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Is this just the anti-stall software not allowing you to trickle along at (too low) revs? What revs is it doing at 38mph in 5th?

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/what-was-racing-like-half-a-century-ago-skoda-120-s-rallye-delights-a-champion/

Top Cowling 1.2HTP Škoda 03E103929A ? Need VIN to check properly, but that's what comes up for 2012 CGPA engine. Maybe it had something non-original on it before, if that doesn't look like what you expect. I will message you to ask for VIN. Dirt on the outside of the engine doesn't matter, clean oil inside is much more important

Yes, I know it's dirty as hell 😂 I have tried several places, plus shops, but we are struggling to find the right fit. None of the covers I have found has the oil cap where mine is placed. Ps: its scheduled for a proper clean once the parts are in place

Thanks Dave, that's what I was afraid might be the answer. The problem I have is that my new DELL laptop doesn't have a CD/DVD player built in so unless I can find an inexpensive CD player to plug in, I am stuck with what I have.

Looks like an engine cover's the least of your worries I assume you've tried eBay, Amazon and Skoda?

A couple of years back i had my car in the shop, and upon the return my engine cover was gone. I am struggling to find a replacement, and was hoping some here could help me. It's a Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo, 1.2htp. I'll attach a photo. Hopefully someone here can help me get what I need.

Let's hope that fixes it then. I assume it's being done free of charge under warranty?

The latch on the tailgate springs back to the open position even when forced with a screwdriver. I have reversed right up to the garage door for overnight security. Skoda roadside assistance are due to fit a new latch on Monday. My elroq has only done 3100m since new in May.

Has anyone managed to get a goodwill payment for this fault? My Leon 1.4TSI broke down a couple of weeks ago, fuel leak from the fuel rail, 1 bolt ‘missing’ and others loose. 3rd party warranty would not pay out because it was a bolt issue and bolts aren’t covered!

Found similar in cluch kits Bought an LUK kit and it had a valeo clutch disc. I would have thought that as INA are a premium bearing manufacturer they would use their own unless they also now make them for Gates and you got one branded for Gates . Reckon a lot of companies supply each other with parts and are rebranded to suit Alasdair

As with everything, if you know what you’re buying, you’re probably going to get a great deal. If you don’t, then sometimes it’s best to err on the side of caution. As said, the same factory can product different qualities (and, often, you’ll find that the lower quality items end up as different brands - take Hisense and LG, for example). @Cairus I meant to tag you, but clearly don’t seem to have managed it!

Is the car doing regen maybe, and constantly.

Been asked several times on here, answer is always the same - this generation of infotainment systems doesn't support a CD player or changer. You need to rip your CDs and copy the MP3 files onto an SD card.

I have a digital cockpit display in my Kodiaq. Part number 565 920 790 C It’s recently turned off mid journey and only comes back on intermittently. There’s not actually anything wrong with the display, it just won’t stay on. It’s just the screen too, the petrol and temp lights are fine, as are the warning symbols. I’m just left with a blank screen and a red warning light. After an extensive search the only solutions for a fix I’ve found are to pull fuse 17, disconnect the battery and reset the infotainment system. All 3 of those haven’t worked. I took it for a VCDS scan which showed a fault (see attached image). Has anyone else had this issue? It’s booked in to have the software / firmware updated this week as a last resort before I have to look at replacing (£2500+) Any advice appreciated

Bump to this question.

As @Breezy_Pete says it's a term that refers to the properties of the material. Most materials are linear in that they stretch as a result of a load but when that load is removed they return to Thier original length. That's termed 'elastic' deformation and is a linear relationship that can be measured and is referred to as 'Youngs Modulus'. However they also have a point at the top of that linear relationship, called a 'yield point' and if they are loaded or stretched beyond that point they don't return to thier original length and the load remains constant and doesn't increase if lengthened further until fast fracture occurs and the material breaks. This characteristic beyond the Yield point but before fracture is termed 'plastic' deformation. It's made use of in in stretch bolts to provide an accurate loading. Usually there is a slight drop in strength below the Yield point that can be felt, so if you torque a bolt to it's Yield point and beyond you feel it almost 'give' a bit. (Guess who's studied materials and fast fracture mechanics 🤣)

That's the technical term for causing a screw or bolt to stretch to the point that it doesn't return to original length when undone (elastic region is everything before that). It's actually fairly easy to feel when (if ever) this happens. You continue to turn the head but without any increase in effort like there normally is. Weird feeling. Rare on cars, even on headgasket bolts.

@lol-lol While you made some good points, I did, however, say that at the current time their decisions are indefensible. We don't have the transition to electric, and we will be dependent on other fuels for some years to come, and we have zero plan to cope. Our gas reserve and storage facility has gone, and so have all the sources we had.

@TRuFFeRS due c19 stock's outage, on my previous 220ps FWD, i had to replace rear springs and shocks separately, my subjective opinion, ~65% of stiffness improvement came from springs, which i installed few months earlier link in my signature goes to my current 280ps AWD

Hi, Yes I did, it the 1.9d and the pump on it is the Lucas 028 130 081c.

If staight of Hormuz opened next week oil prices would fall like a stone. We gave other producing areas increasing their output, African producers, Canada, USA, Venezuela etc. Calgary in Canada felt like was in Dallas ! When prices fall to $65 a barrel or less produces like US shale just stop producing and wait months or years until price bounces back above $65 or so. North Sea would act the same and hence BP, Shell no longer interested in North Sea extraction, too price sensitive when on land produces can sell at $20 a barrel and still make a profit. UK fortunate to have the best areas for wind turbines and add to that the tidal potential oil extraction just looks a bad investment due to the inherent costs of landing North Sea oil. Better to step up investments in renewables and in conjuction with nuclear and the interconnectors with those producing ultra cheap electricity that is a more secure future the very high cost North Sea oil and buying fuel from despots. As I write the nuclear, solar snd wind is so abundant in the UK the UK price of electricity is dropping from 4p per KWh to 1.5 p per KWh in the next two hours.

Just to pay back the forum for great advice and info over the years, my story is that as my service advised I had a broken top of rear spring (standard suspension 1.4TSI Estate SE technology 10 years old), with tight budget I decided to have a go myself (keen DIYer in other areas) using this forum and you tube videos (like Hey Roman). Watch for all the tools needed like long sockets or 18mm keys sockets/ spanners as they sometimes are not in standard sets. As there was some oil on shock absorber, I decided to change both springs and shock absorbers, together with spring mounting/ spring caps (rubber bits on top and bottom of spring) and new shock absorber top mounts and bump stop kit. Post here about jacking points was very helpful. I went for KYB parts from Autodoc as had difficulty to find spring exactly as my OEM code (not sure if because I have OEM towing kit). As some said the bolts are stretch type so I just bought new one (3 per side - wheel hub, shock absorber and antiroll bar) as Skoda manual advises additional degrees of rotation (like 180deg for some) after specific torque applied. Overall it went fairly smooth, the only real struggle I had to lift the lower arm with car jack after new spring in (proper car jack, not skoda one as as you lift the arm, the skoda jack will tilt risking it will slip in arm rebounding due to new spring - dangerous) to fix the first bolt at wheel hub. The lower arm flexes so I had to do one side of arm and than reposition to do the other. Also had a bit of work on one anti-roll bar bolt but using WD40 penetrant 30min before starting helped with rusty bolts. As Skoda manual says all the bolts should be torqued in wheel loaded position so remember to measure it (with full tank, spare wheel, repair kit) before start. I bought the new bolts/ nuts from Skoda as could not get it sorted quickly online. I used 2 inch pipe as extra handle on my wrench to do the extra 180deg nut turn after 70Nm torque on some bolts - without this extra lever would not be able to turn it. Top mounts came with the bolts already. One strange thing was that after lowering the car the ride height (on both sides) was higher than the wheel loaded position ( I started to worry something went wrong although all looked ok mechanically) but after driving from driveway to the road, all went back to the correct wheel loaded dimensions. Ufff. Another lesson learned - one original VAG shock absorber was shot (not rebounding at all, although car passing MOT and service), shock absorber on other side changed few years ago by what I though good family garage was GS3328R so AFAIK looking online not suitable for Superb (for Golf being lighter). Also inside one of the top mount had a lot of thick white deposit which went powdery once disturbed (aluminium corrosion?) so was happy I bought new mounts. Other thing is I saw that the steel suspension elements on the rear were fairly corroded so I took the bite and cleaned all as far as I could (took me 1.5 days under the car, with multi-tool scraper, hammer, steel brush, brush on multi-drill, hand scraper etc.) In many places the corrosion was a 0.5/1.0mm layer falling off in patches after hammer treatment ) and repainted with rust converter 2 times, now need to do the finish.

Having spent my whole working life in software development and maintenance, version control and ensuring fixes are applied first to the earliest version in use and then applied to each subsequent version in turn is a complex process that requires proper management.

It sounds to me that the ECU is commanding too high closed-throttle revs when engine is up to temperature, you need to have the vehicle scanned for any DTCs (fault codes) recorded. It could be due to a faulty sensor.