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It was replaced with a lower powered 2.0TDI from memory. Whats your thought process here? Be less cryptic.

Oops, I meant to put a post up to say that it's arrived from @@Lee on the continent a few weeks ago. I'm currently waiting for a time when it's warmer before I can do anything. I have so many jobs riding on that one warm Tuesday in July that we get here for "Summer".

I've already borrowed a nice long 16amp extension cable for the job She is charging on my leccy, whether she likes it or not besides, I'm intrigued by the whole thing

Or just open the bonnet, close and lock the car, then disconnect the battery. Thanks, AG Falco

Because the OP said he'd already checked the fuses. It's always the bloody switch on VAG cars, that's why.

These days the vast majority of memory used is non-volatile memory that doesn't lose it's information when the power goes off - hence disconnecting the battery makes bugger all difference.

Used ones would be fine, they are adjustable by screwing them in or out. The original ones on my car don't look remotely crushed and have never been loose.

The job is never finished until you leave DNA behind!

From the written judgement above So, no details were given of the other two alleged partners. Second, I have checked on the Companies House web site and EJG was only incorporated yesterday. Sounds like Mr Diffy is a slippery character with an unwillingness to divulge information even to a judge. Those 2 partners may not have existed for all we or the judge knows. One reviewer who bought a car from them Bought a car from Midland Sports & Prestige (part of the Stanton Car group) car was faulty, refused to repair or return vehicle. Once they get you off the forecourt your on your own. currently still have no MOT on my car 9.5K finance. Fraudsters of the highest order. BE WARNED, AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE All reviewers gave the lowest score possible, not one good word. Do leopards change their spots?

I've been a bit quiet of late so a small update is overdue. It was time to clean out the catch can again. I've covered roughly 1200 miles since the last time I emptied it and as you can see, there was quite a lot in there again. It's quite a satisfying job when it's done as knowing all that goo wasn't going back into the engine. I also had an uncharacteristic problem yesterday. The car took three attempts to start up in the morning. It turned over, fired and then died. Even when it did begin to run it was lumpy and felt like it was on three cylinders. Once it was up and running things were fine. On the way home from work it did the same so I decided to clean the throttle body. I already had a gasket in as it's on my list of jobs to do. I knew that it had been done once already due to an earlier post by a previous owner. I seem to recall it was somewhere between 70 and 80k so it was well overdue. I took the hose off expecting to find things all gunked up but this is what I found. There was a bit of build up but nothing too bad. I did notice that the gasket wasn't visible with the throttle body in place and on removal it was a bit wet as you can see in the picture. I cleaned things up anyway, removed the old gasket and put things back together. I then left the car to sit for a couple of hours and fired it up. It started first time and ran nice and smooth. The real test will be in the morning so I'll let you know what happens. I've also attached a photo of the two gaskets for comparison as you can clearly see they are different shapes and that the new one is visible when the throttle body is in place. I was daft enough to think I was on top of things and then noticed that the rear nearside door hadn't locked with the fob. I locked it manually & then opened the door on the fob & it seems to work again. I reckon I'll be getting my soldering iron out soon to repair the wiring in the door. There's always something isn't there?🙄

The end of the line. All in and working correctly, engages with reverse, looks great. The missing link was another part of the head unit loom still being in my drawer rather than attached to the unit. On that loom? A video input labelled Reverse Cam In... I'm slow but I get there in the end. Thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone.

my workshop mechanic did it for me, sorry i dont have the photos when removed, but let me check on the part codes etc. he did mention this highlighted part here was worn out (the brackets that hold onto the bumper), hence he replaced it. this video may assist:

White knighting, LOL. Just been back over the topic to see if there's stuff I've missed. You are probably right in increasing numbers of cases. Older car, remap plus multiple racer child owners = things blow up. Given the cheapness of generic remaps for the PD130 and the increasing age of the cars.... Something's got to give somewhere. I blame Top Gear.

Any luck getting the metal 'springy thing' yet, Ryan, or still waiting for it?

Ok, we shall see, OP's gonna swap out the switch from his other car. I don't care about being right or wrong, I'm just trying to help someone out.

Okay, so that gives us the option of BMD, BME, AZQ, or AWY. Which one of these codes is yours? Chances are it'll be AZQ or BME with it being a combi as I haven't heard of a 6-valve estate.

i could be wrong i seriously thought it was the pump wil recheck

I don't think that's correct. The Estate/Combi/Station have the same reservoir at the front of the car underneath the wheel arch with one pump that does both front and rear (the impeller spins in reverse for rear).

The car above is the prefacelift model as far as I can tell, I don't know if that makes a difference. As for the 13amp charge thing, somebody should tell Peugeot about the danger of domestic charging. Mind you, my home entertainment spends several hours a day burning though a fair bit of juice. (the additional power amps don't help). Still, it helps keep the room warm.

Do you believe that Skoda would assemble their own engines, engines that are common to the whole VAG range of vehicles? Perhaps by hand by the guy who tightens the water pump screws in the wrong order on every 5th engine.

If the problem still remains after your throttle body clean, I had a starting issue a little while ago where it was taking a fair bit of cranking and often needing a lot of throttle on cold starts. Luckily a scan actually showed up a fault as an intermittent crank sensor signal problem so I changed the sensor and it's been fine since. Might not be your issue but a potential. Locking problem is more likely to be the locking mechanism itself rather than the wiring, I've got a couple that are getting tempramental on mine that I really must change before they fail completly as it's a pain in the pee pee to get a deadlocked door open without destroying the door cards.

I've been to see the Peugeot man on my way home tonight. The 3008 is normally fitted with a standard 3.7kW onboard charger. It also comes with a 13amp, 3 pin domestic plug, to type 2 AC plug (although I guess strictly speaking it's a socket as you wouldn't have a plug if it had live voltage on it's pins that you could touch). Anyhoo that has a current limiter that will prevent the domestic plug drawing more than 13 amps and is in fact somewhere below this. This is what I had assumed, more or less. The 13amp box isn't for emergency only however, as it's only a small traction battery involved, it will only charge for a few hours at most. The 7kW onboard charger can still be used with the above 13amp domestic interface and this will still protect your domestic socket and ring main for overloading in the first place. It shouldn't make much difference to the charge time compared to the 3.7/3 kW onboard charger version. Although I suppose the inverter may be slightly different and so a slight change in efficiency will alter the charge times very slightly. I asked the above questions, as a friend of mine is going to be staying with me for a couple of weeks and is bringing the afore mentioned 3008 to stay along with her (I've made a nice comfy bed up for the car too, of course). I said it would be fine to charge it on my domestic supply before she raised the question of the 7kW charger. She has a proper charge point at home that is wired into the house supply. Anyhoo as long as she has the 13amp interface buggery box it should be fine. She is going to ask her husband if he has any idea if they own one I suspect he will be of no use, as he is even less technically minded than she is

Skoda are still value-orientated (as opposed to price-orientated) but they are slowly shifting their offer away from where it was 10-15 years ago. The number of £30k+ cars in the range is testament to that. No doubt each unit is more profitable (especially when customers tick all the options) but you still have to sell the cars. I guess the thing Skoda have to keep an eye on is how crowded their target market is becoming and how electrification is going to shake things up. If you want to start selling cars in the £30-£40k range, consumer expectations are going to be very different. Skoda have traditionally done well in the customer satisfaction surveys, but that could change if some of the customers who are just pleased to have a practical, functional car and don't care much for age move to Dacia, MG etc., While customers who would previously have had a BMW or Mercedes decide to give the brand a try.

You cant take something that you 'think' is the truth and tell people its the truth and the cause. Ive replaced somewhere between 50 and 100 of these water pumps on both longitudinal and horizontal engines and its not as simple as 'replace a water pump seal'

@sepulchrave from the wiring diagrams The other arrow is the output to the Main beam fuses

@FUBAR... enjoy.

They are both for dipped beam, 57 left, 58 right. Unlikely that both blew.

Sorry, I missed that despite reading it again. He should try disconnecting the battery 🤣

So how does main beam flash work when the lights are off then? Voodoo magic?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234415036641?epid=1338754436&hash=item36943998e1:g:duQAAOSwTgBiBRsT ^ That should be what you're looking for.

I think there was some confusion generated by my post. I'm not saying that you will save £10K by buying a Tesla, I'm suggesting that some buyers would attach a value to something like a dedicated (to the brand) charging network that is rarely offline, reliable, fast and almost always has space for another Tesla to park up and charge.

Always ask them to charge the car after servicing - usually they are more than happy to plug you in

Thanks for this guys. I'm likely to have a crack at it myself. I managed an older Passat - but to be fair there were dozens of walkthroughs about! Can't seem to find any for a Mk3 Fabby though!

I'll let you know I get on. Trying TPS first, drop them a message.

VRS 2.0 TSI DSG Estate ordered May 21 with Winter Pack , informed in December from broker of build Week 9 w/c 28/2. Email Friday from broker to say "supplier has informed me your vehicle was scheduled to be built Week 7 w/c 14/2".

Golf Estate, Roomster, possibly a Jetta if you can saloon. PD105 in the Roomster can be tuned. Some Aussie lot did some articles a few years back. On this site: https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_112589/article Get a PD140 Golf or Jetta and it'll go better but less frugally than a PD130.

Yes, having a MK1 Octavia for 12 years was like that for me, I really had some major catch up to play when I got a MK2 which was very needy by comparison although most problems were inherited from dealership bodges, then once again with the Yeti. During that time the specialist multi-marque parts suppliers to the trade that I used to deal with (even by then main dealers parts counters had little clue) have all dissapeared and indeed the internet & Ebay has taken over, TPS fills the void nicely for me and as long as they continue to serve me I will remain with Skoda or VAG. My big problem though is that there is nothing similar in France and I am selling up everything in the UK and will soon have no excuse to return.

A very light sprinkling of snow in the borders.. a couple of shots with the camera phone today.

I'm sure mine would with the new battery currently fitted, the problem is that an older battery may have more than enough oomph to start the engine on the coldest of days but not enough capacity to counteract its own self discharge and the cars quiescent consumption (which can be quite high on some) over an extended period of 3 months. I think the alarm battery also plays a part in this, they are supposed to last for 5 years, many don't but while they are still working but on the way to failure they themselves self discharge and are a considerable draw on the vehicles battery replacing that charge, a quiescent current on one car might be 20ma, an identical one where the alarm battery is failing may be drawing 50ma on shut down, the first car will restart after 3 months, the second will refuse after a month or so.

Skopart Germany has new in stock but these don't come with the letters picked out in white so you need to do yourself with some tyre white.

Hi Ivan, Sorry just noticed your query today. They would not supply range of brands (I asked initially for cost of Brembo, Pagid etc.) as they have one supplier of aftermarket parts (they don't want to have to set up new accounts for different supplier etc. just for me- I think it is fair enough). Their supplier was representative of Ferrodo so I went with this as reading online forums it seemed Ferrodo Premier should be decent. Skoda replacement parts would be more than £200 more than Ferrodo Premier so I kindly declined that

They not cheaper then Euro. For example coils just purchased recently in Euro on sale for Bosch paid £32 there they have some unknown brand for £30

If it was available I think it would be in this diagram https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2003-252/8/823-823010/ #5 are the two scuttle panels #8 is the rubber trim that goes over the front edge of #5 and nothing in this diagram for the windscreen https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2003-252/8/845-845000/

Vid just posted by BOM but from last August.

Mine on 2022 kodiaq sportline are spot on. On straight roads bendy country roads that I live on and there working spot on. To be honest my favourite thing about the car.

I do not believe that figure for even one second.

...or in your case another dead body and the zip ties and duct tape...

Welp, got a confirmation from my dealer yesterday. My Scala is in Croatia and should be ready sometime next week. Holy cow!

Well its been a while but I have it moving under its own power again, used an eezibleed to bleed the brakes, still took a while to do. Massive amount of air came out of the front brake. Old fluid didn't look terrible even though its atleast 5 years old now. Had to bleed the coolant too as I changed the coolant temp sensor and disconnected the coolant bottle to make it easy to fit one of the tigersealed engine mounts. Got it out and running, brakes work good but, for some reason the hand brake is seized solid. I also tried to adjust the shifter linkages and its made the engagement for first and reverse pretty poor, first and reverse now share the same position which is interesting. Otherwise, its driving really well, new drop links and arb bushes have tightened up the front and its no longer rubbing on full lock. No knocks or rattles from the suspension, even though I know full well the console bushes are past it. Had it "driving" in place on jack stands when I was trying to bleed the coolant, and while I knew the drivers side wheel bearing was bad, when the wheels were spinning the drivers side was wobbling around like it was barely on. Fine for running around the farm yard but not ideal for an NCT. Forgot how nice these seats are. Still a lot I want to do to it but its getting there, albeit slowly. Think its 5 years now since I got it, and its still not roadworthy.

I will post a full upgrade in the next couple of days ....