped throwing wet carbon it was just white clean smoke so it seems root cause may be dirty sensor but I have ordered new from euro parts and will get it changed on Monday, I am not sure if mechanic will clean and put back twice also it has done already 120k so best is it change it .

 it is on very difficult position hope mechanic would be able to remove without needing ramp. 

 

Looks it has two sensor near dipstick - 3 pin and 4 pin( MAP).  map sensor is fully blocked with dispstick steel holder. keep you posted the progress hope it helps others.

 

Cheers 

Looking at the wiring diagrams I can't see any 3 pin connectors that are in the vicinity of the MAP/IAT sensor, the Knock sensor @Pete_Ex-Wino mentioned is a 2 pin connector, the only other connector I can think of in that area is the 2 pin for the crankcase vent hose heater element ?