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@HMSWoofDog Welcome to the forum. Worth reading the owners manual on Driving in / running in a new car and also on oil. The Owners Manuals have been saying the same thing for more than a decade on the oil use in the first 5,000 km.

Despite all the internet shrieking I use and have always used an ancient round bar clamp designed specifically for hydraulic hoses, this prevents any loss of fluid or ingress of air while removing calipers etc. As for changing the minute amount of fluid trapped in the ABS block, who cares, if you've changed 99.5% of the brake fluid then that's plenty good enough, rather like engine oil you'll never get the whole lot anyway.

The problem is in your head, not the ABS block, if there's no trapped air in the system then you don't need to bleed it, once you have a solid pedal with new fluid then it's job done. Air can't get into the ABS block unless you allow the reservoir to run dry during bleeding. So it's nonsense and there's nothing to worry about.

Got my photos back from the day that the car had a fit when I was travelling to Largs. Turned out alright though. And then some from Dunaskin... Some more on my Flickr account too. Just done with my scanner after being shot on Kodak ProImage 100 ('coz it's cheap, innit) with my Canon EOS1000F.

You’ll never know how much oil has been lost if you have never checked it in a year, and you are assuming it was at the correct level post pdi . How much oil did it take to return to correct level?

That's because it's completely knackered, go and buy another one.

I still have the all stainless steel one (including the pivot hand rivets) that I made as an apprentice, it is always carried in the car and has got me out of trouble many times to isolate one wheel when a brake cylinder has failed usually when collecting a new acquisition. In hindsight I should never have stamped my name on it just in case one day the worse happens!

That's exactly what I did. I was doing a normal brake bleed and while going round the wheels the pressure bleeder fell over, and its tube came out of the fluid. The first I knew was air being forced out a rear brake nipple and not fluid. So I'd managed to push air the whole way through. I agree to get air in the ABS you would of had to done something similar. I'd be surprised if just changing a wheel caliper would do that unless you let the brake system gravity drip a long time and empty itself. I normally put a piece of cling film over the reservoir and screw the lid back on to create a vacuum lock to stop dripping when I'm changing flexible hoses/calipers etc. But totally agree you would of had to of done something to get air in the ABS, as it's not an easy thing to do.

Depends a bit how you want to go about it. My rear calipers seized up on the octavia when it was sat for a while, and I just needed the car back on the road quick, so I bought a couple from https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk really good company to deal with, prices are fair (unlike ECP and GSF online where they wind the prices up then have a sale most of the time which brings it down to an OK-ish price). If you put your car details in the comments, they double check everything's right before they send the order. https://www.biggred.co.uk/ will refurbish your calipers really well and send them back to you. They take a few days, but do such a nice job, you probably end up with something that's better than a new caliper. If you've got the time and tools, DIYing a rebuild isn't too bad. Always put a new pot in though, whether it needs it a not and take your time getting everything spotless. The thing is, your parts bill can go a fair way towards the cost of either a caliper, or getting someone else to rebuild it. If you're up for taking a chance on a quick bodge. You can often free a rear caliper up reasonably well with some release spray and giving the pot a turn with a set of plumbers grips before putting the windback on. It might not work, and it probably will seize again, but it might get you going for now.

It’s always been necessary to clean the Haldex filter- unfortunately Skoda did not admit there was even a filter there and just the changed oil. This led to many Haldex failures where despite oil change the still blocked filter caused them to fail catastrophically. Some dealers were more proactive and the filter was cleaned on my Yeti 2 years ago when that had its Haldex serviced. I asked for it to be done and they said it was always done there. To access the filter the Haldex has to be drained and then opened.

You need to clean it up first if you want to see where it's coming from, otherwise we're all just guessing and that makes for a messy and stupid thread.

I had the same problem, i couldn't find in the local market that part even as Used so i thought that i could make a patent. I bought one from the front door which is a little bit longer and my mechanic shorten it. I know does not look like the factory but it's not easily visible by everybody. No problem with water, tested multiple times in purpose with garden hose plus many heavy rains in winter.

Clumber Park was lovely in the late afternoon sunshine

Somebody had been very busy (and rather ingenious) at Clumber Park today

Yeah, battery light comes on. Will try tomorrow with another battery. Hope it's that simple, the battery dosent seem to hold charge even after being on charge.

Sounds like a duff battery? Does the battery light come on when you put the ignition on (engine not started)?

As long as the fuel has no carbon, ie it is converted to run on hydrogen or hydrogen dirivative that is fine. Every gram of carbon burnt moves us closer to the apocalypse, maybe not our lifetime but for those that follow.

I had 600 miles worth of free charging yesterday and today but it was a fiasco at 6 am this morning and not that much fun yesterday with Charger Wars and the hopelessness of Charge Place Scotland and some local authorities. I met 3 company drivers that are now going back to diesels as they are peed off with the carry on of charging. One driver of a £95,000 EV Merc that has to do lots of miles is going back to a ICE Jag and does not care about the fuel expense or BIK but acually getting places. The Merc only charges at 100 kW max and is not efficient. ......................... 5,000 miles has disappeared off what my car thinks it has done, but in total with this car and other evs i have done over 35,000 miles for less than £100 paid for electricity and 2 x CPS cards.

The important thing to take from that TED talk is we should really all be driving V8s

He is right that we must look at "System Boundaries", the proper name for is box analogy, and the most important system boundary is the one of the Earth's atmosphere, and that CO2 figure continues to rise...... Lithium requires about 60 kWh of energy to produce every kilogram of Lithium, all in, so with such figures in mind I suppose we to calculate how many kilometres /miles we need to use to drive our EVs to break even in the CO2 stakes. Company I work for make solid state LIthium batteries (LMP type) and we are also one of the world's largest logistics companies and we and many of our clients are prioiritising CO2 and sustainability. EVs, and I mean trucks, vans, cars and motorcycle run on electricity from renewables or nuclear and the need to stop using coal, then Hydro-carbon oil then HC gas is a world wide push. Europe well down the road to achieving zero CO2 for power production with America and Asia paced redoubled this year with the price rise in oil and gas, unless you are China and get a third off Russian oil price as mates rates. If the LIthium refining and car manufacturing is carbon free we have a glorious rounded process of being powered by sunshine and wind, and the power of fission for those dark and windless times.

I worked on the pre-production prototype of the MX5 that was shown or due to be shown at (I believe) the Paris motor show. It was only really a mule to show the styling and concept, the mechanics were a hodge podge of stuff copied from other vehicles for expediency, I remember they had an RX7, a Scimitar SS1 (I think) and one other vehicle stripped out to copy various parts & mechanisms, they were bought new from the dealers anonymously with cash and never registered. Then the prototype MX5 had a hard folding tonneau cover behind the rear seats to hide the ragtop just like the Triumph Stag, it had 2 moulded humps in it behind driver & passenger heads like the racing Jaguars, cant recall what Jag series but I'm sure you know which one I mean. I also worked on the Metro 6R4 that was homologated, it had been run in a rally series the year before on 13" wheels (I think) and pretty much standard bodywork with just subtly flared arches, it was a real wolf in sheeps clothing and to me much better looking than the Group B one on steroids that we designed, the change was caused by the tyre manufacturer (cant recalll who) only committing to making a limited range of compounds for the following season hence the change to much bigger and wider wheels and the bodywork & styling changes to accomodate them. Sorry for not recaling details, it was a long time ago, 1985 or 6 I reckon. Superb money, the highest contract rates at the time and the most hours available but surprisingly the work was very boring and uninspiring. I went from there to military vehicle conversions which I enjoyed a lot more.

How can it be flexible if it has a solid core, it doesn't make any sense. Flexible hydraulic hoses have a braided core that can be steel or nylon depending on the pressure rating, I've never heard of alloy braiding though.

You might want to look at Mib Tool which you can install in the green menu but you need a module for your firmware release, failing that the enthusiasts that support the tool have to write you one for free. Once the module is installed it gives you control over the FeCs. So you could add your missing FeC code, it also has the ability to remove duplicate FeCs. It's been used on Seats to remove duplicate FeCs where a retrofitter made a pigs ear of some work and screwed up the navigation FeCs. There might be Briskoda experts on the board on another thread on this, but it's all the same tool across VAG developed by European Mib2 enthusiasts. It can be found in Https://mibsolution.one Login guest Password guest It's sits in M.I.B where they don't know about your firmware you upload the backup it generates into M.I.B_Backup I believe they have slightly changed the way it's packaged since I used it. It's one of these thing you use once. Then I had one of the Seat experts to write me the module for my firmware. He also sorted out the guy with the duplicate FeCs. How the group works is they have experts in the brand so I expect you need to make contact with one if your firmware isn't within the tool. They do look in the return directory. 3.1.7 is what I used, they are on 3.2.0 now. I didn't find a match on the board for Skoda experts in this. Those Audi people of recent asking map questions will have passed through the link on firmware using an AIO version I suspect which combines the firmware with mib tools to add FeCs in an easy update. Due to you using online probably not a good idea to go for a complete firmware update but a FeC tinkering tool. In mib tool it does list the firmware it works with across the brand once you have it on an SD card. You can nose around seeing whether they have a patch written. Addfec.txt is then edited in notepad to add anything unlisted. I see they have your media one dropped. You should just be able to edit it in. The Seat one is dropped on the same basis. After tinkering, you reboot the unit, long press and go to the FeC listing screen. Mibwiki supports the link. Google on that as well. Being computer programmers they can be exacting 😉. I can look at back posts to see how duplicate FeCs are removed. It can be done in the tool or a module run. Where it came to pass that the Seat guy didn't need the extra programming help it was in the tool. Basically the tool packages retrofitters techniques but in the car in a user friendly way as possible.

Cars ordered more than 1 year ago, are still waiting with no info. I don't see how new orders can have 1 year waiting time. Orders are just piling up.

Last Group ride for 4 weeks....

Stretch the hole😎

I rebuilt mine several times but never overcame the problem of the auto-adjuster not working, it was not clear which way round the seals went and I think someone had been there before me and failed. Eventually I bought a pair of new Chinese calipers for next to nothing from Maxspeedingrods (google them) who sell on ebay and also direct, they worked perfectly. I am very obstinate and made many attempts to repair the calipers with seal kits. But as MicMac says, if its just a seized piston then usually its just elbow grease required.

Pretty sure they'll all be there. At least two on page 1 for instance G01& L18. Press the + button, middle of header, to zoom in for easier reading.

Yes, I suppose so. What I think I’m understanding from this is that the fluid in the ABS is not flushed out as part of a normal fluid flush and it needs VCDS to open valves in the unit. On a similar theme, the fluid leading to the clutch slave cylinder is not flushed out either unless you ask as part of the brake flush. last year I had the clutch changed in my Fabia and I watched as the fluid was flushed through to the bleeder block and it came out a very dark brown. Probably never been done in the previous 16 years.

As part of a fluid change? If so, then the VCDS bleed is the only way to guarantee you change the fluid in the ABS valve block.

Not sure; I've asked whether that is relative or absolute pressure on Amazon.

Hahaha brilliant, that was like a comedy sketch:)

That's only a few of them Lee, often missing handy ones like the front brake PR code. The full car data runs to a few pdf pages of codes, with brief definitions of each; much more comprehensive. A helpful dealership parts counter person may provide the car data pdf FOC if you ask nicely.

VCDS and VAGCom are 2 different names for the same software tool. VCDS is more recent. 1 bar is 15 PSI so you can definitely eliminate (2) from your shopping list.

You don't have to buy standard shocks and springs from the dealer, pattern stuff will be just fine and a lot cheaper, try a set of Lemforder springs with Bilstein B4 shocks all round. You can buy them off ebay, from your local factors or even mail order from Autodoc.

It sounds like the issue we had with our first Roomster, in the end it needed a new lock/catch. I am not sure what you have done to try and get the door open, but I found if had the engine running I would sit in the car, lock the doors using the interior locking button then unlock the doors whilst simultaneously pulling latch on the door in question. In the end the novelty had worn off so I replaced with a new imported unit for around €120 (about €100 less than dealer prices) only for the car to be written off a few months later.

Are these guys any use... https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/pumps/generation-2-pump-haldex-vw-audi-seat-skoda-0av598549a/ https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/repair-and-service-kits/gen-2-haldex-pump-replacement-kit-for-vw-audi-seat-skoda-0av598548a/ Not sure what shipping will cost...

Well..here we go again. 2nd set of headlights (1st ones changed under warranty for same issue)..again cracks. Talked to the dealer, they submited photos to Skoda..we’ll se what will be outcome.

There is no answer to that They are all good makes Its personal preference I for one like Ina kits good price and never had a problem with them👍

To all 3 of you who have replied, thanks very much, looks like its a seam then. Ken, my tank is shaped like yours, the line only goes halfway to the rim, not all the way bottom to top on both halves. Silly mistake on my part, apologies. JR, I take your point about the silicon, it wouldnt help, you too feel its a seam/mould line so thats good. AG Falco you have been very clear as you always are and have described exactly what I have seen, the bottom half only, from where the coolant comes in up to the halfway point, I feel relieved. Turning to your question: have I replied to the last thread I started about the oil temperature? I havent yet. I only got back last night from a night away in North Wales last night that was great but everywhere was very busy and I was really tired so hadnt got round to it. Excuses over, very happy to reply to you though, I have read all the info you sent me most has been absorbed and I will go back to check it all out again. I checked the oil temperature 2 or 3 times after travelling for at last half an hour or more. The outside temperatures were 17/18 degrees C and the oil temps showed up as 94 and 95 degrees C. If I had been permitted by the North Wales highways authorities to travel at the right speed for the surroundings, ie 70mph,( long stretches of the A5 with no dwellings at all but still restricted to 50mph for some inexplicable reason and very regular speed warning signs) and the outside temp had been higher I am sure the oil temp would have been high 90s or low 100s.

It would be very useful to have the car's build codes. This will allow you to use the Skoda parts catalogue on 7zap to find the OEM part numbers for the parts that were originally fitted. You can get the car's build codes by going on the "skoda erwin" website. They do charge about 7 Euros for one hour's access, but that should be enough time to obtain all the build codes. https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Another way is to use an Italian seller on ebay who can send you your build codes for about 3 Euros. Google "skoda VIN decoder" on ebay to find the listing. He has 100% positive feedback.

That's an amazingly circular mini rainbow!

Totally agree, for some unknown reason, people (mainly Chargemaster/Polar/Pulse (same company)) seems to think plunk down a rapid charger middle of nowhere is okay. Mid-journey rapid charger hubs really need to be built like petrol stations, for example: Gridserve forecourt https://www.gridserve.com/2020/12/06/gridserve-opens-uks-first-electric-forecourt/ For slow charging, it'll be same as regular car park, I don't see any need for worry. Dwell time at those locations will be minimum, very little difference to currently.

So as requested by @coppertop heres an update to the rear remote seat release - this was done on an estate and there are slight variants in part numbers depending on model shape and trim colour. So the simple method would be to just buy a rear bench with the feature already installed but not many superbs being broken and fewer with this feature means its fairly uncommon. Everything works perfectly but there is 2 snags! - You have to cut your fabric to allow the brackets to fit! - There are 2 part numbers for the main metal frames - each cost £450, the difference between them is unclear physically but parts show 1 is remote release, 1 is standard. Now the job is complete I can tell you the difference, the remote release ones have a sprung loaded bushing on the outside edge, this is to force the seats flat once the lever is pulled - Im not paying £900 for 2 seat backs and you cant buy just the bushing seperately. I dont have a remote bushing so cant tell you how it works but im guessing just a coil spring and some plastic. Im hoping to work out a DIY solution in the future. Now regarding parts, there are only 4 bits required. - Lever for each side - etka shows cables are seperate but take note - THEY ARE INTEGRAL and buying the lever will come with cables too. - Cable and connector for each side - this part clips into the latch on each seat and has a 30cm cable and a plastic bracket that clips into the seat. the lever cable clips into this - A black plastic cover that goes over the cable connector and guides the cable out the bottom of the seat. - hog ring/C clips for when the seat is stripped down Parts arent crazy money and cost about £100 all in. Im not gonna do be doing a write up for this one as its fairly self explanatory and just involves youtube and learning to reupholster a seat cushion and how to fit hog ring clips, and how to strip the cover off the seat. Below are some pictures for guides

Just got a confirmation. My car is finished, and will be at the dealers in 2-3 weeks. Hope it doesn’t fall out of the truck 😂

I see the 'enemy' were present too... In the form of a Trojan (AKA Heinkel) bubble car.

Never really been one for cleaning but as my jetwash hose burst it gave me the perfect excuse to get a new hose with a short quick release trigger and foam cannon. Also autobrite had an Easter sale so picked a few bits up. Doesn't scrub up to bad.

Scrubs up alright

If anyone is being put off the idea of using this service due to the 'downtime' or inconvenience of having to visit the car twice, once to remove the module, once a few days later to refit the repaired original, I may be able to offer a slightly different arrangement. An exchange system where part of the price is refundable on receipt of your original. You let me know you need a replacement/repair job, either by posting in this thread or private message. Include full car details (year/model/number of electric windows) please. If I have a repaired and fully functional unit suitable for your car, I'll let you know. The initial price will be higher than for a repair, but there will be a proportion of the price that will be refundable once I receive your original, non-working motor module in return. It will have to be that exact module (the original your car was built with), so I know which car it suits. You would pay up front, receive a working motor module in the post from me a couple of days later, swap that into your car and send me the original in the post. This way you can get in behind the door-card just the once, to remove original and fit replacement. £119 for this variant, with £60 of that as a refund to be returned to you once I have your original in hand. So final cost to you will be £59 plus your postage cost for the return. I think the added convenience of this for you, my customer, may be attractive? If I have your unit type available, it'll be already packaged ready to post, so I should be able to post it out the day you message me if it's before about 4pm and we can sort payment out promptly (mouse over my username on the left to get a pop-up including 'Message' option) .

Been putting this job off for a while now. Thought I'd best attack it and get all the crappy damaged stonechip off and straighten the sills. This is what you get for not checking behind the inner arches and jacking on the sills. Off to a mates for reconstructive surgery soon so hopefully be as good as new