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Sun pillar (https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/weather-watcher/44600418) Great shot BTW.

No cable. Shift by wire (fly by wire ) shifter, an ECU and a hydraulic MCU.

If someone would want to revert to flashing high beams without the fog lights, this is the coding Left front fog light: Control module 09 → Adaptation Leuchte12NL LB45: Dimmwert CD 12 → 0 Lichtfunktion C 12 → Nebellicht links Right front fog light: Control module 09 → Adaptation Leuchte13NL RB5: Dimmwert CD 13 → 0 Lichtfunktion C 13 → Nebellicht rechts

It's a meteor moments before impact. Fantastic shot. 😆

Not sure what it's known as but there was a distinct beam of sunlight straight up from where the sun had set a few moments earlier

Its a denso. This looks like mine but says from November 2018. I think my octavia was manufactured in May 28

The battery has dropped to 11.6 volts since yesterday so it definitely needs replacing but I don’t think it’s the real issue. I think the selector cable adjustment is now the prime subject of my attention. Has anyone adjusted it themselves ?

Wipers are working, the pump isn’t. When testing front and rear have power each side of the plug for the pump (1 side rear, other side front - when pull/push the stalk) I’m inclined to think the pump isn’t stuffed. Any opinions or thoughts ?

Go and try a 280 too, it does not punch like a diesel. It’s a different animal.

Hi all I'm considering ordering (via a lease/PCH agreement) a Kodiaq Sportline, to replace our 2nd car, an Audi A4 Avant that will be 3 years old in March 2027. I've seen some reasonable lease deals over 2 year term of around £1350 deposit and £443 per month for 10,000 miles a year via LeaseLoco for factory order cars for Jan/Feb 2027. 5 seater is all we need, and the primary need is to carry around 2 medium sized Labradors as well as accommodate their sizeable reinforced steel crate Preferred spec is a standard Sportline iV 204PS, either in Race Blue or Graphite Grey, and would add the Driving Assistance Plus package at £1025 for the 360 degree camera if it doesn't increase the lease payments too much. We already have a home charging point used already for my previous CUPRA Born and current ID7 Tourer company EV cars which can be used regularly by a PHEV, so I expect to see a sizeable reduction in fuel costs compared to the £150 to £200 for the petrol A4. Any real world feedback on the Kodiaq iV from anyone?

Weird. U sure it wasn't like that before the endlinks were fitted? I didn't have any change in suspension height when I fitted my Whiteline frontend links.

I think the punch of the diesel would be too much to miss. so will prob go for the higher output diesel........ Hmmm but the 280 sounds like fun too.....

Go and test drive a few also. The 220bhp maybe the one in L&K spec. The 280 models are hard to come by, plus fuel economy hurts. However on long runs because the price difference in petrol and diesel it’s actually remarkably close cost wise pence per mile in comparison. Thankfully I have both a mk2 diesel and Mk3.5 petrol

So I'm replying to this thread for the record, so that others may learn from my experiences (that's if people search efficiently!). I actually used this thread to help me. For context I changed my 1KD discs and pads over the past two weekends. They were original pads and discs for 65 plate and 83,000 miles. Based on my experiences from changing the front pair (3 or 4 years ago) I was ready for a fight. Unfortunately no photos because dirty hands and no time to waste! My research already highlighted that the facelift version (after 2017 ish) of 1KD had different "depth" of disc hub (see photos someone above posted). The 1KD pre-facelift you can remove without removing the caliper carrier. I used ATE catelogue online to narrow down discs and pads - yes I splurged out on ATE, overkill on rears but there was an offer on. I also purchased a "brake caliper repair kit TRW SP8980" (from autodoc) which came with slider pin grease sachet, piston seals, dust seal, caliper pin rubber boots. This was just in case that I found broken rubber bits. Turns out even after 11 years and 83K miles, they were all fine to reuse. But I replaced caliper pin boots because I couldn't be bothered to clean them out and it meant I could be rough with them. So this thread has already explained how to do it. My tips are: Go to town with wire brush as you are dissassembling. Rust will be everywhere and it is an excellent opportunity to inspect suspension and behind the hub. Using drill attachments makes the job much quicker but use eye protection as the wire bristles will fly off. I mostly brushed around bolts and nuts. Not aiming for a shine, just removing loose flakes and leaving the rust patina. Put more effort into the brake pad carrier guides and the wheel hub before mounting new disc on. One man brake bleed kit is about £8 from Halfords (the tube is most useful - you can use an empy milk bottle), especially when winding back the piston, no need to worry about resevoir overflowing. Also good opportunity to flush brake fluid. The caliper rewind tool made the job fairly straightforward (I used Hilka 12700140) I really can't imagine doing this with needle nose pliers. I needed spanner to start it, but afterwards you can use the tool like a fat screwdriver. The hardest bit was holding the caliper steady and making sure not to twist the rubber dust bellow and having it concertina folded correctly. I used copious amounts of brake cleaner to make it "slip" easier and to clean gunk away. Also, pay attention when it is pressed all the way in because there is no "stop" to the rewind. I was rewinding for at least 5 minutes before I realised I was at the end. The reason this took two weekends was because the old brake disc had seized strongly to the hub. I was mentally prepared for this after my experience with front pair but after 25 minutes of hammering / tapping I was scared of damaging the hub or fracturing the disc (undrivable!) so I gave in, put the new pads on so I could drive and ordered a brake disc puller for £55 from Amazon (I imagine cheaper ones are available) - I figured I would have to pay way more than that if I had to take it to a garage. Using this it takes about 5 minutes to remove disc with a satisfying "thunk". I used a bit of plywood to protect the hubcap and had to bend the metal dust shield to get the "claws" around the disc. I also recommend using some rust converter and/or protector spray after you have finished brushing and before assembly. Jenolite is popular and is available on amazon. This is an excellent time to adjust the handbrake slack, because you can see and remove the attachment to the caliper so you won't be fighting the tension (as much) as you adjust the nut. The bottom caliper slide pin screw is easy to torque (35 Nm) but the top one is harder to access unless you have a shorter torque tool or use extension to get through the suspension coil. Or you can gauge by feel after doing the first one. I used ceramic grease as anti-seize (I don't care if it's not the correct type of anti-seize, it'll be better than nothing) between the hub and the brake disc AND between the brake disc hub and the wheel. I think that's it for now, the brakes haven't bedded in but if I have a serious failure I'll be sure to report back!

Yes, I like that in the van too. I think the MK3 looks better too, but very few 4x4 3.5's about with all the goodies at a price I'm willing to pay. Looking around 19 0r 21 plate. Like the later matrix lights, but the shutter Xenon look interesting.

Need to watch out for the EGR on the diesel 3T without the emissions fix mine went about 85k and took the turbo with it. Expensive bill even at an independent.

I must admit I do like the radar cruise control. It’s a bit scary at times changes speed for no reason and slams on the brakes. The fact I can drive no feet per se, is really nice on the motorway.

The 3T is a keeper at that low mileage. You could quite easily add car play I’m sure. The occasional ULEZ charge hopefully won’t break the bank. The TSI I purchased about six months ago. Hardly done many miles, too early to say it’s a 23 plate at just under 50k. And had an approved warranty for 2 years.

Can someone advise or help? Suspension question - got my 034 Motorsport dynamic droplinks fitted by ,, mechanic,, who fitted them upside down...i know don't ask. Yesterday I've spent good three hours re-fitting them and adjusting them. Both sides equal. Car back on solid even ground to take pre-load off the sway bar. Took the car for test drive all goid, felt really tight, responsive steering so all good. Parked the car up and noticed driver's side is sitting lower than passenger side 🤔by maybe half inch. Anyway it was quite late so left it ready to start all over again but it seem to have settled. Its still lower but maybe half of what it was. Is it likely to settle further or am I better of adjusting myself?

I will know for next time. Well i won't use them at all next time

Yes absolutely agree with you. It has been dealt with by Revolut as i opened a dispute against them and revolut initiated chargeback. Autodoc has challenged it but revolut thrown it back their way. They welcome to have their parts back but on their expense. Not mine

@Evolution13 Yes, this is a completely different car

To see ones lit up look at Google Imaged. Key words Fabia MK3 low oil pressure red can. Or low oil level. Plenty weed posted showing on Fabia MK2 vRS threads.

Ill send you a pm with the link to the files.

Don't know if it's the same on the Mk4 but a rear wiper was available on the Mk3 hatch?