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All items available for collection from North Lowestoft Suffolk Skoda Bolero multi media stereo head unit. (CD player, MP3 playback support, and SD card slot.) Full working order. Part No: 1Z0 035 156F. £45. Silver and black main surround. Part no: 1Z0 858 069 DF Excellent condition. £25 Silver main surround. Very small scuff on front. (See 2nd from last photo). Part no: 1Z0 858069 RS £25 Bolero black stereo inset surround. Excellent condition. £8 Genuine Skoda octavia vrs Mk2 rubber boot liner. Great condition. See photos for measurements. VAG group car jack and towing eye kit. In polystyrene holder to fit in spare wheel well. Excellent condition. £40. Shell Helix 5w/30 oil and zip up case (to protect car from any leaks). Full bottle, never used. £12. Genuine skoda bonnet badge. Small scuff on surface. Part no: 1U0 853 621C. £10 Genuine skoda boot badges. Great cond. Part no. 3U0 853 621C. £10 VAG group 16 inch spare wheel and tyre. Part No: 1K0 601 027K. £50
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Yeah, I heard the other day watching an old(ish) John Oliver show. I will not miss it. I saw it live couple years ago when I was in the States and was utterly unimpressed ... far worse that in the photos, see it / touch it / sit on it ...
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Hello! Is it still possible to receive the update file?
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Try it, absolutely! You will get a feel for the different way the car behaves.
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Kristijang joined the community
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keviiow joined the community
Today
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Wife managed to get her Samsung S23 into the wireless charger with the phone base flush with the charger surface, and still in its protective case. The phone then charged slowly, but commensurate with the claimed 15 watt wireless charger rate.
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Sabri joined the community
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farny2511 joined the community
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Yep, diesels are now less reliable than petrols and cost a fortune to fix. With all the emissions systems either petrol or diesel put out virtually nothing anyway, and the taxes on them are just money making scams, or at best virtue signalling, all the time driving UK economy downhill.
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Im gone anyway. Not wasting my time here anymore.
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I suggest all involved 'wind their necks in' otherwise people may find themselves taking a short holiday.
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People like you stop people like me trying to help others. Been here before. Wind your neck in. Your triggering me now I am drawing a line now, want nothing to do with you in future.
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Says he who is doing exactly that
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Nothing special about any of it. It’s you saying it’s not possible, all doable with enough time and effort. The point is, I can get the missing features working on the car one way or another.
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I have a 2015 Seat Toledo and my engine is a 1.2TSI CBZB. I will be replacing the crankshaft sprocket when I replace the timing chain and oil pump chain. This is the double sprocket that drives both chains from the crankshaft. I have downloaded all of the relevant official procedures that I can find from the ERWIN system. I cannot see any mention of this sprocket, but I believe it is the correct thing to do to replace it at the same time; it also comes in the HEPU kit that I am buying, which indicates it should be part of the replacement. I haven't yet got the kit, as I want to add all relevant parts and tools to my order. Therefore without having the replacement sprocket in my hand, I can't see whether it has any kind of keyway to align it correctly to the crankshaft. I have watched the few videos that I can find where this part is replaced, but I can't see details of the alignment. I know it is an interference fit, and I understand how to pull it off and press the new one on, including warming up the new one to about 100 degrees to make it easier, but I am nervous about the alignment of it, and the fact that I don't have any info available in advance, as I won't want to mess this job up! Any information, experience, or photos would be appreciated. Thank you!
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What is special about that? This is not the right place to figure out who has the "longer" one—or whatever else you might be thinking. The purpose here is to have a professional discussion on the topic. And do not underestimate the competence of the other users here.
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As I’m not allowed to mention other vehicles, you will never know. You my friend have no idea who people are on here or what they may or may not be capable of. At the risk of triggering, it seemed to work on my wife’s A3 MIB 1 to 2 retrofit recently. Never came with that system and all working as if it was factory fitted. Was a right pain swapping over the illumination LEDs from white to red to match the old colours
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StuMyl joined the community
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I used to retrofit LED headlights to T6 vans, I made my own looms and used genuine sensors lights and modules. I haven’t done an MQB platform retrofit so they may only have one at the back (that’s progress if they do) so I apologise if this is the case. If it reacts by going up when the load goes down, the sensor must be upside down. Try jacking the car up, does it go down then? If it does, that confirms it. I used my beam setter to dial in the basic setting first. Ah I thought it went to word 55 or 4B for the later LED type. Point taken re other cars. What I was trying to help with regardless of system, the input changes, and he is seeing a reverse action. Something is coded wrong or the wires are crossed. If he jacks up the rear of the car and the lights now go down, he will know it’s something crossed/upside down. If it still doesn’t move has the light reached its limit cos they set the lights without placing them in the basic setting first. They may have adjusted them to its limit stop, now it physically can’t go down when the suspension is deflected. Either way it’s not working and simply trying to help regardless of the system used, the principle is similar and simple. Should be easy to sort out.
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Good advice, thanks for the info.
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I see you managed to catch the low-flying rabbit; not an easy shot!
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There isn't really a DIY reset for this. From what's been posted on here before, the Mk4 2.0 TDI has the DQ381 wet clutch DSG, and as far as I know any clutch adaptation or basic setting on it is done with a diagnostic tool, so it's a dealer (or specialist with the kit) job. The thing I'd watch is your warranty clock. Skoda UK's terms are 2 years unlimited mileage, then a third year only up to 60,000 miles, and it ends at whichever comes first. At 40k in 20 months you're doing roughly 2,000 a month, so you could hit 60k at around 30 months rather than getting the full 3 years. That gives you maybe 10 months, not 16. The terms also say a defect has to be reported to a Skoda authorised repairer as soon as it's discovered, within the warranty period. So I'd: Book it in specifically for the jerky low speed shifts (not just "have a look while it's in for a service") and ask for it to be written on the job card in your words, including when it happens (crawling in traffic, gentle downhill). Ask them to road test it with you in the car if they can't reproduce it, as low speed shift quality often doesn't show up on a quick drive. Keep the job card or email, so it's on record well before 60k even if they say "no fault found" this time. The warranty terms say any Skoda authorised repairer can do warranty work, so if your local one keeps brushing it off, it doesn't have to be them, even if the next one is a longer drive. And as it's a company car, your fleet or leasing company will want it logged before the warranty runs out too.
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morning, do you mean your email address? or are you referring to something else?
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Relayer joined the community
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Yes, Join Freedom light. Then advertise in the Wheels and tyres for sale.
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