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I believe that the tint in a front windscreen only extends for around 4 inches from the top, not across all the glass. the tint is done by colouring the polyvinyl butyral "meat" in the glass sandwich which is extremely unlikely to degrade and migrate across the glass. No, the cratering I'm talking about is caused by impact damage of fine dust particles against relatively soft laminated glass over time. I had a toughened glass screen in my 1965 Rover P5 polished many years ago but the guy would not touch a laminated screen because they are relatively soft and he would not risk any damage. I was rather hoping that something like Rain-X might help but that made it worse......

Well, today was the second wash and a proper one. Plenty of road grime and brake dust from our recent 800 miles round trip to Southern England. Honestly, while the Veritate 19" rims are elegant, they are amongst the worst wheel design I have ever experienced for cleaning. If not the worst. My toothbrushes, did I just say that, were only marginally helpful. I threw everything at these rims: microfibre cloth, several soft brushes, five different variations of Wheel Woolies and of course the adapted toothbrushes. What a pain these rims are with their intricate design and that evil gutter running around the barrel. It makes me yearn for a 1990s plastic wheel trim which, if scuffed, cost peanuts to replace rather than £90, and a day with the alloy rim repair shop. That's progress! Thankfully this will be the last time I will need to clean these rims on the car because next Wednesday is Crystal 17" winter rims day. Hurrah. The Veritates will then get one wash and protection before being stored on the rack in our garage until next April. The car will look dowdy but washing the rims should be easier and that seems like a fair trade! If anyone has any advice then please speak up. There must be an easier way to wash and clean these rims because I cannot believe owners are prepared to spend so much time as I have today. Waiting....more in hope than expectation 😥

Welcome to the forum. Does the red indicator on the fob light when you press a button? Test the batteries and check that any protective film/sticker on the cell has been removed.

If the front radar sensor or its mounts have been damaged or displaced, specialist recalibration is required after any damage is repaired.

New member, I have Karoq 2.0 TSI Black edition on order. Hoping to use the forum resource to help me get to grips with my first Skoda.

They make a massive difference. No flash on these pics. It’s all from the lights in the boot lid plus a bit from the torch.

Yay, it does look a lot smarter. I’ve recently bought and awaiting led boot lights now to finish it off, hopefully no errors…

Are you talking about the radar in the bumper? Or the camera which is housed behind the rear view mirror? If it’s radar, then I think it’s an ADAS calibration you need. Happy to be corrected on those that definitely know more about this than me.

Hi everyone, New to the forum but I really need your help. I’m completely stuck on a Skoda Superb II 2.0 TDI (170Hk) DSG6 (manual ignition key, NO electronic steering lock/ELV) and I’m officially out of ideas. I really hope someone here can point me in the right direction. The Backstory: The car died while driving due to a failed alternator (battery drained completely). The car was driven home, parked, and the battery was disconnected. While replacing the alternator, a faulty xenon ballast was also replaced. A brand-new battery was installed. Upon reconnecting the battery terminals (there was a normal minor spark), the car's ignition went completely dead. Current Symptoms: No Terminal 15: Turning the key does absolutely nothing. The instrument cluster (dashboard) is 100% pitch black—not even the center MFD screen turns on or gives any warnings. Working Comfort Electrics: Central locking, interior lights, hazard lights, radio, and parking lights work perfectly. Manual Jumpering: If I manually jumper the Terminal 15 relay under the steering wheel (bridging pins 30 and 87), power is successfully sent to the cabin fuse box (verified 12V at dashboard fuse SC6, and steering column fuses SC2 and SC16). However, the cluster still remains completely black. Diagnostic Data (OBDeleven): When the Terminal 15 relay is manually jumpered, I can establish VCDS/OBDeleven communication with the car. BCM / Central Electrics Live Data: BCM successfully registers the physical key positions! Terminal 15 (input) and Terminal 50 (input) switch from OFF to ON when I turn the key. The Conflict: However, another live data channel shows Terminal 15 (via LIN) / Steering column switch information as "Not Installed". Fault Codes: The system is flooded with permanent communication codes that cannot be cleared: Terminal 15 implausible signal No signal/communication / Lost connection to: Instrument Cluster (J285) and Steering Column Module (J527). Network Status: Modules like the ECU, TCU, ABS, Gateway, and BCM are fully awake and communicating with the scanner, but they ALL complain about missing communication from specifically the Cluster and the Steering Column Module. What has been verified and tested so far: Fuses & Relays: Every single fuse (engine bay E-box, cabin fuse box, and the large SA-metal strip fuses in front of the engine e-box) has been continuity tested and confirmed OK and power-supplied. All "Relay 100" relays have been bench-tested and function perfectly. No pins in the relay carriers are backed out or damaged. Ignition Switch & Lock: The mechanical lock and the electrical ignition switch (D-switch) behind it have been tested and are fully operational. Steering Column Module (J527): The module's internal circuit board has been inspected and measured—it appears to be fully functional. (Note: The indicator stalk had some intermittent glitches months prior to this event, and the car occasionally threw a steering angle sensor G85 code before, but worked fine). Wiring & Grounding: Tested with a jumper cable directly from battery negative to the engine block with no change. The wiring harness near the engine/DPF/ABS is verified intact and has not been pinched or damaged during the alternator swap. B+ on the new alternator is connected correctly to the designated M8 post. LIN-bus: The LIN-bus wire from the alternator regulator is verified not shorted. The Dilemma: Since the BCM sees the key turning "ON" in live data, the hardware signal gets into the car. But the BCM refuses to ground the Terminal 15 relay automatically. Even when I bypass the relay manually, the Cluster and J527 refuse to boot up on the CAN-bus network, leaving them completely dead to the rest of the car. It feels like a digital lockout or a specific power line (Terminal 30/constant power) to just these two modules has died, but all fuses are intact. Has anyone encountered the BCM or Gateway completely dropping/disabling the LIN-bus to the steering column after a battery reconnect? Could a voltage spike during battery connection have locked the BCM logic, or am I missing a hidden fuse/fusible link somewhere? Any input or crazy ideas are highly appreciated. I am completely out of options! Thanks in advance.

But in 1000 km or 2 months extra urban level dropped about 0.2 litre. Meanwhile i remapped engine, but that did not increase coolant loss. It was on same place full one year after i bought then i replaced coolant, after few weeks, i was thinking maybe there is some air bubbles inside and it have to settle, but one year passed still same. I maku mixture about -25%C to avoid old pump leak. And around pump housing there is no any sign of coolant, fresh or dry. I saw that pump mechanism have problems with sealing and happenes slight leak on housing, between two aluminium parts on housing. It cant cause imidiattely coolant loss but anyway i am worried.

I just did the same work for the second time, But did not bolt off the ac compressor and did not take off the bumpers. I just raised the engine and took the radiator fan off. Same engine. 2h in total.

Don't worry, just teasing because of some comments above (not necessarily yours, I give it to you). 😉

Yes, on my '21 vRS I have the lights on Auto (on the lower switch), and it's just a matter of pulling back on the headlight stalk/switch to return them to normal operation

This one was purchased legitimately. I can’t speak for @Danoid s one though…

Did you mean "Great find by @danoid my dealer"? 😁

Cool White LED torch installed. Part number 3T0947417F is from a new Tiguan, multivan or T6 caravelle and is a straight replacement. It’s B E A utiful. The last yellow light now gone! Doesn’t come out great on the photos but I’m very pleased! Great find by @Danoid Before After

Back home this evening and white LED torch installed. It’s B E A utiful. The last yellow light now gone! Doesn’t come out great on the photos but I’m very pleased! Great find by @Danoid Before After

Back home this evening and white LED torch installed. It’s B E A utiful. The last yellow light now gone! Doesn’t come out great on the photos but I’m very pleased! Great find by @Danoid Before After

Nice, looks like a pretty straightforward job once you know how to get the vent out. Good to hear the cheaper replacement turned out to be decent quality too. I’ve used parts from brands like ridex before and always think it’s worth comparing options, but if the AliExpress one fits properly and works well, that’s a good result. Thanks for sharing the guide!

All the best with your project Takkis and welcome.

The radar sensor is part of the car's Front Assist system and, if fitted, Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)

I’ll pm you

Moved to Octavia MkIV forum.

As @skomaz says it's a blocked drain tube. I had the same issue with Mrs Moley's Kamiq recently. I removed the blockage with a thin piece of wire. The drain hole is in the area marked with the yellow circle.

Used to be small packages up to 2KG only after Brexit, think they send larger stuff now by DHL, I've never had any problems, never ordered anything large like a rear spoiler etc though, drop them an email see what they say.