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No will do that tomorrow. Bit annars to get to ubder the battery

I've had two windscreens replaced, one only lasted 6 weeks before some doughnut in a mini threw up a load of gravel and did two chips and as it's a heated screen it had to be replaced again, this time they put a decent one in. Beware some windscreen replacement companies replace the OEM screen with a thinner & cheaper one, this one is Saint-Gobain and is fine!

Have you checked the power steering fluid level?

two photes of the driveshaft from above and the stearing gasquet. Its totally dry on driveshaft and above the stearing gasquet. Also the stearing connections are dry. This is opposite side of gearbox. Gearbox side is dry. Third photo is aver the linkarm. Some newly sprayed bodypaint but you can see a section that is oilwet. So the oil is def hitting that area but i cant figure out how. It must be rinning from, most likely, above. I will be giving it to a workshop for fault search. Shall keep you posted :) Thanks help so far.

The driveshaft that's in his second photo looks completely dry to me.

195/55R15 85V LAUFENN S FIT EQ+ are a sub company of Hankook so should be decent tyres. My sons mk1 fabia is basic but also so far fairly trouble free and relatively cheap to fix. These days the newer the car the more expensive it becomes to repair so I would look after the one you have. Rust is the killer everything else can be sorted Alasdair

I used to own the Superb Hatchback KY69UNB which had been faultless for my 4 years of ownership. Unfortunately on 10th April I was involved in a small accident which resulted in the offside front bumper, headlight and corner bonnet being damaged. The rest of the car was in excellent condition with 37.000 miles on the clock. I was amazed when the insurance company deemed it uneconomical to repair and offered me a payment which I accepted. I now see that the car is back on the road. So if you are the new owner of the car and would like all its full service and maintenance records from new message me and I will forward on. I will keep the offer open for another 4 weeks before I dispose of them if I have had no contact

Could be engine is burning oil and its gearbox oil as warrior said. The only other thing (long shot I know) would be brake/clutch fluid. Maybe pop it into a friendly garage and get them to put it on their lift to see if they can track down where its coming from. Oil has a habit of appearing a good bit away from where it started.

Hi , I've a 2025 Kamiq 1.0 SE Edition and when I use my RAZR phone on the cars Bluetooth everyone says the audio is very loud and distorted at their end. Use another phone ( Samsung ) and it's fine , use that same RAZR phone in wife's Rapid and it's fine . Question where do I go from here ? The above scenario is contradictory the phones fine elsewhere and the cars fine with another phone , any ideas anyone because I'm pulling my hair out over it .

Discussed multiple times. Stay away from theme

I just had a look and didn't really have any great ideas. Please come back to tell us if you ever figure it out.

The little dent and the tiiiiiny rust spots should be totally ignored, not worth a moment's effort; neither will ever threaten the future of the car. Alasdair is spot on with wheel balance checking, it may have shed a weight. Also about the door loom wiring.

PCV i assume is next to the oil lid on top of the engine with a plasic hose to the intake manifold? Its all dry and no oil there. Timing cover looks super dry. Should see oil coming from it. Its so strange how the engine and everything above the right side link arm/stearing rod is dry. It basically start down at the arm just under the stearing rod. At first i thought it was stearing fluid but its not. Connection and the gasquet to the stearing rod is dry. And i guess the stearing fluid would be empty by now and engine oil going down as i drive. Odd problem :)

I would fix the rust ASAP before it gets worse even if its a touch up kit. Sons MK1 has a few dents but its an old car and as long as theres no rust he lives with it. If you mean the bite point on clutch being high it may mean its getting worn but if its not slipping I wouldnt bother until it starts. If you mean the height of pedal its probably normal as its hydraulic clutch. The vibrations may be wheels out of balance but as there new tyres I assume they were balanced so it could be slightly worn bushes. Sons swing arm bushes are past it and he gets a bit of vibration/wobble at higher speeds. I would get wheels checked for balance just in case a weight has come off. Check the wiring at the door pillar for breaks which may explain the window problem. Alasdair

Fairly straight forward as long as there not rusted in. On the octavia theres one allen key/torx screw(cant remember off hand) that holds them in place (make sure you clean it out so you get a good depth of grip) from memory you can just get to them behind splash guard. Soak them for a few days in penetrating oil and gently wiggle them while pulling upwards. Check condition of wiring etc before hand just in case its wiring/connector related. Alasdair

Hello everyone! I bought my first car a few months ago, and I have been loving it! The car starts and it doesn't beep at me and there isn't any systems I want to turn off every time I start the engine and the controls are all physical buttons and its a small car but it doesn't feel small when when inside. Originally I planned to keep the car in great condition and keep it for as long as possible, especially with the current trend of crossovers and SUVs meaning bigger and bigger cars are on the road and I'm not interested in in those massive ugly things. I could go on with how much i like this model of car, but I do have some minor issues with the car and I am not sure if they are worth fixing to keep this car on the road for a long time, or to leave it alone and save that money I would spend to repair it to buy a better condition car in a few years time? The issues I have with the car are as follows; Dent on the roof rail and on roof panel, quoted about £500-£600 to fix it Occasional interior rattle on the passenger side(left hand side), not yet found the cause of it Driver side electric window works, but the sync is lost every time I shut the car down, so i have to hold it down to open the window fully Clutch feels high compared to the car I learned to drive in (crossover Ford Puma) but it doesn't feel like its slipping Some tiny paint chips on the bonnet with sone rust on it Ive had the car checked by a VAG specialist garage to diagnose the vibrations (as there was some at about 70mph), and couldn't find anything wrong, they say the car is in good condition for its age but possible cause would be the "cheap tyres" having thin walls I put on it (I didn't think they were, but they are 195/55R15 85V LAUFENN S FIT EQ+ if anyone is more knowledgable about tyres) and to "just enjoy it" What are your opinions? Would you fix this car up to keep it for a long time like I originally wanted to? or would it just be a waste of money in the long run? Car also came with loads of paperwork with the service history, so much so I bought a ring binder to organise it all, I am the 3rd owner and its always passed MOT and has been serviced by garages Thanks for your time!

Thanks for the replies. Is replacing the sensors a garage job or is it straight forward?

indeed🙃

Check timing cover and also PCV. Cant think of anything else if the engine block has no signs of leaks. Have a look at the oil pressure switch in case its leaking and oil is traveling down wiring and missing engine block Alasdair

I'll have a look at my car this evening, to see if I can make some suggestions.

No i had an engine oil low light last week and I see engine oil dropping after falling up. Its totally dry on the gearbox side.

Plenty TDI,s (Millions) are on long Service / Variable / Flexible oil and filter changes and used with the annual mileage and usage to suit that and do not use excessive oil.

Could it actually be gearbox oil from the RH driveshaft seal?

Out of interest, how frequent has the oil been changed during the cars lifetime? The long life service plan with 30k kilometer oil change interval doesnt do any good for the piston oil rings in this engine. I would try a forte new generation motor flush with their instructions for an engine that hasnt been cleaned earlier: first drive the engine warm, then 2 bottles of forte motor flush in on the current oils in the engine and with a raised idle speed of 1500rpm, gear in neutral,STANDING STILL, dont move the car, let it idle for atleast 30 minutes, maybe even close to 1 hour. Then shut down the engine and change the oil, careful it will be hot, let it pour out all the way and then if you have any leftover,clean and suitable non used engine oil layin around, maybe pour few desilitres in and watch from the sump plug hole will it come out clean...just a little extra flush to get all the old oil out. Then new filter and good oil like Liqui Moly. Maybe even throw a bottle of Forte Advanced Diesel Fuel Conditioner in the fuel tank to clean the fuel system. This would be my first approach for the problem. If the piston oil rings are only gunked up due to bad maintenance they could possibly be cleaned with motor flush. They could also be seized or even broken so then the flush wouldnt help.

I agree could also be a build up of dirt/rust on sensor tip. Doubt its wiring as both seem to be giving trouble. I would change them. I used Febi ones on my octavia and they werent expensive. Had to change them due to replacing wheel bearigs and broke senors trying to remove them No problems so far. Think from memory they were around £12 each Alasdair