3 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

The internal resistance only comes into play when and if extra external loading is applied, but if being used on a standard car with nothing extra has been added, then the internal resistance means nothing

Wrong.

25 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Wrong.

Sorry but it isn't, what ever the internal resistance is, does not have any effect on the outside circuits, Ohms law states that current flow from the battery to the load is determined by A the voltage and B the resistance, so a battery with a voltage of 12V and a side light bulb which (pre LED) was 6W and had a resistance of 2 ohms.  Current= V/R so 12/2 = 0.5A (I=amps)and watts is simply V x I so that is 12V x 0.5A = 6watts. So nothing externally changes without either the voltage changing or the resistance changing and nothing has changed other than you have effectively swapped the AAA battery for a AA battery, same voltage etc.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

1 hour ago, automass said:

It was strange fault! As i said during start-stop dash cam didn't work and mobile used to reconnect for charging every time i had stop and starts..

 

The above still makes zero sense, they were more than likely being temporarily starved of voltage due to a bad connection and as the start takes great power from the battery and causes a volt drop to happen and that voltage drop was enough that bad connection could not accept as much power as it needed until the starter switched and the voltage drop was thus removed.

 

Think of the voltage as being water pressure, if you have a hosepipe connected to a tap and turned on, water will flow, now place your foot on the pipe lightly (this is your bad connection) and get someone else turn on the taps in the kitchen full on, you notice that water flow from the hosepipe has been greatly reduced, turn the kitchen taps off and the hosepipe flow is restored. Remove your foot from the hosepipe and repeat the test and you will see the water is better from the hosepipe. Clearly a shorter hosepipe is better for this test.

 

The point is that your foot was adding resistance to the water flow, remove the resistance (your foot) and the water flow is better. A long hosepipe will also add resistance, and water flow is less with a long hose than it is with a short one.

 

See the attached picture for clarity Volts = water pressure, Current = water flow and resistance is your foot on the hosepipe. So when your stop-start kicks in and the engine starts, there is not enough flow to the charger to keep your plugins working, until the starter stops, the flow is restored, and your plugins start to work.

 

 

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

1 hour ago, Graham Butcher said:

 

Thanks Graham for explaining everything nicely. But there is no problem with the car. Definitely something was messing with the battery or battery itself was bad batch. I found that my USB was faulty, so It was easy for me to think  that  USB charger was the culprit.

1 minute ago, automass said:

Thanks Graham for explaining everything nicely. But there is no problem with the car. Definitely something was messing with the battery or battery itself was bad batch. I found that my USB was faulty, so It was easy for me to think  that  USB charger was the culprit.

Sorry but you keep saying this, how do you know it was faulty, did your dashcam and phone work, yes or no? I could accept the charger was to blame if you can give me something that is logical, but that has not happened here. You are likely to spend money buying new ones, only to discover that I was right all the time, so what is it that makes you sure that they are faulty, and my explanation is wrong?

It was charging the phone and dash cam previously..since when it wasn't charging the dash cam during start-stop (i already explained about this and you also commented on it). i didn't notice. As car battery was playing up, i noticed this unusual behaviour. I would have thought that dash cam battery would have been faulty. But  I am using different USB charger, it's working smoothly with everything. No disconnect/reconnect happening with it. I kept the Dash cam connected and i can see green led in the dash cam..so it proves other USB charger had problems in it.

8 minutes ago, automass said:

It was charging the phone and dash cam previously..since when it wasn't charging the dash cam during start-stop (i already explained about this and you also commented on it). i didn't notice. As car battery was playing up, i noticed this unusual behaviour. I would have thought that dash cam battery would have been faulty. But  I am using different USB charger, it's working smoothly with everything. No disconnect/reconnect happening with it. I kept the Dash cam connected and i can see green led in the dash cam..so it proves other USB charger had problems in it.

When you're quite sure that this problem has been solved and everything is as it should be, plug the old USB charger in. If it is faulty as you say, then as soon as stop start kicks in the old fault should arise.

37 minutes ago, ords said:

When you're quite sure that this problem has been solved and everything is as it should be, plug the old USB charger in. If it is faulty as you say, then as soon as stop start kicks in the old fault should arise.

what did you mean by old fault! I had a problem with battery being drained out since one and half week after 1yr and 4mns of purchasing a 75ah battery. Until that time battery was working fine. Did you mean i should try using old USB charger to see if it drains this new battery out. I doubt it will not straightaway. I already gave this USB charger a good clean and tried to see if problems with it is gone or not. but no, problem is still there. So what happens is: I have my mobile charger cable connected in 2.4A port and also dash cam cable connected in another 2.4A port in this triple USB charger (i uploaded pic in on of my previous comments). Both mobile and dash cam are charging as my 12v has always power in it. As I am starting the car, car got a little shaking and mobile get reconnecting with charger(I hear a sound in this point) and dash cam goes off. if i manually powered on the dash cam. same thing will happen when car will stop and starts, i mean mobile will get connection again with audible sound and dash cam will go powered off and i can see a little led light on.

With new USB charger, this doesn't happen. it works smoothly ..there is no power cut and reconnection.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by automass

18 minutes ago, ords said:

When you're quite sure that this problem has been solved and everything is as it should be, plug the old USB charger in. If it is faulty as you say, then as soon as stop start kicks in the old fault should arise.

Logically it still makes no sense, as in the first instance it was the dashcam switching off and then coming back on again. Also a dashcam should have some storage device in it to keep the time and dates and also the user setup options retained, even if the dashcam is not being powered all the time (bad thing to do anyway). What use is a dash cam that cannot remember the time, and date to validate any footage of an accident that you might be involved in.

 

My own dashcam has that and when power is removed the internal circuit detects that and starts a timer after X seconds will switch off, unless power is once again restored, and then it stays on and does not switch off. When it switches, it also makes a dinging noise to let me know it is switching off.

 

If the USB charger was getting very hot to the touch, then again I'd be happy to accept that it was consuming far too much power and so was faulty, but none of this seems is happening so what I think may be happening is that the charger originally had a small electrolytic capacitor connected across its input to allow any small minor hiccups in the supply such as a momentary voltdrop and because the OP has not been pulling out the charger from the 12V socket, it has remained powered up and as such the capacitor has now suffered from the excessive heat that builds up in a car during summer months the electrolyte in the capacitor has dried up and can no longer store any power. Hence why the new charger with a new capacitor in it does not disconnect when the start kicks in. 

 

If this is the actual failure mode of the charger, the OP was lucky, sometimes they can just become a resistor and keep drawing more power than the chargers should do, another reason why such devices should never be left plugged to a live feed.

 

There is somewhere on this forum a thread about dashcams and when they are required to be left on, there is a special kit that houses a small rechargeable battery that charges when the car is being driven and has switch on it to switch from normal mode to the unattended mode in which mode it is fed from the small battery and does not then drain the car battery.

17 minutes ago, automass said:

 dash cam will go powered off and i can see a little led light on.

With new USB charger, this doesn't happen. it works smoothly ..there is no power cut and reconnection.

Normally the red light on a dashcam means that it has now entered into the recording mode, the green light shows power has been applied and it is now waking up from its sleep mode. I think if you refer to the user manual for it, that it will confirm this to be the case. Every dashcam I have ever had, and I've had a few, has used this system. When you power it up, it has to go through a POST system much like your phone, computer etc does before it is fully operational and the LED changes colour to show its state of readiness. Remove the power and the LED will go out completely, it will not change to red like you seem to suggest. You are lulling yourself into a false sense of security, don't believe me, well fine, but time will tell you otherwise I'm afraid and history will be repeating itself all over again..

3 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Wrong.

 

Please Lord, protect us from more lectures on Ohms law 😒

43 minutes ago, automass said:

what did you mean by old fault! I had a problem with battery being drained out since one and half week after 1yr and 4mns of purchasing a 75ah battery. Until that time battery was working fine. Did you mean i should try using old USB charger to see if it drains this new battery out. I doubt it will not straightaway. I already gave this USB charger a good clean and tried to see if problems with it is gone or not. but no, problem is still there. So what happens is: I have my mobile charger cable connected in 2.4A port and also dash cam cable connected in another 2.4A port in this triple USB charger (i uploaded pic in on of my previous comments). Both mobile and dash cam are charging as my 12v has always power in it. As I am starting the car, car got a little shaking and mobile get reconnecting with charger(I hear a sound in this point) and dash cam goes off. if i manually powered on the dash cam. same thing will happen when car will stop and starts, i mean mobile will get connection again with audible sound and dash cam will go powered off and i can see a little led light on.

With new USB charger, this doesn't happen. it works smoothly ..there is no power cut and reconnection.

The old fault was that the cam and phone would power down when stop start was activated. Now with the new USB charger this doesn't happen. Try connecting the old USB charger and see if they power down when stop start is activated.

4 hours ago, Graham Butcher said:

Sorry but it isn't, what ever the internal resistance is, does not have any effect on the outside circuits

But it does, the more current the external voltage tries to draw the lower the battery voltage will be due to the battery internal resistance.

 

Simple (very exaggerated) example: battry no-load voltage=12V, battery internal resistance=1 ohm, load resistance=2 ohms.

 

Total resistance=3 ohms therefore current=4A (NOT the 6A which would be expected from 12V and 2ohms load) AND the battery terminal voltage won't be 12V it will be 8V due to the voltage drop of the internal resistance.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by PetrolDave

3 hours ago, PetrolDave said:

But it does, the more current the external voltage tries to draw the lower the battery voltage will be due to the battery internal resistance.

 

Simple (very exaggerated) example: battry no-load voltage=12V, battery internal resistance=1 ohm, load resistance=2 ohms.

 

Total resistance=3 ohms therefore current=4A (NOT the 6A which would be expected from 12V and 2ohms load) AND the battery terminal voltage won't be 12V it will be 8V due to the voltage drop of the internal resistance.

What you described is for a low capacity or a battery that has already suffered internal damage and degradation and is the very reason batteries will eventually pop their clogs and need replacing. We were actually discussing replacing a new small battery with a new larger capacity one, in which case the internal resistance when new is as @Breezy_Pete correctly stated is lower. And the only time that is going to be noticeable is if there was a dead short, or a higher demand placed on it, the battery would be able to sustain a higher current flow before the volts start to drop. A low capacity or old dying battery with a higher resistance internally would have the opposite effect as that resistance would then be limiting the current flow and the terminal voltage drop rapidly.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

Come back NTA16 please! Someone is squatting in your shoes 😄

9 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Come back NTA16 please! Someone is squatting in your shoes 😄

Someone who knows what he is talking about.😉 I have missed all that talk about battery maintainers, though.

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

Hey @langers2k, why my High Beam Assistance is showing not enabled. 

I have enabled it through app in obdeleven. It is always activated unless someone put the headlight in off position. Then i have to re-enable it. Can I toggle this option to enable? What effect will it have, just wondering if you know about it. 

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by automass
N.B: why am i getting two faults in D6 and D7 regarding high temperature. They can not be even deleted.

16 minutes ago, automass said:

Hey @langers2k, why my High Beam Assistance is showing not enabled.

 

Because it's not enabled. Nor was it in the original lcode you posted in this thread.

 

 

Assuming it's correctly coded in the other modules, try setting 4B to:

000000070100046600003D41010000000000000000000000000000000000

 

The change is highlighted and is in byte 11 if it helps.

 

19 minutes ago, automass said:

N.B: why am i getting two faults in D6 and D7 regarding high temperature. They can not be even deleted.

 

No idea. As it can't be deleted that would suggest some kind of fault is still present. Nothing in 4B should cause the overheat error although it's possible the changes we've made have stopped the errors being hidden. This is all somewhat of a guessing game given I have no idea what has been to this car previously to get it in this state.

 

You really need to figure out how to create and post adaption maps. I'd really like to see them for both 09 and 4B.

 

If you know anyone with VCDS, an adaptation map from that would be even better as it's much easier for me to work with. For context, 4B isn't too bad at just over 100 channels but 09 is much less fun to translate with over 2000.

 

What is Adaption map? Where can i find 4b?

 

Following is the scan results of 09

 

09 Central Electrics

    System description: BCM MQBAB M+
    Software number: 5Q0937084CP
    Software version: 0253
    Hardware number: 5Q0937084CF
    Hardware version: H36
    Serial number: 01001723702021
    ODX name: EV_BCMMQB
    ODX version: 018001
    Long coding: 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

    Subsystems: 
        System description: WWS371 170628
        Software version: 0915
        Hardware version: 051
        Serial number: 887253F0401717901087
        Long coding: 164DDD

        System description: RLHS         
        Software version: 0105
        Hardware version: 047
        Serial number: S9Y17M08D31H21M34S36
        Long coding: 00885D

        System description: Sensor, DWA  
        Software version: 0316
        Hardware version: 005
        Serial number: 000000000ZY171431WXQ

        System description: Sirene, DWA  
        Software version: 0314
        Hardware version: 005
        Serial number: 00002856223971443259

    Trouble codes: 
        No trouble codes found

 

 

4 minutes ago, automass said:

What is Adaption map? Where can i find 4b?

 

OBDeleven calls them backups and you need to select adaptions then save. Some how it is then possible to get that info out of OBDeleven as others have previously.

 

4B is the multifunction module you've been recoding...

I can see module 4b and 19 but exactly what info do you need. I did try to perform back up and saw it was done 100% but it didn't give me any option to open up anything.

N.B: if i go history I can see all the changements which were made. 

Edited 5 September, 20232 yr by automass
Fault is deletable. I have managed to delete and they are not appearing any more.

@langers2k this is the some part of the back ups from module 09. it's huge, total 145 pages. Did you mean this by adaption maps? (Problem is sorted, temperature of the light was too much i guess and thats why probably those fault codes appeared, i'll keep scanning to see if they come back, meanwhile you can ask what other information you need)

 

OBDeleven vehicle history log

Date: 2023-09-05 23:12

    VIN: TMBBC7NE9J0155483
    Car: Skoda Octavia
    Year: 2018
    Body type: Estate
    Engine: CZDA
    Mileage: 168773 KM

---------------------------------------------------------------
Backup
    Control unit: 09 Central Electrics
    System description: BCM MQBAB M+
    Software number: 5Q0937084CP
    Software version: 0253
    Hardware number: 5Q0937084CF
    Hardware version: H36
    Serial number: 01001723702021
    ODX name: EV_BCMMQB
    ODX version: 018001
    Backup name:
    Adaptations:
        Leuchte 0 BLK VL B36:
            Lasttyp 0:
                not active
            Lampendefektbit Position 0:
                0
            Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 0:
                0
            Lichtfunktion A 0:
                nicht aktiv
            Lichtfunktion B 0:
                nicht aktiv
            Dimmwert AB 0:
                0
            Lichtansteuerung HD AB 0:
                always
            Lichtfunktion C 0:
                nicht aktiv
            Lichtfunktion D 0:
                nicht aktiv
            Dimmwert CD 0:
                0
            Dimming Direction CD 0:
                maximize
            Lichtfunktion E 0:
                nicht aktiv
            Lichtfunktion F 0:
                nicht aktiv
            Dimmwert EF 0:
                0
            Dimming Direction EF 0:
                maximize
            Lichtfunktion H 0:
                nicht aktiv
            Dimmwert GH 0:
                0
            Dimming Direction GH 0:
                maximize
            Lichtfunktion G 0:

Glad to hear the faults have gone for now.

 

I expect everything I need is probably inside the history log. Can you add it as an attachment? 

1 hour ago, langers2k said:

Glad to hear the faults have gone for now.

 

I expect everything I need is probably inside the history log. Can you add it as an attachment? 

I am uploading these history for you @langers2k. Let me know if they look good to you or not.

 

history.txt history-1.txt

@automass Just out of interest, I decided to further investigate the dashcam angle as the intended market for this brand is America and I had a feeling that their standards might differ from us Europeans, and it seems that my hunch was correct.

 

I downloaded the manual for one of their dashcams, and they seem to have 2 LEDS, 1 to show battery is charging and the other to show camera is running i.e, recording video. I have highlighted this in yellow for quick reference.

 

The camera is designed primarly for cars that don't have the 12v sockets connected 24/7, so that when the engine is switched off, so is the camera. (Highlighted in green)

 

For use in cars that that follow the normal convention, i.e, those where the 12v socket is always live (as the Americans call it HOT), they warn you about leaving the camera plugged will drain the car battery and the risk that you will not be able to start the engine. To overcome this if you do not want to keep pulling the power adaptor out when switching the engine off, you will either need to purchase a hardwire kit, OR reconnect the 12v socket to one of the cars fuses that is only live when the ignition is on (easier said than done, hardwire kit is easier to do). Highlighted in red.

 

If you want 24/7 operation, this has to be to set it up in the camera setup menu which puts it into sleep mode and only comes on when an impact is felt, records for 30 seconds and goes back to sleep again. If this mode is required, it needs to have a supply connected 24/7 and this mode dramatically reduces the drain on the battery as it only draws full power in the event of an impact waking it from sleep. This mode however is no good for normal driving mode as it cause the camera to wake up and return to sleep after every pothole etc. In the event of an accident, only record the aftermath, which for insurance purposes does nothing to prove who caused the accident, so IMHO is useless. Highlighted in blue

 

azdome dashcam.pdf