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The cars speedo from the Factory over reads and a slight circumference increase usually has the speed more accurate. Very few would change settings in the ECU for New Tyres with more tread and run at higher pressures or for more worn and lower pressures. various circumferences.

Does the warranty cover tyre shredding hours around the 'Ring 🤔🤣

In very recent tire review tests those All Seasons tend to get within 5% off the best premium winter tires (like Michelin Alpin 5) in various snow traction tests, or even on par in some specific aspects (like ice traction). While on the wet they're vastly superior (10-20% better in aquaplaning, breaking, handling) than winter tires. So while I'll certainly use them in the winter in the mountains in proper snow for a few weeks each year, most of the time it would be the wet conditions to worry about, and unfortunately pure winter tires aren't really that good in the wet. All seasons will be also best for me, because then I can use the summer set to be track day specific, and I already did an hour on the Nürburgring this summer, and it does have the performance to eat up tires, so this way I wouldn't need 3 sets of wheels, or joggling tires. Well, the actual point behind going 225/40 r18 would be not about some snow traction shenanigans, but rather having the same tire and wheel size for track day set, and winter set, so that rims clear the breaks, the speedo properly set once, and at the same time I can get the lightest wheels possible without breaking the bank. That's the main reason why I was thinking about it. 19 inch rims are noticeably heavier, and again, 225/40 r19 has even worse tire selection than 225/45 r18, and are also significantly more expensive for the same tire model - so not much sense to pay significantly more for a heavier rim and a heavier tire with even more inertia in a performance car. I was after the 225/40 r18 Goodyear Vector All Season 4, because they got measured at just 8.1kg each, while other tires in that size are near 9 or even 10 kg each, and 225/45 r18 ones are obviously a bit heavier still. That's a good point. And I double checked that OBD11 still doesn't have SFD2 unlock, and besides the car is under warranty, so fiddling with it could be quite consequential. I'll just got with the stock size Pirellis SF3 then. Perhaps I'll get back to this topic in two years time after the warranty runs out, and hopefully OBDEleven gets the sfd2 unlock working.

Not sure the remap type - just done by a remap/diagnostics guy at a nearby garage. I could drop him an email to ask? I always run the car on Tesco/Shell 99. Very occasionally 97, if 99 is unavailable, but never 95. Usually Tesco because it's cheaper, but Shell V-Power every couple of months or so. The warm restart 2-3 second chugging/struggling sound first occurred back in May, on the first very warm day of the year. The remap was done about 8 months prior to that.

I still reckon all flights should attract greater green levies in light of their greenhouse gas emissions. The individual motorists is too easy a target whereas airlines & airports have a powerful lobby influencing governments.

I got a “reduce oil level” warning about a month after picking up my used petrol Kodiaq, which had been serviced when I picked it up. Not sure why the oil level would increase by itself in that time . 🤔

I just uploaded the radio with this file and everything seems to be working fine! Thank you so so much 💖

Excellent advice I’ll be sure to check all of these areas the only bubbling I seem to have on arches is front drivers side but theres no doubt all 4 will be full of all sorts once I get in there and take those covers off I’m dreading it to be honest I just hope nothing needs cutting out and welding. The arms do look pretty rusty too so I will replace them If need be. In regards to the the factory plastic stone guard what do people do with it can it be removed? Would it then involve a full spray job.

The same in Latvia. I made plenty of videos proving keyless function not working but never was that enough. You know, the manufacturer says that it's quite normal that it doesn't work when there is a minor rain outside. Nobody told me that this car was usable in dry weather when i bought it, though. And when I took the car to the dealer then usually I got the answer - our technician tested the car and it was just fine. And what do I do in a situation when it works/doesn't work occasionally? What are the odds that it won't work the very moment when the technician tests the car? I made plenty of videos but usually it was never enough.

ive just ordered new coil packs so fingers crossed

@SinisterKid97 Sorry maybe missing stuff reading on a phone. But who did the Stage 1 remap, and what is it, bought generic or a custom map? Is the car running on E5 97 or 99 minimum Super Unleaded?

H

@Graham Butcher 'Experts' that are local residents reckon that Private Flights during the Grouse Shooting season or during Golf Events in the Region are a cause of increased pollution. Their answer seams to be closure of the airport. Ignoring the fact the private flights will land someplace else maybe less that 30 miles away increasing pollution there. http://thecourier.co.uk/fp/business-environment/transport/5574581/experts-dundee-air-pollution-airport

Car back from the garage. The startup chugging was nothing to do with the diverter valve, and is still present after the GFB DV+ has been swapped for a 'Rev G'. So... I'll likely live with the startup chugging and rattling until its next MOT, and get the timing chain/tensioner replaced, if there's nothing else major that needs doing. The 'Rev G' seems a bit smoother than the GFB DV+. I haven't yet driven it enough to say whether I prefer it on not - "subtly different", rather than "better/worse". The performance is still there, but it feels smoother in its power delivery now, rather than the torque/boost all arriving in one big lovely lump. And as for the lift-off/overrun jerkiness... the engine mount and upper+lower gearbox mount needed to be replaced. They said that the engine mount was 75% worn, and the others were showing signs of aging. I'd already had the lower dogbone mount/bush replaced earlier this year, so that's now all of the mounts done. Jerkiness gone and the lift-off and gear changes feel sharp again.

No you need longer bolts. The bolts contact the wheel and hub - standard thread length is 27mm. If you add a spacer between, that’s simply sandwiched between the wheel and hub, held in place by the same bolts. Because 5mm of thread is now taken up sitting in the spacer, you lose that contact length with the hub; so in order to ensure the wheels are secured to the hub with the same number of threads, you need to add at least 5mm of bolt thread length. Hence, changing from 27mm to at least 38mm. Fortunately AwesomeGTI source them and supply with the spacer (as per the pic); 20 of them (5 bolts x 4 wheels). I then bought a set of locking wheel nuts and replaced one of each of the nuts with a locking wheel bolt.

Just stumbled onto this thread. It's so very helpful as I can't stand the LCD screen with it's rubbish petrol gauge and disturbing lack of temperature display on my fabia.

Hi all, I have a 2012 Monte Carlo in red which is a current run around and cheap/cheerful replacement for a long line of Saabs. It's a work in progress with plenty of tasks (and a few mods) carried out with more to come.

I don't have the facility to re-code the battery. Unless someone near Guildford can help?

Nothing there for me

Why skimp on the coding? It's just part of replacing a battery to give it a good start in life. Electrical components are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. Your choice!!

Very well indeed. I have been constantly surprised at how good it is. You need to use the gearbox to keep revs up above 1500rpm to get good pulling power, but when you get used to being in the right gear it pulls like a train right up to max revs. Like others I was sceptical of such a small 3 cylinder engine being good enough for a car of the size of a Karoq, but you need to drive one to find out. I have had absolutely no issues with the car since buying new in December 2019 except for an MOT advisory at 3 years that all the tyres were cracking for which I managed to get a 50% goodwill payment from Bridgestone towards replacing all 4. I have no plans to replace the car and as I am in my 70's it may be the last car I ever own.

I have an old mk2 thats now off the road due to rust. Places to pay attention to are Front lower wings/wheel arches especially nearest door pillar. The plastic liner traps all manner of crud and rusts from inside out. Front of rear wheel arch nearest sill and rear wheel arch where it meets bumper. Rear tailgate around number plate. Sills in general. The plastic stone guard becomes loose and lets moisture in. Bottom of doors where they meet sills Under car as you have noticed jacking points, inner sills and floor panel nearest rear/boot. Most of the front under car is covered so not too bad. Check brake lines etc. Rear subframe on mine is very bad as well as rear and front swing arms but they are not that expensive to replace with aftermarket ones if yours are as bad as mine. I am in a high salt area so corrosion is a major problem. I tend to buy cheap higher mileage cars and run them till they die. Mechanicly they are sound but alas the dreaded rust kills them. Alasdair

Just received my drivers side rear trim today…Found someone on eBay.de who was selling some new trims…Arrived quickly with no problems. £55 posted seemed a bit easier to swallow Just wondering what’s the best adhesive to use to make sure it doesn’t come off again. The trim fits into a “rubbery” recess. Anyone else used something they can recommend?

"evilsheep": thank you very much for this detailed reply. It is extremely informative and helpful.

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