All Activity

I'm likewise 302 but so far had zero offers of the 0334 update and continued daily minor updates that fail.

Suit yourself, but your spark plugs may never have been looked at in the last 4 years and are a very basic 'car maintenance 101' item.

quick one, but would a torn PCV diaphram cause this stalling issue? I am about to pull the PCV assembly out of the valve cover & see if its intact. I cant seem to find replacement diaphrams only online but cheap enough to order the whole thing. I'll update on tis in 20 mins or so

NEVER EVER use standard bolts with spacers!! always get longer bolts, to compensate for the spacer thickness. also, make sure u get hub-centric spacers if ur going to get spacers.

Tbh I’m with Willie 94 Rather bemused with how to say HI “Go to section you’re interested in” That’s say hi? I dunno New to this social media vibe I guess

Sorry for late reply. My car was at dealer's service at the beginning of the year. However, the issue still exists. In the service I was first driving a mechanic with me. I don't know if he totally understood the sound and the feeling I'm experiencing. He explained something that when the gear stick is in the middle and you change gears 3rd and 4th the cables are a bit looser and there is not that much tension than when using 1st and 2nd or 5th and 6th. He also wondered if cold wheather has anything to do with the sound. But it doesn't. I asked him to drive and test, but he didn't want to. However, he agreed to take the car for inspection. I went home and later they called and said there was nothing loose or wrong and that maybe (!) the sound is a feature. They argued that the mechanic had driven two other cars and they made the same sound. Before buying I had test driven a few year old Scala with over 70k km in it and the gear change was not like mine. It was similar to my old Leon and I was not having any problems with that. So it still makes sound that changes all the time. Also changing to 3rd is still not smooth and many times something resists when moving the stick. Also 2nd and 4th are not that smooth. 5th and 6th are fine. Basicaly you can't say in advance how it sounds or feels in every gear change. In one change it can be quiet and feel like you are moving it to soft rubber or so. Then on other changes it can make many kind of sounds. The different sounds are like "click", "clank", "click-click", "trrr". And they can be relatively loud. Also the feeling changes. In the spring I felt many times that it feels like something is spinning and it needs to settle in order for the gear to slot in. Now this doesn't feel anymore, but there's still something in 3rd many times which stops the stick movement and you have to use more force to push through. Sometimes this feels through the stick like you are pushing through tight metals that rub against each other. Sometimes the stick rattles or feels like jumping when moving. Is this something to do with synchros? I have also tested to change down to 3rd when slowing all the time and keep the stick at the point when something resists it to go further. When the speed drops to under 20 km/h or even 15 km/h then the stick shuddenly goes forward almost by itself to the end of the movement without a problem. This gear behaviour annoys me quite a lot. It's not nice to drive when the changing is not smooth and also the sound. @nmsilva96 Are you experiencing all these same issues or just some of them? What year model is your Scala?

What faults are shown when a diagnostic tablet / VCDS is plugged into your car?

Bringing this thread back, as I've done quite a bit of experimenting with the car's coding. It turns out that changing only the SIA max value for the oil service and the FIX max value for the inspection with poor quality oil set did the trick and allowed me to set the service interval to 10,000 km. Everything else is set to 15k.

Any pictures of this trim ?

Hi @pab567, could you please send me the download link for RNS510-6276-Update-VIM+Tm_60_35_5.iso via PM? My unit is a Skoda Columbus 3T0 035 686 H, HW H21, C14 SSD, currently stuck in a boot loop. My account is new, so I can't send PMs yet. Thank you very much! Artur

Swapping two coil packs over fixed it, so I doubt the plugs are the issue. I think I'll replace the coil packs, since their claimed life expectancy is 100,000 miles, with some lasting out to 140,000 from the reports I've seen.

I'd be pretty concerned about the wheel rims being 'dented' in any way. How much is 'slightly'?

I tried silicone and it didn’t last. Some have said tiger seal. I cleaned up the groove and made sure the trim was shaped well and not out of line and it seems to have stayed on its own. Time will tell.

Brake 😊

Had to open the picture in a new window to do that - but it did work. As I thought, it refers to removal of bumper in a different part of the manual - so still doesn't answer my question.

Hi All, I have a superb Mk3 Estate 2018 and for the last couple of days while driving I get a fault come up saying rear parking break fault, but once i stop the car and turn it off and restart the car it clears the fault. and the operates ok again. I've had both rear wheels off and checked wires and cant see any loose connections, wondering if anyone has had this type of fault or what was required to solve the problem.

You can click/tap on the picture and then zoom in to see the text closer.

With the 1.4 TDI 90 with a remap to 115bhp. Sit at 65-70mph on the motor way and expect around 70mpg. A road 55-60mph expect 72mpg. Aggressive mixed driving and 75-85mph on the motorway expect around 60-65mpg. That’s with the DSG and my observation over 100000 miles.

As "settings" i mean the gauges cluster module using long coding over OBD interface. Just as the OBDEleven threads for Octavia Mk.4 before FL, and for Golf mk 7 and 7.5 are stating. Or is the ASC doing it in a different way?

No problem. I've used them a few times recently and am starting to view them as my favourite supplier for genuine or 'safe bet' pattern parts. Delivery surprisingly swift from Czech too.

Hi folks, as per the subject title. The red inserts, do they illuminate or not?

You've changed from an EFB battery to AGM. You really should get it coded as the charging requirements are a little different. If you can't do it yourself with VCDS, ObdEleven, Carscanner or similar there must be someone on here who's near Guildford and can help. Failing that do you have a friendly local independent garage/mechanic ? Anybody in the trade should be able to do it.

Ooops. Correction made. Thanks for spotting this so quickly!