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Unfortunately after just 3 weeks of buying this,I have had to send her back for repairs☹️ Clutch stuck to the floor 3 times while I was driving.Apparently it's a common problem with the clutch master cylinder 🤢I am so disappointed now.I put a lot of work into the purchase of this car.I look forward to peoples opinions on this and hopefully I can help others with the experience.

Very nice, I have been considering doing this too. How long did it take, approximately?

Thanks. Will check my insurance policy. Your comments about the platform tie in with what I was reading this afternoon after the second failure. David

EDIT Dq381, Wet clutch 80,000 miles DSG service. best do sooner.

When was the DSG,s last Oil & Filter change?

Do you know the part number you're seeking? I can look up via VIN for you if not. May be possible to repair, by either cutting off split/cracked bits and re-fitting with heat to soften (if it's a hard plastic section), or simply using self-amalgamating tape to form a robust, airtight covering.

Got My self a mk4 supberb. Decided to upgrade from the mk 3. Got a couple of questions for you lovely lot. Got the dsg auto box and its the 7 speed box. Does any ine know if its a wet or a dry clutch and what do skoda suggest when to change the gearbox oil. Whats the mileage or time wise to get the cambelt and water pump changed ? Its the 2 liter diesel engine if thar helps and a 24 plate.

I am having a weird issue concerning the revs being abnormally high, in 3 scenarios all within the past 1500? miles , the first is when I change the dsg from D to N when stopping. Just now I had the engine in neutral actually rev to about 1200rpm before falling down to the expected 800rpm. I had stopped the car. The rev should not rise without my foot on the accelerator. Another time last week was when the car had been stopped a little while, same situation with foot on brake the engine revs went up in neutral. And 3rdly on one or two occasions when putting car from N to D, the rev immediately goes higher than expected, like 1100rpm before engaging. Car has no light yet or warning on dash Skoda superb mk2 CFGB engine 388000 miles, clutch pack / DMF from factory both changed at 283000

Looks like the new Jaguar launch is tonight at 01:00! It's in 'Murica, hence the daft time. Great British brand, owned by India, launching in America. Well at least we are keeping it in former colonies.

Not much help, I know, but I had that fault on our 67 plate 2 litre (150) diesel and I bought a genuine glow plug (03L905061 L) and fitted it. It just worked fine after that (July 2024). No software updated needed.

Check your insurance policy. I was with Aviva and they covered replacement keys if it was lost or stolen. Think there was an excess but not that much. You will need a locksmith that specializes in VAG systems. Read that the Fabia MK3 uses a system for keys that most locksmiths dont have access to. Had a quick google and according to google its an MQB platform. You will either have to go to dealer or find an autolocksmith that can add a new MQB key. I read its not as simple as cloning the working key. The ECU has to be cleared and the new key including old one have to be relearnt by ECU. Had similar trouble on a SEAT. Key failed and couldnt get another one unless I went to dealer. Alasdair

So far I've given it 2 sprays with penetrating oil. And 1 blast with the Wolfbox air blower. It looks clean around the glow plug now. I will give it a go with my small torque wrench, going up to 30 NM maximum to loosen it, after my next daytime drive...

Thinking about getting Seat Leon Mk1 Cupra R alloys, just don't know if they'd look funny because of the smaller brakes on the standard octavia. Anyone got any experience with this? Also looking to pair these with H&R lowering springs.

If it has direct fuel injection, it could be carbon buildup on the intake valves. My 1.2 TSI CBZB in a Mk2 Fabia also suffers from random misfires on cold starts, but they aren't picked up by VCDS. However, I'm planning to clean the intake valves soon. In order to clean the valves, you can take different approaches (all of them require removing the intake manifold). For example, walnut blasting is probably the fastest and most efficient method. Another method, which VW used years ago, involves using a set of 5–6 zip ties and a drill to loosen the carbon buildup. Apply a suitable degreaser and let the zip ties remove the buildup through their rotation. You can then use a pick tool to remove any remaining residue. Be sure to rotate the engine manually so that the valve is fully closed; otherwise, the carbon will fall into the combustion chamber, which isn't good. I will try this method:

City of Aberdeen.

You seem to have done all the sensible checks without success. AC on/off is an interesting clue. I think the A/C drive belt also drives the alternator; loading of the A/C will affect the belt flutter / tension characteristics so maybe the alternator or the tensioner need to be checked (as well as the belt itself). Good luck.

That sounds like an excellent plan. Anything to reduce the build up of brake dust and tar is worth exploring. When I swap over to winter wheels at the end of this month, I am going to get the Veritate wheels ceramic coated. That won't solve every problem with the design, but it should reduce the elbow grease at each cleaning.

Hello, i have a skoda octavia 1.4 tsi chpa 140 ps 2015 on 205 000km. First owner. The car had no critical issues for all mileage. Since February 2026 i have an issue with misfires on random cyliders. I check them with VCDS and OBD Eleven 3 on live data. Also total counter on cyliders is very different on cylinder 4 as: 1-26000; 2-27000; 3-30000 and 4-41000. For certain trips the car generates up to 50 misfires mostly on cylinder 3 and 4, very less on others but still exists. There were a fault codes as P0300 and P0304. I changed: 1) All 4 pcs. of injectors with new by Bosch. 2) Changed the coils from 1 to 4 and from 2 to 3 but no difference. 3) Sparks were also changed, no solution. There are no errors as P0300 and P0304 after injectors change. In the mornings, when air is cold 15 degrees misfires are less, than in hot wether as 30 degrees ambient temperature. In the mornings during catalyc heating there is no issue. When i turn on the AC the misfires gone and no misfires. Without AC misfires exist. Idle rpm are 719 rpm/min. No issue with fuel preasure, injectors sealings, fuel rail, sensors, air filter. I checked the vacuum PCSV with oil cap opening, no issue seen. On intake valves has less carbon on the valve tail. I didn`t do a hasenut cleaning. Has somebody same or simmilar issue? How was solved? Why AC reflects to the misfires? The reason to solve this issue that i feel every misfire of engine. The shakings are very anoying.

Another job that Martlet Autos got done whilst the Caddy was with them was to replace the windscreen rubber. I really wanted to get it done by an automotive glass specialist, because I figured that they would definitely use a quality rubber or risk me making a fuss if the windscreen (still) leaked. Unfortunately the only place local to me which showed an interest in doing the job on a 30 year old car then lost that interest and ghosted me. Plan B was to buy the best quality windscreen rubber that I could find, but that was stymied by the total lack of choice of rubbers which were available from stock. Literally all I could find was a rubber made by Vika on eBay. Sika I am aware of, Vika I was not. It was worryingly cheap too. Still, beggars can’t be choosers, so I ordered one. I was pleasantly surprised when it arrived and did not feel like it had been made from recycled tyres. Johnny at Martlet concurred, and he is better qualified to know than I am. So far so good insofar as the Caddy’s carpet has been staying dry in the recent rain. With all of the bodywork jobs done, for now, it was finally time for a new MOT. On the way over to JKM for the test there was very clearly something wrong with how the Caddy was boosting. As soon as the boost approached 1bar it was all being dumped very abruptly. This was diagnosed to be due to my re-fitting the N75 valve wrongly, which was a simple fix. In what has become my usual style, I had asked JKM to do a couple of jobs which I did not fancy doing myself. One of these jobs was to fit the braided brake hoses. I bought HEL kits for front and rear, which involved making a couple of guesses due to my Caddy having very few of the original spec brake components still fitted. For the front I bought Mondeo hoses to match the ATE callipers, and these proved to be fine. For the rear I bought a Felicia kit, even though I have disc brakes, but this was not so successful. The issue was that the kit was for a Felicia hatchback or estate, and so contained only one hose for each side rather than the two per side required for the pick-up. JKM did try to source the hoses to finish the job, but could not get any delivered in time to fit on the day that the Caddy was with them. That part of it will have to be deferred to another day. The second job was to fit (another) new sump. The one that was on there had not suffered impact damage like the previous one, at least not that I can remember, but it was leaking badly, more so following my forlorn attempt to re-seal it. Whenever I collect a vehicle from JKM, which happens fairly frequently, I always find myself in the evening rush hour on the drive home along the A27. This time it was worse because I was doing it at the height of a heatwave, there were roadworks on the A27 plus a diversion due to a full closure of another road, so the traffic was carnage! I sat in queues virtually the whole way home, and all while the temperature gauge was creeping towards the red. I had remembered the Caddy as cooling very efficiently when it was in more regular use, but it was definitely looking marginal now. The cooling fan tell-tale on the dash was illuminated most of the way home, but the temperature gauge was only coming down when I was generating airflow through motion. It was a massive relief when I made it back home without the Caddy boiling. The next day I tested the cooling fans, and found that whilst the tell-tale was on, the fans were not. It did not take long to pinpoint the fan relay as being the cause. I swapped it for another, and normal operation was restored. When I tested the failed relay on the bench, it actually ‘unstuck’ after a couple of attempts, but I threw it in the bin anyway, I am not trusting that again after it has come so close to causing a disaster.

Just picked up a car with these wheels (would have preferred the standard wheels but we weren’t going to say no to the discount. The Karoq that it replaced had a similar trough but also had plastic aero trims which made cleaning the wheels a real pain. Looks like I am shopping for toothbrushes but one job for later in the week is to take the wheels off and apply some Autoglym alloy wheel protector that I bought three cars ago and never got around to applying.

After almost theee years with a Karoq we set off to look at an Octavia and (for the second time) came back having ordered a Superb. We have been looking around for a while and I saw a new Octavia estate advertised for less than 30k so went to look. Saw it Saturday evening, dealer closed Sunday and Monday advised it had gone. They then found a Superb estate with similar discount (anyone else benefit from the September offer?), the wife agreed and we collected it last Monday. 2.0 TDI SEL auto with 19” wheels. After two 2.0 TDI SEL hatches as personal leases we have a third Superb.

"plus £110 extra for auxiliary belt" Wow, that's a lot of parts cost for an auxiliary drive belt. A belt you have to take off and refit as part of a cambelt change anyway. So they can't claim any extra labour is involved. Edit "unless that means the aux belt tensioner too, but I fear it doesn't"

And just had a quote from the local dealership for £516 (inc VAT). And payment up front just so that they can source the key!!!

Hi have recently had brake problems with my beloved Fabia VRS 1.9TDI and my garage cannot find a brake vacuum pipe and I have tried searching the web with no success. Any fellow VRS lovers got any possible leads on where spares can be found for my 2007 model. Any help much appreciated as I hate the thought of not being able to brake!!

I think so too😊 hi!