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My estate seemed To have accessory net for dog if that’s useful to you (MkiV as it happens) My mechanic friend says that the engines have become so much more efficient that perhaps you may well find the 1.1 all you need especially with majority of trips very local

Thank you so much for everyone’s support on this, and thank you @OccyVRS for the extensive feedback, that’s provided me with some really clear information on the situation. As you say, I’ll wait to see what codes have been thrown and make a decision based on that. Would you guys be happy to help me out if I come back with codes on Monday, to see whether any of them are concerning enough for me to walk ? That final insight would really help me feel confident with the decision I make. Just to answer a few of those questions you raised Occy, I’ve left some notes below: 1 - interestingly , my interior is stitched red (seats, steering wheel, gearstick etc). Brakes wise I’ll have to check in the daylight tomorrow. Unless you could spec a VAQ from factory on the 230 (?), I still don’t think this would have come with one right? 2 - As you say, I was a bit wary buying from Cinch given the fact that most cars traded into WBAC are most likely hiding something… I guess I proved the point to myself the hard way! In terms of a good deal, can you tell me? It seemed decent at the time. It was £11,999 for an 86k miles, 2018, 230ps petrol manual estate in meteor grey. I did keep my eye on the market, maybe not for as long as I should have before buying, and anything manual + petrol + estate was around 13-14k, though granted they were 245 editions. What do we reckon, bad or good deal? 3 - appreciate the insight, I’ll wait to see what codes were thrown 4 - do you reckon they could have refitted the parts incorrectly as part of the repairs, and that’s now throwing this EPC issue? I might have misunderstood the suggestion you were raising here. 5 - similar to my question above, do you reckon they’ve reported the relevance between the issue and the fix wrong here? Two more things: I’ve booked the car in to a ŠKODA dealer for Friday next week (assuming the car is fixed by then) for a post purchase inspection effectively (not what they call it but whatever!). Is there anything in particular I should ask them to look at? I obviously can provide all the context I’ve given on this thread, but should I get them to focus on a particular repair that has been done by Cinch, to check they were done properly? Interestingly, and @Warrior193 thanks for your insight also, the wheels on the car are actually 19inch Xtreme alloys (photo attached to make sure I’m not being stupid??). They look like they’ve been recoated also, or once again am I being stupid? Thank you all so much for the help, I appreciate the time you’re putting in to help a ŠKODA novice not make a £11,999 mistake! I want to be part of the gang after deciding to part ways my current car (currently selling my 1995 Volvo T5 manual🥲), but maybe I should not be so hasty. yet again, there’s some positives amongst what’s been said, so there’s a chance this car is still worth keeping, right?

700k ! Now that's what I'm talking about Our last (CEGA) diesel had 270k on it when sold, original injectors and glow plugs.

I'd suggest getting the battery properly tested first. There is probably a date code stamp on the top surface of the battery neg. terminal, code format is WW/YY. If the MIL (check engine) indicator is lit, there should be a DTC logged - perhaps your OBD reader is incapable of reading it. What charger have you been using?

Correct, they are maximum settings. Whereas the auto recharge setting selects the highest, safe charging rate for present battery state.

I ended up buying a new (UK) Skoda Fabia SE L Edition in June. So with the darker nights and driving in the dark, I can answer my initial question. My car has the standard Basic LED headlights (features LED dipped and main beams + LED DRL's), it also has manual adjustment of the beam height. The light output from these headlights is perfectly decent on both main and dipped beams (and certainly significantly better than any Halogen headlights I've experienced), although not quite as good as the self levelling Full LED lights on my previous SEAT Ibiza FR. I am quite happy with the performance of the basic LED headlights on the Fabia, and I'm glad that I didn't pay the extra to upgrade them. I think the headlights referred to from DerekU's link above, dated 1st February 2026, must have been replaced with a far better item (since the topic was created in 2022). Mine are fine, and I do a significant amount of night driving. Just thought I should do an update.

I ended up buying a new (UK) Skoda Fabia SE L Edition in June. So with the darker nights and driving in the dark, I can partially answer my initial question. My car has the standard Basic LED headlights (features LED dipped and main beams + LED DRL's), it also has manual adjustment of the beam height. The light output from these headlights is perfectly decent on both main and dipped beams (and certainly significantly better than any Halogen headlights I've experienced), although not quite as good as the self levelling Full LED lights on my previous SEAT Ibiza FR. I am quite happy with the performance of the basic LED headlights on the Fabia, and I'm glad that I didn't pay the extra to upgrade them.

If you can get the daily updates for the applications then I don't see why you wouldn't get the OTA infotainment update too.... It was released quite a long time ago so I assume that the roll out is slow. I'm not sure if there's a way to force it...

Reasons to be cheerful.....

My brother in law is looking to buy a replacement for his Mazda 6 estate and is impressed with the 280 Superb Scout I have. However he doesn't want the high performance version and we've discounted the diesels due to a lot of his mileage being short local runs. That narrows it down to the 2 liter petrol or the 1,5 PHEV. I have no experience of either of these models but thought the collective mind of the forum might give us some ideas on which one to choose! One of his wants he probably won't get is the variable height floor (I've not seen one for sale yet) but I've seen that the PHEV has a different floor due to the battery? Does that variant have a flat floor from the loading edge forward or does it drop down like the rest of the range without the variable height floor option? Over to you lot! Guy

No error code for the battery. I have no idea how old it is (I've had the car for 3 years) but I know that if I put it on charge it charges up quickly. Maybe I'll put it on charge tomorrow. I should say that my car gets used for lots of short trips, nearly every day down the road for about a mile and back up again. I need to use my other car more see photo ........but only in good weather! Or walk down and up.

Can anyone advise how to do this on an Octavia Mk4.5. I have tried but with no success. Thank you.

That's interesting, one might imagine that the 2,4, 6 or 8 amp settings are maximum settings, otherwise, if the charge rate (amps) is constant then the voltage must be changing, once my SOC reaches ~ 75% SOC then the charging rate is down to a measured 0.38A as the charger effectively goes to maintenence mode at around 12.7V and the charging rate will fall still lower as the SOC increases so would take days to reach 90% SOC. I would expect your charger to behave similar to mine, below, at least in auto recharge.

Doesn’t give much to go on. Although the yellow battery indicator on the right; is OBD11 saying battery is one of the error codes? A battery on its way out is famous for all the most random errors - can you get a decent tester on it? How old is it?

Not what I have done, but more what someone else has done to it. Some bad parking in a car park by someone resulted in some paint transfer to the rear drivers side door. Some hand polish has been ordered to try and correct it. I don’t think it’s gone right through but I have ordered some touch up paint too just in case. A pleasant surprise that the person actually left contact details and we agreed upon a cash transfer to cover the cost of polish and paint.

I think that it's more mileage than the average non-taxi, non-courier diesel car is covering in the UK. (A friend was a driver for many years for a courier company in the UK, delivering classified documents. The cars (Skoda diesels) were doing 700K++ miles. He used to do 700++ miles in a day, no problem.) What has been the experience of other forum members with the mileage covered by glow plugs and diesel injectors?

I wish more people would run thru the numbers on car ownership. EV PCP deals start at around £150 a month and that is reckoned to be only a half to a third ot typical annual cost of running a car new or old. I have both experienced and hear about it on a monthly basis how much out of warranty cars can cost to repair, freightening. Charging at home is great, tomorrow, 9th of September there are 3 price dips, 5p to 6p per KWh around 0230 am until 5 am, 2.6p to 6p between 1130 and 1530 and then again 5p to 3.8p 2130 to MDT. This can give a running mileage cost of about 1,5p per mile !! 700 miles a month, quite average, £10 for an EV, Petrol and diesel quite close at 18 to 19p per mile on average so about £130 a month, almost paying for a cheap lease deal and no MOT, fixing and cheaper servicing. I think many would find it is a good economic move to go EV rather than run a 5 or 10 year old ICE car. Charging only in public is difficult but there are some very good public charging deals which are quite close to home charging prices. For some of us it is not about only money, though that is nice, it is about stopping polluting the world. After last summer and possible this winter people and governments may reconsider and a generous 8,500 Euros.... https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ZLqxtksN05I You can calculate your complete vehicle expenses using the Car Ownership Cost Calculator UK to see a full breakdown per mile and month. [1] Running a car in the UK costs an average of £290 to £429 per month (£3,484 to £5,150 per year), depending on your annual mileage and vehicle type. [1, 2] KnowTheCostCar Ownership Cost Calculator UK 2026 | True Annual Cost...Calculate the true cost of owning a car in the UK in 2026. Includes VED, insurance, fuel, servicing, depreciation and MOT. See your real cost per mile.https://brumble.co.uk/guides/cost-of-running-a-car-uk

Other than the connectors and the rivets were any other changes needed? I have fitted fairly cheap pioneer speakers to my superb as the old ones were completely broken but these may be an upgrade I do in the future.

I haven’t. But if they issued a tsb they may well do it for free. So long as the tsb was issued within the warranty period. I have this with the bcm recall. I just haven’t got round to taking it in yet.

Ferrite beads may help. I had a similar thing with cheap usb adaptors in the cigarette lighters of my superb knocking out the dab. Changed to slightly more expensive ones and it resolved it. Strangely I can use the cheap ones in my wife’s kodiaq without issue.

My superb does this a bit. It’s got 130,000 miles on the clock and previous owner missed a gearbox service so I generally forgive her a little jerkiness. If you have vcds or carscanner or similar you can adjust the autohold sensitivity which may help.

Dear lord, this sounds like a right ballache. Was it able to be sorted in the end?

I normally leave it on charge for up to 12 hours or overnight. Charger is completely automatic (auto recharge) but also has manual settings for 2,4, 6 or 8 Amp charge rate and setting for EFB/AGM or standard LA battery. Charger switches automatically to maintenance charge rate once it detects the battery is fully charged regardless of charge rate or mode selected. Charging voltage and Amps are displayed alternately on the screen while it is charging. 2-monthly charges are only during winter if I'm not driving it much.

Ah that’s interesting. I get the daily updates but don’t have connected services so will I have to do full fw update manually? The kodiaq is due to go in for bcm recall so may ask if they can do it then too.

Agreed. I’m imagining they’re Gemini wheels, so it could be one for the issue, one for the refurb/diamond cut? Not sure. I wouldn’t really worry about the tyres - any used dealership car ever comes with unbranded crap. I’ve been with someone to pick up a 718 GT4 with mismatched tyres!