3 hours ago, langers2k said:

You'll need to perform basic settings after changes to 4b. So you'll probably get an error until then.

 

You already know what the coding was so worse case, you set it back.

I have done it and code was accepted but no luck of getting rid off that fault code. Headlight range control warning popped up but I was able to sort it out by basic settings..I am at least happy for that.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by automass
It also gives me faults in d6 amd d7

11 hours ago, automass said:

My front and back are LED headlight.

Since headlamps are only on the front of a vehicle that cannot be true???

7 hours ago, automass said:

Dash cam and faulty USB charger are to be blamed for battery problem. I am pretty certain about it now. USB charger has been changed, things all are working good now.

What has changed your mind about them being the cause? 

6 hours ago, automass said:

I have done it and code was accepted but no luck of getting rid off that fault code. Headlight range control warning popped up but I was able to sort it out by basic settings..I am at least happy for that.

Didn't you once say that you had someone manually adjust the lights as they were pointing at the sky? 

6 hours ago, automass said:

I have done it and code was accepted but no luck of getting rid off that fault code. Headlight range control warning popped up but I was able to sort it out by basic settings

 

Good start.

 

When you say no luck getting rid of that fault code, do you mean the "Additional installations detected" code? If so, you're going to need to post the adaption channels for me to check.

 

When you try the backup, only have "adaption" selected and see if that works.

 

Otherwise, try and find these channels adaption channels and see what they are set to:

        Installation list, specified installations:
            Multifunction Module:
            Multifunction module on the second bus connection:
            Light Control Left:
            Light Control Right:
            Light Control Left 2:
            Light Control Right 2:

 

You can also look at the list I made previously to see what differences you have, please don't make any changes yet, just note down the differences  Don't use the lcode in the other thread, it's for a vRS with independent suspension rather than the beam your car has.

 

 

56 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

What has changed your mind about them being the cause? 

I know my car. there was no wrong with electrical or anything with it. As I have changed the faulty USB charger everything seems working perfectly fine. in 2018 i had the similar type of issue. I bought a Dash Cam from ebay and left it connected over night in 12v port which drained the battery, that was with old battery with old Octavia (63 plate )anyway.  This time with newer battery, I couldn't find any other fault in my car other than faulty USB charger. So, I am guessing this is somehow causing the battery flatten. however, the fault code (Data bus front light_Additional installation detected)  I have in my car, I am not completely overlooking it. Cause it's still hard to believe that a dash cam connected with faulty USB charger can cause new powerfull battery to be drained, i would rather say damaged the battery cell, cause the other day when battery went flat, dash cam was discennected.

 

51 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

Didn't you once say that you had someone manually adjust the lights as they were pointing at the sky? 

 

I had my rear coil spring replaced by local garage few months ago. that was the time when my head lamp lavelling sensor was snapped by that garage guy. I didn't know about levelling sensor, as i was driving on the night time, people used to beep on me. So, I was trying to figure out why were they doing it. then someone in this forum said I have a sensor on the back and probably that was snapped during the coil spring removal (which is very common). So, i had to replace and recode by the garage to fix that problem. 

 

N.B: before I realising about headlamp levelling sensor being snapped, I tried to fix the beam by obdeleven and that was the time this fault code (Data bus front light_Additional installation detected) generated.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by automass

29 minutes ago, langers2k said:

 

Good start.

 

When you say no luck getting rid of that fault code, do you mean the "Additional installations detected" code? If so, you're going to need to post the adaption channels for me to check.

 

When you try the backup, only have "adaption" selected and see if that works.

 

Otherwise, try and find these channels adaption channels and see what they are set to:

        Installation list, specified installations:
            Multifunction Module:
            Multifunction module on the second bus connection:
            Light Control Left:
            Light Control Right:
            Light Control Left 2:
            Light Control Right 2:

 

Yes, "Additional installation detected" wasn't going away. Well, I changed the long code back to where it was. I can change the code again if you want me to as i know how to do basic setting to get rid of Error: headlight range control.

 

See the pic of screenshot

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by automass

17 minutes ago, automass said:

Yes, "Additional installation detected" wasn't going away. Well, I changed the long code back to where it was. I can change the code again if you want me to as i know how to do basic setting to get rid of Error: headlight range control.

 

Please set the lcode back to the one I gave you: 000000070100046600003D01010000000000000000000000000000000000

 

It's more likely to be correct given no other scan online shares your current coding. I have the same headlights on my FL MK3 and have a similar lcode to the above apart from the suspension coding.

 

Once that's done and you've rerun basic settings, please try changing these adaption channels:

- Light Control Left 2 to Yes
- Light Control Right 2 to Yes

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by langers2k
formatting

3 minutes ago, langers2k said:

 

Please set the lcode back to the one I gave you: 000000070100046600003D01010000000000000000000000000000000000

 

It's more likely to be correct given no other scan online shares your current coding. I have the same headlights on my FL MK3 and have a similar lcode to the above apart from the suspension coding.

 

Once that's done and you've rerun basic settings, please try changing these adaption channels:

- Light Control Left 2 to Yes
- Light Control Right 2 to Yes

Just want to share this history as well in case it helps.

wow..wow..this fault has gone away.  Check the scan result..I am so thankful to you langers2k. I owe you drink...

@langers2kjust wondering what is    

Light Control Left

Light Control Right for? 

I have changed light control left 2 and light control right 2 what are those other two for.

 

Now back to the original post

 

Battery has been stressed tested to check if alternator is working or not. Result came as Alternator works fine.. So there is no other problem in the car. It was the battery itself damaged by constant draining out by dash cam which was connected toa faulty USB charger..now my concern is this smaller battery..i really don't like it. even these garage people saying it is way too small for my car. So what can I do with this smaller battery from Halfords!

 

 

1 minute ago, automass said:

@langers2kjust wondering what is    

Light Control Left

Light Control Right for? 

I have changed light control left 2 and light control right 2 what are those other two for.

 

It depends what headlights are fitted and which address they appear on. As yours are D6/D7, they need light control 2 enabled

 

11 minutes ago, automass said:

now my concern is this smaller battery..i really don't like it. even these garage people saying it is way too small for my car. So what can I do with this smaller battery from Halfords!

 

Go back to Halfords and tell them they've fitted the wrong part. Then have them fit the correct part....?

10 minutes ago, langers2k said:

 

It depends what headlights are fitted and which address they appear on. As yours are D6/D7, they need light control 2 enabled

 

 

Go back to Halfords and tell them they've fitted the wrong part. Then have them fit the correct part....?

I thought the OP said that he also checked the list for the correct battery for his car and agreed that it was the correct battery, this thread has more twists than the TV series Dallas had 🙄 It is pretty easy to check on their website as it is on others, just enter the cars' registration number, and it will list all the compatible batteries or what ever part you're looking for.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

34 minutes ago, automass said:

@langers2kjust wondering what is    

Light Control Left

Light Control Right for? 

I have changed light control left 2 and light control right 2 what are those other two for.

 

Now back to the original post

 

Battery has been stressed tested to check if alternator is working or not. Result came as Alternator works fine.. So there is no other problem in the car. It was the battery itself damaged by constant draining out by dash cam which was connected toa faulty USB charger..now my concern is this smaller battery..i really don't like it. even these garage people saying it is way too small for my car. So what can I do with this smaller battery from Halfords!

 

 

I'd love to know what has made you suspect that the USB charger was faulty when it was providing power to the dashcam, so it seemed OK and also presumably your mobile phone? It just doesn't make any sense, if it was faulty, how come the devices it was powering were working OK?

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

Just now, Graham Butcher said:

I thought the OP said that he also checked the list for the correct battery for his car and agreed that it was the correct battery, this thread has more twists than the TV series Dallas had 🙄

 

Heh - it's certainly quite hard to follow at points

 

From a very quick skim, it appears it was fitted with a 096 battery and now has a 013. I'm not sure what was fitted previously.

 

Using a couple of random reg plates from Autotrader, Halfords/ECP suggest 013, 027 or 096. I've no idea which is 'correct'. Hopefully the OP took note of the original battery...

 

The PR codes for the car won't tell you much, for example I have PR-J0T "Battery 360 A (69 Ah)". Someone with access to the parts database might be able to offer a better suggestion based on the OP's VIN: TMBBC7NE9J0155483

1 minute ago, Graham Butcher said:

I'd love to know what has made you suspect that the USB charger was faulty when it was providing power to the dashcam, so it seemed OK and also presumably your mobile phone? 

 

It was strange fault! As i said during start-stop dash cam didn't work and mobile used to reconnect for charging every time i had stop and starts..

Battery i have now is ok as per halfords website but it is just 65ah. If my car allows i would prefer to go more powerful one. Halfords guy said my car can not handle 75ah battery..that's what i need to find out whether 75ah is ok for my car or not.

1 minute ago, langers2k said:

 

Heh - it's certainly quite hard to follow at points

 

From a very quick skim, it appears it was fitted with a 096 battery and now has a 013. I'm not sure what was fitted previously.

 

Using a couple of random reg plates from Autotrader, Halfords/ECP suggest 013, 027 or 096. I've no idea which is 'correct'. Hopefully the OP took note of the original battery...

 

The PR codes for the car won't tell you much, for example I have PR-J0T "Battery 360 A (69 Ah)". Someone with access to the parts database might be able to offer a better suggestion based on the OP's VIN: TMBBC7NE9J0155483

Hmm, the OP's engine is not that hard to crank, being a lowish CC and petrol, had it been a diesel then the battery cranking AH rating is going to be far more critical, but hey ho.

3 minutes ago, automass said:

Battery i have now is ok as per halfords website but it is just 65ah. If my car allows i would prefer to go more powerful one. Halfords guy said my car can not handle 75ah battery..that's what i need to find out whether 75ah is ok for my car or not.

 

Check your PR-codes to see if it matches or exceeds the factory fitted battery and if the battery monitoring system info matches the fitted battery.

 

Assuming both are true, then it'll be fine and you don't need to worry about it.

 

I don't have much more to add so I'll leave you to it

This is the original battery.

2 minutes ago, automass said:

 

It was strange fault! As i said during start-stop dash cam didn't work and mobile used to reconnect for charging every time i had stop and starts..

Battery i have now is ok as per halfords website but it is just 65ah. If my car allows i would prefer to go more powerful one. Halfords guy said my car can not handle 75ah battery..that's what i need to find out whether 75ah is ok for my car or not.

Well its my understanding, that your car or indeed any car can handle a larger capacity battery as long as it can physical fit on the battery tray and the connection leads will fit onto the battery OK. It is not always a necessary thing to recode the system when going from a smaller battery to a larger one, as the battery will not deliver any more amps to the starter motor, as that is governed by Ohms Law and the starter motor has not been changed and neither has the voltage, so the resistance of the starter will remain the same. The battery just has the ability to crank for longer periods before it shows signs of loosing power. If the alternator is not capable of providing much in the way of increased amperage output, it would just mean that a flat battery that is larger, will take longer to become fully charged.

 

What is not acceptable is if a larger battery has been removed, that was correctly coded to the system, but the coding is not changed to reflect the smaller battery, the charging profile might be too aggressive for the smaller battery and cause it to overheat and shorten its life.   

6R0915105B looks to match a 096 battery. Back to Halfords for you I'm afraid 🙄

 

I can't see any issue with replacing a 69Ah battery with a 75Ah either so I've no idea what the previous chap means by 'your car can't handle it'. Just make sure it's correctly coded for the larger capacity.

22 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

Ohms Law...

The internal resistance of the battery will almost certainly be lower with a larger battery so more current is likely to flow, but not to a degree that would be any problem to anything, in my opinion.

 

On an earlier car I added a 2nd battery, placing it in the boot and running heavy-duty battery leads through the inside of the car in the door sills and connected in parallel with the battery in the engine compartment to cope with freezing nights.  This was because I was working on the buses on the early shift I had to get the buses started and warmed up so that the drivers and conductors arrived, they had nice warm buses to take out and so the passengers could ride in comfort. That meant on freezing days I had plenty of power to crank the engine until it fired into life. I sold the car a few years later, still with the 2 batteries fitted, and I had zero problems, and that is essential exactly the same as fitting a larger capacity battery.

45 minutes ago, automass said:

Halfords guy said my car can not handle 75ah battery.

Halfords guy was speaking out of ignorance, your car can easily handle a 75Ah battery.

 

I fitted a 75Ah 096 AGM battery to my previous 1.4 Octavia with no problems, and have done even larger battery changes on a previous Citroen C1 (almost double the Ah battery from a petrol spec to a cold climate diesel spec).

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by PetrolDave

9 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The internal resistance of the battery will almost certainly be lower with a larger battery so more current is likely to flow, but not to a degree that would be any problem to anything, in my opinion.

 

The internal resistance only comes into play when and if extra external loading is applied, but if being used on a standard car with nothing extra has been added, then the internal resistance means nothing. In the case of a circuit that was taking X current before the bigger battery is installed, the same circuit will still take X amount of current and that can demonstrated using a test meter set to amps and connected in series with the circuit. That lower internal resistance is partly the reason why the battery has extra capacity.

In fact maybe an easier way to understand is if you think about standard batteries like AAA and AA batteries, both of them have a voltage rating 1.5V, but connected the same fixed load, the AAA will die long before the AA would.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher