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My new Skoda arrived, just not the Kodiaq I’ve been hoping for Merry Christmas and hope everyone waiting on new cars get them soon.

To all my Superb mates ! May Crimbo fulfil all your dreams and may our 272 brethren awake on Christmas morning with a nice pair of flaps ! ( I hear the big man is handy with a spanner )

There is no spring behind the pedal to fall out in the way you describe, there is a coil spring inside a plunger which acts on a cam to give control loading, in the first 50% of the stroke it will return the pedal to the top position, in the bottom 50% it gives assistance, if there is no fluid pressure acting on the piston it will push the pedal to the floor and hold it there. Nobody has asked what gearbox the OP has, if its a 5 speed with external slave cylinder then its not a gearbox out clutch replacement job, if its a 6 speed with concentric slave cylinder then it is. Nobody has suggested checking the master cylinder, they can and do fail, there is a powerfull magnet that operates a reed switch to tell the ECU that the pedal has been depressed, this gather abrasive metallic clag, from where I know not but it can score the cylinder also the piston pressure seal can fail without any leakage. 9 times out of 10 is the O ring on the later 2 piece concentric slave cylinder becoming abraded through vibration and allowing air to enter the system without ever leaking a drop of fluid, the physics of it are beyond me because it is always under hydrostatic pressure but that is the failure point. Clucth action can be restored simpy by opening the bleed nipple and closing it as soon as fluid dribbles out, you dont even need a spanner, it is done by hand, you will probably find the pedal action iffy after some while, whatever you do never lift the pedal up by hand or with your foot, that will 100% bring in air through the O ring.

I can't believe you aren't considering 'sassy pink' 🙂

Sounds like the high beam needs adjusting. The few times I've used it I've found it very good and lights up well into the distance. Done often need to use it. Most of the time I'm either just in town/city or on the motorway where the xenons seem to do a good enough job of lighting the way. I also have the full AFS II activated which also adapts the lights for motorway driving.

Just barging in on this thread ( bored with eating and watch Xmas TV all day 😂 ) so tell me to sod off as I no longer own a Octavia. Root is correct. Just to clear up a few errors from elsewhere in this thread 1. Under PCP the car belongs to the finance company ( usually VW Finance ). It only becomes yours if / when you make that large final payment. Under PCP you are the registered keeper, not the registered owner. 2. You MUST inform both finance company ( the owner ) and the supplying dealer that you are rejecting the car. Your contract is with both of them. 3. It was under the old system you had to give the supplying dealer a chance to rectify the problem but laws have since changed. Note - the problem has to be serious, you can't reject if it's a niggle or minor inconvenience. A faulty gearbox that needs replaced is about as major a problem as you can get. (a) Within the first month of delivery, you can reject a product if it proves to be faulty - end of. No attempts to fix it required ( although common courtesy would say give them a chance ) (b) From month 2 to month 6 if a fault develops the onus is on the supplier to prove the fault was not present at time of delivery. Again you give supplier a chance or two to rectify problem, but if it persists you can reject. (c) From month 6 to month 12 the onus is on buyer to prove the fault was present at time of delivery. This is potentially more tricky and it's unusual for a car to be rejected after 6mth. (d) After 12mth? You've more chance of winning the lottery than rejecting the car 😂 My advice to the OP is that if what you say is accurate i.e. you reported the fault within the first month since delivery, then I wouldn't expect there to be any issues rejecting the car. If it was over the month since they were informed, that they've confirmed there's a problem and it can't be rectify within a reasonable timescale, it's a simple rejection. ( Some dealers may try and plead that because they gave you alternative transport i.e. courtesy car, that they are entitled to repair the faulty car - it's not true, it's not what the law says. don't let them away with it if they try that ). Notify both the finance company and the supplying dealership you're rejecting the car. Under law, both are equally liable for the car you're paying for. And last two very important things to remember that almost everyone gets wrong. THIS HAS NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH SKODA UK so don't blame them. (There's nothing they can do anyway). Your contract is only with the supplying dealer and finance company. And whatever you do, DO NOT STOP YOUR MONTHLY PCP PAYMENTS until told to do so. Hope that helps. PS - If I were in your situation? Rejection should be easy but what's your alternative? As delivery times on new cars are all over the place right now, can you purchase a car in stock?

I recently bought a 2012 Octavia with factory xenons. Although the lights were fine and plenty bright enough, I still had a set of Osram cool blue intense bulbs from my Saab that had only covered about 20k miles and 2 years so I fitted them. There was still a noticeable increase in output and a much whiter light. I do also have adaptive xenons where they adjust at lower and higher speeds etc which also helps to throw the light out.

Does it by any chance have headlight washers for Xenon lamps? They use gallons of washer fluid every time you wash the screen and maybe also at programmed intervals. The only car I had them on was a Sierra Ghia, no idea why they bothered but I disconnected them pretty sharpish as I was having to fill the massive reservoir too often.

Xman & Tell, Thanks for your input on this issue. Cheers, CJL

I'd stop at 19"; no comment on style preferred although I tend to like a fairly slim spoked 5 spoke as being easy to wash and not having unnecessary stress raisers.

When you find the chance to have the bulbs replaced, come back and let know what the difference will be with some info. Good luck!

You talked me into the dampers and tyres (and maybe wheels but I don't know what size you're running).

Do you regularly adjust temperature and/or direction (include setting the Demist mode here) to exercise the control flaps? If not, then I prescribe 10 minutes of flapperobics before doing anything else.

I own the car for 10 years, I am sure there is some problem, sould you advise to clean some part of the ac?

No tangents here.😁 Yes there is coolant in it now but before it stopped it just under the minimum marker. Yeah let's hops I can fix it by myself.

Legend, thank you 👍

Ask the dealership for a copy of warranty document, and ask for a print out of the service record (on a new car will only show the PDI). Good dealerships will have given you these (and a print out confirmation that car is taxed) Although your service is not due, as a guide for other readers, I always insist on a print out of service record when I pick up car and pay for service. By time next one is due, you will have forgotten what they did, or when things that are only every few years were last done. And having a readable record saves having any guessing

Nice, this is just what I thought... Just choose a decent good quality, not cheap ones. Merry Christmas!

Here you go mate. The Mk4 Canton has more equaliser levels so I just made them the same for those that had more. Everything else is the same and transfers over. Sounds much better with them. I found if you want more punchier bass just increase the subwoofer level rather than the bass otherwise it’s too boomy (like in the photos)

Well, first post and it's that there Xmas so . . . I must admit I thought 140, when, what was going on, how much more info can the scanner give or what can it operate. But I have been caught out with idiotic thinking before, so like many I might not be a complete idiot (can't ever remember completing anything) but sometimes I have stupid thoughts and do many stupid things (sometimes more than once or even repeatedly). Great to have a humorous response, cheers. 👍

I took off the rubber and I saw 2 holes that seemed to be plugged by an oval black sticker . I took the stickers off and problem solved.

Just a pry tool on the short edge, the one nearest the rear of the car. There is nothing to it, they just pop out, and the wiring is the same. The wiring will only go in one way too, so cant go wrong. Just dont ket theveire fall into the door. It will honestly take you about an hour. That's 59 minutes to admire them after the 1 minute to fit them.

Before any tangents and wild goose chases............ is there ANY coolant left in it ? How much did it loose / was it loosing ? DId it have coolant in it "before" it stopped....... ? RED warnings on the dash are never a good sign.

It's on pcp. I bought it from dealer 200 miles away as they only had it in stock. Its been at my local Skoda dealership where they said replacement is needed. Problem is that they said because there are supply and shipping issues it could take months to get new gearbox. Is it acceptable that I could wait months for such a repair?

Rejection is notified to the supplying dealer, not the finance company. Letting finance Co know is more a courtesy, they don’t do anything to the faulty car. It is different if car is leased, as the leaseCo own it, and you deal with them. Basically dealer has one chance to fix it (not multiple goes) promptly. If they can’t do it, reject it on the spot, don’t take it home, get money back.

When I said "cheap" I was not referring to those from the bargain shops. Even the best ones only cost 4-5 dollars which is peanuts compared to most aspects of running a car.

Merry x-mass every one. Enjoy 🧑‍🎄

@Stanners Hi, just noticed you have a 1995 model Yeti. No wonder your lights are dim 😉 Seasons greetings 😏

I asked about the DSG oil at the start of October (the car was 4 years old then, but only had 27,000 miles on it), and got the following back from Skoda Customer Services: Re: ŠKODA KODIAQ – TMBMJ7NS0JXXXXX Dear Mr XXXX Thank you for your recent contact with ŠKODA Customer Services. I apologise for the delay in my response. I refer to your questions below which I have highlighted. a) which gearbox we have and; – The gearbox is a DQ500 (b) whether the DSG oil and filter change recommendation is time or mileage-based? – DSG oil and filter change is mileage based so it is required at 40,000miles I hope this information proves to be of use. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me and I will be happy to assist you. Thank you for contacting ŠKODA UK. Kind regards XXX XXXXX Customer Relations Advisor ŠKODA UK | Selectapost 34 | Sheffield | S97 3FA Tel: 0333 0037504 [email protected] | www.skoda.co.uk | www.skoda-auto.com"

I found the below when looking for it myself: https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/collections/skoda-octavia-iii/products/vag-front-assist-to-adaptive-cruise-control-upgrade I’ll be looking to get it done at some point hopefully

The OE tail-light wiring is dreadfull, really shonky, until the later photograph which I enlarged I thought you had done a bodge job with the trailer wiring. Their wiring is thin and brittle as it is without having long unwrapped unsupported lengths of it like that; the green conductor already looks like it is fracturing.

They were all over the place with Haldex when Skoda & VW showed it at 4 year / 40,000 miles, the VW were saying 3 years / 30, 000 miles and Skoda said 3 years but not 30,000 miles, then eventually got to 3 years / 30,000. Still to long for many cars and especially where that £85 is not even the job done properly. The DSG is definitely not at 4 years if the car is not near the 40,000 miles, but should not be left until over 40,000 miles. But then there is still the confusion over those that are @ 80,000 miles. DQ381's.

I think you're right, it might have been the Haldex I was thinking of, changing from distance to time.

They certainly show the 4 years / 40,000 miles for DSG Oil changes and a price on this below. Very likely just wrong. It would certainly be interesting if Skoda UK explain is that just a pure simplification showing a price rather than a new Schedule / Recommendation / Guideline for Oil Changes of DSG's. It has some at dealerships with no idea about what DSG is what telling customer that there DQ200 DSG needs an Oil change.

A June 2018 Kodiaq will have the 40,000 mile DSG interval, but I think Skoda UK have changed to a time stipulation-only instead fairly recently?

Skoda UK have a blanket 5 year interval on their cambelts. It's a contentious issue and one that divides opinion, mainly due to some other markets not imposing a time interval, preferring to stipulate a distance interval only. Skoda UK also have the distance interval, but in my experience it can vary from model to model and even build year to build year, so often the best option is to get it in writing from Skoda customer services via their Live Chat function or via email. I've found that the information from my local dealer to be different to that of Skoda UK too. Diesel cambelt intervals are rarely less than 80,000 miles and often over 100,000 miles so unless you're covering above average mileage it is likely you'll hit the 5 year interval before the 'distance' interval. That would make it due in June 2023. Skoda have also always had issues with their water pumps, either leaking or sticking, the sticking pumps seem to affect quite a few diesel Kodiaq's especially early ones i.e. 2017 and 2018 production. You might find a future faulty water pump might force your hand into having the cambelt replaced early? Skoda will refit the same cambelt when replacing water pumps under warranty. They know better than me but I'd never refit a tensioned belt, at least one as critical as the cambelt, and so would pay the extra to replace the cambelt and tensioners at the same time, which given the labour savings of combining both jobs can save some money too.

Yes, you can get them for a 20 inch wheel. Not used them myself. But if you want them get them fitted professionally. Also be aware that should they come loose the damage to the paintwork of your car can be significant as it whips around at high speed until you stop and remove it.

So.. Bit of an update Just got my car back today Been with the garage 6 weeks! (not their fault) Went in for new chain kit Oil pump found to be faulty - Replaced Then, no oil feed to top of engine Stripped top down, and found the one way valve pictured solid, so was blocking oil to the top end Luckily no damage to top end, I went and had a look at it when it came back from the engine services shop, all cams and head spot on £20 part from VW solved the issue The comment from the garage - It was on the shelf, which surprised them.. meaning its a regular part! The garage suggested poor oil was to blame But it had been regularly serviced £1950 later and I'm back up and running - I added a new clutch kit while the gear box was off Hopefully be keeping this for a while now to pay for itself! IMG_0637.HEIC

Not in Borg Warners opinion. Moving torque rearwards before slip has occurred using input from sensors and lines of code is classed as pre-emptive. It's not reacting to slipping wheel when traction is already lost. That's no different really to the many different modes in more off road biased 4x4's where torque is distributed depending on mode selected and input from sensors prior to wheel slip. As an Electrical Engineer working daily with code Pre-emptive systems are common place whether you agree with the terminology or not. Definition In this case the software Prevents "Forestall" Slip by taking advance action before slip occurs.

It's not reactive in the sense it's waiting for wheel slip. Under certain circumstances (setting off from standstill, or burying the throttle while on the move) it'll engage even if there's no slip. I just remembered a video I made ages ago, one winter when our drive was literally a sheet of ice (so much so I could barely stand up). Not particularly scientific and you can only see one side, but fun nevertheless... d

Having attained the notable three score years and ten I decided to treat myself and move to the dark side (Beemer, since you ask!) so time to sign off from this forum. I've not been a prolific poster as I was new to Skoda and joined to learn but have been an avid reader over the past couple of years There are so many knowledgeable posters that every day has been a school day and compared to some forums very little "willy waving" or needless arguments. Whenever I've raised any queries the replies have always been helpful and friendly even though sometimes the questions have perhaps been a bit dumb! So can I wish you all the very best for the future and thank those who've offered help, like SachaGrace with coding, I'm sure this forum will continue to go from strength to strength. As for the Skoda Superb, good name because it really is a hell of a lot of car for the money. Why anyone would buy a VW instead of Skoda puzzles me? I tested an Audi A6 Avant Quattro before deciding on the 5 series touring and the layout was so similar I thought it was really just a more upmarket Superb, quite a bit upmarket but too similar to tempt me (although it did go like **** off a wet shovel compared to the 1.5 petrol!!). Overall the Superb is a very relaxing car to drive with a hell of a lot to commend it and very little to condemn it. Little touches like the hooks in the boot (they must cost about thre'pence each!) that stop your shopping being all over floor when you get home are helpful things other makers would do well to copy. Only real PITA was that if you set up an individual driving style you have to switch to it every start up, particularly on a multi stop journey. Real first world problem that, so really enjoyed my time with Skoda and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them. Off to find a beemer forum that I only hope is as knowledgeable and helpful as this one. 👋 Cheerio.

Government has reduced grant to £1000 now There was a few days transition for orders in progress when change was implemented. (announced 15th December, claims could be made for orders for 7 days) Seems that no Enyaq is eligible anymore, although those that can afford a £34k - £50k car probably don’t need a £1000 subsidy anyway