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Hi Jack, thanks for your feedback. I think in one way or another, the OEM kits have a cross over between the belt, tensioner and water pump, from what I have read (i.e. they may produce one but source the other parts from other OEM's). I don't think you can go too far wrong with any of the main OEM's and SKF, ContiTech, INA all produce kits for all related parts, either with or without the water pump. I was strongly considering buying a genuine water pump with one of the tensioner/belt kits. I don't know what normally fails on the water pump, whether it is the seal or the bearings. SKF have a good rep for their bearings. There seems to be a lot of emphasis placed on plastic vs metal impellers but do these fail? In the end, I went with the full kit from INA: INA Water Pump + V-ribbed Belt Kit 529 0534 30 I couldn't find out who the OEM is for the genuine pump for the 1.2TSI as mine was replaced with aftermarket five years ago (maybe someone here knows for sure?). But I would pick the kit in future with the best quality water pump, as it will likely fail sooner than the other parts in the kit, if it is a quality kit. Hopefully I'll still have the Monte in service in five years' time to see if I chose wisely ;) Yes, the Kit B for the cam chain kit will be genuine. I've heard nothing but good things from the forums once fitted.

although I rate a good independant better than a dealer, I'd prefer a dealer full history if I was buying from a stranger. The VW dealer uses ODIS which is exactly the same system as the Skoda dealer and it will flag any compulsory software updates that need to be applied to your car

So I got a lot more info on my car today after calling my local Skoda dealer they gave me print outs of all of its service history which is all with the manufacturer also in 2017 the tensioner and chain was also changed at 56,000 miles to the newer revised version which has now saved me a small fortune😁

Evening All. Goodness, there's a lot to learn within the settings of these cars! Since I adore cars, love driving and enjoy sharing my experiences on all the car forums I have joined over the years, I am going to use this thread to post my initial experience of ownership before wrapping it up. I'll try and do this thematically and. since it's a bit late tonight, I will start with the Canton audio system. I know, it's a weird topic to kick off with but I can keep this reasonably focused! It's really very good. Surprisingly good. I am an audiophile and I was not holding out much hope for the Canton 14+1 system but it has impressed me and tonight, dare I say it, on a 60min round trip along the Scottish Borders pitch black roads to try some night driving, I actually really enjoyed the music. And that's the thing: it is a music system rather than an 'in-car entertainment system'. The music is played back the way it was recorded in an authentic way. Some Chinese cars link the ambient cabin lighting up to the sound system to create a disco experience - folks, that's me checked out of the Jaecoo or BYD! Most folk head to the settings and pump it all up: the surround sound, the sub, the low bass and higher treble frequencies - the classic smile shape on the graphic equaliser. Don't do it people! If you do this, the first ten minutes will be bangin' but then your head will become fatigued. Re-tune the brain to enjoy music with the Eq set at zero, or pretty close to zero across the range and choose stereo rather than surround sound. Initially it doesn't sound so big but, give your brain at least 30mins to adjust and the music is clear, layered, separated across the sound stage before you. Our brains are wonderful things but they need to hear music like they hear sound in the real world, not a rave party in an abandoned warehouse. The bass is there, as are the mid-range and the treble. Set to zero on the Eq simply means we are taking the sound clean as Canton intended - frequencies are neither boosted nor reduced by the Eq. Same with the LR balance and FR fader- set to default centre so the Digital Sound Processing (DSP) is again as Canton intended within the cabin. Finally, we chose the focus setting for just the two front seats so the DSP would be adjusted for our positions in the cabin. That's how these systems work DSP adjusted to where you tell it you are sitting. We play our music from a USB thumb drive, 256GB, exFAT format. The music on this drive is ripped directly from specific CDs that have been properly sound engineered and not ruined by the brickwalling of the Loudness Era (mid-1990s onwards with a few exceptions by artists who objected to their music being ruined by the record labels). Flac format, lossless. Rubbish in equals rubbish out. Start with a high quality source and don't use Bluetooth for this type of playback. Tonight it was Fleetwood Mac. Quite how the five members managed to write and produce such beautifully crafted music when they did nothing other than argue amongst themselves and snort cocaine is one of life's great mysteries. But they did and the Canton system shone with Gypsy, Little Lies, Tusk, Everywhere and The Chain. Hugely enjoyable. Open, clear, warm and thoroughly engaging. Would I use compressed music files such as MP3 or AAC? Would I ever use Bluetooth for the connection? Yes, for convenience when I just want some music, nothing special. But if that's the limit of my expectation then I am leaving a huge amount of the Canton's potential on the table. And since we have paid for the superior music system, it's nice to hear it occasionally really shine. This truly has been as unexpected bonus. Canton? I thought it would be okay. Not annoying, that was my bottom line. I can only assume that those folk that have slammed the system maybe didn't get the settings right, or were playing poor source material (trust me, there are some dreadful CDs out there with dynamic ranges (DR) down at just DR8). Or maybe they were streaming, using Bluetooth and compressing the music data as a result. Whatever, I am impressed. It'll be another theme tomorrow so, if the Canton music system and details about setup haven't been your thing.....maybe tomorrow will be more your bag. Well done for getting this far! Best wishes to all.

Cheers buddy - will update when I find out more.

Just to clarify the car does have the “fitted with towing system” in its description.

Thanks for the very quick reply! Sadly I bought the car from another garage unaware that this was going to be such a problem. I contacted the skoda dealer after discussion with an independent tow fitter who said he wouldn't do it because of the coding issues.

Ask your dealer for a copy of the options fitted to your car. He should supply a detailed list of them. You need to look for 'fitted with towing system' or something to that effect. If it does then you need to get the correct towbar orded and fitted. If your dealer can't or won't do it then poor show IMO. Towsure if they're still going should be more helpful.

It's so frustrating dealing with companies like that!! They're either easy to deal with or a major pain in the bottom!! Hope ur able to get a resolution soon and get the right springs sent ur way.

Hi everyone I've bought a 2024 2litre diesel skoda karoq to tow my caravan with. It came highly recommended for towing my van. I now find out it's definitely not that simple! Please bear with me as I'm new to all this ... It's definitely got the pre towing needed on the car but my local skoda dealer will not fit a tow bar but recommend an independent chap. However having read all about the lack of coding and how you have to disconnect the braking sensors I'm so confused. Can anyone explain this to me in plain English please? Apologies as I'm sure this has already been discussed to death but I'm a newbie and really struggling. Thank you

Hopefully it's all sorted soon and u can get back to enjoying the car again.

Yep, good shout. Had watched lots of YouTube vids and was sensitive to that. Rear didn’t need touching as we changed the droplinks in situ. Front were unbolted and kept out the way then bolted back in, in the right holes. I can see the headlights self-level when I start the car so figure they’re working and happy too.

Sounds like you’ve either lost confidence or don’t have a good rapport with the dealer (or both), in which case I would be looking elsewhere. A good independent should be able to do everything a dealer can, but as you say finding one is easier said than done. Interestingly a Škoda dealer near me is advertising servicing for VW and Seat as well as Škoda - would be worth a chat with you nearby VW dealer, hopefully you’ll get a positive response.

Did u check the leveling sensors on the front LCAs? Usually when u remove or lower the LCA, u need to disconnect the leveling sensors so they don't snap or break. If they do break, or the wrong way round, the suspension (DCC), headlights, ABS and steering will b upset. There r two on each front LCA, and one on the rear left arm. Looks like this...... Rear...

I have the same problem, today i cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol (Spray PRF IPA/220) , so I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and let you know.

What pallavas! Makes me lucky the one order I did make was accurate. I did order from Spareto last week. Seemed a decent price for a pair of aluminium LCAs at c.£70 each. I needed them quickly so swallowed the £36 delivery and DHL did deliver quickly (although originally said they would deliver after I needed them). The kick in the balls was the £53 import duty DHL then hit me with. Exceptionally aggressive WhatsApp messaging and threatening early on to go down the credit collection referral. Tad unnecessary on top of it. Will def plan my parts purchasing in future.

4wa is booked - couldn’t schedule doing the work and getting the alignment done straight after. Minimal miles so I’m not overly worried about it as it’s a known. But it’s whether there’s a healthy chance that the midalignment would also trigger any or all of these by throwing out ADAS is what I’m curious about. Or whether it’s perhaps a wheel speed sensor as well and it’s multiple causes. ACC doesn’t work, nor does auto main beam (crystal matrix). That with the lane assist and dynamic lighting I could believe is ADAS, but the tyre pressure indicator, ESP, Autohold and hill start assist definitely point to a wheel sensor. Rear traffic alert doesn’t really fit into any of those categories though.

Crikey.....it's all broken. Have u done a wheel alignment after mucking around with ur suspension? That's rule #1. As for the other errors - makes no sense, given u checked ur battery n it seems good.

Ahhh, a lesser one! CD changer is in the glovebox on these. We do enjoy a multimedia experience...

Depends how long you're looking to keep it. At 5 years old independents are defo an option but there are still people that will put main dealer history first when buying.

the phone I use needs to be plugged in to charge. Waze also works via wireless. Makes no difference in the problem. Again, that is not the problem. The skoda map is not used at all. The arrow indications in the centre console are managed by Waze but do not always show the correct expected direction. If the arrow displayed consistently indicated the correct turn direction there would be no problem. as an aside: The automatic switching of the console to the skoda map is a stupidity which can indeed be temporarily switched off by selecting a different content. Unhappily the centre console display is dynamic and can't AFAIK be locked on one specific app/function. The overall display that I have is: Left: analogue revcounter and distance-to-car-in-front display Right: analogue roadspeed, fuel remaining

Thank you both. I will check the rear door seals, i would never of thought to look there ! My VRs is a 2014 estate, so as Gaz says the earlier model was prone to reports of this. Sunroof water is running clear yes, I poured boiling water plus fairy liquid down the front holes,also put a curtain wire down both this afternoon. I’ll also have a look to see if there are holes under the back of sunroof near the glass but I don’t think there are. Door seals especially rear passenger side which is shown in the photo above seems the most likely culprit.This was as if a bucket of water was emptied in there ! At the moment I have her parked with both passenger wheels up on the kerb. Will be a few days until I can investigate further. Will let you know the outcome . Many Thanks guys.

Thought I'd let you know that finally, hopefully, without talking too soon!🤞, my infotainment updates seems to be sorted, at the start of last week I had a huge system update that took a combination of 4 20 minute journeys to download, and then could only update whilst the engine was off, after that updated I got a notification that there was 3 updates, all were the original updates I'd had 3 months ago, even though it was only the application one that kept repeating daily, they were "successfully" completed last thursday, although 1 did require me to lock my car for a minute!🤷‍♂️ but since then I've haven't had the daily applications update message that I'd been getting. So it would appear to address this issue Skoda have had to send out a huge system update just to install 3 small update, well thats what I hoping.

Right. After 15 minutes or so it did actually turn off with the car locked. And it booted back up to the same place so I think it will be safe to leave it. I think I’m going to call it a night and order another screen and get a refund on this one. Maybe there was a reason this one was so cheap…

Following work on the front end chassis over the weekend I have the following collection of errors. On the way home of a half hour drive, about 5 minutes from home, these came up. They also come up every time the ignition goes on. What’s the consensus: Lee’s battery is on its way out - it’s coincidence Lee’s ham-fisted approach has probably unalived a wheel speed sensor Changing the rear drop links, front droplinks and lower arms (including loosening the subframe and now making the car pull left unless the steering is 30degrees right) probably means an ADAS recalibration is needed Booked in for a few things end of the month (oil service, dsg service, ruddy top mounts, front arb) then straight for 4wa after. Question is, do I need to do anything else as well? Also tested the battery and was pretty decent SOH and SOC so that doesn’t flag immediately but I could be being naive on that… Thoughts…?