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I drove to a Skoda store this morning. (Not the same one I ordered my car at a year ago, because that store has been sold to another company lately, but to a store which belongs the same company I ordered from.) Did this just to take a look at the new Octavias, as I am still desperately waiting, and to ask if there is any hope. Got to hear that my car is already at Hanko, which is the place all the new cars arrive here in Finland. Unexpected good news! We booked a time for collecting in the end of august, but it can also be earlier. Must say though, that a week less or more is nothing after one year´s waiting.

got my car today and done a 30 mile run on motorways and side roads with no problems at all.touch wood.now going to trawl through everything to get the settings i want.no dubt i will be asking how to do certain these because i am not up to speed with all of this high tech stuff.

Are we somewhere near to the (only) pressurised oil feed from block up to head in your photo? Marked red in the gasket pic here:

Mines proper belt and braces. Source file backed up to NAS They are backed up to a Desktop USB Drive My NAS also has 2nd Desktop USB Drive that is backed up to weekly, and has versioning control (lives in fireproof safe) Files I cannot download again, so family photos etc, get copied from the NAS backed up to password protected files, before being uploaded to one of my old NAS units offsite. And then my NAS also backs up to a 3rd NAS (yes I have 3x NAS systems) offsite in another location with versioning controls also. I need a nuclear war to take out my data, but I will be crispy, so not too worried about files at that point.

There's no rule, it is up to the individual whether they want to give up the spot. Hybrids don't self charge, they pollute and burn fossil fuel to get energy to charge their battery. 100% of their energy comes from fossil fuel. Plug-in hybrids can charge by either burn fossil fuel or plug in to the grid where an ever increasing portion of electricity is generated via renewables. But the difference between PHEV and pure EV is that PHEV can continue their journey on fossil fuel, so unable to plug in does not affect their schedule. Whereas unable to plug in in pure battery EV will mean they need to stop mid-journey to rapid charge, making journey time longer. So Richard is being nice to EV owners who can benefit the most from able to plug in.

Insufficient evidence. You need to visually inspect, and feel with fingertips any areas that you can't get eyes on. This is an extreme example of what can happen:

Got news today. My vRS iV has arrived at my country. Guestimate is that i might have it in two weeks.

Thanks for the answers/debate. I myself when I first got a car with SS, I was cringing thinking that it would chew starter/kill battery... but my own long term experience was positive, no issues whatsoever. I absolutely appreciate the concern, and agree if you have concerns get it disabled. I mostly adapted my driving style to negate a fair few of the SS chances, by approaching lights at slower speeds if they were red at a distance. Main thing is to enjoy our cars, and disabling it won't hurt it.

It can get confusing for people when multiple threads about the same thing are open so I'll lock this one.

If so, try tightening the nearest two headbolts a little?

I only had one passenger in the rear but was fully loaded with luggage, food, etc. I put 35 in front and 45 in rear and nose weight was at 76kg. I also had a roof box on with about 30 kg in weight. The car towed beautifully all the way. In fact I hardly knew caravan was on the back. Only when white van man went past at 80 mph did I get the odd twitch and not much I can do about that. 😁

It's also well known (at least in the circles I move in) that Conti's have a harder substrait from about 3mm (German wear limit) on down.

The more dense they get the more risk, however if you keep them in a suitable case in a room that doesn't get too hot/cold and without lots of UV light, then they're just fine. At the end of the day, if you can reach a NAS or any other read/write medium from the main computer, then it can be hacked/corrupted too. It's a shame apple time machine type features are not a standard feature available in all OS also. Each item in a backup/archive strategy is just one layer, but the different layers protect against different risks.

Write once optical disks are almost essential as a backup, because they can't be altered once you've backed it up. Off site is an important, but hard to achieve component for most home IT users.

So I just changed my 1YO Duracell and its still reading 3.02V on a multimeter but like a good person I am changing it. One thing I did notice is that the Duracells have an anti-child casing but also an anti-die if you swallow sticky label on the minus side.I removed this last year (obviously) but on the old battery I noticed a small sliver of tape that did not come off when I ripped off the sticker last time round. It was totally invisible 1 year ago but age,air and dust has made it more noticable. It goes virtually half way around the rim of the minus side as you can see. I wonder if some folk are leaving this bit of tape attached and, if you pop the battery in and this bit of tape happens to be where the contacts are - it may stop it working properly (or at all). One to watch out for 🙂 I have half peeled it off the old Duracell CR2025 battery so you can see what I mean:

Yep - I have an online back up of everything work related plus off line copies and three back ups of personal stuff like photos (external HDD, portable HDD and portable SSD). What I need to do is get my daughter into the same frame of mind and get her to think about security and avoiding viruses / malware (I've already added Malwarebytes and the like to the new laptop and got rid of a load of guff software from it she'll never need).

Good shout @EnterName this is often overlooked when people buy IT equipment. They later complain their homework/wedding pics/family photos are in the computer and the hard drive has failed or a rampant virus has chewed them up and spat them out.

External 2.5" WD drives are reliable and pretty sensibly priced. Very handy for back-ups and making sure important college work doesn't get lost. EDIT: I only ever bought one of their 3.5 external drives and it failed pretty quickly. Also needing external power other than the USB connection was a pain. But I have a load of their external 2.5" Passport drives, and they are all still going strong, even my old 250GB USB-2 speed drives which I bought off Play.com what seems a lifetime ago. I've got one 4T drive which is a bit noisy, but hasn't put a foot wrong, reliability wise.

5E0919605H is MIB2 screen so glove box unit must be exchanged as well

Some (very) rough maths. High pressure fuel pump is between £500-£600 Injectors seem to vary wildly in price, £150-£300+ with VAT on top, depending on whether you go and which brand you choose. Timing belt (with water pump kit) is what, around £200 So that's certainly over £1000+ in parts, but let's limit it to £1000 to be conservative for this exercise. Multiply by 1.9 for (very) rough conversion to Euros = €1900 in parts. (Maybe more, maybe less.) Labour is about £60-£80/hour, which is €114-€152. (At same 1.9x rate) Call it €130 an hour. €3000-€1900 = €1100 labour cost, or a little over 8.4 hours work at €130 (9.6 hours at €114, 7.2 hours at €152) It's a lot of money, but from my Googling and fairly conservative maths, I'm not smelling a rat here, especially as I've been conservative with the part costs. I can imagine knocking 25%-35% off that labour cost at an independent, but the parts may be more or less than the numbers I got from Google. The question is, does all that work need doing? An expert diagnosis of the problem is needed. Regarding who does the repair work; if you get an independent to do the work, and they don't solve the problem, will they work at no extra cost to resolve the problem? (That should go for the Skoda dealer too.) Not sure what to suggest, TBH.

I am as well even though I do get called D1ck. George.

No. It is designed to be an automated manual and operate in D when you are braking. Then in manual It will ignore you if you choose a stupid low gear that will break the box. Or some like diesels that will drop too low might try to put you through the windscreen to teach you to be more careful.

Where are you based out of interest? id be looking at getting someone else to look at it, someone that specialises in diesel even. if it’s misfiring then fine it has a fault and yes if you keep driving it you can cause even more damage.

Terrible choice. There is so many better options. And Carista is expensive for what it is. you’re asking for best which will always have to be odis the genuine tool - costing nearly £10,000. now if you mean best for diy use at a reasonable price, then the only 2 valid options are vcds or obdeleven wouldn’t go for anything else personally

First world problem.

Checking the brake servo vacuum hose for splits at the ends of the hard plastic sections is always worth doing on any VW group car, in my experience.

Estate SE in Energy Blue 💙 Collected today.

Collected today and love it, love it, love it! I'll post in the pictures thread soon 🙂

Yes, the pump unit has failed but you're not listening any more, just mucking about swapping pretty coloured oils to no purpose.

Yep totally agree to be honest. It’s one of those typical debates that rages on across multiple threads. 🤓 I might end up leaving it at is.

I don't positively know this, but I think you may have found the very earliest stages of a blow in the head gasket.

Thank you guys. Super informative information! Much appreciated 👍 👍

Not sure how to check for that, what would I be looking for? As described, or you have a voltage across the battery terminals that's about 10 to 11v.

€1.9 = £1 is way way off the mark, it has never ever been anywhere near that figure. It has sat comfortably at or around €1.20 = £1 for several years and is at that exact figure today.

Welcome to the forum, noticed you are new user

Nope, they are not... If you have CANTON then stil you can get Android Auto and Apple CarPlay - you need to retrofit display unit, glove box unit, CANTON power amplifier and USB.

Maybe at some point Skoda & VW Group will apologise to customers who spent their money buying vehicles that came with Software not fit for purpose and had to spend their time and money back and fore getting fixes if they ever did without giving up on living. He is off with a smile on his face and loads of money in his financial package.. http://insideevs.com/news/600575/volkswagen-group-fired-diess-because-software-unit-fiasco

Thanks Paul, I appreciate you sharing your view and I think it is good advice. I won’t necessarily follow it, but it could help others. Will update this thread with any further developments. Tom.

Ps. Some owners leave cars so that when charged the plug can be removed. Tethered chargers. An id3 luckily for me last month as there were 1 hour there after charging stopped and I had no range. Kia Niro has a button at drivers knee to allow unplugging when charged.

Makes sense, I have heard of people unplugging the charging car and swapping it to theirs before. I guess you are living by the gentleman's code of getting out of the way for an EV user, kudos to you.

Out of curiousity, are there rules on charging? I presume each location has rules for how long you can charge, or is it a free for all? Only asking as you mentioned giving up your space if an EV pulls up, hybrids can self-charge etc. Is this a rule, or just plain good manners to give up a space for an EV owner?

While sitting charging I hear on the radio that Dundee has been chosen to build a factory for producing batteries. At the old Michelin tyre factory which is now a centre for technology and where SWARCO are based and CPS head quartered. Ps sitting charging on the local 4 Tesco chargers have 3 hybrids charging that will be here for hours. If an EV pulls up I will vacate this charger. If another hybrid does then tough they are out of luck.

Our dealer is a mile from us and they are trying. They are speaking to product specialists, who are speaking to higher up, who are getting answers from Korea (so they say). A german colleague who has one, has been told by their dealer after a complaint that there is definately an update for the MY22 cars. Currently with such long wait times for everything, I'm on the fence, however if I take it and that update didn't come then they will only get to screw me and anyone I talk to once.

I think it's more for the silk scarf on a Summer day 😊

It does not look good... (5) Cap fitted over the A/C vent port from 25.11.2019>> onwards 6 Air pipe from A/C to Glovebox vent hole up to >>24.11.2019 7 Valve for A/C setting, fitted to glovebox up to >>24.11.2019 I mean you could check yourself by removing glovebox, and try to locate the Cap, remove and switch on A/C Then if you get nice cold air, buy the hose and valve yourself Skoda will not pay for these parts if you car was built from 25.11.2019 onwards!

If the top speed of your car is more than 190km/h (118mph) but not more than 210km/h (130mph) then H-speed rated tyres are legal. Over-specifying tyres, such as fitting V, W, Y, etc. when your car doesn't go over 130mph will make the ride unnecessarily harder. The tyres will also be heavier which has a negative effect on fuel consumption. Over-specifying tyres, such as using XL (eXtra Load) when SL (Standard Load) will do, is also not a good idea for the same reasons as above. It's legal to over-specify tyres and sometimes necessary if the minimum specification isn't available in the tyre size that you want to fit. Bear in mind that in the UK the speed limit is never more than 70mph (even on motorways), so even tyres rated at 120km/h (75mph) may be legal. You can check the guidance for MOT testers on the government website for further information. However, it's quite rare for car tyres to be sold with a speed rating lower than T, ie. 190km/h (118mph).

4 years ago I enquired at Timpsons for a new fob for my MK1 Octy and they were the cheapest @ £80 for a direct copy in the end I bought a fob & virgin immob chip off eBay and with VagTacho read the immob PIN code then with VCDS cloned the key myself

I'm getting mine with DCC, and i was hoping the DCC "normal" would be same as standard vRS. Disapponting since the drive modes always reset on start. So i'll have to hit "invidual" every time i start the car IF it's really a bit softer than standard vRS. I was trying to figure this out before i made the order. Eventually i got the Challenge+ pack which came with DCC, so was just hoping that the DCC "Normal" is same as standard VRS. Would really like to know for a fact, how it is.

The best one in my opinion is vcds but you won't be able to add new key with it. With vcds you'll be able to read all modules and change some of the settings l, the price may vary for the tool depending how many vins you will need. When I bought my car I had similar problem with the keys the cheapest way for me was to make a clone of my existing key.

Thanks again. Managed to spray cleaner around the assembly, then gripped the knurled nut carefully with vice grips and rocked it gently while pulling upwards and the assembly popped out. The shaft and gear remained as it is a loose fit in the body, but I was able to remove it easily. Next step is to make up a proper locking plate, drain the old fluid, refill to correct level and replace the gear assembly and speedo cable and lock it in place. Thanks for your help and advice - now I know how it goes together (and comes apart) for the next time....