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Personally id be asking what they mean by glazed... A glazed disc is an interesting one seen as it is a smooth surface... Not a glazed pad is another thing when it gets too hot and is like a piece of glass and reduced brake action ensues. Pads they wouldnt know without removing. And why the inner face and not the outer? Is it cause you cant see it maybe. Personally id be looking elsewhere for a second opinion on this 'glazed' disc. All this talk of glazed is making me want a krispy kreme!

Use Fuchs 502 00 rated, 5w40. Mainly because of the childishly amusing mame.

I'd advise taking it to a normal garage and getting them checked. If there's something up you can get them replaced there and have enough change from the dealer quote for a nice meal out.

Because thats the button they press to add that line to the service invoice. "Onset of inner face glazing" is one they have thought long and hard about while dreaming up, impossible to challenge. At 12 months and that mileage I would bet that the inner face is pretty much the same as the outer face and nowhere near needing replacement.

No-one takes any notice because I don't witter on endlessly and I just tell it like it is.

I do work in the industry and have done for many years. No finanical interest as my 1st comment on this post clearly shows im telling him that it sounds like a load of rubbish and to take it elsewhere for a second opinion. An MOT may not give that to him clearly and ive outlined that to him perfectly. Im not blindly telling him there is no issue without having first inspected the car, like you just have. Fraud in the industry is rife I agree, and it winds me up how much of it goes on with large chains and small garages. I work for myself on my days off and pride myself on open and transparent work on peoples cars that im sure many on here can back me up on. I wont be responding any further to you as it seems youre just looking for an argument, Ive made clear facts to him, Ive aired on the side of caution as its safety related and suggested a second opinion is best and an MOT is not a suitable second opinion in all cases as it is simply the bare minimum and doesnt mean it is 100% safe. Plain and simple as that, no need for any further debating, its all love here.

Sorry but i disagree with a lot of what youve said. An MOT is the bare minimum standard a car has to meet - in no way is a guarantee that its at the safest level it can be. A brake disc can be 49% heavily corroded on both sides and the caliper could be half seized. As long as it passes the brake roller test it is a pass and advise. Does not mean its safe or acceptable. Im not saying what the garage is advising is true, but im saying an MOT is not a true test of a cars safety as much as youd like and hope to think so. And regarding OEM quality brake discs for under £32? Id very much like to know what or how you define OEM quality and where youre finding discs for under £32? You might be finding cheap brands like Eicher but they definately are not quality parts and wont last nearly as long as some premium brands. EDIT: A quote from the gov.uk website to back up my statement https://www.gov.uk/government/news/mot-changes-20-may-2018

Can they explain the phenomenon of "disc glazing"? I certainly can't and I am aware of pad glazing.

We must have moved on from the thousands of warped discs now to glazing.

Have a look on line at the price!!!! Bulbs don't have a sell buy date

You can't have fast spool with a big turbo on a small engine, deleting the supercharger just makes it worse because net gasflow drops even more. Rallycross monsters used to inject fuel and air directly into the turbo like a rocket engine to make them spool faster, the downside was a huge jet of flame out of the exhaust. With the 1.4 TSI I'd be looking to maximise area under the curve, not create a gearbox smashing surge of power up the top at the expense of driveability and reliability. Headline figures are for dunces.

Order date was 14th of July 2021.

Just to add it's not all about hardware version. My vRS was one of the first, is still on 1668 software, and has not had any issues other than I'd like wireless Android auto to work but can't be bothered to book it in for the upgrade....

On my Specialised Levo with a 'Hack' for speed but no 'Dongle' the wheel circumference is reset to cheat the Brose motor / controller. On my Cannondale / Bosch motor i have a Chip / Dongle allowing 'Offroad' mode in the UK. (28 mph max assistance) 2255 mm is the standard wheel circumference, and this can be reset.

My Orbea, Bosch 4 motor, has a magnet bolted to the rear wheel near the disc mounts and the pickup on the swing arm. I'm guessing it's calibrated by Bosch to rotate at that distance from axle for 29 wheels, possibly moved slightly for 27.5? Is it possible that when de-restricting the magnet is moved further out to fool the pickup re wheel speed?

I guess things are moving forward a bit, we should all be getting some info soon 🤞

Hi guys. I just received very positive news. My sales rep. just called to inform me that my car is finished with production and that it is currently in trasport to Croatia. He said that I can expect that the car will be delivered in 2-3 weeks. Through conversation he also told me that he was in disbelief when the system showed him my car is in transfport because he has some cases of Octavias not being delivered even though they were ordered in April 2021, so he called the factory just to confirm that system is showing correct status for my Octavia and they told him that there is no mistake and that the car is in transport. My order: Octavia Style 1.5 TSI manual (additionaly, I added rear camera and Pulsar Aero wheels).

Spark plugs come pre-gapped so when you have the correct new plugs for the car you take then out the box, remove the plastic or cardboard sleeve protecting the plug end. You inspect the gap, you measure the gap and fit the plugs without knocking / dropping them. Reason being. Someone else might of had those new plugs, looked at them decided they were wrong and hand we d then back. Assuming a pre-set gap is correct is a common error even professionals make because they were trained by someone wow also did that.

Just got a confirmation. My car is finished, and will be at the dealers in 2-3 weeks. Hope it doesn’t fall out of the truck 😂

I see, yes. Basically it reveals whose dealer has been on the map and honest about upcoming situations. By the way, there is a bug on the line 47. If the estimates are not filled the delay formula doesn't work as intended. I made the "Graphs" sheet. Hopefully someone finds it useful as well. Next goal would be to make some history view. To save some data lets say monthly and graph something out of that.

Just picked up our facelift Karoq yesterday and started to try and learn things from the manual. Aaaaarrrgh! The people who write these things must have no idea what it must be like for a new owner to find out how it all works writing such nonsense as: "Engine is not switched off via the START-STOP system due to the operating conditions that are not met" is one gem. We worked out most of the sat-nav system yesterday afternoon, despite the owners manual which is misleading and downright wrong in some paragraphs. I've been to the online manuals and they're even worse, the left hand location menu resets so you can't read the Function/settings one after the other. I've just gone back to the bookmarked online manual to find a Skoda foreign language page demanding an email and password that was not needed ten minutes ago! With all the work that goes into developing such great cars, why can't someone devise a useful owner's manual with ways to achieve everyday tasks instead of a sketchy button by buttton nonsense?

As Sepulchrave already told you in your other thread, the timing probably slipped.

A cracking choice of wheel. They should look really good on the estate.

Or not there (blocked) in this case judging by the video.

So if the OP's car is 1 year old or younger and 10,000 miles or less all the crap about replacing discs now is really not relevant unless they are gubbed. It is a shame that customers pay good money to Main Dealers to be left unsure if they are lying barstewards that are upselling or actually honest & trying to keep the customers safe. We mostly know the answer to that one.

Both wheels are really nice, but I agree with you bud that maybe due to the smaller size the TD's do look a little small, even when compared the standard spiders? 🤔 I have been trying to decided whether my next set of wheels will be 18" or 17" after my drama with the Ronals. But after much thought I've gone with the 18's and hope that the fact I've picked Speedlines they're going to be much lighter than the Ronals these should drive much better! Very similar to your Ultraleggera's.

Then you buy bulbs from a Motor Factor because someone is always selling them bellow RRP. They are not yet like Sunflower Oil or Toilet rolls.

Clock’s running 😎

But then you have a warning on your dash all the time

It is. I'm waiting for it to be really sunny so I can do the car inside and out. Could be waiting a while for sun in Scotland.

Is this the 'before' shot then? Gaz

I would have thought both sides ought to be similarly affected unless the caliper carrier is not free to float the pads away from the disc surface when not baraking.

Well, Skoda Main Stealers are rather inclined to just load the parts cannon rather than try to diagnose the actual fault. It keeping happening just means that they've not done the actual fix yet I'm afraid (hence the suggestion of an independent VAG specialist). As an example, I phoned A for Audi to ask for a quote for a replacement cambelt for my Skoda and got the reply "That's £X, including a new water pump and retiming the fuel pump." A main stealer would not change the water pump unless explicitly asked but it's a good precautionary change when the belt's out anyway.

XCR is the bottom end of Suntour air....perfectly usable unless you're doing full on downhill stuff, if you're even thinking of changing then possibly not the right bike/price? Possibly not as much adjustment as Recons but as long as you can set compression and rebound it's tuneable to a degree. My Orbea I've literally just set the sag and put everything else in the middle 😀....works so far. The Fox 34s on the Whyte hardtail I've played with a tad more and I do adjust the tyre pressures to suit conditions more.

Are these figures correct? At 50 mph in top my engine will be lower than 2000 rpm. Found this:- Top speed/rpm at 70mph 114mph/2,800rpm Thanks, AG Falco

Thank you

Thanks for your reply. I will probably do that. I had a look on ebay last night, found some for under $50 including shipping. Yes the current one is with the teabag, another reason to get a new one.

I'd love to be able to change my settings.... With the lower spec Bosch displays it's limited I think and dealer only, not too sure on top end stuff, I know there is an app for them?

Yes I will probably go for a build kit, my concern was that on most it doesn't say whether the primer or colour are VHT CANDY CALIPER KITS HIGH TEMP CANDY APPLE GREEN + PRIMER+BASE 400ML SPRAY CAN X3 | eBay This is probably the one will go with as it says all layers are VHT (I would be a little sceptical as other sellers say that they are VHT, however, only become VHT once they put on the final protective coat. This seller gives a lot more info than most. Ill be making my decision tomorrow ill keep posted

A month ago I paid the tuners whose remap I used (Celtic Tuning) to remove or roll back the "Emissions fix" software, I was fed up with the frequency of regens regardless of the driving conditions, it was regenning 3 or 4 times a tank of fuel even if I drove 500 miles on autoroutes on a wide throttle opening towing a heavy trailer. At my destination I was doing an 18km commute which was enough to trigger a regen but not long enough to complete, I had just done 500 miles passive regenning all the way, the measured soot was virtually zero but the calculated was at the 22 or 25g threshold, at the end of every journey the rad fan was running to show an incomplete regen. It was definitely ignoring the measured soot values and regenning on the calculated ones, my neighbours car that has never had the fix did the opposite, the calculated values would actually come down on VCDS after he had driven for 10 miles at speed. A month after having the fix unfixed I have done another 2000 miles if not more and never once heard the radiator fans, I have been checking the kms since the last regen and its currently on about 900 kms (VCDS shows it in meters yet calls it kms) and 13g calculated, 3g measured so it has regenned once, maybe twice but probably on the autoroute journeys. The engine does sound sweeter and more responsive, hard to say if the economy has increased because of the differing journeys that I am doing, it is definitely no worse and on a 40km B & C (equivalent) road journey with litte traffic I have exceeded 60mpg a couple of times which I never managed before. The anxiety of leaving a vehicle with the fans running and not being confident that they would stop has now gone!

Well done.

I had a Badass dongle on mine to de-restrict it. These are little square boxes that cover the speed sensor and trick it, also fooling the speedo - mine would show 4 to 9mph when I might've been doing 28 to 30mph. Some people move the speed sensor and magnet onto the pedal arm. Google will be your friend on the most obvious ways to de-restrict that particular motor, so how to look for what's been done. I now prefer the 15.5mph cut-off as keeping it above that gives me much more exercise. Weather's gonna be nice tomorrow Gaz

Luckypants, the first year of the Powerpass is free, then becomes a subscription thereafter if you wish to continue with it.

A little update I went to have a look at the bike today and intending a test ride. I checked out the property online first and was nicely surprised that it was a decent property and area and they had lived there for about 15 years. Indian English family mum dad and son. twas the sons bike. Well, two almost flat tyres and them not having a pump (any kind of pump it seemed) put a damper on the test ride. I took my shock pump but never expected flat tyres. I took it up and down the street very carefully but told them I needed a proper ride to even consider an offer. We have agreed that I will return tomorrow with a tyre pump for me to take a proper test ride. (I intend letting the air back out of the tyres before I return the bike. I will tell them that the tyres are loosing air ........ I'm not daft, Lol) Not the best looked after bike, needs a full service ideally. I can probably do the forks (I do my Rockshox Recon's myself) and do the brakes but I ended up taking my Ario rear shock to Evans for them to do .......... so expenses to pay out. Gonna see how it goes / feels tomorrow (weather permitting) . The other thing is that it has been de-restricted. The seller advertised this and to be fair a mate of mine says these need de-restricting as once the assistance cuts out at the usual 15.5mph, you are then left fighting against the motor / gearbox (something like that. The issue is that it has not been set up correctly as it doesn't display the correct speed. It displays slower than what you are going. I need to find out what has been done regarding this. @Gaz @olduns @roottoot or others. Anyone know how the bike works out it's speed, how it is supposed to work, at least. Cheers guys.

Dealership servicing on any car is a rip off (I know as I used to work as a technician at franchised dealers). Brake fluid change is ballcocks anyway, it should be tested and if it’s ok, it’s ok. Pollen filter is easy to change and 2 years is probably a reasonable comprise on time/mileage. Everything else is a visual check as per what is done on ice vehicles plus looking at any visible high voltage cables, which could only suffer if externally damaged. The main thing the dealer can actually do is plug it into Skodas mothership and update the software. Dealers are going to want some way of making back the money they will be forced to spend on ev training and equipment. Personally I check tyre tread and pressures every month and top up the washers but realise not every one can or will do this.

I think that in this “2-3 weeks” is transport+deconservation (i think that is in Logatec+cleaning+final transport to dealer. if i waited 10 months, i can another 3 weeks 😂

I vote to delete the current delivery estimate and keep the original delivery estimate. It doesn't make sense to calculate delay from current delivery estimate as people will update that value if they have new estimate. And actual delivery date will tell if the car is there or not. I don't trust the people will update their lines that often that current delivery estimate keeps up to date. It would be nice to see if dates start to be close to each others meaning cars would be coming out from the factory. But as history has shown us there are no accurate delivery dates currently. To keep the spreadsheet "clean".

One from Sunday.

Just tried adding my VIN (that i got cca 2 months ago) to Škoda connect app and it found my car. The last time i tried it was yesterday, but it didn't let me in... Hope that means i will get my car soon. The dealer thinks the same, that the car is finished and waiting transport

It is a tsi as a 3 cylinder 1.4 TDI was not 110ps. First it gets up to an efficient temp. The efficient oil temperature is around the 92*oC indicated it gets to, and this is around the coolant temp. When the oil gets hotter into the high 90's, low 100 and a bit the system is trying to get the oil back down to the 90 *oC ish temp. In the UK even if it gets to minus 15*oC ambient the oil will get to 50*oC indicated in about 10 miles, then keep going up to above 80*oC even if you are running quite slow. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/454977-oil-temperature