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Collected my new SEL yesterday, very impressed. I thought I would give others a timeline of my buying experience; Ordered on 21st Feb 2022. Order confirmed by Skoda UK on 2nd March 2022 via email. 4th March 2022 dealer informs me that the Skoda system has me down as build in week 16. 13th March 2022 dealer informs me that the Skoda system now has me down as build week 14. 5th April 2022 dealer informs me that the Skoda system has the car built and in transit from the factory. 22nd April dealer informs me the car is at the docks in Germany. 28th April Skoda UK inform me, via email, the car has left the factory (3 weeks after dealer told me). 7th May car is at the dealers. Collection arranged for 16th May 2022. Total of 12 weeks from order to collection. Great communication from my dealer. Early indications point to a great mpg from myskoda app: Collect car, drive to garage to fill up and drive home 6 miles @ 45.5mpg. Little drive round 9 miles local and A roads up to 60mph. 9 miles at 55.3mpg. Drive to and from relatives local roads 13 miles @ 52.3mpg. I do a lot of motorway driving with a usual 400 mile road trip coming up. My previous Audi A4 Avant (similar engine) did over 60mpg on that journey, with an overall 58.9mpg over 66,500 miles. Looks like the Karoq will be doing something similar.

Fed up of having to update your car's navigation unit, or run out of signal? Behold, the solution to all your problems... A Bakelite compass and a dod of blue-tack.

Bump out of interest I've been looking at rolls of stuff off ebay to do my two. I think the biggest gains are to be had from doing the boot area as there's not much sound deadening there.

Mine goes in for 4 x alloy wheel refurb tomorrow (19" Trinity). I'm changing from diamond cut Anthracite to powder coated gloss black & no diamond cut to match the paintwork (nearly). Should get it back on Friday this week🤞. I'll post some pics then.

You need to get onto JML with that idea. I can just see it now ''Introducing the new JML Wayfinder, works without that bothersome electricity!''

Maybe of use to someone but I've had both my struts replaced using my extended warranty in year 6. Would have cost over a grand apparently.

Oh and I got an award !

Lovely sky after the sun had set this evening

Can anyone explain in simple english exactly how to set up and use my phone as a data hotspot source for the car? I have occasionally got it to work by fiddling with various iPhone and car settings, but invariably next time I start the engine to use the car the web connection symbol is red again. whatever I am doing to occasionally get a hotspot connection is not remembered by either the car or iPhone automatically and used again next time. I only ever got this to work reliably with a SIM card in the car, which is a MY20 vehicle. I had a sim card which theoretically had free new data every month after paying £10 for it but it only ever renewed by phoning and chasing 3 each month and I have given up with it. Paying a monthly fee for another data card doesn’t make sense if my phone can act as a hotspot correctly.

After the heartache doing these ones? I'll pass. This should have been a piece of **** if the bolts didn't break.

Subframe is out Had every other bolt out except for one of the bolts holding the steering rack to the subframe as it spun. Ended up just pulling it out and bending the clamp that holds the steering rack bush in. Conveniently I have a superpro steering rack bush originally meant for the Monte to put into this, since I'm so far in. Now looks like I actually need inner and outer track rods. Not a big issue. Wishbone came out attached to the console: Console bushes are out also. One console is stuck into the subframe due to the aforementioned spun bolt. No spanner (or vice grip) will hold it so I'll probably just cut it off. One of the snapped bolts I'll try weld a nut onto and back it out that way. The other one will hopefully come out with an extractor bit. How everything currently sits: That subframe was a lot lighter than I thought. Could carry it with one hand. Feel I should mention that if not for the broken bolts, this would have been unbelievably easy to do. I think I'll take the time and thoroughly clean everything before it goes back together. I got a cheap sandblaster recently and I think this'll be a good way to try it out.

Thanks once again. For anyone else: can't get the bonnet stay or the acoustic pad off eBay at the moment, but the clips can be had in packs of ten using @TMB's link.

Brilliant. Thank you TMB that's much appreciated. I will have to swop the speaker and I'd had in mind that the rivet must be the same size as the panel rivet, so that's a great help.

Thanks, Lee. Going to have the car in tons of bits over the Summer anyway for a deep clean since it's absolutely filthy inside, so I'll start sticking insulation in those bits.

I fitted the under-bonnet sound deadening pad from a vRS. Makes a suprising difference. The orange plastic clip that holds the bonnet stay is different for the models with the pad and has to be changed. As DieselMonte says, the vast majority of other noise comes from the back. I sound insulated under my back seat, the boot floor and inside the hollow rear quarters. Made a big difference to road noise.

If you get a whole new regulator panel you need to swap your door speaker to it. The rivets for the speaker are part number N90765701. 4.8x15mm. However, I used short nuts and bolts on mine instead of the rivets. You will need a riveter capable of taking those sizes as small standard pop rivet guns are no use.

I'll be surprised if it does but my current car is great to be fair so I'm in a far better position than lots of others so I really can't complain

Do we have a stash of bakelite compasses?

Sometimes you need to tell the Dealer Principal that their staff are not the owner of the car and you are. There is no Official Secret Act here or Data Protection giving them a right for them to know and you not know, because it is your car and you want to know what is done to it because that is how things work, you pay the money, buy things and if they have to do warranty work or service campaigns and Skoda / VW pay them. If it is Skoda UK that needs to divulge what is done to your car by their agents then ask them in writing because it is your property.

If you are getting between 2.9 and 2.4 mi/kwh for your electric only trips then the car should be showing estimated range (after full charge) of between 30 and 35 miles. My last trip was only 4 miles with a mi/kwh of 2.8, and my est range, after full charge is now set to 30 miles. Keep a check on what you are showing after each charging session so that you can watch out for variations, and then ty to work out why it varies so much - this will normally be driving style / type of road / use of /ac etc. Interesting that you are getting a 7kw wall unit. The superb can only charge at a max rate of 3.6 kw/hour, and your 13 amp home supply will already do 3kw/hour, which all that I have. The 13 amp home supply takes me 5 hrs 20 mins to do a full charge. Using a 7kw charger will still take around 4 hours. Try charging for FREE at one of the Tesco chargers - check your local area and use the Tesco web site to search for chargers.

no it’s Chatham’s who were bought over by West End Skoda

With a £12 Lidl oil vacuum pump no need to even go underneath and no drain pan to clean up. Used it for the last 3 years and no way am I going back under any more.

Well…………. Wasn’t going to confess up to this…… But!!!! In the belief of if it helps other people out? And using the mantra of “start cheap, work up to expensive” So gets home from work and gets underneath car and side to side play was more apparent, decided to take off centre cap and check the 36mm bolt, and low and behold I could tighten it with the breaker bar! Tightened it up, quick test drive and no knock!!! I know the torque value is 200nm so I’m going to tighten it right up and see how she goes, if not another cv joint (outer) will be ordered and fitted…… morale of the story stand back, accept advise, check the simple and fingers crossed it’s something simple.

Ha, clutch has been performing flawlessly - until this morning when it stuck down at the first start of the day. It's now approx. 1500km since the last instance. Torn between living with it and replacing the master which I already have, it doesn't look that much of a task and know I should do it but I've become a bit of a lazy bas*ard not to mention that presently it's in the mid 30's here so if it's to be done it will have to be an early morning job. Ironically per my last post I also did my 110,000km oil change today. As an aside I must say that compared to my previous MK1 Octy, which was a PITA, at least until I cut a square out of the under body shield by the sump plug, on the Yeti it's a pleasure as the drain plug is completely accessible without having to removing a damn thing and the the dual drain filter makes it a mess free 15 minute job!

You mention the 1.4 petrol does not have the guts. I thought it had the same 150bhp and 250N/m torque of the current 1.5 petrol ran by VAG. My 2014 brochure has the 1.8 petrol as having 160bhp and 250N/m torque. Have I got this correct? Colin

Did this a few weeks ago but never got around to updating the thread. Ordered some stuff from creations motorsport for an upcoming project, and also ordered a short shifter while I was at it. Had ordered one before but shipping to Ireland post brexit meant it got returned to sender, and I got my money back. Pretty simple job to do and has done what it claimed and shortened the length between gears. Thought it was too short at first but after a few minutes it felt just right on the shortest setting. Short shifter lacks the large weight so it feels a little more notchy than standard also. Also filled the bushes with tigerseal to stiffen things up further. It did make a difference but didn't help some side to side slop I was feeling beforehand, but I found where the slop was coming from when I was doing this. Something to fix in the future but not really an issue now. It feels great in spite of this. Edit: Adding a video of Before and After Now for this upcoming project, its an Intercooler. I got an intercooler in good shape off marketplace, and ordered some 90 degree reducer bends and joiners from creations motorsport to get it to join with the original piping. All it needs now is some good clamps I don't want to start on this until the Mk1 is back on its wheels however, so this might not be done for a while. Also want to get a catch can to install at the same time, to keep the intercooler clean for as long as possible. Aside from the above, I recently found out the Air Cons no longer blowing cold, and it needs 2 tyres again. Air cons probably just a regas as I don't think it was ever done. 10 years old this year so can't be too mad at it lasting so long. Tyres are going on the insides and are at the point where they'll be going to the back soon enough. Have 2 tyres ordered in and they'll be done sometime next week. Brightside is that it'll finally be 215/40 17 all around now.

Well well, another one has shown up: LN04 AVJ https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/1182966285785791 Nicely specced. Xenon, sat nav, sunroof

Basically same engine, slightly remapped due to emissions I think the 110bhp version is euro6d and 115 the less strict euro6d-temp

It seems that these engines though fitted to 100's of thousands of vehicles are apparently guaranteed to implode. So i guess ill have to look elsewhere the 1.4 doesn't have the guts for me and I don't want diesel I'm looking to spend around 6k + trade in so call it maybe 7.5k ideally 80k ish miles I think would be about right for that money (cant stretch to newer model prices start at 10k). I'd want Manual yeah there is this one that I think is suspiciously cheap being sold by a dealer with bad reviews has red flag all over it.

Yeah I've read abut the 1.8tsi potential issues hence looking for a lower mileage or one that has already been replaced / refurbished. Seems to be similar to the Ej25 engine lottery that was prevalent when I was a Subaru owner. You tend to only see the few hundred horror stories on the forums and internet and people ignore the millions that run fine so i think similarly id be willing to take the risk to get the version of the car that has the performance I want as I do not want a diesel car in 2022 .

Hopefully you can find one. Good ones are what people often keep and ones not so good are what they get rid of. Maybe a wanted advert on the likes of Briskoda will get you one from an enthusiast. Even low mileage you will need to see invoices to see what was done at Services and not just go with a FSH. So Haldex having an oil change and filter clean @ 3 year /30,000 mile or less intervals.

A similar experience to me, ordered on 28th Feb and picked up on 14th May.

Hi globalste I think that you are being fooled by the miles per kwh figure of 4.4 in your example. When using the app you can toggle between mi/kwh and mpg for each journey. I believe that if you toggle to mph on your example trip (21 miles) that you will find that the figure will be less than 313 mpg, maybe around180 to 200 mpg. If I'm right that will prove that the journey was not all electric and that you car switched to petrol for a small part of the trip. If the trip had been all electric (and there was still electric power left then the mpg would have to be 313pmg because that it the mac range that the computer will set when it is ONLY an electric powered trip. With a REAL mi/kwh figure of 4.4 you would have been able to complete a trip of at least 30miles may a bit more without going on to petrol. The best way that you can tell how well you are driving, in terms of max range on electric, is to watch part of digital cockpit display that show current and cumulative info about mi/kwh whilst driving the the (not Hybrid mode). If you cannot see this info then you can get a good idea by looking at the estimated range after you have fully charged (before you set off). This figure will show you what that car has calculated you will get on your next trip IF YOU DRIVE EXACTLY the same way as you did on your last trip. It is NOT an actual range, it is a GUESS by the car. If you drive differently (eg. use more electric accessories in the car, and a lot of low gear, rapid acceleration etc, or go ultra ECO mode on an open road) you will get more or less than the estimate. Any technician that tells you that you must use Hybrid mode obviously has never driven a PHEV. The main thing about PHEV it that you can always do shortish journeys totally petrol free, which is great. If you are planning along trip then Hybrid is OK because you know that you will need the petrol engine so its best to let the car decide the best way to use the electric power (Hybrid with auto selected). Personal examples: Best ever electric only journey: Actual distance travelled was 40 miles with 2 miles left in the battery. This was TOTAL ECO running mode in warm weather Worst: 16 miles driving in winter, with heated seats on for a short while, and a/c running - this was before my FIX at Northampton Skoda (see below). Best Hybrid trip: 150 miles in total in Hybrid auto mode from the start - the car journey info showed that my mpg was 85mpg, with 48 miles by electric - this trip was mainly motorway doing between 55 - 60 mph almost all the way, no electric accessories running. Skoda fix by Northampton (Marshall). My car stop charging with red light on the cable used for connecting to my 13amp supply at home. I thought it was the cable. Local Milton Keynes skoda dealer (also Marshall) told me to take it to Northampton where they had more trained staff. A different cable was connected and gave the same fault. Left the car for 6 hours. On return the technician told me that it was a software fault which had been installed, and it fixed the problem. Prior to this I hade made a number of complaint to the dealer and to skoda UK (back in Nov/ Dec 2020). It was very clear that SKODA UK had no idea about faults on what was a new car (PHEV), and that virtually nobody knew about any known problems, or about the error codes. After the "FIX", as if by magic, my car started doing over 25 miles on a full charge, which got better in warm weather. It is my belief that my car was NEVER getting a full charge even though the car thought is was 100%, OR the car failed to use all of the battery power that it had been charged with. I also suspect that the software in the car can control which part of the physical battery it will use since I know that none of the batteries are 100% used because the cells fail over time and the software makes changes to which parts of the battery are in use (spare cells), however over a long period maybe 8 to 10 years the amount of cell failures gets so high that the usable amount of battery runs down when the spares are used up.

If you switch to 5w 40 just make sure it is low sapps, else it will block the dpf quicker. The EA288 engine is known for high oil usage. Plenty of posts on here about it. If you are looking at modifying the engine the most you will get is around 280bhp and to get that you have to spend some serious cash. Even to get to 250bhp will cost a few thousand pounds. Chances are if the dpf is still fitted then the turbo will be standard. Most who go hybrid remove the cat and dpf. I would be looking at possibly a sticky wastegate if your car is slow to build boost low down.

I’ve had two emails from my dealership which didn’t really tell me anything. I now don’t have a car and really struggling to get hold of an interim car that isn’t going to be a total waste of money. Not to sound dramatic but I wish I hadn’t ordered , I was told 16 week wait: not 18 months. so frustrating. Octavia VRS estate diesel.

Not as much fun as my old mapped 2.0 TDi 4WD Yeti, but reliable, economical, more practical than a Vitara (and better equipped). Decent family transport I did recently take a test drive in the new S-Cross (Ultra) and was impressed.

Hi. If you need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Day 2 - the main event! Rusty ran really well. The clutch and gear shift feel much better, handling and steering are massively improved too. The car sounds great, and had no real issues. Patrizia started telling me "Brake system defective" but everything felt right, no actual brake issues, so I temporarily unplugged the sensor on the brake bomb to shut her up. https://i.imgur.com/uAtQMYY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/o2mRenm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/x3eJe3Z.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kMrpKnX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FxctYip.jpg

Soo the Wookies weekend! The Christchurch and Wellington crews met at Mana BP - which was a financially painful hour or so - it took me about 30 mins to get 71 litres in - I need to look at the tank vents again. I've checked everything over but either something's still blocked or kinked, or there's a design flaw here! And I ended up being last-minute transport for a set of 19" BBS wheels from a Golf. Next stop Bulls, then Taihape, then Ohakune. On the way to Taihape my speedo was playing up, only reading when pressing the accelerator, going to zero when coasting. It made keeping to the speed limit down hills a bit tricky. I did a bit of soldering in the BP car park and it was better on the next leg but not perfect. Bit more soldering later on and things improved, though it still occasionally read whatever it wanted occasionally

Did the dealer (not who I would use for alignment) do all 4 wheels and what system did they use. I would only trust old school string or a laser 4 wheel setup.l like hunter. It could also be a worn bush. Sits straight when aligning but put load on like drive or a person and it could push it out.

Let me correct you slightly - VW/Audi engines in general seem to do that. 😂 Especially if you “trash” them from time to time I had several VW petrol and diesels, and all of them were leaking a bit from there. I had an Audi A4 B7 1.9 TDI which even had additional rubber around the cap, which I’m 100% sure was designed because VW didn’t want oil all over the engine.

I've waited until now to reply to see if my maps would update after running the car for some time. The answer is NO and I did do everything correctly. As for mountains and molehills, I don't think so as VAG has really complicated by making things work in different ways in different countries and also different models of Skoda in the same country, even though they have an MIB3 system. I am told once again today by the Skoda UK online chat line that mapping updates can only be done in a Kamiq via OTA in the UK. This was also backed up by my dealer and to do this we have to be signed up to Skoda Connect and also be logged into the infotainment system as the Primary User. Once this is done, updates will not necessarily be immediate and they will be dependent on when they are released by Skoda. I told my dealer that Bryfly had managed to do it, but I'd only realised today that he has a Karoq, not a Kamiq. The dealer said that although different models may have the MIB3 system, some have an imbedded SD card (not to be confused with an embedded e sim). A manual update will work in car that has an embedded SD card, but not in a car without one e.g. the Kamiq. I cannot speak for other countries, except to say that I already knew that parameters differed between countries, which I pointed out before, so I have to assume that you in OZ have an SD card in the Kamiq, or maybe it's to do with your mapping being much smaller. Anyway, it would appear that I wasn't logged in as the primary user in my car, which is probably why I've received no updates. I've now rectified that and already I've been allowed access to the shop and have made a free purchase of Traffication, so hopefully, mapping updates will follow in the fullness of time. Once again mentioning mountains and molehills, I think it's a bloody poor show that VAG not only makes it complicated to do these things, but they don't give us enough info to make updates (in this case) easy to to do and understand. And don't forget Exkiwi, not everybody on the planet who buys a new car has your knowledge of computers, so what might come easy to you doesn't to them. As for implying I'm thick, I did everything correctly following the Portal instructions, plus those from you and Bryfly. There just wasn't any info available to tell me that these instructions wouldn't work in a UK Kamiq. A poor show on their part I think and this is echoed by many other owners here in the UK.

I finally bought the grill in my Skoda dealer (about 120€). They had to take out the front bumper, but made it for free the day i got my new car. I think it was a good idea, because the car looks much better, in my opinion.

How close a tyre is to the suspension has nothing to do with the track measurement. Track is measured from the centre of one tyre to the centre of the other. If a car comes with different rims that have different offsets, and they often do, then the car will have multiple track measurements. However, a manufacturer will often just give one track measurement...perhaps when fitted with the entry level rims. The link that you posted has nothing to do with track measurement.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axle_track#:~:text=The axle track in automobiles,roadwheels on the same axle.&text=In a vehicle with two," and "rear track". The measurement of a car's track is not taken by reference to the car's axle. For example, the Smart 452 Roadster uses the same axle arrangement as the Smart 450 ForTwo. However, the Roadster has a 38mm bigger rear track. The only difference causing this difference is the offset of the rear rims. The Roadster uses 19mm less offset each side, thereby giving the increased rear track of 38mm over the narrower Smart 450 ForTwo. The offset of the rear rims on a Smart 450 ForTwo is ET(-)1 whereas the offset of the rear rims on a Smart 452 Roadster is ET(-)20. Notice, that these rims use a negative offset, whereas most cars nowadays use a positive offset. Only if you fitted rims with an offset of ET0 (ie. zero offset) would the track correspond to the axle width.