7 hours ago, automass said:

i saw it is charging..and volt was jumping from 13 to 14.8 and stable in 13.

That's normal behaviour, the Battery Management System tries to charge to battery to 80% SOC so when it reaches that the voltage will drop - until you get onto the brakes when it will go into micro-regenerative braking mode and increase the battery voltage.

 

In normal driving I see the battery voltage go to 14.x after starting then drop to around 12.x for most of the time when driving, but increase again to top up the battery and when braking.

15 hours ago, automass said:

OBDeleven is not connecting with the device from today. I tried to rescan to delete the error of misfireings which wasn't deleting yesterday. I sent email to the custoemr care dept for OBDEleven. anyways, I tried everything, I mean my ac/fan/mobline charging everything was off, but still it didn't work for start-stop. yesterday the fault was not even deleting about misfires...so I was guessing if the misfire is genuine or not and if it is the case for start-stop being not working!

 

NB: I forgot to add something. As i had my dash cam connected with the mains in the house, i never saw it switched off which is not the case in the car..in the car if it is long drive, i can see the dash cam goes off. so does it mean my alternator is not charging the battery and therefore dash cam can not have enough power supply. The halfords guy said alternator kicks in after 1-2 hrs long drive.

I only saw the added text you wrote here. 

The dashcam will not switch off as long as it is connected to a power supply. If you can see it switch off when your driving means it has bad connection somewhere on the car. It is not because of the battery or the alternator not providing enough power or else the engine would stop running as it needs power, much more than the dashcam does. It is beginning to look as if the best course of action is to book car in for proper check over. 

I have found how to code battery by OBDeleven. Information there I can see, seems wrong to me. 

Especially Rated battery capacity..it says 69Ah, but my battery capacity is 75Ah, Serial number i managed to check from the side of the battery is 10528018, but in the coding is totally different. battery manufacturer i am not sure. Could someone check if the coding/info is right or wring. 

 

The battery i bought was EFB096 from halfords .

 

 

Edited 31 August, 20232 yr by automass

If you can't find the makers details etc, just change the last 2 digits of the existing code number and input the correct Ah rating and save the settings. The digit change is enough to make the system understand the battery has been changed. 

Edited 31 August, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

2 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

If you can't find the makers details etc, just change the last 2 digits of the existing code number and input the correct Ah rating and save the settings. 

 

So, do you think battery coding is wrong or somehow it went back to original battery coding i had previously?

1 minute ago, automass said:

 

So, do you think battery coding is wrong or somehow it went back to original battery coding i had previously?

It clearly was not saved to the systems memory. 

13 hours ago, Graham Butcher said:

Maybe it was doing a regen of the DPF? Mine also stops at times after a long trip the day before or on a really warm day, at the first stop.

I know when it's doing a regen because the idling speed is at 1000 rpm. Just a quirk of the system.

New code has been accepted. 

2 minutes ago, automass said:

New code has been accepted. 

I'd check it after a day or so that it's still showing the correct details.

2 hours ago, automass said:

I have found how to code battery by OBDeleven. Information there I can see, seems wrong to me. 

Especially Rated battery capacity..it says 69Ah, but my battery capacity is 75Ah, Serial number i managed to check from the side of the battery is 10528018, but in the coding is totally different. battery manufacturer i am not sure. Could someone check if the coding/info is right or wring. 

 

The battery i bought was EFB096 from halfords .

 

 

If the system thinks it's got a 69Ah battery, then it's possible your 75Ah would never be charged enough.

It seems start-stop working perfectly fine now and checked the coding couple of times after restarting the car each time. Coding is not changed. I think during the jump start coding has been changed as someone said in this thread that negative terminal has not to be connected with battery instead in metal in the car.(I'll remember this for the next time). or may have been halfords guy didn't do it properly.

I also scanned the car, no fault code was detected (cyl 3, random cyl misfire etc).

 

Only problem is when the car starts from stop, it gives a tiny little jolt and reconnecting the mobile charger and dash cam. in this process dash cam gets powered off. Don't know why! but anyways, its cheap dash cam and also problem could be with it's cable.

I am happy that there is nothing wrong with ignition coil pack and spark plugs. fingers crossed this misfire and star-stop problem is not coming back.

Glad to hear that the system is working OK now that the correct coding for the battery has been inserted. With regard to the dashcam and the suspect power lead, be very careful with it if the cable is broken, and it creates a short circuit than it is a major fire hazard, as are phone charger leads or add on after market satnav power leads, their weak spots are area within 6" of the plug as this part gets a lot or wear and tear with being pushed and pulled in and out of the socket and over time bad connections on the cable and also bad contacts on both the plug and socket will all cause problems at some point.

 

I really can't stress enough that it is always best wherever possible to buy the optional hardwire kits for them and install them, routing the cables out of sight also tends them less attractive to the thieves as who would buy a device without its power lead and your licence will be better protected by always being ON when required along with your car from the reduced fire hazard from worn leads.  

This is really insane..We went to day out trip to Bibury and in the way back to London car broken down with flat battery in Membury West Service station right now. I didn't keep anything plugged in in 12v port to avoid battery problem. But still battery went flat..called break down service, reluctant to spend £20 to buy jump start cable unnecessary.

I don't know whether the battery is the problem or Alternator..if i go to halfords tomorrow morning they will be saying battery is ok..probably alternator is the problem...what can I do to sort this problem immediately? I can see live data through OBDeleven if anybody can advise me to test the alternator.. 

 

N.B: battery got 5yrs warranty and i am in 1yr 4mnts now. Can't believe battery can get faulty in this small amount of time.

Edited 1 September, 20232 yr by automass

4 minutes ago, automass said:

what can I do to sort this problem immediately?

 

Unplug the shunt resistor and revert to a standard alternator charging profile which will also disable start/stop and all the regenerative charging Bravo Sugar.

On 31/08/2023 at 16:16, Graham Butcher said:

and it creates a short circuit than it is a major fire hazard

 

That is hyperbole, the accessory socket is fused and as long as the dashcam does not use knats hair wire for the conductors there will be no risk, the fuses job is to protect the wiring not the appliance.

5 minutes ago, automass said:

This is really insane..We went to day out trip to Bibury and in the way back to London car broken down with flat battery in Membury West Service station right now. I didn't keep anything plugged in in 12v port to avoid battery problem. But still battery went flat..called break down service, reluctant to spend £20 to buy jump start cable unnecessary.

I don't know whether the battery is the problem or Alternator..if i go to halfords tomorrow morning they will be saying battery is ok..probably alternator is the problem...what can I do to sort this problem immediately? I can see live data through OBDeleven if anybody can advise me to test the alternator.. 

 

N.B: battery got 5yrs warranty and i am in 1yr 4mnts now. Can't believe battery can get faulty in this small amount of time.

I refer you back to the points I mentioned in an earlier post of mine regarding the drive belt may be slack, or a bad connection in the wiring somewhere, may be the charging regulator is damaged or indeed the alternator could be toast. There are many other things it could be, remember you were having the OBD11 flagging up a misfire etc, then it was saying it was not authorised etc so it could even be a fault in the bus wiring  that connects all the ECU's in the together in order to make the car work.

 

There really is only way that you can certain as to what the real problem is and that is to book the car into your local Skoda service centre and have them thoroughly investigate the problem with all of their diagnostic devices which are way better than the device you have. 

 

There is no easy DIY solution to this type of event without the right tools and the skills that these people have and years of experience.

I am not talking about to start the car right now..talking about how can i fix it once and for all and what do you suspect is faulty?

To book the car with skoda is not so easy..they have quite a long back log almost everywhere in London..I should suspect either the battery or alternator..there is nothing else wrong with the car..i m pretty sure.

3 minutes ago, automass said:

I am not talking about to start the car right now..talking about how can i fix it once and for all and what do you suspect is faulty?

 

I'm sorry, I think I will need an interpreter, I was answering the question you asked:

 

21 minutes ago, automass said:

what can I do to sort this problem immediately?

 

I have given you my suggestion to fix it once and for all, you are free to carry on breaking down if you dont like it for whatever reason.

7 minutes ago, automass said:

To book the car with skoda is not so easy..they have quite a long back log almost everywhere in London..I should suspect either the battery or alternator..there is nothing else wrong with the car..i m pretty sure.

Try and book it into an auto electrical shop. I'd have more confidence in them than a dealer.

54 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

That is hyperbole, the accessory socket is fused and as long as the dashcam does not use knats hair wire for the conductors there will be no risk, the fuses job is to protect the wiring not the appliance.

That is also assuming that the correct fuse is in place or has NOT even been bypassed previously. I nearly had a nasty fire in my old car which was 100% as original, but a power lead plugged into the 12V power socket developed a fault and the wire was actually glowing red-hot, smoking and almost set the leather seat on fire, but the fuse did not blow, so it is not hyperbole at all but is a real possible situation.

 

I think that the 12v power socket is backed yup with a 20A fuse, which means it that will allow 30A to flow for a long time and a dashcam power cable is not capable of withstanding 20A even, it will glow red-hot but will NOT blow the fuse.

 

This is why I say that a little knowledge is very dangerous in the wrong hands, as it is simply not true that a 20A fuse will not allow more than 20A to flow because it will blow if more does flow through it.

 

Firstly you have to understand what "Ohms Law" is and how it works. Wire adds in resistance, and that resistance can glow red-hot or white-hot, i.e. a bulb, but that heat can and does cause cars to catch fire, even bad connection i.e., dirty connections can also cause fires. See the chart below, the 60A fuse needs to see about 2 times its 60A, so 120A to flow before it will blow quickly. In fact, it will happily allow 40% more current to pass indefinitely without blowing, hence why fuses in buildings have been banned for a long time and circuit breakers are now mandatory because they will blow far sooner than a fuse will. The 60A fuse will as the graph shows carry 100A+ for a really prolonged time, and the cable connected to it will more than likely be getting toasty and the insulation can breakdown.

 

Hence, why I advised automass to seek trained professional help as he is clearly out of his comfort zone here. I'm not as I'm a retired electrical engineer and electrics are not a thing to take lightly, it carries some real potential to really spoil anyone's day.

 

Edited 1 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

49 minutes ago, automass said:

I am not talking about to start the car right now..talking about how can i fix it once and for all and what do you suspect is faulty?

I'm sorry to have to say this, but you do have to consider either a dealer's service centre or, as @ordshas said, an auto electrical shop. This has been going now far too long and there is a real possibility that it could cost you far more in the long by trying to clutch at straws, you clearly need someone trained in auto electrics to look at it for you.

Dont be so b****y condescending, 30 years ago I was designing and manufacturing vehicle electronics and then moved on to access control systems, even my little knowledge in dangerous hands does not need a lecture on ohms law which I learned as a 16 year old apprentice.

 

The "short circuit" that you describe would blow the fuse except in the overactive imagination scenario where someone has removed the OE wiring and powered the accessory circuit directly from the battery. A wire glowing is overloaded conductors  carrying too high a current not a short circuit, the groundsheet of my tent has a gaffer tape repair where I used a 12V tyre compressor to inflate an airbed instead of a blower with a similar result, heat not fire.

 

Retired Electrical Engineer, - I thought you said you were a bus mechanic? I note that according to your graphs for fuses 10 times the rating of the one in question that "a long time" or even "infinity" is anything over 1 second.

 

You can have the last word if you wish but please keep it non condescending and hopefully of help to the OP, I repeat my advice to him to his request to "sort this problem immediately" is to disconnect the shunt resistor in the battery negative (or is it the positive?) lead to revert to a standard charging profile without any of the other nonsense.

 

 

Edited 2 September, 20232 yr by J.R.

Fuses fitted to cars are of the slow blow type. They are fundamentally there to protect the wiring loom, not necessarily the wiring of items plugged into aux sockets designed in the 1950's. A socket designed for a cigarette lighter with inconsistent connection force and incompatible or daft contact material (chrome plated steel). Spring loaded floppy domed pin.

 

A slow blow fuse can tolerate 2x its rated current for minutes.

 

Several years ago on a winter continental trip in my mk1 Alhambra, we used a plug in kettle for coffee and soup. After several jug fulls it wasn't long before smoke and a horrible cable burning smell started coming from the plug. The 10 or 15A fuse didn't blow.

 

A lot of plug in devices that use that cigarette lighter socket have thin leads, for flexibilty, cost etc. A lot dont have strain relief and even have coaxial type cable. People pull and twist cables to remove plugs and this invariably leads to cable damage. A fuse in the plug would be a good idea, but never seen that.

 

I'm not aware this it's major issue apart from the "bloody thing isn't working" but there is a theoretical potential for an electrical fire.

 

Having witnessed it myself

Edited 2 September, 20232 yr by xman

Guys, we are going out of the topic. Please we are here just to help each other.. don't take everything personal..

 

Anyways, i came to halfords and the guy inspected the battery  again and found the battery is ok as usual..Finally, he checked his system and said it was not the right battery..so he replaced it with a smaller one which has only 65ah even size is smaller than original one. Battery sleeve doesn't even doesn't fit.

I am not very happy about it..but they said they have go to by according to their system..

 

N.B: i checked the coding and that is not right, but i saw the guy used obd tool to do coding..so it's confusing now.