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I finally got back out on my bike after months of going no further than a mile or 2. I had issues with my artificial legs and could not get repairs carried out. Now sorted out and ready for getting back into the daily habit of biking regardless of the weather. It was cool and dry this morning so fine to see how I would feel. Only 10 miles done with full assistance but I will stick to that for distance daily this week until I see how my back, knee and heart 💖 gets on. Then i will reduce assistance while sticking to the same length of ride and then go out twice then 3 times a day until back covering longer distances on single rides.

I had 3 punctures on my L&K and it warned me of all 3. Yes it's a pretty crude system... but it works.

Having difficulties to upload pics. But heres one of the wheel.

Just get the garage to replace the coil pack on the misfiring cylinder and keep an eye on your spark plugs next time, allowing them to wear out is what's killed that coil pack.

Swap the red and yellow wires round, one is switched live the other is permanent live.

Is it the intermittent noise that comes & goes in the video then gets worse & becomes a screeching? If so then its the alternator pulley one way sprag clutch. Don't let the mechanic tear down the timing belt without checking that first, get him to run the engine with the auxiliary belt removed, you pight be able to get the noise to come & go or change frequency by switching on and off heavy electrical loads like the heated screen.

Looks like 3B0973702 is the housing part number, but ebay results aren't as helpful as I predicted. A few used ones with only short wires. De-pinning your existing one, and inserting some repair wires may be the way to go. I think the part number for a 500mm double ended repair wires is 000979131EA e.g. Audi VW Skoda Seat Repair Pipe 000979131ea (selectively GILT) | eBay Cut that in half and just be careful to mimic the existing pinout polarity. May be cheaper and quicker to buy from a TPS or dealer locally.

There will usually be a VW group part number on the connector housing. It may take magnification to be able to read it, but if you can, stick that number into the ebay search box and usually you will get results for both bare connector kits (housing plus crimp inserts, plus seals where applicable) and pre-wired connectors. If you can, buy the prewired and splice that into the existing loom beyond the 'bending area'.

Did you stop filling at the first click off point? If you continued to brim the fuel tank lots, i.e. grossly overfill it, then its possible/likely that the EVAP system and its carbon canister have been flooded. That will put the EPC light on as the vapour recovery system is compromised and cannot function properly. If you're lucky, the carbon canister will dry out, the EPC light will go out and all will be well. If you're unlucky, you could be looking at an expensive repair.

Slowly but steady getting the car how I want it to be. Some OEM+ parts still waiting in the basement for time to install them. Now sitting on 9*20 et41 Bentley Continental Mulliner Phase 2 wheels with 245/35/20 Pirelli Pzero tires (Narrow, round edges, wheel protection and soft tire) and Eibach Pro lowering springs.

The issue with the Dealership is that a Tech should be trained. If a Skoda Dealership then someone needs to be familiar with Plug In vehicles, they are going to sell them and be servicing them. A PDI had to be done on the car and that involves having the battery charged. Checking the charging, & someone signed the car off as checked.

Many thanks. I didn’t know this. It begs the question, what’s the point of the eco mode then? Btw, I’ve got a 1.5 TSI DRG. Had it six months, done about 3000 miles and am very pleased with it.

the problem here was a garage had ****ed the rubber top hat o ring that went into the master cylinder, had to take the whole system apart to find a chunk missing out of the seal, new one installed and was all good, had a horrible clutch for 3 years thanks to them , that was the last time i let anyone else work on my car and it was in 2017 when i had a new clutch and master cylinder put in in the dead of winter. lesson to everyone buy a load of tools and dont look back

After seeing so many people doing it the wrong way, I decided to make my own video

Mine was the same, sealer cracks along the roof join. Common fault I think.

Mines an estate with a Westfalia detachable. Fitted by an independent who (if you read the forums) did everything wrong - bypass, no coding etc. However, the caravan gets to the destination without falling off and the indicators work.... 😀 For info I had no intention of towing a caravan at the time of ordering / buying the car. I ordered it in manual purposely because, whilst I do like automatics, I'm not a fan of the DSGs. The potential repair costs also put me off, but when serviced properly they should be reliable. The clutch has survived a ridiculous hill start with the caravan on the back. One off temporary lights on a 16% hill near Pateley Bridge and it took what seemed like an age to engage and pull away. But overall up to now, towing is no problem for the manual transmission. Solo, the suspension is acceptable in my opinion. Its the 19" wheel / tyre combo that compromises the ride, but it's not harsh. Forgot to mention the fuel economy whilst towing: 16 to 25mpg depending on conditions and your right foot! It just takes all the abuse we throw at it - my occasional spirited driving, the caravan, 2 young boys in the back, bikes, tip runs, B&Q runs, several solo France Holidays. Its a remarkable car.

Neither which is what has been as much of a surprise. Just that not seeing the actual pressure reading leaves a doubt about the operation of the system

Mk3 Superbs have tyre pressure loss monitoring using wheel speed monitoring as standard. It will not tell you the tyre pressures only detect if you have lost pressure in an individual wheel. Which is good enough for 99% of people.

If you can find one; a Scout TDI 184 4x4 would be a good bet for luggage, towing and general ability. Have a look at these on Autotrader. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-search?sort=relevance&make=SKODA&model=OCTAVIA&aggregatedTrim=Scout&include-delivery-option=on&year-from=2018&max-engine-power=200

E root...The battery was flat on Red and mileage was 10 miles which was on the factory invoice.. David, brilliant very helpful finding that page also Jim I will set it as you suggest thank you.. I will go for a rest drive tomorrow and test it out thank you so much for the help...Its a lovely car...

Does the owners manual specifically prohibit connecting a charger via the boot socket? I would expect it to forbid connecting directly to the battery posts, but you wouldn't be doing so by charging via the boot socket, I suspect.

That's not you trying to walk on water in the first piccie, then? Seriously, though, glad to see you're able to get out and about again - and I'm envious of the scenery!

That seems like the easiest way to confirm one way or the other. Seems like a crazy design for the 12V battery not to get at least trickle charged when the car is plugged in, but I suppose there may be a valid reason for not doing so.

Thanks @CookieMonster87 and yes you're right - I do have black badges, all bought from Kopacek. Well, you mention the grille badge, that's the only one I didn't buy - I actually made it myself on mine just by sticking some hand-cut bits of red vinyl onto the original silver grille badge, as I thought making the silver black might make it look a bit too lost on the black grille... Still can't believe how much difference those teeny tiny bits of vinyl make to the overall look of the car. Goes lovely with the callipers ...

You ask if you should go for a petrol vRS... That's what I tow 1420kg with and I suppose the firmer, lower suspension and lower profile tyres would add to stability over the standard Octavia. It tows the van very well - obviously it has power and torque in reserve at all times! I've had a few jockey wheel strikes but only when the boot is fully loaded and I've not judged the speedbump or dip in time.

For 7Jx17” rims, the correct tyre should be 225/45 R17 91W. As for the tyre brand and model, everyone will have their own opinion and it'll depend on your driving style... I expect any decent branded tyres will be fine. As you're in the North, you might want to consider all-season tyres such as crossclimates. You'll lose some Summer performance but they'll be better in Winter

In my case, as the owner of the Leon, I declared the remap with both seat UK finance and with the UK tech department. I also didn't try to hide it from the local dealer.

One of the pulleys/water pump on the cam belt seizing? When were they last changed?

I've got these lights from Kopacek (Super Skoda) and I have to be honest and say when I first fitted them I thought they were quite ridiculous and actually thought about removing them. But...I stuck with them and now I love them I was a bit surprised at how big the light units actually were, and also the fact that they are transparent (I didn't realise this before I ordered them) instead of being actually red in colour like the originals... The one on the passenger side door was always originally making me think my wife had left something on the passenger seat in the corner of my eye, because there was suddenly this weird silvery object there, but I can say I'm used to it now and no longer notice it. The red glow is much much brighter than the original lights and does give quite a nice glow... Here's another pic when it's fully dark. I think the night-mode on my phone does make the red glow appear a bit more 'crazy' than in real life... And just incase that wasn't enough, here's a video of me opening the door... Ignore my laughing in the video, this was back when I thought they were ridiculous. So yeah, but of a shock at first and for a while I always thought something was falling out of the car when I opened the door but now I'm used to them I'd definitely highly recommend them

Does that not count as help? If not then neither will the following but as I don't know where it is I am supposed to go I will continue. Soldering will cause a brittle heat affected zone which will be more prone to fracturing, noneltheless its a valid repair method for this if you use a proper flexible cable with flexible insulation and make the 2 soldered joints well away from the part which flexes which looks to be impossible from the photograph, best thing is to replace the loom section, you can find the part number from 7zap. Some machinery I designed was having service failures, the production department were using soldered bootlace ferrules on cable terminations, I got them to move to crimp terminals but failures were still occuring, the I found that they were dipping the wire ends into the solder pot before crimping, despite our best efforts some of them contined to do this so we removed the solder pot on H&S reasons after someone tipped it over and burnt themselves. no more wiring fractures after that.

You don’t really need one. I did about 100k miles without one since it was “removed” in heavy snow.

First job see if any water leaks out on the floor front of the car if so you have a broken pipe , if ok no leaks what some times happens the jets get blocked from soap suds or car wax the only way i cleared mine was to use a £1 can of air used from poundland and inserted the red straw in the end of the jet wrapped a small bit of rag around it and kept pressing can every 1 or 2 seconds did this both sides and then kept trying washers after each blast and after few tries they started working again they need to be used on a regular basis, you could use a bike pump or an air line but not to much pressure as you will blow the pipes connections off or damage valves in pump

Have updated the water pump thread with video of failing component,

Here is the old water pump there is about 1.5mm of excessive play (that according to the tuning shop), did not exist in a brand new component. This is what is giving rattles and (squeaks). It is probably a part that wears slowly then fails suddenly. VID_20210523_100314_854x480.mp4

More to report after Nicola allowed us to cross the border. We did 1022 miles in the week so a perfectly normal holiday. Filled the tank and charged before departing. Set the car in hybrid mode with the Auto box ticked. Surprised me when the battery lasted just over 300 miles before dropping to zero and this was cruising with the ACC set at 72 mph for the whole 300 miles. Got there perfectly relaxed, just like we did in the 1.4 TSi. We were aware of several "free" charge points in the area and on day 2 went for a coffee and walk round whilst it charged a bit. Discovered whilst it is theoretically free there is a £20 a year registration fee, no way we would get our monies worth so abandoned idea of charging. The company that runs the points is changing the rules from July and changing the £20 a year fee to a once only registration but no indication what this will cost, might be better, might not, we will see. Did local trips all week, between 4 and 25 miles each time so no long sight seeing outings this time, too wet for that, and refuelled on the Thursday for returning Saturday. Just calculated mpg for the trip (including the cost of electric for the pre-trip charge) and Mr Libre Office (I don't pay for software if I can avoid it) said 55.7 mpg (the dash said 55.4 mpg so pretty close). Very happy with that considering the fact that we could not easily charge the car. Looking at the eco display when we got home showed the car had run 14% of the 430 mile return trip on battery, not bad when we started off with zero miles, shows it recoups a fair bit of power. Comparing that figure to the mpg we got from the 1.4 TSi manual the first time we did the trip is a good comparison. Both cars had covered just over 2000 miles on departure so both still not bedded in really. The 1.4 TSi managed 47 mpg for the week which I was very happy with. To get over 55 mpg from a heavier car with an auto box with little chance to charge is way better than I expected. Last year on the same trip the 1.4 TSi did 53 mpg for the week so lets hope that the iV loosens up with the miles like that did. Will it be cheaper to run over 4 years than the 1.4 TSi, doubt it but its a better drive and we like it. The price we bought it for softens the blow of course, probably be less enthusiastic if we had paid £8500 more.

I had a pair fitted to the front and mine turned up without the cables, and are taking an age to get. Still annoyed the originals failed within 5 years as I have never had any fail in all the other cars I have had. Also had to have the brake disks changed at the same time as the pads.

Finally had time to clean the car and pop some wax on it

@mac11irl Ha, we probably gave Olly a bit of an easy time on the cash side, but to be fair the car was a decent price before we started anyway. Arrived today as planned, and any lingering doubts totally melted away. It's a 3 year old car but if you didn't know you'd swear it was brand new. Must be a combination of one very careful owner and some good prep by RMP. Somehow it even still had that new smell about it, everything perfect inside and out. Seriously impressed. Took it for a couple of spins locally and any reservations about the small 1.0 engine vanquished. It'll be perfect for our driving needs. Pulls fine around local urban and rural roads. Looking forward to a longer 130 mile round journey tomorrow over the Cork Kerry hills and back. Long and short of it - I'm liking Skoda! :)

The individual strands in those cables look very straight and parallel which makes them stiffer because of the stretch one side and compression on the opposite side. Similar to when you bend a tube it stiff until it kinks. If the cables are expected to flex in service then the strands need to be twisted inside like rope.

You mean mines? Mines also lowered with springs only, but the rims on Tommy's ride makes it look lower, optical illusion i think

Alternator perhaps? Screwdriver on it and the other end on you ear lobe. Does the noise transmit.

I don't have an Octavia iV but have been reading up on them as it's a car I might consider to replace my Mk3 Octavia. As I understand it you can request it to aim for a certain level of charge by clicking to the side of the "battery" symbol as demonstrated half way through this video here (someone driving down a hill in a non-UK spec car): https://youtu.be/C2QZD_4xHcE?t=50 However it may not be the most efficient way to use the car. Converting petrol energy to kinetic energy to battery energy so that later the battery can turn the electric motor to make kinetic energy is several steps all of which lose energy. I believe that charging the car by plugging in, then going on a journey which ends with an empty battery means you have made most use of the (cheaper) electrical energy so isn't a bad outcome. I don't think I would deliberately change the settings to charge the battery while driving unless there was some specific reason I wanted to save some battery energy for the end of the journey (eg. to drive through a town with zero emissions/ getting back home at 3am without waking the neighbours / etc.). This may be what the car is trying to do too, so it will naturally want to use up the battery, not to charge it, as this is probably the most efficient use of energy.

Ok so Audi Q5 40TDI Quattro ‘70 plate as a replacement. Things are looking up! In no rush for a fix now!

Swapped out the second "basic plastic" key shell for a metal capped shell using the metal shell from aliexpress, link courtesy of @SashaGrace ￡9.56 30%OFF | MQB Car Intelligent Keyless Go Smart Remote Key 434Mhz with ID48 Chip for VW Passat B8 Magotan Superb A7 Variant 2014-2020 Year https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrh2g4t

Skoda Assist can get you a suitable car delivered today. If your own car is not ready for the holiday then it will have to be the Hire or Courtesy car you use. Be sure it is a suitable vehicle and do not listen to anything about the Dealership not having a suitable car. VW group have hundreds of cars they own at dealerships or they hire ones.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-VRS-18-SPACE-SAVER-SPARE-WHEEL-LIFTING-JACK-BRACE-KIT-/282666721376?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-GOLF-Mk7-SKODA-OCTAVIA-SPARE-WHEEL-HOLDER-CLAMP-PEG-BOLT-SET-/274664593406?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Interesting thread as we've just agreed a deal on a manual Kodiaq as SWMBO didn't really get on with the DSG. We also noticed (after trying three DSG's with a variety of petrol and diesel engines) that they didn't seem to gel particularly well with stop-start and were a bit 'jerky on initial take-up. The latter may be because we weren't that 'tuned in' to the DSG at that point but it was enough to put us off, although it was very smooth once underway. Possibly just us but I can see the appeal having now tried one...

Until I bought my current Kodiaq I had never driven a DSG before. I can honestly say that now 3 years later my next car will have to be DSG I could never go back to stirring a stick and pumping a clutch pedal Oh and the DSG is ideal for stress free towing.

Updated look with Brembo BBKs in the fronts and new Veemann 19" lightweight rims in matt black.

Size does matter. But now I’m prepared for the Swedish winter and icy roads.