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Just drive the car for a few minutes and all non-error lights should go out. Octys like showing off their dashboard telltales after the battery has been disconnected.

Just drive it for about 100 yards

Sorry to disagree, but you don't need to heel and toe to get more control out of a manual gearbox. There's all sorts of ways in which a manual gearbox is better even without heeling and toeing. For example, when turning into a side road you can precisely time when you lift the clutch to apply drive to the wheels, so you can change gear just before you turn and then accelerate away exactly when you want to. An automatic gearbox does not know that you are turning a sharp corner so there is no ability to control this. In theory you should be able to manually drop down a gear using the paddles but still there is no ability to time when drive is applied. It is just not as smooth. Another example is when accelerating away from stationary (maybe to join a roundabout). With a manual car you select the gear then lift the clutch when you want to go. It is instantaneous. With a DSG it takes its time before going, and the degree of acceleration is very hard to anticipate because you have to push the accelerator hard enough to get it going (no clutch to control this) but if you push just a little bit too hard the gearbox drops a gear and all hell breaks loose! There is just not the subtlety of control you get with a manual gearbox. One big issue is that you never really know exactly which gear the car is in if you are in Drive as there is no indication. Let's say there is a corner that I know is best taken in 3 and I am approaching it in Drive. I press the left hand paddle to drop a gear but the gearbox was in 6. It drops down to 5 which I only know by looking at the display. If I then try to drop to 3 by pressing the LH paddle twice it is a down-shift within the odd gearbox and therefore takes at least a second to happen, which is quite a long time and impossible to anticipate the timing when you are going round a corner. In a manual gearbox I know the car is in 6 and then I can block-shift to 3, applying the drive exactly when I want to by lifting the clutch. I do this all the time when driving but it is so difficult to do well with a DSG. I think a big issue when people compare a DSG (or any automatic gearbox) to a manual is that they compare how long it takes to change gear. In my view this is just not the point. The reality is that with a manual gearbox you are totally and absolutely in control of the point at which drive is applied to the wheels by control of the clutch. With a DSG it is a very moveable feast. Furthermore with a manual gearbox you know exactly which gear the car is in at all times because you put it into that gear, and you have the gearstick to remind you as well. With an automatic gearbox you either do not know which gear it is in, or have to look at the display to know (if it is in Manual or Sport mode). Finally in a similar vein when you are accelerating you never know exactly when the gearbox will change gear just because you have pressed the accelerator that little bit harder. Some of the time this does not matter, but when you want to drive with finesse it makes it very hard to do so. I could go on and on about the shortcomings for me of an automatic gearbox, but suffice it to say that I just do not find it possible to control the car as well with one when compared to a manual gearbox. The only time it is somewhat better is in traffic when you can just sit there and only have to press the accelerator. But for me that is not enough of an advantage to overcome the shortcomings.

I had a Passat GTE before the iV. At 4 years and 88k it was still on the original front pads and discs. It needed new rears for the second MOT because the discs corroded through lack of use. I don't think occasionally mashing the brakes will be enough to prevent the same unfortunately

So, almost 5 months into ownership, and I'm still really liking the Superb. Went down the road of lowering, with Eibach Pro-Kit, a few weeks back, and that pushed me to either buy some spacers as a temporary solution, or finally make my mind up on some wheels. Read as much as I could on sizing and offsets, but still needed to take an educated guess/leap of faith. Straying from my Japanese wheel roots, I ended up going with Judd Model One, 20x9.5 et40, in Gloss Gunmetal (would have done Brushed Titanium if they were in stock). Tyres are Michelin PS4S, 255/35r20 in size. Yes, I know that's a little larger than stock OD, but it was a deliberate choice to maintain some sidewall. No rubbing so far, thankfully. Outside pics are with the stock wheels/tyres loaded in the back, hence why it sits a little lower in those pics. Will try and get some better pics sometime over the next week or so.

Hi Charlie It the repairer's job to put your car back to the state it was before the accident, and the insurer's job to pay for it. You shouldn't have to run round spending time and effort doing their job for them. Why can't they go to a Skoda dealer, find the part number and order it ? Sounds like laziness/incompetence to me, and you would be justified in having a good old moan. It's certainly not for them to decide if something is needed - of course it is, it's part of the seal between engine bay and heater intake. And the bonnet fit, paint finish etc should be as per a new car. Too late now, but you can normally insist on your own choice of repairer, you don't have to accept the (cheapest) one initially suggested by the insurers.

Mk1... Mk2... Hope this helps.

Conversely my 288's are excessively powerful, they'll break your nose with a light prod on the middle pedal, Pagid discs and pads probably make a difference but the old 2.0 is a fair bit lighter than the 1.9 PD diesels.

Loom swap today old one out swapped the steering column over too to save any coding issues. Added some closed cell foam under the carpet. New one in just dash and all panels to put back in. Stop start module and beats amp to mount under seats, abs sensors to connect up. Aerial to swap and headlining to refit. I’ve got next week off so no more progress till then

Sorry Guys I meant to post an update but after storms we lost Broadband until today. I got my car back last week and the replacement ECU seems to have sorted the DSG issues although it doesn't seem to have improved the economy. I did however get a completely different story from the Service guy than what I was told by the Customer Service manager about what went wrong in the process, but I guess I will just have to be thankful that I am back on the road. They could not find anything wrong with the Electric hatch although twenty minutes after leaving the dealership I opened the boot and it failed to latch again, but I couldn't get it to repeat so once again I will just have to keep an eye on it. One interesting thing I wanted to mention. You guys may remember that last year I suffered a bad water leak into the car which took several weeks to trace and fix. Well the loan car ( VW T Cross ) they gave me almost certainly had the same problem as every morning that we had a frost the inside of the windscreen froze up as badly as the outside requiring scraping to remove it. This happened three mornings in a row so when I collected my car I mentioned it to the service guy. He told me that it was the second of their fleet which had suffered the same way so it does look as though there is a problem either with the fitting of the windscreens or maybe the shape of the car frames do not match the curviture of the screens. I don't suppose it will ever be published but it is rather off putting that it seems to be a VAG issue. I remember some years ago when Ford had a problem with cracked windscreens which turned out to be a couple of spotwelds which were distorting the windscreen aperture. Anyway my door handles do not stick any more and my seatbelts now return properly which apparently was something to do with the 'B' pillar trims which were replaced. Now it's time for the 1st MOT - I wonder if it will pass?

You need to get the dealer to provide the proper, Skoda supplied spare wheel kit. The kit includes 195/60x16" spare wheel, jack, tools, stowage boxes and false floor. With this kit in place, the false floor sits level with bottom of the tailgate opening.

It may be worth checking for broken wires between the "A" post and door both sides by gently pulling back the rubber boot.

Back at it today. Got the driver's side arch cleaned out. I've measured the anti roll bar, it's 20mm. the missing grommet seems to be 20mm too, they sell a box of 100 for £2.69 at Screwfix, I only want one😂. Also noticed that the sai pump mounts are broken, not sure what to do about that yet, I'll search the forum later.

@MarkyG82 I'd say it's pretty much identical between them both. It definitely doesn't bring it to a halt. The interaction between regen and brakes is not as good in the superb compared to the GTE, the superb sometime lurches as you come to a stop and it can be disconcerting. Haven't worked out the cause or if it's just a problem with my own car.

Thanks a lot everyone...really easy fix...not tools no nothing...just unscrewed the fan from its place ,couple of spin by hand ,back to how it was. Thanks again everyone!

You are right, the car, i make about 6,000k per month, most of them in highways, cruising at 75-90 (and about 2.3-2.9L per 100km, a very small part, maybe 200km of city usage, and about 150km of dirty roads like the one in the video.

i build a metal guard for the lower part of the engine from a 5mm aluminum piece, about the grip f the tires, i lower the tire pressure to 20psi and thats fine.

The fixes are easy and would have been applied to most MK1 Fabias ages ago. The door carriers behind the door cards just need sealing around the edges with sealant like Plumbers Gold, silicone, etc. You don't even have to remove the carriers, just the door cards. It's also worth poking a bit of wire or whatever into the drain holes in the bottom of the doors to make sure they're clear. If it's also leaking at the scuttle it might be that the scuttle drain holes are blocked with leaves, etc, as it's quite common. You can access the drain holes by taking the plastic arch liners out. And as Sepulchrave says, the window scraper seals are a not relevant as water is meant to get past them as they are not desinged to be fully watertight, they don't need to be because the water is meant to drain out of drain holes in the bottom of the doors. Sealing tip for rear doors... Helpful videos....

By applying a turning moment to the rim using primarily the upper arm and shoulder muscles. But that will be tomorrow, today in the UK I was doing exactly the same.

Only had this afternoon and tomorrow free so made a start. Old engine out, interior loom tomorrow so full interior strip down

After a veeeery frustrating 8 month wait, our new Kodiaq (and 1st ever Škoda) is finally here! We got a Style TSI 190 4x4, and it is quite well equipped, with some options that I particularly enjoy every day: Matrix LEDs - awesome Canton - sounds alright, and feels good that I managed to spec it before they removed the option from the configurator Auxiliary heater - hard to live without in cold winter mornings And most importantly the Ergo Comfort seats - the added underthigh support is great for taller people and the seats feel overall better than in any other Kodiaq I've test driven. All in all a great car so far!

I bought my 2012 car in 2015 and they had never worked until I activated them. If you use Carista then you can activate a few other things such using individual fog lights as cornering lights. The DRLs were not mandatory in 2012 so I guess they were put in as preparation. Yes. the ELM number was my typo.

If running the pumps via VCDS does not prime it ether is not going to help.

Could you not make the part (a mirror image of the nearside) from some high density foam. Without that part air from engine compartment can enter the cabin via ventilation system.

"They can’t locate the ‘pad’ anymore, they don't have a part number apparently and they don’t think it’s needed. " Ah, don't you just love garages/repair agents/bodyshops that know better than the manufacturers, get on to your insurers and kick up stink about them using second rate repairers and them omitting to replace parts from your vehicle during/after the so called repair.

Well spotted Urrell. "Also I think there’s more engine fumes going into the cabin from the air vents?" "and an intermittently broken back windscreen wiper" Both these items you describe are extremely difficult to prove or disprove. If you go elsewhere to have your rear wiper rectified, hopefully they will tell you what the problem is and why. If then it can be proved that it was due to the accident then this can be retro added to the insurance co at a later date, & you should be reimbursed. Good luck.

DSG, as my SEL is. Wouldn't go back to a manual now. Also went for ACC as I wouldn't be without that either, Temporary steel space saver spare wheel - 215/60 R16, and Winter Package Plus.

The karoq replaced the Yeti

Thanks for your input

Driven several courtesy cars over the past couple of years some 1.5tsi Octavias but mostly 1.0tsi fabias, some manual, some dsg. All from cold start when I drop off my car first thing in the morning at the dealer, then driven for about 5 miles home like a granny. (£1000 excess dampens any urge) A very mixed bunch of mpg results , one monte carlo fabia was particularly terrible according to the on board computer, barely reaching 30 average and at first I thought I was driving a diesel it was that loud and rough even though just 9000 miles on the clock with service due message on. The best was a 1.0 tsi DSG which just scraped into the low 40's which would be around the same as my manual Superb 1.4tsi. Helped by the ECO coasting mode which was a nice feature. What I notice everytime I get what is a similar spec car is how different their engines can sound and feel and how widely varied the average consumption can be.

It has climate control as standard, it's fairly basic but it works well. Auto means the aircon pump is working, Econ not. I tend to set a temperature in Auto and leave it to do its own thing. Econ just means that the aircon is off but the car will maintain the temperature without using the cooling facility of the aircon. Basically it'll heat the car up and cool it as best it can but in the summer you won't be able to sit there at 18 degrees inside the car if the outside temp is in the low 20s. Some people remove the SAI as it can be easier than fixing it. There's a link here,

That is how it feels. It's almost like hand-off happens at too high a speed. ETA: what's common for me is the lurch happens (i.e. suddenly you're not decelerating any more) so you press the brake further, which then fires the ABS

Best thing to build up distance is to to the first 10 lengths (5 ends) without stopping..& yes its the hardest...then increase to first 20 lengths....Then allow yourself a brief stop every 10 lengths. TBH I usually count "ends" & only from the end I start, so thats 2 lengths...

In theory if the car is serviced to Skoda standards with OEM parts then shouldn’t be any problems with warranty. However if something fails after warranty, and you try and claim a goodwill contribution, then likely to have a hard time getting goodwill if not serviced by Skoda. First year service is not really a problem, but there are lots of add ons as @roottoot has said by time get to 3years or 30k+ miles

A Mazda 5 ain't a Kodiaq nor is it any other SUV - you need to compare like-4-like. In any case, 50kg extra won't make any difference to economy of a vehicle or at least, it's a difference so small you won't be able to calculate outside a controlled environment. A hybrid SUV? Yes, that may well work in your favour but again that'll attract a higher list price. So if running costs are your primary concern, will you be any better off with a hybrid ? Take a hybrid out town work / short runs and all of a sudden the batteries add to the weight you're carrying around. There are more vehicles on the market than when I bought my 1.5 DSG Kodiaq last year but a hybrid ( or indeed diesel ) made no economic sense for my circumstances. All depends how you use the car really. Edit: just out of interest I've looked at the Hyundai Tucson page as off the top of my head, it's one of the few SUV's that come with several powerplants, and for the same car in same spec, a petrol hybrid commands a 75kg penalty over a 48v mild hybrid ( which in effect is just a petrol engine with a bigger battery ) but the plug-in hybrid commands a whopping 300kg penalty. Not sure how far that plug-in will take you but after say 25miles, the engine will be pulling 300kg dead weight. A mild hyprid adds £2200 to the price of the std auto, the plug-in adds £6600 😲 It'll be advantagous for some ( company car drivers? ) but certainly not for everyone.

Hello and welcome to Briskoda!

Yes they will fit, all mk4 Octavia use 5 bolt 112mm PCD wheels I guess you have 205/60 R16 91V tyres 7.5J 18 inch rims need 225/45 R18 91W tyres The 18 inch have outside diameter 7mm more, so when treads worn 3.5mm would be same as new 16 inch, so not worth worrying about any speedo difference. The obvious question is why, the tyres are more expensive, wheels more susceptible to pothole damage, will not ride as well on poor quality tarmac (due to smaller sidewalls which absorb small surface imperfections), use more fuel, more likely to be damaged on a kerb. Lot of downsides. If you are buying new tyres, then may I suggest getting all season tyres, modern summer tyres are not suitable for all year use in UK as they tend to be poor in cold rain, and useless in sleet, slush, snow, frost etc.

@JR RS I'm in the talks with the paint shop to fill in the indent and paint the boot portion. Still waiting for that aliexpress strip to come though.

A hybrid must be staggeringly complex. Having the complicated petrol and electric engines to integrate into a more or less imperceptible single-feeling power train, is a work of genius. Different forms of propulsion and the integration of them together can not be an easy ask, certainly you'd imagine a pure EV or ICE car would be significantly easier to design and build.

In theory yes. In practice like me with an EV and hardly ever touching the brake pedal other than to come to a dead stop the brake discs are a rusty red mess and will need replacing soon as will the hardly ever used brake pads. MY Stellantis Group crap discs. VW Group / Skoda are doing something right with Drum Brakes on the rear of EV's. The e-Brake can not be pulled on to clean the rears and if just trying to run with the brakes on to clean them they are that good the car just stops even on a long steep hill. No chance of giving it some accelerator and touching the brake pedal as i have only 1 foot and as it is the power is cut anyway with accelerator and brake. So some fast driving and hard braking time and time again is the only way to clear the rust.

Phone call from dealer this afternoon car arrived at Grimsby this morning will get to them middle of next week so shouldnt be too long after that then 🤩

It downloads automatically there is no rollback or fix but you could try a reset hold on button till it restarts. Doesn't tell you but when you're system updates do a restart. And after 12 months you have to pay for skoda connect for downloads and software updates

Not correct! If you have MF st.wheel without paddles, your MF buttons on the st.wheel are not compatible with the paddles, as the car was not configurated with paddles and as the paddles are connected with the MF buttons and the comunication with the car is via the MF buttons. So if you want to uppgrade to st.wheel with dsg paddles you should buy all three - 1. st.wheel for paddles. 2. MF buttons compatible/for paddles. 3. The paddles. You can buy it as a set on 1 st.wheel, or from different sellers, as I did. But if you try to use your MF from your car this will not work!!! MF buttons for DSG paddles are diferent part number from your originally installed in the car.

Front Bosch Wiper Blades Driver's side AP24U 24" Passenger side AP16U 16" Twin Pack A556S Rear Bosch Wiper Blade A403H 16" or A383H 15" I would go for 16" rears.

That's some good progress so far and cleaning the carpet is something I keep meaning to do... As for the crud behind the scuttle panel, that looks like it's never been done. I don't think I've ever seen one so full of gunk and removing it all can only be a good thing.

I found some replacement LED bulbs on Amazon for my combi tailgate that worked fine. 10 pack currently on sale for £20.36. No errors or issues & Canbus friendly. Still going strong 2 years on. LED bulbs

One of the boot lights was out; so decided to chance the LED replacements on AliExpress. A very simple swap out, I was happy with both the quality and speed of delivery to Ireland ( less than three weeks) Just received mud flaps and a few other bits from superskoda, so will get those fitted over the weekend.

Yeah, the regulator cable usually snaps. Happened to mine just as I was parking up to go to the dentist and I had to leave the car with the window dropped inside the door. Luckily it was a dry day and no skulldugery happened while I was gone Handy video...

1932 Restored Convertible Skoda