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I wonder where you may have gone 🤣 I also had @David55over to add the OEM rear camera with washer and rear door puddle lights. Same coding fun on both cars

@Evil - Well, I'd start by cleaning the door drains, which are invisible unless you open a door and stick your head under it from between the door and its frame. It may not be the right solution, but it is free.

Been a busy day at Sasha Towers, had @CaptainPukein for Travel Assist pack retrofit (car had TSR only so I have added HBA, Lane Assist and Traffic Jam Assist) as well as my usual glut of extra coding and then rounded the day off by fitting my air intake blank plate and cut the blanked off section to open it up like an aftermarket system which should give you about an extra 9 cfm of airflow and it gave me something to do for 30 mins 😆 An extra piece of coding I have been made aware of by @langers2k, on my Superb with the 2Q0 Lane Assist camera you can change the ferocity of the Lane Assist and set a little vibration in the steering wheel to nudge you and if you like Lane Assist it’s a cool feature. I can now add this to any 3GD 980 654 A5 camera. This is demonstrated on @varaderoguy’s lovely Scout on which I fitted the 4G LTE antenna, rear USB loom and OEM LED floor lights. For those who like to code at home, the Lane Assist fun is A5 Long Coding Byte 13 change to Hex 56 A5 Adaptations Warning Intensity: Lane Departure Warning - Selection over Menu. This is for MY18 and 19 cars only. All working perfectly 🙂

Our Octavia was collected last Tuesday two weeks after placing the order. So far all is well. The tyres are relatively low-profile (225 45 R18) but the suspension design gives a limousine ride. Very quiet in both hybrid and e-drive, but the pedestrian warning 'squeak' is not very obvious. Fuel consumption is excellent: on a 29-mile drive it returned 104 mpg, on a 76-mile drive when the battery was down to 2% at the end it returned 91mpg. A 16-mile drive using battery alone used 60% of the battery power at a cost of £1.30. I'm changing to Octopus Go energy, once we have a SMETS2 smart meter, so I can charge between 00:30 and 4:30 at an off-peak rate of 5p per kWhr, so a 2/3 full battery would give around 20 miles for 65p. It charges using a 13-amp socket, but before ordering it and realising it could be charged without a wall box, I made enquiries and was annoyed on behalf of owners with bigger charge requirements that the grant is now only available if the vehicle can travel for at least 70 miles without any emissions. The many menus are logical and though during handover it made my head spin, a couple of hours ploughing through the options made it all clear. MySkoda works well, but it was a pain to set up. Only when I uninstalled and reinstalled the App did it work properly. It's much more useful than Skoda Connect in our Karoq, which I used once, because I can control charging and pre-heating the car from inside the house. Regenerative braking is also useful as I have it set to maximum, which as well as charging the battery, hold the car back on hills so a little interplay between accelerator and brake holds the corrrect speed, whilst approaching junctions the brakes are hardly required. Very pleased so far, particularly as we live in a very hilly part of the UK. Based on brimming the tank and keeping a spread sheet, our Karoq averaged only 31 mpg during the time we kept it, so all local motoring will now be pure electric.

Hi Sasha Grace. that's very encouraging - although I'm somewhat disappointed that your OH has no issues getting comfortable as I was quite liking the extra pies suggestion

Took my 2019 sportline plus 272 4x4 for some coding mods this morning including lane assist and traffic sign recognition in addition to many more!!! Loving the new toys!!

Came across some impressive weather heading over the Woodhead earlier🌧️

A bit of googling earlier suggests that the EA288 software has a 'temperature window' within which the emissions equipment operates fully, and this approach may have been judged as not acceptable within the rules. So I suspect the change is to broaden the range of ambient temperatures within which it operates properly, to whatever is deemed OK by the powers that be. Legal profession will be the main winners I suspect. What does the small print say about what proportion of winnings any claimant will get versus what the lawyers keep? Does it even say?

Unconvinced. Sounds like the automotive equivalent of money-for-nothing culture and ambulance chasing to me. Any future VW settlement should go directly to the Govt to help pay for green initiatives rather than the lumpen mass of taxpayers who aren't in the top 10% of earner bracket. 99% of diesel drivers' prime objective is to save money, not the planet. Witness the many TDI remaps and the extra pollution produced.

Like JR RS Ivan and others I have replaced the space saver on my Sportline 4x4 with a full sized 235/40/19 spare. Not having a dremel to trim the plastic edge, it does still fit snugly by inserting/lifting the furthest edge of the tyre first when removing/replacing. I had to trim the foam toolholder a fair bit with a long bladed knife so it didn't sit above the tyre edge. I had a flat recently and when placing the tyre back in the boot I knocked and broke the plastic securing thread (the key section at the base sheared off). I ordered a replacement (A$26) but was there was no noticeable movement or noise from the unsecured tyre during this period, likely due to the snug fit. @Newbie69 on mine the key on the mounting screw fits into a raised/domed sheetmetal fitting which sits proud of the boot floor, yours may be the same but I can't tell from your pic. Here is a crappy pic of mine and yes i couldn't be bothered to remove the tyre this time.

Step 1. Install the free VW Pre Compiled Database located on the download section of this site to your PC: https://free-speed-cam-updates.web2diz.net/ Step 2. Unzip/extract the files on your PC and copy the contents of the resulting folder onto a SD card. ( Important points to note: Only copy the contents of the main folder i.e. Do not copy the resulting extracted folder named Volkswagen PersonalPOI - just copy the contents that are displayed inside that folder which is a folder named PersonalPOI and a metainfo2.txt file. Delete the readme.txt file as well as that is unnecessary. Also further note that despite trying to use 2 different usb sticks unsuccessfully only an sd card would work for me. I used the sd card which contains my music files but remember to delete the copied files off afterwards as sometimes they may prevent your music from playing and they are no longer required as they have been copied to the internal memory of the Amundsen ). Step 3. Using the "manage memory option" of the nav settings upgrade the software. Step 4. In the "map" settings chose poi categories, scroll to the bottom and the newly added items should be displayed there. Tick these to activate them. Step 5. In the "nav announcement" settings of the nav settings make sure that there is a tick in the "My POI" item. This enables an audible speedcam alert. To sum up - it's pretty easy to do and it's free and there are monthly updates on the site. On the downside - I'm not sure how reliable and up to date the database is as I've already had to manually edit and remove an out of date camera from my location. IMO the audible alert is a bit feeble and can't be changed but it's better than nothing. I'm not too fussed on the camera icons either. I hope this post is of help to others and I would like to thank the contributors of the other threads regarding this topic on this forum from whom I have gained my insight. I have compiled my own version with my preferred choice of speedcam icons limited to UK fixed cameras and traffic light cameras using the VW database on the above site which I've attached below to share if anyone wants them. Remember to only copy the files as per the above instructions. My Uk Speedcams.zip

And onto the next Bike/Project As some of you know I have just sold my 2020 BMW S1000R Sport last Week and have been scouring the Used Bike Market for something no replace it with, I had a shortlist of about 10 Bikes all differing in age and style of Bike. I had a 1999 Honda Fireblade a few Years back and always promised myself a 2006/2007 Model if the right example popped up and in the Red/Black Colour Scheme. In my opinion these are one of the best looking Fireblades with the Underseat Exhaust and Upside Down Forks, The Styling changed post 2008 and I have never been much of a fan of those later Bikes. Well last night the stars aligned and the right Bike in the right Colour located at a Dealership I know very well came up. Spotted the advert during my Break last night, Finished my Afternoon shift at 1am and drove up to Leeds this morning for when they opened as I have missed out on Bikes like this in the past so wasn't going to let it happen this time. Did all my usual poking around and for a 15 Year old Bike it has the usual very minor age related marks here and there but it really is superb and I had to remind myself of its age when I was been hypercritical. I decided I was having it and got the Deal I was happy with, The Bike is getting a Interim Service including Oil & Filter, Spark Plugs, Brake Fluids. They are removing the Datatool Alarm as they are a PITA and I hate them, They are Delivering the Bike and knocked £200 off the price. Happy Days! Comes at some point next Week so will be going straight into the Garage for some usual Bonelorry treatment. The Bike... 2006 Honda CBR1000RR-6 Fireblade, Last of the Lightweights 176KG/170BHP. No Electronics, No Rider Aids etc. 11300 Miles 4 Previous Owners Very good Service History with about 8 Stamps Has a few really nice extra's too Akrapovic Carbon Can with Titanium Link Pipe £700 Worth Genuine Colour Coded Rear Pillion Seat Cover Genuine Honda Tank Protector R&G Aero Frame Protectors Powerbronze Screen Rear Paddock Stand Bobbins Future Plans... The Bike is already very well prepared and is a credit to its previous owners but I want to go through it all. I want to replace the Front Screen for an MRA or something like that, The Powerbronze one fitted is showing its age. Replace the Paddock Stand Bobbins for some Evotech Items. Other than that just leave it alone and enjoy it, Obviously it will be for Summer use only and on a limited Mileage basis but I am planning on getting a Second Bike of similar age but that offers a totally different riding experience to keep my options open but we shall see. Couple of Dealership Images, Will post some fresh ones when I get the Bike...

It's 4 Torx screws, can't remember which size though.

I removed the whole glove box, there are 3/4 screws inside and 3 screws underneath. I also disconnected the pipe feeding air into the glovebox and the cable attached to the guiding mechanism, however I didn’t disconnect the airbag cable. The soft close motor works as it did previously, maybe try reattaching the trim and see if that makes a difference. I assume the trim may provide some cushioning/sound deadening. Sorry not sure what to suggest.

I don't agree with this conclusion as a GENERAL rule. Since you found the mechanical pump to be faulty, open it. You'll find the problem in the photo below. You'll understand what is wrong. It is OK having low pressure otherwise high pressure would overcome the float needle valve and flood the engine. It has another advantage too. If the pump starts once the ignition key switch is set to on, the float chamber will be primed (filled with fuel) before cranking the engine. Usually the fuel evaporates from the float chamber if the car was not used for a while, especially on hot days. That leads to long cranking times from fuel starvation.

@e-Roottoot appreciate your replies so far. I may keep it after 4 years but it depends how the car performs over that time I suppose, I’d like to treat it as if I am keeping it

Agreed. Also @D.FYLAKTOS I strongly suspect that if you want a duct that far back on the bonnet to reduce underbonnet temperature, it would need to point the other way and extract air from the engine compartment. The reason the scoop on the Mustang works is that it's over the air intake, and also not over the HT electrics.

It is a Skoda RS not a Porsche RS, a cooking family car with nothing particularly special engine / power wise. There is obviously Long Life oil. The VW508 00 / 509 00 0w20 FS IV that the cars get filled at from the factory. They do oil to VW502 00 if anyone wants to do Fixed Servicing and not use 'Long Life' oil which can be used for either fixed or flexible. A 9,400 mile (10,000) mile Oil change is perfectly fine in the UK, even a 20,000 mile one. Changing oil @ 10,000 km / 6,217 miles is just silly for a road car in the UK.

Plastic impellors have been around for a very long time, now many vehicles have plastic pump casings as well & that in itself is not a problem at all, VAG have problems with a solenoid operated impellor shroud that enables the vehicle to warm upmuch quicker and the system works remarkably well until the shroud sticks & then it becomes a chocolate teapot. I dont think the problem is due to the extensive use of plastics, more the inevitable complication and reliability issues in chasing emissions targets.

Its been over 40 years since I changed a vehicles polarity but I have a dim memory of having to "flash" the starter terminal although it may have been the dynamo, maybe some rewiring of the voltage control unit, come to think of it I think it was that which was "flashed" and now I am pondering if the starter solenoid will throw in the right direction?

In my opinion this hood scoop will not give you any advantage. It won't bring air to the engine to cool it, it will just bring air to the filter box which I find useless. In other words I think it is made just to contribute to the look of the car.

The most common cause of black smoke is a bad remap.

Skodas are made out of cake, marzipan, jelly and icing.... here's one being built in the Skoda factory. Simply not so clever

It could be seals, door cards, window strips or all 3. Here’s a recent topic about it all.

MP3 files are compressed to reduce the file size, this can result in a slightly reduced sound fidelity: not normally noticed in a car. Flac files are uncompressed and lossless. This gives a sound that is exactly as it is on the CD.

I replaced in my 2017 the tire fix kit moulding with a full spare wheel as well. The wheel almost fit but not quite and it was raised a few cms so got an old hard boot floor from an Audi (don't remember exact model and screwed some wood with some fabric material from another spare boot floor. I used the screw bit from pictures above and a 16 inch wheel foam moulding which is way smaller but it's doing its job. This is the final result which the added bonus of being able to carry some groceries bags without moving around. All parts were used from random scraps someone gave to me (they are taking cars apart to sell them) so it was pretty much free except the wheel itself.

Oooops Slip of the 0000s 208k miles, and still going strong.

If you use a sensible sized brush and have not enlisted a 5 year old to do the painting you should be able to paint the bit inbetween the caliper no bother.

Brilliant I'll sleep better now, dont know why it suddenly occurred to me after having the car nearly three years...

Will make a minuscule difference but it mostly just gave me something to do haha 😆

I have a SanDisk Ultra 200 GB microSDXC Memory Card and have had no issues with it

Yep, reading the units off the wrong side

I had this on my son's polo and I got new clips and made big washers out of the metal lids off of pasta sauce jars and put them on and secured them with the new clips.

Did a bit more on the Fireblade yesterday Afternoon after work, Went through the rest of the Bike... : Removed RHS Rearset & Pillion Footpegs, Stripped, Fully Degreased and re-assembled. : Replaced the Front Brake Pads as they where around 60% Worn, Rear Brake Pads are like New and are Sinters. Went for some EBC HH Sinters which I won on ebay. They where bought in error by someone and I paid 50% of what they normally sell for. Happy days. : Brake Calipers & Pins degreased, Cleaned, Pistons pushed back by hand. : Lower Fairings Degreased, Cleaned and Hand Polished. : Re-Aligned the Exhaust, It was slightly off centre as can be seen in my pictures earlier in this Thread. Cleaned the Carbon Fibre and Titanium Link Pipe. : All Plastics/Fairings and Tank Hand Polished, Touched up a few Small Chips here and there. : Noticed a Bolt Head Cover/Cap was missing just below the Seat, Popped onto Fowlers to look at the exploded view of the Parts and found a Genuine Honda item for £2.80. Couple of pictures... Missing Cap/Cover...

Apparently there are two types of spare wheel kit mouldings. The smaller one as in JR's car and the bigger one as in Ivan's. When I look up the type for mine in some websites it shows the larger one with the protruding arms: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3v0093860c-spare-wheel-replacement-kit-skoda-40305.html According to Ivan, that type cannot fit inside a 18" wheel (that's the size of my winters) without trimming. Maybe the removal of the plastic bit JR shows here is needed too nonetheless. HOWEVER! I notice in the picture that the plastic securing screw comes as part of the kit, which implies it is not meant to be integrated in the chassis. Furthermore, zooming in you can see that the bottom end of the screw has a flat extension which seems to match the cut in my wheel well. It looks like you introduce it and turn it 90 degrees to secure: So I'm guessing it possible to do a full retro-fit in the end, mounting screw included.

If you've confirmed there is no power to the door controllers, I'd suggest running a temporary fused supply to them. While it's connected see if you can communicate with them using VCDS. Assuming that works, you've found your problem and either need to find the break in the power supply or run a replacement. Just looked at the owners manual for your VIN here which suggests fuse 14, 23 and 32 are door related. Official source for wiring diagrams is https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do it's a pay per timeslot service but an hour should be fine. Use a 'print to pdf' function or similar so you can check the WD in your own time and save printing everything out

I was sure I would not like the new Fabia - Infotainment too complicated, too intrusive ‘assistance’ systems etc, etc. I was sure I was going to go for a new Mk3 Estate for my new 22 plate car. However I have been very impressed with what I have seen so far and I will therefore wait and see what Skoda UK offer us before deciding. I was able to capture a a screenshot that shows the dimensions of Mk3 vs Mk4. Note that, while the body is wider, the mirror to mirror dimension is smaller - if correct that will help getting the car into the garage. The other pictures show the Graphite Grey which I really like. Having looked at the Kamiq and Scala forums and their SE spec sheets I wonder if the SE spec Fabia Mk4 might be the sweet spot for me. The SE will have the Bolero unit which is more user friendly I think. If the lane assist is easy to switch off, the Fabia SE might just be a good compromise. It will be good to get a test drive to check that out.

The General Public including non car drivers are the ones that suffer from vehicles Emissions, and the value of used TDI's is pretty high and certainly not suffering from depreciation because of the Emissions Cheat VW Group had on vehicles. Maybe give a cash donation to the Heart & Lung type charities from the saving you had on low VED and good fuel consumption you got with your TDI's.

Good advice. Use engine braking - which will avoid hot brakes and also cool the engine.

It should be ok if you take e-Roottoot's advice and be sure to check the car is serviced, etc. They are built to carry up to 5 people so 4 should be ok if you are driving properly. A modern 1.2 will be equivalent to a 20 years ago 2L car and you wouldn't have worried about that doing the job, I doubt. Drive properly, don't thrash it and don't ride the clutch or keep braking all the way down hill, use lower gears instead, so as to not suffer brake fade and you should be good to go.

https://www.carscoops.com/2021/05/2023-skoda-fabia-combi-previewed-in-unofficial-illustration/ Great to have this addition

Today bootlid spoiler and rear windscreen spoiler. Have to clean off the residue the holding tape left

I see your Sportline Plus and raise you one in the sunshine, awesome colour

Collecting this on Saturday. Sportline plus.

Heres one from me as well

Some splitter (Rieger) action on Gandalf....

Fair enough. We get them as standard here in Oz. We don't get the L&K model here. We get "mutant" versions here. Mine is MY17.

Newbie Superb iV owner here of only two weeks.... After a Fabia vRS, three 170hp diesel Yetis (the last one with a Shark Performance remap) and a Citigo Monte Carlo it was time to change. I bought the Citigo as my yearning for mechanical sympathy meant my commute that went from 30 miles each way to 4.5 just wasn't an option for a big diesel so the Yeti was retained for the longer journeys. I had thought of leasing an Enyaq and the figures just about worked (many, many spreadsheets of justification) but the final straw was the HM Gov changes with the EV grant so it was back to my pre-Enyaq thinking of a Superb iV. I've always liked the Superb and especially the Mk 3, something clicked when I went to Allams open evening for the Kodiaq and there was Jeff Allam's black Superb Sportline in the showroom. The seed was sown. So, another few spreadsheets later of what ex-demo Superb iVs were about let me to Caffyns of Tunbridge Wells who had a 6 month old, 4400 mile Velvet Red example for sale. This one is a Sportline Plus with heated screen and reversing camera. It's also got various options such as traffic sign recognition and blind spot warning, so quite well spec'd. I liked pretty much all of the colours but the Velvet Red (like many Skoda colours) is something else when the sun comes out. Seats are great and alcantara so no need for the heater on all the time! Now about the lack of postcode input into the satnav.... Incidentally, I looked briefly at an Octavia vRS iV but was slightly wary of the current software etc issues and the Superb iV has similar genes to my sister in law's Golf GTE and is pretty well proven. The insurance for the Superb is 30% less than the Octavia vRS. A deal was struck with Caffyns which is around 29% of list. The car was trailered to me (120 miles) and my two taken away in part ex. The deal was fine, the car needed a good polish (which it has now had!) and there are a couple of minor dents in the roof that Caffyns will remove next week FOC (golf tees in a door pocket may be a clue to the dents...). Dashcams fitted and a bumper protector. Oh, and the Vegas will be the winter wheels - there's a set of Supernovas going on when I nip down to Caffyns.... I've only driven 300 miles or so to date but it is brilliant and slightly overwhelming trying to suss out what it is doing and what I think I need to be doing.... I'm used to 'glass cockpits' in light aircraft but the sheer number of variations in the Virtual Cockpit means you'll never get bored on a journey! On a trip I do regularly (105 miles there and then back again) there's a mix of 10 miles of town driving and 95 miles of dual carriageway in the middle. I stayed in electric mode for the town bits, then 'sport' hybrid for the main drive but sat at 65 mph or so. The final electric range said 12 miles so at 10 to go, I went to that and still ended up with 6 left. Game to play will be getting it closer to zero when I get home. Charging to date has been via the 13 amp plug - also on Octopus Go with an EO Mini 2 being installed next week through Octopus. Last night I charged from 2330 hrs at 20% (4 mile range) and it was up to 100% by 0630 hrs MySKODA app showed 24 miles of range but when I set off that went to 26 miles. Cost for that charge on the smartmeter was £1. Me thinks my fuel consumption/cost spreadsheet I had for the Yeti and Citigo is going to be a bit more complex.... Fun times to be had, I'm sure but suffice to say, so far, I am delighted with it.

The two links are for the MK2. However, the two methods mentioned, (changing card CID or hacked firmware) are both valid for the MK3. How did you have component protection and the features enabled on your Amundsen? If it was a dealer, you might find satnav won't work as your cars VIN doesn't have entitlement for satnav... Can you confirm if you're using a genuine Skoda/VW SD card?