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Sold my old Octavia nearly 4 years ago for a Leon FR. Still got it but finally persuaded the wife to upgrade Ford Grand c max replaced with.....

There are loads of repair kits on ebay with connector shell and ample wires with the connector inserts pre-fitted, long enough to get you well into the door where you can make inline connections to the original loom. Original loom is likely to be fine beyond the area that flexes. This sort of thing Door Cable Repair Set 107063 Febi Harness Wiring Loom Genuine Quality Guaranteed | eBay

You have a silver car and are complaining that the pictogram of your vehicle is silver but not the right silver? It makes all my problems seem trivial now.

Yep I found that out to my expense, nearly cried for a couple of minutes, turned the car off and on and all was ok but good to know the throttle sorts it as well.lol Cheers

BTW There is something I have to add in the initial post in this thread - the car is not moving when you release the brake pedal(as it usually does) until the throttle pedal is pressed. It happens on the very first driving, just after the DSG adaptation, but makes your blood run cold for few seconds

^ Whaaaaat? Firstly they are bolts, not nuts. Secondly, the same steel bolts are used on all standard Citigo wheels whether those wheels are steel or aluminium. Thirdly, you need to know whether these Rial Milano rims have taper seats or radius seats like the standard wheels. If the former, you will indeed need matching bolts with a taper rather than radius, but they will not be made of aluminium. wheels, brakes Citigo (CIT) [EUROPA 2016 year] (7zap.com)

Doh. After 3 years of ownership I've just found out I've got a virtual pedal on my 2016 L&K. I wondered why the tailgate would sometimes close on it's own accord & now I know. I didn't think it was a std fit on an 2016 L&K so the previous owner must have spec'd it. Just have to watch out when I'm loading shopping into the car that I don't accidentally activate it while leaning into the boot. I found all this out while I was removing an old stainless rear bumper protector & installing a new PVC one. The fit of the Skoda PVC one is a far better fit than the old aftermarket stainless but, it's expensive at £64 ish.

Bypass really is a bad idea IMO, get the proper loom, code the car and have the ACC radar recalibrated correctly. The car needs to be told it has the bar on it as there are 7-8 modules that need telling about the bar.

From Data Communications Company, the private monopoly this government set up to manage Smart meters and get around the fact that the older SMETS1 meters go dumb when you change supplier. DCC connect all meters to them and own the connection, then pass your meter reading to the appropriate supplier. All SMETS1 meters are being migrated to DCC to get over the going dumb problem. The SMETS1 meters normally had a roaming SIM in them that would pick up any available mobile signal (so my old meter worked as I have EE here but went dumb when I switched) and connect. SMETS2 meters had to be approved by DCHQ for some *******s reason and only O2 was selected as a carrier, so now new meters need an O2 signal south of M62 and this proprietary network north of there. I understand the proprietary network is using a frequency band released by old TV signals being switched off. I've been through all this at some length with Octopus, Eon and Scottish Power. Also tried engaging with DCC but they refuse to speak to the public as they are B2B only. Currently my MP is being ignored by them and getting quite irate.... EDIT: The WAN used by DCC is known as Arquiva WAN. EDIT2: Useful website I found researching this ****. https://www.smartme.co.uk/index.html

The world shortage is for silicon semiconductors related to computer chips, not compound gallium based.

Fabia at that age is 5j, or mk 2, pre facelift... The 3 refers to the car's spec. (Arm rest, trim levels, etc). I think I had exactly the same pipe wear out and leak on my car, some months back. It was a short piece of hose, about six or so inches. it connected a metal pipe that runs along the front of the engine, to the pump and is made stable by a kind of double plastic clip that clips two hoses together to help prevent movement. Jubilee clips (Stainless if possible) are easier to use then the old squeeze-types unless you have the proper pliers to do them. I purchased the pipe and clips from a local car parts specialist, called I think, Clarkins, on Forest Road, Walthamstow. They even cut me a piece from the bit I purchased, to just slightly over the original size, to allow a little more flex to help with vibration. (Less pull on the hose). It is easy to cut but I would have used a knife, where they had cutters, which make a nice clean accurate cut. I cannot remember the hose size but think it was something like an 8mm bore. The main thing is to be sure it is suitable for diesel fuel and the seller should know that. Aside from undoing the clips, prying off the hose and re-fitting, there should be no other worries as the pump will self prime. you might get a small amount of diesel leak when removing the hose but thats to be expected. I will try to load a photo to see if its the same hose as you mean but if you follow the metal pipe, it then goes back to rubber hose and goes in to the fuel filter, just behind the offside headlight. That hose too, is of the same bore and as it is standard hose, should be easily obtainable from most motor factors. Skoda main dealers only list the complete metal/flexi-hose as a unit so its quite expensive to buy like that and you would most likely only swap the rubber bit anyway!

Which are the same bolts as for steel wheels if the alloy wheels are standard factory ones. So Skoda are unlikely to sell bolts that suit aftermarket wheels with different seating. As far as I know.

Can just see it now, “ Did you ever own a VW/ Skoda EV? , did the heat pump not work as expected? Claim now, no win no fee. Contact us now “

Well, my normal procedure is to drain sump and change filter, replace drain plug, refill with the recommended quantity, run the engine for about 20s, then take a tea break to allow oil to drain into the sump, then check and possibly adjust the oil level.

I expect the guy fitting them in the factory was drunk.

Guys, Max has won approximately none, and ATM to even win one I think he'll have to beat Lewis and Charles, and quite possibly Lando...

Skoda should just have that on a banner above the entrance 🤬

There's no need to fill to the top, filling to the top can increase oil consumption if the crank and rods are splashing about in it. The dipstick marks are a tolerance so the middle is the ideal.

Yet he speaks highly of you

Took our sportline to a local Westfalia approved tow bar fitter this morning to have a vertical detachable tow hook with 13 pin electrics fitted along with the recomended systems coding,I was assured by the Skoda dealer that the car had factory towing preperation fitters said it didn't , they had to fit a new fuse box in the luggage area and run wires to the fuse box, (will check with caravan weekend), didn't want anymore payment for the extra works. I booked it on-line with a discount code and was quite reasonable. They spent 10 mins showing how to install the hook, how to get to the fuse box behind the glove box and which the towing electric fuses were and said once the electric's were hooked up an image of a trailer would be displayed on the central screen. Sounds good to me. Martin.

Hi there! When I sold my old car, it was at somewhere between 120-130k miles at 14 years old. (The dealer offered me £300 for it.) When I was looking for a replacement car, I really struggled to want to spend several £1000s on a vehicle that had done anything over 60K miles. And low mileage older cars caused similar cognitive dissonance: "Huh! I'm not paying £10k for a 6 year old car that's not that much different (in day to day function) than my old one, which is worth £300, so I'm told." Eventually I bought a 12-month old low-mileage car, which was way above my original budget, but felt better value. Despite doing my research and planning what I was looking for, a lot of that went out of the window when I came across the "right" car, and the buying decision was triggered by a price check to make sure the agreed price was okay. I tell you this, as your perception of value is something unique to you, but actual market value can vary wildly from your perception. So my advice is to buy something you feel is good value, but check the market value to ensure you're not paying more than you have to. Good luck! Note: Salesmen were absolutely useless at offering buying advice, blooming hopeless! Edit: Just re-read your post and seen your car is £10K for 6YO car at 90K miles. Personally, I wouldn't touch it with a barge-pole, especially as you do a lot of miles. But I'm a tight old git and to me, 10 grand on a car which will have over 100K miles by next year seems too expensive. But then we're back to perception. If £10K for a 6YO 90k miles car seems okay to you, AND the market agrees, then who am I to argue? Follow your gut feeling on it, but check the market price too. 2nd edit: Something that helped me, was looking at the cost to change, which in my case was pretty much £10K, and asking the question "What am I getting for my £10K?". I played my own bank-manager / Devil's advocate. Having to justify spending £10K on a car when I already had a perfectly serviceable car stopped me pulling the trigger on a car for some time. That said, it is perfectly okay, if you have the cash set aside, to fall for a car, and just want it, without any other justification than "Oh wow! I really want that car! " That's perfectly okay. I rationalise replacing my old Mondeo, saying I sensed big bills were gonna happen, and it was going rusty, older diesels are going to be priced out of low-emission zones, etc. but a big motivation in changing car was that after 10 years, I just fancied a new car. And as I'd saved up for it, that was all the reason I needed to buy one.

You can single press for Skoda voice assistant and long press for Android voice assistant - just in case anyone hadn't stumbled across this.

Dear all, I think I ended this thread very prematurely. I was in a bad place with the VRS (and hence it got put up for sale and I locked the posting), but what a difference of two weeks makes: 1) Since we last spoke, the car has been back to West End Skoda in Edinburgh twice to get the steering geometry sorted. First time, the car's steering geometry was massively out. The second visit corrected the steering geometry, so we now have a car that is steering straight and true. The Michelin CrossClimate+ tyres have bedded in and now seem to be running well on the car at 38psi. 2) The car's MPG after an oil change (at WES), went through the floor. I went from 50mpg down to 35mpg. The car seemed to run really hot. I was convinced that the oil was not right. The oil was standard Longlife LE3 VW 504/507 oil. To change the oil, I have an oil sucker. The CUNA TDI engine (184bhp) engine uses 4.7l of oil (with an oil filter). I was convinced the oil was bad. When I mean bad, the oil that came out was severely burnt (after 500miles). It smelt like a burnt barbecue and the oil was literally smoking after you had driven. Not good. The oil temperature got to 112C - too hot. The solution was worrying and simple: the car was overfilled by the garage (by about 300 - 400ml). If you look at the dip-stick, the top mark of the dip-stick shows oil level at the top of the dip-stick marker. What I didn't see until I checked it today - was the skinny part of the dipstick just above dipstick marker was wet with oil. Basically, the engine having too much oil was causing it to cavitate. The oil was pressurised - the engine used more fuel to get past the overly pressured engine block which caused excess heat. I have a theory on how this happened which I need to explore with the garage first. I removed 4.4l of oil and replaced it with 4l of new oil. The Engine is now transformed. I am now back to 48-50mpg. 3) To get over the glitchy power delivery, I have implemented the Audi power delivery mod on Module 44 (Steering module). Basically, the steering module looks after the throttle pedal. Did you know that all Skoda/VW/Seat cars have a time based power delivery mechanism as opposed the Audi Direct Input method (ie what you press - directly correlates to the power of the engine). Its no small thing to say that this has transformed the performance of the car - the engine has stopped fighting the gearbox; it is now wonderful to drive. My husband has gone from hating the car to loving it. I now have a really good VRS.....the loving relationship is back....I'm now loving it again.

What do you do when you: 1. Have a bottle that’s too big for your cup holder 2. Family members who can help with a lockdown project 3. A 3D printer you PRINT!

I'm getting a phone call every 2 weeks from the dealer. Although there's no real updates it's reassuring that they haven't forgotten me.

I forgot to take the photograph sorry. Position in the glass back in was quite easy as was taking it out. However, getting the damn bushes back in was another nightmare. I had to do some needle file fitting to get the glass to rest easy so that the relevant holes were aligned. . Anyway, I've decided to buy a new one next year. Getting too old to do this stuff. Thanks for your help Wino. You really showed the way John (with the badly lacerated right forearm 🥴)

Depends on whether your spanner is at 12 O clock or 6 O clock relative to the pedal shaft. Skoda should fit theirs (calipers not pedals) in either of those positions to avoid confusing people

Very nice. Welcome back!

So I emailed our dealer about this and he said the latest update had dated 13th July is that PP is in Europe but not the UK yet and they are waiting on service agreements to be sorted before they are rolling it out. I pointed out to him that it appears you can already sign up (not sure if anyone actually has) and that it would be very poor form it they allow people to start the 12 month period if they can't use the chargers! Also hope no one goes to Ionity and gets charged full whack or can't charge at all!

Thank you.

Hard to say whether it's right for you or not. What's EDF's rates and off peak rates? How much electricity would you be using on that off-peak? Most of the time, tariff like these will increase peak-rate slightly. The important thing is working out your overall average pence/kWh. Use off-peak rate to push down overall per-kWh. If worked out to be similar, then it's not worth the bother. Eg. my current provider Bulb charges 12p for off-peak and 20p for peak time. I think 18 or 19p if not on time-based tariff. But with my solar panel, I hardly use anything during peak time. Over 60% of my usage is during off-peak, (was 70% when commuting). So I stubbornly continue to use the existing Economy 7 "dumb" meter.

If you genuinely believe that regarding buying an old high mileage "sold as seen trade sale" vehicle then why are you asking for advice? Someone that has to pay a garage to diagnose and repair faults should not be buying a vehicle in that manner, perhaps this experience will enlighten him.

Can we have some photos @Alanphe

For my MIB2 I re-ripped all my CD's (or obtained MP3's from elsewhere) to 320Kbps as they were all orginally ripped to 96Kbps 10 years ago and sounded terrible. I simply have a folder structure of Root of SD Card ------------ Albums ABC Band ABC Album1 ABC Album2 DEF Band ... ... XYZ Compilation Album ZZZ Compilation Album ... 800+ Songs ----------- Classical & Christmas Albums AAA Classical Album BBB Classical Album ----------- Mega Mix 320kbps 800+ songs of 80's and 90's hits that are not in the albums above I then created an m3u playlist for everyting (bar the classical & christmas music) so I could put the whole lot (apart from classical & christmas) on one massive shuffle if I wanted to (bit OTT but I was on a roll at that point) It took me weeks to do and I used MP3tag to make all of the tags correct including Album Art and another free program (I forget the name) to create my mega m3u file (just to be able to shuffle all the songs). The most difficult bit was to get the m3u file right as you have to adapt the file (search and replace folder names to get the slashes right etc.) to make each track get picked up my MIB2 the second worst bit was using anything to get the right names into the tags for the classical albums as they have some seriously weird names and (for Windows) illegal characters/symbols. For the mega mix folder I used my own album art file: example of m3u file: #EXTINF:185,Queen - I'm in Love With My Car \Albums\Queen\Queen - Night At The Opera\3 - Queen - I'm in Love With My Car.mp3 #EXTINF:172,Queen - You're My Best Friend \Albums\Queen\Queen - Night At The Opera\4 - Queen - You're My Best Friend.mp3 ... #EXTINF:187,Blondie - Dreaming \Mega Mix 320kbps\Blondie - Dreaming.mp3 #EXTINF:153,Blondie - Hanging On The Telephone \Mega Mix 320kbps\Blondie - Hanging On The Telephone.mp3 ... ... etc. etc.... It all works wonderfully, all the art is there too but was a serious ball ache to do :-) A bit OCD I know but in lockdown we all had to find someting to while away the boring days. Cheers, Paul

My mate who has a 2l went to the agents in Slough and they have apparently applied a software fix. When I'm back for longer I'll be doing the same as the noise is one of s number of niggles I have with mine.

Just seen Luckypants reply, that makes more sense.

So many different types of chips,what I understand off people in the trade it is down to the chips in all electric that is causing the big delay in delivery.not that they is not a shortage of chips in general .

If the turbo is noisy and hot, it may as simple as a split or popped turbo hose, may be worth getting a local garage to check the car first. A simple inexpensive fix may resolve the issue. I had similar with a runabout Freelander, I changed a turbo hose (Split) and glow plugs (Burnt out), limp mode and engine warning light went out, and I ran it for another 2 years till I sold it on. Cost me under £50. Some people get rid of older cars because they cant be bothered to check for simple solutions, and some garages will only do a diagnostic, which wont always pick up basic mechanical issues.

I was only 400 miles short of that distance and could only get half the 10l container in. Even though the tank was full, or more accurately I couldn’t get any more in, the system said I could still get between 3.5 and 5.5 litres in there. That’s after ~7,000 miles from new. What concerns me is when I can’t get any more in I get a “range” of 3,500 miles, which I’m interpreting as either I didn’t actually fill the tank or I did fill it and the system has an issue calculating how much has been used and how much is now in there. I’ll leave it the range count gets to the hundred and try again, pos via a forecourt pump.

Before tv cameras everywhere that first lap incident would been a first lap racing incident 50/50 and either driver could have gone off but as can be seen oh sky slow mo maxs deliberate turn into Lewis caused the crash and max lost out,I also thought the remarks from red bull brought the sport into disrepute because they made the remarks before seeing all the footage in SLO mo.10 sec penalty my a** ……………anyway best driver won and I think in every way RB look bad losers ,not that it’s max first incident as a great driver that he is ( but not the greatest YET)

If you display favourites on the radio screen all the selected icons appear. Tap on your choice, then centre left on the screen is a small vertical white bar. Tap it and the full screen will appear. Let me know if this works for you. Perhaps there should be a thread entitled 'things I've discovered on the Octy Mk 4 infotainment screen'!

That will suits more people. I would like an estate. I meet a good few with MG EV's and they are happy other than the poor range they achieve. Lots on the roads in Scotland & being leased from Motability. I have spoken with people that have bought ones outright and that are very happy with them.

I got a V5 for a change of car in 4 days last week, that was done online initially and I got the actual printed form 4 working days later.

Looks to me like the type of retention system on the rear door glass of a mk1. To remove the glass you find a long screw that will just go into the inner plastic tube (M5 on a mk1), screw it in until it holds, then use it to pull out the tube. The outer plastic tube may then be loose enough to pull out with some long-nose pliers or similar, then the glass will be free to lift out.

Sounds like the 'learning to adapt to a driver' feature is a bit too smart for its own good. I had a casual pre-covid job where I drove hundreds of customer's vehicles (over relatively short distances of up to 5km) and the variation between like models could be surprisingly large. To be honest I was not that impressed with most autos I drove, even luxury brands. I always preferred the manuals (especially the Mustang V8/manual combination which just seduced me) There was one standout car, a simple brand new Mk7 Golf with 1.4tsi and 7 speed dry DSG. It was just so incredibly smooth, and changed imperceptibly at the perfect revs (for me) I could not believe how good it was relative to others I had driven. A colleague drove it and agreed it was unusually good. Funnily enough the car I drove immediately after was a Tesla S, with no gears, and I was a bit less 'wowed' than I thought I would be because the Golf made that much impact.

Annoying music warning.

Slamming it when?

I come from over 30 years of LR ownership and nothing I’ve read here, or experienced in a year of Karoq ownership, would put me off. OK Skoda CS looks to be a bit of a joke but at least the cars work (mostly, ignoring satnav and sunroofs) as they should and I’m not in first name terms with the local service manager. Wouldn’t go back.

Regular update is 0253. But if your unit is hacked then I recommend to leave it as is...