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Hi, new here, so here goes… I recently purchased a Škoda Octavia Mk3 vRS Combi, and mostly, all seemed ok. However, the dash display is now showing an intermittent 'No GPS Reception' notification, which causes the number of satellites to drop in/out, and although it's showing long/lat, sat nav is not working correctly. (Strangely, this began a couple days after having the car serviced). I've tried the infotainment system reset but to no avail. The maps aren’t up to date, and I initially thought the issue might be related to that. But from what I’ve read, it’s more likely the ’Shark Fin’ is faulty, as they can suffer from water ingress. I’m looking into buying a replacement, but wanted to ask for further diagnosis advice before purchasing. (any removal/installation pointers would also be appreciated) Also, I want to update the maps, and have looked on the portal, but can only see MIB2 update. So I’m unsure what the correct update is. The car currently has the Amundsen MIB1 head unit, that has the cd player and two SD Card slots, linked to the 6” screen. (I’m considering my options upgrading the (Bolero?) Infotainment system too but will create another post). The original Škoda SD card is in slot no’ 1. And from what I know, this will facilitate the update. But it states on the portal, ‘Delete all data on the SD card’. Is that correct? And I assume 'or format the card', is related to a non Škoda SD card? I appreciate this topic may have been covered before, but I’m not the most tech savvy, so any clarification or advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards p.s. the car does not have a USB input, only the 'media in' port which I believe needs an adapter to use?

Did this P33400P update fix the issue?

Hi - I'm looking at selling my 18 plate VRS estate ( diesel) 185BHP which gives me regular 45 - 52 mpg (depending on journey type). I'm currently looking at some 24/25 plate Mk 4's ( petrol obviously ) at 240/260 BHP and was wondering what the real world MPG figures might be compared to the Skoda figure of 40. I've always found most manufacturer figures are always very optimistic to say the least. Thanks - Ian.

Did you drive the car with revs going above 1500 while the connector was unplugged?

Hello, I tried this and with the wire removed there is still no light! I replaced the oil switch anyway, as this is quite a cheap attempt at a repair, and there is no difference. Also noticed that the old one, when I took it out, has no oil on it, nor could I find any oil in the recess it screws into. Picture below. So, the oil way to the switch is blocked? And someone (previous owner) has disabled the red light, so that it doesn't constantly display? Apart from this, the engine is working fine. Not sure where I go from here!

The Golf's now just behind the Volvo - I missed its 46K last week on the way up to Norwich 🙄: Gaz

Have you any photos please?

Hi! I’m looking for the firmware update for my LG MIB2 unit. My current system version is: SW: MEN2_EU_VWGPx_P7381L MU: 8740 Part No.: 5G6 035 869 Would you please share a download link for the full firmware (SD/USB version)? I’d greatly appreciate your help. Thanks in advance!

Welcome Graham 1874 Wow that’s a step change in size from your previous. Makes my Octavia estate look underfed ;) Both good lookers though! Sure you’ll find tips from those in the know on this site.

I bought some from AliExpress, obviously not OEM but they fit and look great.

Somebody news from the dealership or an idea what would help with this strange noise?

I have done testing. Managed to get Festo 2.5bar analog meter and put it with 1m hose instead temp sensor (so i can put it on wiper and close bonnet on first click). Until 2000mbar specified, actual and analog are all ok 2400mbar specified, actual is 100mbar or more larger and analog (after intercooler) is showing around 2000-2200 mbar. Can I conclude that intercooler is still not brand-new clean after it's washed from heavy soot ? Bdw MAF sensor error came again after this test. I dont drive like this every day... Here are pics of intercooler before engine head, after honeycomb...after 3000km

The way it's been raining, I'd suspect it's just the scuttle not draining the water out as fast as it's been coming in. The rough way of looking is pour half a bucket of water down that side of the scuttle and see if it comes out inside the car, or just at the bottom of the wing behind the wheel. I'm not particularly familiar with the Superb, but on the Octavia (and a lot of modern VAG cars), you can unbolt the panel at the front of the scuttle for access rather than strip the wipers off. If it helps you see how it goes together, the panel is often painted black as opposed to body colour. Normally on VAG cars, there's a drain hole at each end of the scuttle to channel water down the inside of the wing. It's normally oval and about big enough to get your thumb stuck in. If you do want to take the wipers off, you can get puller tools. Mine's a Sealey VS806, but you can get similar ones in no-name. Give the spindles a good spray the night before and they should come off fairly easily with the right tool. If you're taking the arch liner out, just have a good look for a built up of road grime/dried mud, give it a sweep out and have a look corrosion hidden by the build up. Superb's don't normally rust though, so I'd go in fairly confident that it's nothing bad.

I messaged @Alvin600 to offer help via VIN, but received no response.

Idle curiosity, but was this ever resolved? This 2021 BRISKODA topic in the Skoda Octavia Mk4 sub-forum refers to a similar enquiry about the presence (or not) of the cooling shutters. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490404-radiator-blinds/ This advice was given They do exist and are easy to see. Just take a peek below the license plate after the car has been parked and you will see them closed. I always forget to try to see them open. The shutter unit (pictures in my last posting) apparently has the Part Number 5Q0122323A and the same unit seems to have bee fitted to quite a few VAG Group models (not just Skodas).

This is dripping down under the dashboard above the throttle pedal. I have a bowl perched there at the minute which was half full when I checked this morning.. I`ts extremely annoying as I have no idea where it may be coming in from. Tried to remove wiper blades this morning to get to the scuttle panel but cannot get the wiper arms to part company from the bolts and don`t want to risk breaking the windscreen so looks like I`m going to have to get garage assistance..

I bought my 21 plate 2.0L vrs in feb 2025 Software wise no issues as its fully updated. I use to have bluetooth issues before but since using apple car play which i believes uses local wifi (could be wrong) the connection is fine In cold /wet weather i also get front assist is not available message initially but then it goes away Also wet weather keeps telling my my front parking sensors need a clean, perhaps water might be leaking somewhere. All my front 4 sensors work so im assuming moisture might be affecting it So i bought the car circa 40k miles and have done 8k miles in just under 2 years and might be my luck but i have had suspension issues but most likely wear and tear. I managed to permanently turn off lane assist and fake engine sound using obd11 along with enabling other features. QoL has improved But after nearly 2 years i still enjoy driving the vrs and hope you will enjoy yours

Hey guys, I'm currently running firmware version 1898 on my Skoda Octavia Mk4, and I wanted to update it to the latest version. When I entered my SW train into MIB Helper, it showed MOI3_EU_VW_R9690L as the latest available version. However, when I tried to install it, I got an error message indicating a variant conflict. Has anyone encountered this issue before or knows what causes it? Could it be that I'm using the wrong SW train, or is there another way to resolve it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Yes.Thanks

Thanks, just what I wanted. In the meantime I cruised ElsaWin and was a bit surprised how hard it seems to get to both the module inside rear right boot cover and the horn itself, under the rear headlining. Diagnostics fault descriptors aren't always exactly what they seem. I've decided the least course of work is to access the rear parking module behind the right side boot cover which itself seems work, then probe the connector for the horn looking for resistance or capacitance. If I'm lucky the fault may be at J791 connector, if not I'll prove it's the horn, wiring or its connector if it has one. I liked the idea of putting a replacement somewhere easier to get to and I'll see if it can still be heard mounted behind a cover in the boot area. Thanks again.

Not sure on the superb but I had water in my old octavia. Combination of damaged/flatend door seal and also coming in behind door card. Alasdair

Found this on a Yeti forum. Might help its for a 2013 so I assume location is the same https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/threads/rear-parking-sensor-buzzer.16496/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic

New bolts arrived yesterday Febi 40112 smooth but bit stormy today. Gusts of 70mph and very wet. Ordered a new socket 3/4" drive to arrive today as all mine are 1/2" and looked out my 5 foot pole with 3/4 breaker bar but reckon it will be tomorrow before I attempt it. Thanks Alasdair

Good Morning and welcome Derk2d2, hope the car serves you well.

Your figures are right. One thing to watch when you redo them, as the smooth bolt has a set order and it's easy to get the 200 Nm stage wrong: 1. With the car on its wheels, crack the old bolt but don't undo it more than about 90°. 2. Jack it up so the wheel is off the ground, have someone hold the brake pedal, and take the bolt out. 3. Fit the new bolt and do the 200 Nm with the wheel still off the ground and the brake held. 4. Lower it onto its wheels, then do the final 180°. Don't move the car between taking the old bolt out and the final angle, because the bearing doesn't like carrying weight with the bolt loose. The smooth one is a stretch bolt, so use a new one each time rather than putting the 70 + 90 one back in. For the 180°, a long bar and an angle gauge makes it a lot easier, or mark the socket and the hub with paint and go half a turn.