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Well 13.5 months waiting and I finally collected my Octy Estate vRS yesterday. I couldn't be happier 👍😀

I have to say I have largely ignored tyre pressures up until now. I won't be doing so again as I felt the Octy was far more sure footed towing with the increased pressures.

Thanks guys! I have a Roomster 1.6 -07 with the abs+esp+braking lights that turned on from nowhere. The mechanic checked for error codes and it was apparently the 00301. Would be quite expensive with a new abs unit så googled and found this excellent thread, a change of the 40A fuse solved the problem! As a bonus I actually noticed that the 50A steeringservo fuse right next to it looked somewhat broken (although not completely) and changed it as well, now the steering feels much smoother.

Secondhand prices have gone crazy so you should be able to pocket a few bob.

unfortunately its worth what someone will pay for it... but it should still be a good little bangernomics bus for someone. have a look at some ads for cheap ones, and expensive listings and gauge yours for where it falls between the quality / age / price brackets.

It's on its way Due delivery 8th August Vrs Estate 2.0 TSI DSG

Lovely old lady decided to T bone me today lol Doors- bent Sill - bent B pillar - bent Both quarters - bent Rear wheel - bent Rear suspension - bent Rear bumper - smashed Taillight - smashed

The Driver power survey of dealers has just been released, and Skoda were 16th of 16 (some brands were not included due to not enough responses) This year and its widely publicised shortages of new cars have brought frustration for many buyers, who have been kept waiting for deliveries, often with little effective communication from dealers. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/driver-power/92307/best-car-dealers-2022 Skoda : The results show it’s the new-car sales side that’s keeping the Czech brand’s scores down, with buyers ranking the firm’s retail operations next to bottom in the survey. Buyers don’t appear that impressed either by dealership facilities, staff performance or the deals they’re driving away with. That translates as parking provision scoring poorly, and low ratings for product knowledge and explanations during handovers, as well as low satisfaction with prices. Skoda’s aftersales scores are more middle of the range, with a 10th place for courtesy, and 11th for workmanship, but only 16th for dealer facilities.

Except it's more like 1976 but with terrible music...

Driving modes and button on the centre console are certainly standard on the petrol VRs models. Anyone know if it's the same for diesel? (Lets hope someone's not done a sneaky and stuck some VRs badges on a regular Octy!)

Stupid as it may sound it could also just simply be a case of something being detected as too close/blocking the sensor. I've had everything from snow and leaves triggering the error at times, to on one occasion where the reporting was more 'random', I eventually tracked the cause down to a fecking spider which had taken up residence in the front bumper and kept periodically trying to make a web right across the front of the sensor. You may want to check for something like this before going to the dealer for a costly bill.

@ColinD So you want one that can charge at 120kW

You decide.

Ha that's okay. I want to be interested so thought it would be good to ask some questions. Thanks for your help, there's a few round me so hopefully can get it looked into. I wonder if it's a wider problem as it's a few things that may be connected.

The usual suspect is the wiring in the door bellows, assuming you mean the front door speakers and not the tweeters in the upper fascia.

As usual I never notice post count, welcome new member 🤝 You may wish to look at this thread to see if you have someone nearby you can travel to, so that you can get your car scanned with a diagnostic tool. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/ some maps you can click on to find them, when you do, check out if they have logged in recently, as you may discover they haven't been online for a year or more.

I believe you will need a new gateway and steering wheel control module at the very least. These new steering wheels have a different button setup on them so I dont believe they are a direct fit.

Manuals can be found here: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Thanks, all good stuff every bit of extra information helps, I will replace the Exide EFB in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with an AGM battery with slightly higher capacity as that seems like being a smart move, but so far the factory fitted EFB has stayed alive longer than expected probably due to me making sure that it gets connected to a smart charger, CTEK when it was not used very much during the 2020 and 2021 lockdown periods, its capacity measures as being 500A CCA EN now, down from 640A CCA EN - well that was its rated value, and it measured slightly above that when newly delivered and in circuit in the car.

All back together, went back together easily. Bit of weirdness with the ball joints but got it sorted. They were as bad as the track rods. Drivers side ball joint was a nightmare to get out. Had a ball joint fork bought, and it needed to be forced in with a sledgehammer to separate the balljoint. Think I bent the brake shields, they're scraping a bit now. Not the end of the world. Looks a lot fresher than the old stuff. Drives a lot better, feels a lot tighter and took out a knock this car had in the steering. Even tracks fairly straight. Suspension stuffs sorted now atleast.

Be sure that it does actually show the DSG had oil changes at 40,000 & 80,000 miles.

I've always changed the oil and filter on any new motorcycle I have bought at 1000 miles. These days, machining tolerances are much better, but there used to be very good reasons for running an engine in—and you wouldn't want the slurry of metal particles and oil providing your lubrication for any longer than necessary… Mike 😎

These youngsters!!! 😉😉 I well remember having to change the oil every 5000 miles (Duckhams 20/50 please) and cleaning and gapping spark plugs. In fact when I was buying new Citroens in the 1980s, they needed an oil change after the first 500 miles! For one car this was interesting because just after buying it I was driving to the south of France, so I took it into a French dealership for its first service! Chris

You're going to have to find someone local who has either of these bits of software, connecting lead and/or laptop to plug it into your diagnostic port they can then scan your can and find the noise making device and electronically switch it off of reduce it to absolute minimum.

The noise maker is a VCDS or OBD11 thing, at least it was on my current car.

The roof is just black paint. It's having a full respray in audi speed blue (soon, hopefully). I'm not in a huge rush to reupholster. Got lots to do before then. So a long lead in wouldn't be the end of the world.

Welcome to the forum, I am preparing version 1433 and will PM you a link in few moment (packing file for you) Your 2nd question you may need to post in the main forum, I myself do not know the answer (never had a VRS)

This site might have got what you're after? 👍

When I did it I pressed them at exactly the same time and it worked fine.

Thanks both @EnterName (😆) and @threadbear. I agree with these in principle. Insurance is always a risk/reward gamble. We buy health and home insurance because the costs would not be bearable for most people. Car repairs - even fairly major (like an engine or a transmission) would be bearable for us .. but, still, if we have the feeling (and, especially, if statistics suggest to us) that we're likely to "win" that insurance "gamble", we also don't mind putting the (hopefully, in the end, net-less) money down up front. The problem, of course, is that it's quite hard to know the answer to "Will a 2020 car likely need a really major repair before 2029" until lots of 2020 cars start approaching 2029 🙂 @threadbear which year and model do you have (now at 6 years and 62000 miles)? thanks again

I never took out an extended warranty on my Octavia after 3 years either. Car is now nearly 6 years old and has had no issues except a fuel pressure sensor at 36000 miles. Car has now 62000 miles. I save money in a “car account” for any eventualities outside of my servicing plan, rather than paying for an extended warranty for something that might happen.

Cheers for the feedback, Nigel. The official advert will definitely not be like that. That's just for presenting honestly for valuation purposes etc. Likewise for the photos, new ones of the emptier car will be taken before sale ad goes up. I'm in no rush for it to go as the replacement won't be ready for a little while. I've got a lot of time to put things right too. I'll maybe provide a more detailed response in the morning to each individual point you've made here as it's rather late now.

Has had money spent on it - that's impressive and helps with a sale but might not add that much value to the more experienced buyer. Got a big fat ****ing booklet thing to confirm that. - that's always impressive especially if in strict order of some sort (reverse chronological perhaps) and the whole thing is presented well, better to have loose pages in clear plastic pockets/envelopes. Some with be very impressed if you colour code the booklet to the car and you have separate sections for MoTs and other history. "Angry" sounding three pot engine - not a description I used - would use - in any advert or description as it sounds like it might be knackered, unless it means something different to younger folk and you only want to sell it to them. Handles well. Rear beam clamps, soon to have front console bushes polybushed - careful with this as it might suggest you drive the car hard, and there are good bushes and ****-poor bushes available no one knows all the names so I'd leave it at rebushed if you want to include this and leave the potential buyer to ask for more detail if they want. Something is clunking (WIP) and (WIP) - both you really want sorted before any test drives Driver's seat padding is a bit poor - that's a shame, you've got the good impression of clean door shuts, driver's or front seats, steering wheel and gear knob make a good impression on a better presented car like yours. Service history... - you make up for with your extensive big fat booklet, make it a section in that, will look better as a part of something bigger than a slim volume of its own. You can tone down dents, scratches and key marks with paint and polishes and not presenting the car highly polished like a new car at a dealership, reasonably clean is fine with even a slight layer of dust as this is a used car despite many expecting it to be brand new others will be pleased to see it has all its doors and painted the same colour. Mild surface rust on rear sills - use something like Kurust to at least stop (slow down) the rust on show, you can then leave it as it is or touch-up paint over, both will show up so you're not hiding anything or pulling a fast one, leave with just Kurust (as with some of the others?). So if you're a vain and shallow buyer who obsesses over cosmetic ****e, then this is not for you - don't alienate or put off any potential buyers, let them decide the levels and standards they want, if they have objections you can work out then do so, any potential purchaser that is really willing to buy is worth thousands of those that haven't contacted you. Highlight what's important to the buyer not you, what's important to you may not be to them and the other way round, they may just tell you or you can ask questions or pick up on what they say. Personally I wouldn't have any personal stuff in the car for the sale photos, (again a clean engine bay and boot deck impresses many, shiny under the wheel arches might be a step too far though. Any car stuff in the photos a buyer may expects and sales can be lost over silly little things particular with something as personal to many/some as a car, if the car mats or anything isn't going with the car don't include them in the photos to avoid confusion. Plus it give you the opportunity if you want to throw such stuff in as a sweetener to swing the sale, silly little things can make as well as break a sale or make up for any other awkwardness. Also remember you are selling the car not buying the buyer, you don't have particularly like them, don't be false but do be courteous, there are two parties to the deal you can walk away from it but so can they. Oh, no, sorry I've no idea what's it's worth but if you want to sell it I'd suggest you don't hang about and get it advertised as soon and as widely as possible, don't forget locally too, but don't sell to anyone you know and never family as they always want something for nothing and blame you for all the mistreatment they give the car. Good luck.

Very hack project I've been working on As Ryan says trying to get a similar effect of a rarb without spending the money. I got the idea from this article. https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_113302/article Your man did this to a roomster no less. I think my approach is lacking in a few areas, namely the metal I use is really thin compared to what is shown in the article. I use a 10mm threaded bar and bend it to suit same as that article, using my old drum axle as a reference to get the right shape. Then used a strip of thin metal to go over the open V part. Currently a pair of these fitted to both my fabias. I'm still fairly worried that I'm just experiencing a placebo effect on both cars, but I think it has tightened both of them up a bit more. Mk2 has quite a lot of work done to it, including a rarb, mk1 less so but still has a little bit done to it. I hope Ryan can weigh in if he puts them on his car. If I'm proven right then it's great, if not well it just means I need to go back to the drawing board. I do like these little hack projects, and the Mk1 is a great excuse for me to try these things.

https://youtu.be/jbteh1MAgLI Here's video of fitting MK5 Golf seats - which should be similar to MK2 TT. They fit to mounts, but end up too high, which is why they had to mod the floor. MK1 TT had different mounting, with rails integrated in the floor. That's require somehow welding Felicia rails onto the TT seat.

Have you considered the old fashioned method of looking out of the windscreen?

I think another ABS sensor or reluctor ring could be the cause with stabilisation, ABS and tyre pressure lights.

If you could have kept going & actually done 102 miles and used just 4.546 litres of petrol that is good. If you have solar or wind to produce the electricity you charged the battery with then you will know it was emission free charging but if from the national grid you have no idea.

Likely Written Off by your Insurance as an Un-economic repair, but it will be bought and repaired and stay on the road by someone that can economically repair it.

One easy way to begin to check the cabling is, each of the sensors have 3 wires going to them, +12V power, a 0V earth return and an output, so you should find that there are 2 pins in each plug that go to the same 2 pins on the other plugs - but not to each other and only the output pins are completely separate from all the other pins. Edit:- but as has been said already, when you get a couple, three or all four sensors claiming to be faulty, then it is usually a wiring issue. The way that VW Group's supplier has made up these cable forms, there will be joins as the common +12V DC and 0V return lines are daisy chained along the bumper.

👏 that's exactly what I meant when I said "enjoying his car" I had to carefully search for it, so here it is (picture in the link):

Finally plumped for a new washer bottle so I could get the correct neck part to attach to the coolant tank as you can’t get it separate. Got rid of the cable tie holding the original 😂, also opened up the front lower grill with my dremmel finally

Insufficient evidence. You need to visually inspect, and feel with fingertips any areas that you can't get eyes on. This is an extreme example of what can happen:

Sorry I haven't been needing to at this time. Only 77000 km on the clock and 95% done on motorways and 80% done alone. Absorbers and springs are far from being worn out.

Can anyone that has parted with their Yeti recently maybe say where it is now for sale if it was a good one?

I was going to suggest you do this rather than just topping up but you will get a better drain and clean if you get the gear oil hot/warm, and leave to drain as long as reasonable, as it will remove more existing oil and containments and leave less residue of both in the box. This means the new fresh oil and its effects are less diluted by the residue of old oil and containments. Personally I pour some warmed new fresh oil into the box as the hot/warm drain gets to point of just drips for the warmed new fresh oil to act as a mini flush out. You can also check the old oil for any metal bits in it.

The spare wheel jack and foam kit (without spare wheel) is cheap at 1359CZK (about £46.70). The link is to "eshop skoda cz" but UK dealers should be able to order one if you give them the OEM part number 3V0093860B There's a different kit available if you have a 272HP/280HP 4x4 model, which has a slightly different OEM part number 3V0093860C . Superb MK3 jack and foam kit without spare wheel (not for 272HP/280HP 4x4 models) 3V0093860B https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola/p/3V0093860B Superb MK3 jack and foam kit spare wheel kit without spare wheel (only for 272HP/280HP 4x4 models) 3V0093860C https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola/p/3V0093860C

For anyone using the Eurolites deflectors on their mk4, it’s worth noting that the LEDs do not warm up the adhesive before removal. Mine were in situ for 25 days and on removing them found that most the adhesive remained on the headlight. Previous times I’ve used them with halogen lights it’s warmed enough to remove them cleanly. Used neat screenwash on a soft cloth to ge rid of the adhesive. Other than that, they were perfect.

Fully integrated asif factory fit 🤤

All well and good if you are actually undertaking some sort of manoeuvre. My first experience was on a long straight country lane just about two cars wide with ditches both sides but a very patchy surface. This was half an hour after I picked up the car. It frightened me stiff and has left a deep seated distrust that I will never get over.