Have i bought the wrong one, 

would this one work? https://www.autodoc.se/vika/13159301#termokontakt-kylarflakt

 

I have already bought this one lol... 

https://www.autodoc.se/ridex/15781333?_gl=1*5uayzp*_up*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh7K1BhCZARIsAKOrVqHAXe-I_mXaD0qZLT5qfCS83ueYApWJ5tKUx9ba1ZQ0d6b3cpx2jBwaApZkEALw_wcB

Since i thought my car had AC (hahahaha) 

i bought the last one... 

No doubt you have destroyed the head gasket with constant overheating 

11 minutes ago, Blue8793841 said:

No doubt you have destroyed the head gasket with constant overheating 

but i haven’t been driving it while overheating 😅 it got hot once. Turned off.

went home, and then i have tried 2-3 more times but i have only let it go up to like a 100c and then stopped. 

Its not leaking oil or coolant now either and still seems to run fine? So should be fine right?

You can get away with it with them older steel engines.

Fan must be broken or the signal to the fan is bad 

1 minute ago, Blue8793841 said:

You can get away with it with them older steel engines.

Hopefully haha i wont be able to open the engine up until im home which will be many months from now.. 

Just now, Blue8793841 said:

Fan must be broken or the signal to the fan is bad 

It must be the thermostat switch no? I have literally checked or changed everything else 😂

The signal from the ECU to the fan is not working or you have bad wire to the fan. You have changed the switch and thermostat yes? So must be wiring or fan or ecu. Have you bled the coolant system properly?

5 minutes ago, Blue8793841 said:

The signal from the ECU to the fan is not working or you have bad wire to the fan. You have changed the switch and thermostat yes? So must be wiring or fan or ecu. Have you bled the coolant system properly?

I have bleed the system fully and rinsed many times. 
 

i think its the switch tho. I put it in boiling water and tried to see if it connected but it didnt. But it could also be the ECU you say?? 

6 minutes ago, Blue8793841 said:

The signal from the ECU to the fan is not working or you have bad wire to the fan. You have changed the switch and thermostat yes? So must be wiring or fan or ecu. Have you bled the coolant system properly?

The fan is working, i trued directly connected it and then it works

You mean the thermostat? Have you put it in the correct way?

ETA: One-finger typed so I missed latest posts.

 

Other Felicia owners, that have already posted, can help you with wiring diagrams and info on switches and/or you can look at other treads on this forums that cover such subjects.

 

As Thefeliciahacker suggested earlier it may still be worth checking the head gasket as signs of failure are not always immediately obvious and until you know for sure trusting gauges on an old car is not a good idea - but we are only only guessing about a car over the internet (though the photos have already helped).  The Owner's Manual is very useful to have and if you have it read it and refer to it when required (it would tell you about a/c and heating/ventilation too).  For repairs (allowing for errors and omissions which you get in all publications, including from the vehicle manufacturer, and databases and websites) is there not a Haynes (workshop) Manual available for you, paper printed or downloadable. 

 

I do not like the look of the two wires to one (perhaps I am wrong as I do not know the wiring on these cars) but even if I am old and forgetful I have seen enough suspect looking wiring to be suspicious, you can now perhaps see why I put about checking the wiring and the quality of some peoples work.

 

It is also why I put to do the servicing and cleaning, with fresh new coolant and whatever else needs cleaning, fixing, repairing or replacing on the the cooling, heating system, including the engine, it gives you more margin for when things get warmer, hot or overheating, longer running, more chance to get home with less issues.  Same for the other engine cooling (other than air) the engine oil, fresh clean engine oil and filter will give more margin and better oil will give even more margin.  Same for brakes not dragging or engine labouring or not timed correctly or ignition parts that look OK but are well past their best and may even be faulty, brakes that don't drag in any way, clear exhaust.  One thing affects another and can help or hinder.

 

The car looks a very good basis but it is possible for older people with old cars to get poor work done to them and their cars, this may or may not include your car and may only be very minor but until you fully know the car by using it all year round for at least 12 months you want to check everything that was and is done on it, including by yourself or others (even your dad, we all make mistakes, I've repeated many).

 

I am not saying any are but also never rule out a faulty new part - always test before fitting where possible.

 

What temperature(s) is the thermostat supposed to (start) opening at and switch to operate?

 

The yellow and the orange (which are alone in the middle) are for the radiator switch.

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

ETA: One-finger typed so I missed latest posts.

 

Other Felicia owners, that have already posted, can help you with wiring diagrams and info on switches and/or you can look at other treads on this forums that cover such subjects.

 

As Thefeliciahacker suggested earlier it may still be worth checking the head gasket as signs of failure are not always immediately obvious and until you know for sure trusting gauges on an old car is not a good idea - but we are only only guessing about a car over the internet (though the photos have already helped).  The Owner's Manual is very useful to have and if you have it read it and refer to it when required (it would tell you about a/c and heating/ventilation too).  For repairs (allowing for errors and omissions which you get in all publications, including from the vehicle manufacturer, and databases and websites) is there not a Haynes (workshop) Manual available for you, paper printed or downloadable. 

 

I do not like the look of the two wires to one (perhaps I am wrong as I do not know the wiring on these cars) but even if I am old and forgetful I have seen enough suspect looking wiring to be suspicious, you can now perhaps see why I put about checking the wiring and the quality of some peoples work.

 

It is also why I put to do the servicing and cleaning, with fresh new coolant and whatever else needs cleaning, fixing, repairing or replacing on the the cooling, heating system, including the engine, it gives you more margin for when things get warmer, hot or overheating, longer running, more chance to get home with less issues.  Same for the other engine cooling (other than air) the engine oil, fresh clean engine oil and filter will give more margin and better oil will give even more margin.  Same for brakes not dragging or engine labouring or not timed correctly or ignition parts that look OK but are well past their best and may even be faulty, brakes that don't drag in any way, clear exhaust.  One thing affects another and can help or hinder.

 

The car looks a very good basis but it is possible for older people with old cars to get poor work done to them and their cars, this may or may not include your car and may only be very minor but until you fully know the car by using it all year round for at least 12 months you want to check everything that was and is done on it, including by yourself or others (even your dad, we all make mistakes, I've repeated many).

 

hahah yea i 95% trust my dads work but even that is worth double checking. 
Yea i have only had the car for a month so i havent done much work on it. I might try to open up the gasket and see if it looks good when i have time. 

tbh i checked the manuel and it was very not informative when it comes to DIY information. 

But yea, i will check breaking oil, head gasket and go over the wiring. Breaks are changed, spark plugs are changed, did a solid oil and filter change,

also going to change the fuel filter, I think the cooling system works fine now, the thermostat is new, opens when it should,

 

The belst are in new condition (changed recently), the breaks are still in a fine condition too. 

So its just the fan right now i need to get working. If it doesnt work with the thermostat switch i ordered i am going to wire it to a switch but i really dont want that. 

I also think the new radio i put in is drying the batteri even when the car is turned off and the radio. My phone is still connected to its BT so i need to change the wiring and connect it through the ignition. 

woke up today and the battery was dead. 

Might as well change the battery to i guess. 

24 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

I might try to open up the gasket and see if it looks good when i have time.

That likely means tools, hours of work, and new gaskets. A coolant sniff test will give you the same answers about the condition of the gasket faster, cheaper and with less work.

 

There are several other people think there is an issue with your radio wiring too.

 

Since no-one else has suggested this, I'm going to suggest downloading manuals and wiring diagrams from Erwin. Cost about 7 Euro and an hour of your time.

21 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

That likely means tools, hours of work, and new gaskets. A coolant sniff test will give you the same answers about the condition of the gasket faster, cheaper and with less work.

 

There are several other people think there is an issue with your radio wiring too.

 

Since no-one else has suggested this, I'm going to suggest downloading manuals and wiring diagrams from Erwin. Cost about 7 Euro and an hour of your time.

Oh dang, thank you so much, def worth 7 euro! 

 

Yea okey ill smell. i dont think there is enything wrong because the coolant is clean and im not losing oil and the engine runs great on normal temp. 

What do i smell for? like an oil smell?

1 hour ago, Felicia98noob said:

I might try to open up the gasket and see if it looks good when i have time. 

As said that is a bit of work and may be totally unnecessary.

 

52 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

Yea okey ill smell.

The sniff test is not a good name or description for non-UK and what actually happens.  You can get small test kits off eBay (and other places that test for combustion gases in the coolant, either litmus test strips or liquid test kits, just as one example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123735248113  You can also read up on symptoms but these are not always that obvious particularly on an engine that might not be fully set up correctly - but your engine might be set up reasonably or well, we do not know.  Best is to get your dad to explain and show you how to do cylinder compression tests on the engine.

 

With an old (or any car really) car you should always have all electrics (other than safety ones) switched off if the engine is not running and not turn them on until the engine is running.  A good routine to get into is to turn all electric (except safety) items off before you turn the engine off and certainly before you get out of the car.  When you get into the car and seated, turned the ignition on, but do not start the engine, check all the warning lights are on that should be and those that go out do go out, whilst you are doing this you can put your seat belt on.  Once you have your seat belt on check the handbrake is on and car out of gear and start the engine.  When you have started the engine do not turn any electrics item on yet (especially radio and phone) but instead listen, look. smell, feel, the engine and car for anything unusual, if all OK drive off.

 

I am not sure about your present wiring, if there was a three pin fan switch fitted before and you have replaced it with another three pin switch assuming the correct part was fitted, when it was not, that is one issue that might explain the joined wiring but if it was a two pin before it is more of a mystery to me.  The radio and phone added items are another area I would check.

 

You may not need to get a new battery.  If you check the existing battery has electrolyte (acid) "water" covering fully all six cell plates and the plates do not look too damaged or buckled that battery, top up if required before recharging, older cars give more chance for the battery to be recharged to give more useful life (subject to the wiring being correct and not draining the battery unnecessarily.  You best to use a suitable charger (maintainer) with low not high amperage or setting, 2-amps, 3-amps, 4-amps, certainly  not more than 6-amps for your 62 Ah battery.  The lower and slower the recharge then, for want of better words and description, the deeper and longer lasting the recharge, this could take many hours, probably overnight perhaps longer depending on how low the battery is and charger amperage.  Car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts, often prematurely replaced as "distress sales" as with you now, preventative charging before they get too low will give much better and longer life.  Neglect of battery is the number one reason for breakdown call outs in the UK.

 

Some notes if you want them, some of the information varies and expands the between the links, some obviously is repeated.

• Best check your car battery now - (why?) [ summer ] - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506654-best-check-your-car-battery-now-why/#comment-5688832
• Car battery, now is the time to check it [ winter ] - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499006-car-battery-now-is-the-time-to-check-it/#comment-5598720
• flat batteries on the first working day of each year - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year

 

HTH.

 

 

 

recap what currently works and what doesnt

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

recap what currently works and what doesnt

Everything works fine except for the cooling fan. 

All cables are checked, And i am guessing its just the thermostat switch in the raditor that is wrong. (i bought one for a car with AC), have ordered a new one with only two pins. 

I put the old one in boiling water and still didnt connect. 

 

The second thing is that the radio (i am guessing) is, i dont know the english word but alaways consumes electricity. 

Even when its "fully" turned off, my phone is still connected to its bluetooth. 

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

As said that is a bit of work and may be totally unnecessary.

 

The sniff test is not a good name or description for non-UK and what actually happens.  You can get small test kits off eBay (and other places that test for combustion gases in the coolant, either litmus test strips or liquid test kits, just as one example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123735248113  You can also read up on symptoms but these are not always that obvious particularly on an engine that might not be fully set up correctly - but your engine might be set up reasonably or well, we do not know.  Best is to get your dad to explain and show you how to do cylinder compression tests on the engine.

 

With an old (or any car really) car you should always have all electrics (other than safety ones) switched off if the engine is not running and not turn them on until the engine is running.  A good routine to get into is to turn all electric (except safety) items off before you turn the engine off and certainly before you get out of the car.  When you get into the car and seated, turned the ignition on, but do not start the engine, check all the warning lights are on that should be and those that go out do go out, whilst you are doing this you can put your seat belt on.  Once you have your seat belt on check the handbrake is on and car out of gear and start the engine.  When you have started the engine do not turn any electrics item on yet (especially radio and phone) but instead listen, look. smell, feel, the engine and car for anything unusual, if all OK drive off.

 

I am not sure about your present wiring, if there was a three pin fan switch fitted before and you have replaced it with another three pin switch assuming the correct part was fitted, when it was not, that is one issue that might explain the joined wiring but if it was a two pin before it is more of a mystery to me.  The radio and phone added items are another area I would check.

 

You may not need to get a new battery.  If you check the existing battery has electrolyte (acid) "water" covering fully all six cell plates and the plates do not look too damaged or buckled that battery, top up if required before recharging, older cars give more chance for the battery to be recharged to give more useful life (subject to the wiring being correct and not draining the battery unnecessarily.  You best to use a suitable charger (maintainer) with low not high amperage or setting, 2-amps, 3-amps, 4-amps, certainly  not more than 6-amps for your 62 Ah battery.  The lower and slower the recharge then, for want of better words and description, the deeper and longer lasting the recharge, this could take many hours, probably overnight perhaps longer depending on how low the battery is and charger amperage.  Car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts, often prematurely replaced as "distress sales" as with you now, preventative charging before they get too low will give much better and longer life.  Neglect of battery is the number one reason for breakdown call outs in the UK.

 

Some notes if you want them, some of the information varies and expands the between the links, some obviously is repeated.

• Best check your car battery now - (why?) [ summer ] - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506654-best-check-your-car-battery-now-why/#comment-5688832
• Car battery, now is the time to check it [ winter ] - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499006-car-battery-now-is-the-time-to-check-it/#comment-5598720
• flat batteries on the first working day of each year - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year

 

HTH.

 

 

 

aaah okey i see, i think my father has one of those. 

 

About the battery, i have a charger so ill just try that overnight then!

 

Thanks mate!!

Edited 3 August, 20241 yr by Felicia98noob

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

About the battery, i have a charger so ill just try that overnight then!

Get it fully charged not partly charged or nearly full and charge it low and slow.

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

The second thing is that the radio (i am guessing) is, i dont know the english word but alaways consumes electricity. 

Even when its "fully" turned off, my phone is still connected to its bluetooth. 

You will have to find the User and wiring instructions for that radio.  It will may have two live inputs, one switched with radio part and other(s)? permanent live hopefully with its own fused supply but there are other ways to wire up good, not-so-good and bad.   This and the phone wiring and connection set ned to be correct or it might drain your battery again.  Do you have a multimeter with you?

 

It is good that the car looks so good in the photos and no disrespect meant to you but how do you know everything is working fine rather than just working, have you longer term experience of  cars and older cars, have you driven other Felicias even if not a 1.6.  Shiny show cars look very good but can be poor runners and not run anywhere as good as they could or should, whereas as very scruffy cars can be very very sound and run very well.  I have seen and travelled with lots of very shiny "classic" (over-priced, over-valued old) cars, some very expensive, and they have been poor runners because their owners don't expect enough of them as the cars are not driven, used, serviced and maintained enough for the owners to know how well they should or could go.

 

Your car might have everything working fine, except the fan, but that would surprise me a little given its extreme low mileage, but I could be wrong.

 

For the fan, as D.FYLAKTOS put earlier you could bridge the switch supply to the fan, or run a direct supply from the battery to test the fan works.

   

I could not get enough zoom on the image to see well enough but am I the only one to think the connecting set up below does not look factory standard.  The red(?) (thinner?) wire, from the two-way joint off the orange wire and whole wire set up and presentation looks DIY to me, am I wrong?

 

6 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I could not get enough zoom on the image to see well enough but am I the only one to think the connecting set up below does not look factory standard.  The red(?) (thinner?) wire, from the two-way joint off the orange wire and whole wire set up and presentation looks DIY to me, am I wrong?

 

Looks like a bodge to me, I wonder if someone had previously wired-in an override switch to that loom.

9 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Looks like a bodge to me, I wonder if someone had previously wired-in an override switch to that loom.

Then you would wonder why you would want or need an override switch if the car is running fine and cooling fine, I know some like to have a dog and bark themselves but for an owner that has had the car from new and barely drives it perhaps before selling, perhaps it was just belt and braces but seems a bit odd to me other than bodge.

 

Or could it be extra wire for extra pin if the three-pin switch was previously fitted instead of two pin switch, how is the two speed wired.

 

ETA: some people have their own logic to their wiring which can be "unconventional".

 

 

Edited 3 August, 20241 yr by nta16
ETA

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

or run a direct supply from the battery to test the fan works.

 

+ 1 👍