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UPDATE on my my dreadful battery performance. Took carto Skoda Northampton after a total charging failure that seemed like the 13 amp cable at fault (red light on the black box fitted to the skoda cable I use at home - normally 3 green lights.) The fault was SOFTWARE not the cable - A software update was installed - cable now worked fine - I was told it was especially to fix charging problems. History of my recent charging: 5/12/20 - Est battery only range on 100% charge - 16 miles - outside temp about 4C 7/12/20 - Est range 100% charge 16 miles - temp 0C (freezing) - NO CHANGE due to temperature - driving same as normal style 11/12/20 - FIX by SKODA - Software update 11/12/20 - Est range now 22 miles - temp 7C - Specially selected test route - almost all dual carriage way - mainly 70 mph, faily sporty driving -------------------------------actual distance totally battery only - 22 miles - NO regeneration used 12/12/20 - Est range now 25 miles - temp 8C - same specially selected test route - almost all dual carriage way - mainly 50 mph - gentle acceleration ------------------------------ actual distance totally battery only - 28 miles - NO regeneration used ---------------------------------------------this the best it's ever been I'll be doing the same test a few more times - HOWEVER it looks to me as though there is a KNOWN problem that has a fix - GO now and check yourselves

You dont even need to have it coded, just simply a key cut to open the door and turn on the ignition, that should allow the boot to be opened by the handle. I invested in a second cloned key but its not much use to me at home in my keysafe, I am loathe to hide it on the vehicle. I also like to leave my keys on/in the vehicle when I go running which is a big risk, at present they are put behind the fuel filler flap but one day the wrong person will be looking the right way. I have a solution in mind but need to wait till I get back to the UK, I am going to buy a cheap flat metal key cut to match my ignition key, no immobiliser chip, I will fabricate a discreet pocket for it behind the fuel filler flap or another hiding place, my spare coded key will be properly hidden in a really hard to find place in the vehicle. If ever I lose my keys or lock them in the boot I will use the non coded key to get in the vehicle then I can locate the spare key or get my keys from the boot. When i am running I will have to find a way to lock the keys in the car out of view in the center console, failing that I can lock them in the boot, either way nobody will see me looking furtive putting something behind the fuel filler flap. To the OP, you said that you can see the keys, you need to get a small airbag (window fitters use them) slide that into the side of the tailgate and inflate it to create a gap, then with a hook fashioned from a straightened coathanger wire get hold of the keys and manipulate them into position, with a second stiffer wire or rod you can then press the remote central locking button to unlock the doors, that is what a breakdown service operator would do.

Probably because they can't make their mind up what they're calling the coolant these days.

So I picked up our Karoq at end of November. Must say 10/10 for staff and service at Marshall’s Skoda Croydon. A very no pressure sale including an unaccompanied hour test drive and a ‘contactless’ handover during lockdown two. Didn’t think changing a car could be so easy at difficult times but they managed to make it so. Now that must state now I work in the car industry myself so I am more critical than most and know what to look out for! I work for an opposing brand too!! Having done a lot of research and swapping over from a VW we went for the 1.5TSI DSG SEL in Quartz Grey, no options as this seemed to have the most bang for buck and was due in stock within a few weeks. Two weeks in and so far very impressed. LED headlights have been superb overnight, boot has really surprised us on size and whoever thought of the blind/parcel shelf system in Czech needs a medal! Just makes sense! Car drives well and the 1.5 with DSG combo works well. Everyone has commented on how ‘premium’ it comes across. The radio/nav isn’t as user friendly as I have been used to with VAG - destination entry is a nightmare on NAV! Laura voice control doesn’t understand me at all! Radio logos are missing and can’t find a way to update them. Skoda Connect worked immediately for all but the remote locking which I had to chase the dealer to verify me. however it doesn’t ‘push notifications’ to your phone so you don’t get updates on status unless your in the app and it’s a bit slow on updating car status. Great app but needs a little work. 19’’ Alloys - look great but I really would of loved a zero cost downgrade option. They have a rubber band of a tyre on them. Quite crashy in poor London roads and speed bumps. 16s with massive tyres would be nicer in town with Kirbs but this is a personal thing! So far very happy!

Well after 2 years we finally won our case through the motoring ombudsman against my Skoda dealer.Originally I had a strange rattle on startup .l took the car into the garage twice worried it was the cam chain tensioner.l was told they were not concerned only for the tensioner to fail a month later .l had to pay.for a new engine but paid under protest.l the took the garage on through the motoring ombudsman giving them as much evidence as l could with reference to me telling the garage what l thought the problem was and loads of articles,utube videos and VW technicle bullitens. After two years the Ombudsman have found in my favour and the garage reluctantly have had to refund me for the cost of the new engine.It was a long slog but l got there eventually.

I wanted to add my experience on this topic as it might be useful for others. My issue started very much like the OP - cold air from driver's side and warm(ish) on the passenger side. Skoda Octavia MkIII, 2015. Here's my story: I first thought it would be the sensors like the OP and I tried to swap them (they're accessible on either side of the instrument panel --- if you have small hands!). Wasn't that. I read about the 'Mit Silikat' issue and saw my coolant looked very much like @centerback had in his pics: browny colour, with small bits in it. If I rubbed the bits between my fingers, they dissolved away so weren't hard lumps. I took it to my local garage and no issues seen through diagnostics (no fault codes, etc and the readings showed vent motors working fine). They flushed the system for me and that helped but not as should be - got luke warm air from both sides. I asked the garage to take the 'Mit Silikat' bag out of the expansion tank at the same time as flushing it - the bag did not seem ruptured but I presume the bits in the coolant and the browny colour was due to stuff getting out the bag. The heater matrix is located behind the centre console - I took the little trim off the side to expose the matrix pipes so I could keep an eye on them. The trim is held by one screw and just pulls down. I drove the car for a couple of weeks. Initially, the in pipe and out pipe of the heater matrix were both very hot (be careful!!) but vent air was luke warm only. So I guessed that the hot coolant was trickling through the matrix (i.e. partially blocked). After a long drive, the air went completely cool on all sides - checked the pipes: in hot, out cool. That confirmed blocked heater matrix for me. Had the heater matrix changed - around £320. About half that was the part plus some money for flush & coolant. Rest was labour. Thankfully the heater matrix can be taken out without needing to remove the whole instrument panel so only a couple of hours of labour (no charge for the diagnostics which was nice of them!). There is a video showing how to change the matrix here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ue7KP4U1xaQ. And if you search for the workshop manuals you should find they explain the same thing - see here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/461680-mk3-workshop-manual/. By the way, there are 2 different manufacturers of the heater matrix for the car (see the workshop manual). My garage were sent the wrong one first time! I did not get the expansion tank changed (should do if you want a new 'Mit Silikat' bag). I chose not to have another one of those bags - not advised but it was my choice. After that, I've had lovely hot air! Hope that helps others.

I think you need to reread what I actually wrote rather than what you think I wrote: Nobody said they are specifically Škoda parts. Škoda are now using parts made from very poor quality steel, worse than on older Skoda's (2010 and 2014 from personal experience) VWs and Audi’s, I cannot comment on the quality of newer VWs and Audi’s as I haven’t checked them. On my 2015 Superb the quality was pretty shocking, these only had 52K miles / 3 years on them: The replacement Brembo’s still look like new 2 years later, as do my wife’s 2 ½ year old Nissan discs and on my old BMW, yes there is slight wear, but they are smooth and even wear, zoom in on the photo and you will see not only have they got deep grooves, but these groove are also heavily rusted.

When electronics go wrong they let out smoke, to make them work, just put the smoke back in Lucas kit for older vehicles, not sure it'll be compatible with a VAG BCM

I didn't say but the man has to be supervised

It compares the rotation speed of each wheel so if some tyres are loosing pressures more than others, it should trigger a warning. It can't detect when all four wheels loose pressure at the same rate but that's what your monthly/weekly checks are for

Hi all, been a while but this is my car currently. But undergoing some major changes come October.

All, TL;DR Black friday discounts code at bottom. A little over 18years ago an idea formed and so it began. Now 18years is quite a good run... For anyone in the dark, briskoda, turned 18years this year Over the years we seen thousands of members post, read, learn, share. Over all models in the range, united by a common theme, if not always in agreement. Each month now we see millions of visitors, reading the rich trove of knowledge we have here. The community has grown, shunk, grown, and will always eb and flow, much like a river as it finds it's way through the countryside. The rise of social media was, and remains a concern. Many of us believe the forum approach offers more than the immediate here today, gone tomorrow of social media. But we do need you're help to keep it thriving. Post, share, spread the word, every action helps. Talking of action, climate action. Earlier this year I set about covering our ongoing carbon impact. The internet is a huge contributor to the problem, more so than driving this year We've been cabron neutral/negative for the services we host upon and consume for a few months now. I wanted to do more, carbon negative overall? This milestone seemed like a good point to do it. Looking back, it's almost impossible to say how much we've used to provide the community; we don't have a totally accurate record of trips to data centre x or y, so it's the best of british fag packet maths... I've taken what we use today, <1/2 tonne per month, still quite a bit eh? Then multiplied it back over time, then added a bit on; quite a bit on, because all those odd days here there, older it equipment was more power hungry and so on adds up... In numbers we might comprehend, it's around 250'000 miles. To that end I've offset an addititional 180tonnes of CO2 to cover our earlier years, that's 10tonnes per year, and includes some slack for driving to x and y, my laptop being on doing updates to the site at 3 or 4am the odd night... Going forward we'll be covering our continued use, so continuing to be negative, along with the tree planting programme. You can find out more about all this here: I'd like to thank the current team of admins, mods for doing what they do. I'd liek to thank former members of the volunteer force over the last 18years for doing there bit to bring us to where we are today. Thank you to all t hose who through freedom part with your own hard earned cash to support what we do here. Of course all that we do, would be for nothing without you, the community member. I thank you too, for your time, the dedication by many to sharing info and the helping others. Thank you all for being a part of, and in making this community. It's yours, you made it, each post, thread added a leaf to briskoda's tree of life. To think we've seen marriages, babies, life altering advice and support, and so much more, all from connections, people, through these few pages. Quite humbling, thank you. So it's 18years, time for a party? Heck yes. One small pandemic problem in the way. I'm begining to come up with a few ideas for next year, shows, trackday etc where we can get together in one way or another. We've all got many bridges and challenges to cross before then, so stay safe and keep in touch. In lieu of a party, I decided to make some space in the storage. So a 50% off stickers voucher code, and other stuff to clear from the shop. I guess you could say it's a black friday event... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/store/category/3-merchandise/ Discount on stickers other merchandise of 50% - code: 18years Old models t-shirts discoverd in a box - £5 ea to clear. Freedom, great value as ever from £6 per year.

Ok, On another car of mine to help in the winter I cover the lower front grill up. Done this for several years and it helps the Diesel engine warm up both quicker and get hotter. Noticed on the Fabia that the oil temperature only goes up to mid 80's C in the winter. During the summer the oil will be at mid 90's C and when being used will go above 100 C. So I thought I would do the same to the Fabia. Only problem is that my Fabia has a collision avoidance sensor in the middle of the grill. But with a piece of Perspex cut to shape, with a hole cut for the sensor, and then painted matt black:- and held in place with some cable ties. ( what did I do before there were cable ties ) the results look good:- The engine oil now gets to mid 90's C, the engine warms up quicker and the heater works even better / quicker. Result. Thanks, AG Falco

Plugs were in when I did mine. Yup.

Yup

..can't comment on the 170hp, but I currently have a 1.4 (150) tsi and it's a brilliant engine. Previous to this I had the 1.4 122 hp engine in an Octavia, and prior to that I had a 2.0ltr diesel Octavia. Both 1.4 engines are a "peach", plenty of power and torque, and very similar in "feel" to my previous 2.0ltr diesel. My current 1.4tsi seems to perform really well with plenty of torque and is also very quiet compared to the diesel. (Also returns over 40mpg if driven carefully, (AWD)). In short I would have no hesitation in recommending the 1.4Tsi....only problem is finding one? I struggled when I was looking.....

https://www.motor1.com/news/459910/mk8-golf-gti-race-ford-focus-s https://youtu.be/sOks5XgMlvw

The screen is a totally separate item, and it's usually just this that goes faulty so the head unit (in the glovebox) doesn't need replacing.The screen doesn't need any coding when replaced.

Just joined the 280 club today, picking up just before Xmas. Rather excited, have been sniffing around them for some and suddenly saw this online this morning, Had only just been dropped off by the last owner so not valeted or anything yet. Think I got her for a really good price so very happy. SEL spec with 19"s. Nice and subtle.

These days the glow plug light can represent the presence of any engine related fault. When a plug fails it will log a fault code. The crankshaft and engine speed sensors are one and the same. It lives in a little hole on the front of the engine. Oddly enough on modern VWG diesel cars it will be the engine management light that indicates a glow plug issue.

Many thanks Chris for the info. It does on higher spec models but alas not on the SE Technology model that I have. Andy

People seem to have very imaginative ideas about what the canbus communication system does like monitoring bulbs etc. It is a communication protocole between modules which reduces the need for multiple cables between switched & individual components. In the case in point when you actuate the column stalk for the rear wiper its sends a low voltage minimal current signal to the body/comfort control module located as close to the controls it interfaces with as practical, the BCM/CCM in turn sends a signal via the two wire canbus network to the corresponding module/node in the rear wiper which will then actuate the relay to power the motor at the required speed and duration. The power for the motor and the canbus node is the large conductor that I referred to and is the most practical point for you to power your reversing camera from. It is the cable that powers the motor and its canbus node, it is not controlled by canbus, it will be live all the time your ignition is on engine running or otherwise. Most nodes have multiple outputs but as each are only working part of the time only one suitably sized supply cable is required rather then every item having a seperate conductor running to the control switch on the dashboard.

Have you tried this company? Performance Car Parts & Performance Car Conversions from Balance Motorsport

It is very concerning for someone who will be changing their rather old Fabia TDI to something along the lines of this post...... i have been looking at Honda and Toyota as its these two which are the stand out manufacturers for me, i just do not like some of the interiors or styling, can't fault the reliability though.

Connect directly to the large power cable to the rear wiper, job done, - simples! And it is right beside the camera, with the earth its 2 less cables to run through the tight grommet to the hinge panel.

No last stage protection has been applied to this black MK2 Fabia vRS, just the Blackfire SRC finishing polish. Not the best beading I’ve had, but not bad for naked paintwork

Yes... see the posts just above yours. The MIB3 software does not let you add logos, and seems to rely on the ones transmitted by a minority of DAB stations.

Lubricate the remote control cables & linkage, reset the linkage while you are at it (youtube), unlikely to be gearbox oil related.

The issues were with Euro 5 emission engines. Euro 6 & 6d emission engines can have their own problems as time passes, but time has to pass before they are discovered.

The discs on all current Skodas are quite poor quality and rust VERY quickly, nothing you can do until they need changing (then fit something like Brembo which are FAR better).

That’s not completely correct as car often stops engine at junction at end of street only a minute or so after a cold start. So it will stop if coolant not up to temperature. As it is a dodgy junction I now turn the system off until I have safely pulled away from it.

Yes, new badge is straight swop. It is purely held on with adhesive pad, no pins. Replaced mine on my previous Yeti. Just gently warm the old badge with a hair drier and should come off easily. Make sure the panel is clean before sticking on the new.

Did the replacement tailgate come from the same year of car? Check the part numbers on the boot lock mechanism and see if they match, if not swap the old boot look into the new boot lid. I recently had similar issues to yourself whereby I had no boot lights nor did I have a boot open indication. Got a replacement lock mechanism from Hortons Skoda online think it was about £40. Swapped it out. Everything works fine now. Just need to remove the boot lid panels which just pull off but be gentle. If I remember correctly the lock is screwed in using 2 torx head bolts which I believe to be T30/T40. Then the wiring plug should just pull out.

I replaced this, i bought a used one that only had run 300km for 130£. Just remove the right front wheel and remove the inner fender and it's easy to reach and replace. Easy job actually.

Update on my discomfort issues with the Skoda Superb L&K seats. Continued playing with various foam pads and made some headway with that. Unfortunately I still found the drivers seat harsh and uncomfortable, certainly no good for a long journey. I visited my local Skoda dealership, where I bought the car, a couple of times over the past week to seek their advice and help with potential seat fix-it or swap-out options, a trade-in for another Skoda or even a car buy-back by them. Reaction from salesperson was fairly dismissive and following each visit I received none of the promised return phone calls with their updates and offers. I gave up chasing. When buying they are all over you, best friends and all that. Post sale if got a problem, I'm an unwanted irritant as they disappear in the mist. Final nail in the coffin for me and motivation to move on. Once the lockdown lifted I test drove a couple of Volvo S90s, BMW 520M, 640M & 730M. S90s not for me, BMWs much better. 5 Series BMW was the best model spec for me but not an M Sport. So today I paid a deposit to buy a BMW 530d SE and trade my Superb in as part of that deal. Took car for two 1 hour test drives to make sure I missed nothing this time. Drivers seat significantly more comfortable for me, has all the elec adjustments including lumbar and also adjustable headrest X & Y. I collect the car Thursday next week. Its a real shame as the Skoda Superb L&K is otherwise a great car. Thanks for all the feedback. Cheers, Roy

I think that all you can do while under warranty, is to remove the pollen filter and see if anything falls out - after that if you find nothing you really will need to suffer the inconvenience, time wasting and annoyance associated with dealing a with any main dealership.

I sometimes use the Bose when I'm in a noisy hotel (when did people start to forget the good manners of being QUIET! when walking about in the corridors and turning the tvs DOWN! in their bedrooms?????) and just switch the cans on without connecting them to anything. The noise-cancelling lasts about 2 hours before auto shut down through lack of signal occurs. There is the usual low level hiss from the noise-cancelling circuitry, but that's pretty normal and unobtrusive.

Actually it was a man and a woman packing it

An update on the Radio Logo problem with MIB3 systems (where this thread started). I had a chat with Skoda UK on the Twitter feed, and was passed on to their multi-media specialist. He phoned me and confirmed all the details with me of the stations that didn't have logos, and promised to investigate for me. He phoned again yesterday to say he'd contacted his technical support, who were still stuck in the past, telling him how you add logos with an SD card for a MIB2 system! He pointed out to them that this information was now out of date, as the factory were installing MIB3 systems. (Which despite them being fitted to Kamiqs etc for months seemed to surprise them!) I reminded him this was a VAG-wide problem as I've seen complaints in SEAT and VW forums as well. He agreed it was embarrassing, and said he'd have to visit a dealer to see a MY21 car as he did not have access to one any other way. But the upshot is that he'll be pressing for either an online update to the radio logo database, or the MIB3 infotainment systems - or to one that will have to be installed at a dealers if it is too big to provide online. Normally he spends his time trying to resolve Connect issues (another half-baked solution that has no end of problems of course), so he was quite eager to move on to investigating a different problem. Time will tell how successful he'll be though Chris

The problem is the car moves after taking your foot off the brake. This is when the pressure is applied.

Damn Xman - you are right. I have also had my battles with my own dealer, but they do see things my way eventually. In regards to OP; this car has only done 30k miles....I personally think very unlucky for this to go wrong. It sounds as though it may have been a control logic board gone wrong. My own clutch experience was oddly enough at ~exactly~ the same mileage (admitely on a manual gearbox, but it was clutch related). It seems that this is still an occassional issue of logic boards failing. I am assuming that the dealer sold the vehicle as a used/approved? So - it had the remainder of the warranty and has a full Skoda service history? Usually, you canny buy an extended warrranty from Skoda if the old one has run out (although they maybe leaway on this) and the whole question about if you did buy an extended warranty, would they cover an existing fault (probably not). So - if the OP goes for a repair at around £700; the premis is that it may or may not break. However, you are in the realm of good-wills with Skoda. Spending out on that kind of money means that Skoda should smile on you well if something else happens; I am a believer of good will here. The repair will be logged on the electronic service record, so Skoda should smile favourably on any further warranty claims. However, think the OP should go to a different Skoda dealer to get a second opinion too.

The lack of further warranty is down to the offer being 100% on the parts. They don't offer warranty on the labour. You could offer to pay your £700 towards the parts cost and they cover the labour 100%. That way you would still pay the same but you would receive 2 years cover on the parts. That is your best outcome I think. Yes you are £700 (+expenses) down, but they are under no obligation to pay anything at all as the part out of warranty. SUK have selected 3 years/60k as their warranty period as a balance of parts life, customer expectation, sales leverage.

I've seen the HHA subject come up in my searches but haven't found an answer, threads always get mixed up with DSG and/or electronic handbrake users. To put it plainly, I don't like or need HHA and want it gone. I know how to do handbrake hill starts, but was 'raised' on the normal brakes method and am competent enough to rely on it exclusively. The problem I'm having is that HHA isn't disengaging as fast as my feet move, so the car just sits there for a few seconds before moving off with a groan once HHA catches up. From my testing HHA can be made to let go immediately with a certain degree of throttle, so it's mostly a non-issue on steeper hills. The problem is with minor gradients and/or low speed maneuvers, where very little or even no throttle is required. Unfortunately for me, my driveway, work carpark and the local shops carpark all share this feature. Multiple times a day I'm stuck either waiting...waiting...waiting....*groan* and away, or revving the engine like a learner in their first manual. So, does anyone know if the HHA be disabled (via VCDS or otherwise) in a manual with the conventional handbrake? Failing that, can it at least be adjusted to be less intrusive? Eg- letting go as soon as the clutch is raised, or being set to an unrealistic angle threshold so that it never intervenes? Thanks in advance

I also have a 1.4TSI and find the HHA a PITA. Why? After stopping on a slope if you pull on the handbrake to what appears to be sufficient then a few seconds later HHA releases and the car can start rolling so I sometimes need to pull the handbrake further on - without HHA I would have got the handbrake sufficiently applied in one move not two.

It seems like it is dropping a cylinder like a misfire or timing issue, but as there is no spark it ain’t timing issue. Juddering was not the best discription I could of given you. It’s like there is hardly any power in high gear. Sometimes it is really severe and the whole car is shaking under acceleration other times it is hardly noticeable.

Yep, I also took this as que to replace my 12v. No other symptoms what so ever. Changed at around 6.5 years. I expect it can do another year or so without S&S but it could struggle to start the car on morning of a cold snap when I need it the most. Much better to have early warning with this S&S symptom. Thanks to the early warning symptom, I got slightly higher spec Varta AGM for just over £110, fitted it myself. It pays to have the luxury to plan for purchases and wait for deals. I guess moral of my story, don't disable S&S. It not only saves fuel (thus money), reduces harmful emissions, it also gives early warning of possible weakening 12v battery.

We have something in common. Met my lovely wife in May 2002 and we married the following year so 2002 is a very special year for us. My actual Birthday is tomorrow so we will celebrate that and toast Briskoda to another 18 years and Colin I hope your partner's health improves and we will say a special prayer for her. Mr and Mrs Shy.

I'll raise a glass to that. Thanks Colin, and team of volunteers, for helping to make this place rather special.

I'm still on the original battery after over 5 years, start/stop left active.

Hi. I know its a long shot but do you still have any parts for the vents. I am missing 1 small piece. Thanks