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After 16 months it is finally here.

Finally, the day has come, and the car has arrived at the dealer. Delivery due within 4-5 days. I can't really express what I feel now. The order was placed on 21st April 2021, so nearly 23 months ago. I've never waited such a long time for anything before. According to the documentation, the car was built on 24th October, and since it waited for semi-conductors. The missing parts added on 14th February (3,5 months later). Here are some fresh photos – taken minutes after the arrival (the mirror shows the smile on my face 😆)

It's often asserted on this and other forums that the letter(s) at the end of a (9 character) part number is 'just a revision level'. People claim and assume that an alphabetically later letter or pair of letters is the same part but new and improved, or from a different manufacturer, or whatever. They assume it'll fit and work But it simply isn't true, not all the time by any means. Example, brake discs with core part number 6R0 615 301 Without any letter at the end, that's a 256mm disc fitted to various Skoda models, as well as other VW-group cars. It's obsolete now, dropped on Feb 1st 2017, replaced by the part number 6R0 615 301C Not 6R0 615 301A which is a 288mm disc, nor 6R0 615 301B which is a 310mm disc. Neither of these is likely to fit or work... Another common error is to mistake the third character in a part number as a letter O when it is really a numeral zero. Hampers search engine research when this is mis-entered.

yes. that's why I mentioned that the immobiliser was not accepting them. the adaptation was not sticking. however I have now found this was to do with too high a latency on my serial lines and rewritten some open source code to force the adaptation. this worked and the chips are now programmed.

Lovely (nearly full) Moon this evening, although partially obscured by cloud . The trees clearly think Spring has arrived!

sure Keith to get an eeprom dump I used vag k+can 1.4. it refused to work reliably for a long time, giving only snippets of the rom. but just once it connected, maintained the connection and was able to get a full enough dump to decode the SKC. the issue i think is that the ftdi cable running through a usb c converter into a mac running parallels added too much software latency and the app was disconnecting. i suspect that if you were using an older windows PC there would not be the same issues. i then recompiled kw1281test with long timeouts of 10 seconds and issued this command with a key in the lock and the ignition on. dotnet run com4 10400 17 adaptationsave 21 3 01777 this tells the application to open com4 at a baud rate of 10.4k and talk to module 17 to adapt channel 21 to a new value of 3 (3 keys), logging in with the code 01777. this was the output Version 0.80-beta (https://github.com/gmenounos/kw1281test/releases) Args: com4 10400 17 adaptationsave 21 3 01777 OSVersion: Microsoft Windows NT 10.0.22621.0 .NET Version: 7.0.3 Culture: en-US Opening serial port com4 Sending wakeup message Wakeup duration: 2 seconds Reading sync byte Keyword Lsb $01 Keyword Msb $8A Protocol is KW 1281 (8N1) ECU: 6Y0920981M KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V02 Software Coding 00401, Workshop Code: 13765 Sending Login block Sending AdaptationRead block Received "Adaptation Response" block: 15 00 02 E7 25 00 6C 25 00 6D 1C 00 02 25 00 6B Adaptation value: 2 Sending AdaptationTest block Received "Adaptation Response" block: 15 00 03 E7 25 00 6E 25 00 6D 1C 00 03 25 00 6B Adaptation value: 3 Sending AdaptationSave block Received "Adaptation Response" block: 15 00 03 Adaptation value: 3 Sending EndCommunication block which shows that the code read channel21, tested writing 3 to it successfully and then committed that write permanently. changing channel21 allows 60 seconds for new transponder IDs to be mated to the immobiliser. put each key in to the ignition in sequence and turn ignition (not engine) on. wait a couple of seconds until the immo light stops flashing. the remote open for each fob was done in the normal way (window down, ignition on, put new key in to drivers door, lock the door, remove key, press lock once, press and hold unlock for a couple of seconds. turn ignition off. the keyblades I got from keys in the post. the blank fobs I got off amazon. I used a hammer and panel nail to drive out the cotter(ish) pin, hammer to bash the new key blade in and to drive the pin back into the blade. oddly this took a long time (I didn't have my magnifying glass and my eyes don't work that well any more). hope that helps.

I washed my Estate Mk3 on last Sunday (coming back from holidays with very salty roads). While using the pressure washer at the car wash, another car parks on the place next to mine. I don't really pay attention to it, since the washing slots are separated by smoked windows. I keep on washing my car and when I was finally rinsing my car, I had a quick look to my car reflecting on these smoked windows. And... instead of seeing my Mk3, it had changed into beautiful black Porsche Taycan !!! 😍🤩😃 Unfortunately, this lasted only 1 sec, before I realized it was not my car, but a real Porsche Taycan on the other side of the smoked window... 😐 I wished my "pumpkin had turned into a carriage until midnight like Cinderella", but this lasted only one second!... 😂 I think my vacation was not relaxing enough... I need more vacation... 😂

Are you sure it’s not the garage fuel dispenser and the arrow showing what side the fuel filler is on icon.

I am a well known exponent of the Art of Fine Bodgery. If it works, I won't turn my back on it. What I did was take the snapped off contact - a bit of soft brass (which I would have expected to be stiff and springy ???) - and rearranged its shape to jamb between the remaining bit of contact and the side of the bulb holder, protruding into the bulb socket to make contact with the side of the bulb. It's worked OK but I will try and source a suitable holder if I can and solder/splice it in to the harness. I baulk at paying £50 for a few bits of wire in order to replace a 50p bulb holder.

Had a little accident month ago, woman was backing into parking spot and went full pedal to the metal into me, ruined my front end, car was fixed but I ended up swapping grill and added front splitter, few more bita coming in following weeks.

Today I got info that my Octavia Estate (2.0 TDI ambition) was finished, next week should be at dealers shop. Orderd 15/4/2022 -> 11 months of waiting

So yes, what @Breezy_Pete has said about O (as in Oscar) and 0 (as in the number zero), there are no parts I have ever seen that use the letter O. AFAIK there is also no part that has I (for India) and there is only 1 (as in the number one) used in the parts catalog. Regards to the question about colour codes, here you can see a basic idea of the choices Here are some parts snippets, and you can buy some things without any colour preparation 1. 5Q0 919 275 B So this is the sensor as it comes from the factory 2. 5Q0 919 275 B GRU This is the sensor with primer only ready to paint 3. 5Q0 919 133 A seal ring without any specified colour (no longer available) 4. 5Q0 919 133 9B9 A seal ring in Satin Black 5. 5Q0 919 133 704 A seal ring in Grey colour

Ah but how many DSG gearboxes have you exploded? 😆 Don't respond, the answer will of course be none.

You need to use the "wheel" on the right side of the steering-wheel. One click on that wheel will open the "menu" of the right side (where we now have the audio source). You'll notice two green arrows above and below inside the speedometer circle - if you scroll using the same wheel, you can change the content of the speedo-circle. One more click on the same right-wheel on the steering-wheel, will open the "menu" on the revs-circle. You'll notice two similar green arrows up and down. It means you can now scroll (using the same wheel) through the items to be displayed in the rev-circle. Have fun with the menu! BTW - each side (left and right) has a "Settings" section when you scroll through the right or the left menu. If you click "Settings", that will allow you to activate or deactivate stuff to potentially display on each side of the dashboard. Long-story-short, the video below is better than a thousand words... (L.E. Really sorry for the off-topic, but since it's a learning topic I thought the initiator of this topic might also benefit from it...)

It would be good/informative to know how you finally managed to resolve this issue, including the hardware used as keys can be bought - cut to a photo - which I had done to allow access should the keys either get locked in the car but to take them from basically a dumb key to fully functioning would be great.

I have to say it looks darn good with dsg, the interior is so clean 😍 For me it was love at first sight ☺️

Ok, thanks for all the help. I’ll look at the pm. Cheers

Just thought I'd give a shout out to Marshall's Skoda Harlow since no one else has. I've had my Octavia for 2 1/2 years now. It's been for a couple of services and most recently an MOT (I have an extended warranty / service plan which includes 2x MOTs) at Marshall's (even though they have to take it elsewhere for the MOT). It came back from the MOT today with a minor advisory for front pads "Offside Front inner pad wear wire looks almost on disc". At no point did they try to sell me new pads, let alone new disks which is often a complaint you hear about main dealers. I had to ask for a price (which I won't be taking them up on). Even when the service agent checked the disks they said I'd probably get another set of pads out of them. In fact, they've never tried to sell me anything and were 100% helpful when the rear wiper motor started failing, getting it replaced under the - then pretty new - extended warranty. Would 100% recommend.

I know. Thanks. I check Motability price list every quarter and my mate is a Motability Specialist salesperson with Skoda / Seat. I used to be an installer of adaptions, hand controls and pedals pre electronic adaptions. Edit. It would not be a black one as i void never again..

What I put as mobility offers are.manual

Well my Superb is still on its 2nd set of pads from new, has almost 79000 miles on the clock and nearly 10 years old so if don't drive a boy racer with the pedal to the metal until the last minute, the cars natural compression braking works just fine with the DSG automatically down changing to assist the braking effort. You will also benefit from increased MPG figures and that in todays climate is a positive and also helps to lower emissions.

There are 4 plugs, only difference is one has the pressure sensor. Yes DPF regens do use glow plugs to help increase post combustion/exhaust gas temperatures to aid with DPF regens.

Remove the door card, remove the sealing panel behind it. Then reach your hand in and pop the panel out from the inside. No other way to do it without damaging stuff

They will probably say your warranty is voided, but these have recovery methods built into the firmware, so even if things went wrong (very unlikely) you can recover the situation. They could be aware you have updated the system if they plug in, but they cannot say "since you updated the firmware, your engine fault was caused by this" It might erase settings in the radio, resetting things to defaults, for some it just updates and like a mobile phone as you say. If you are in doubts, then leave it alone... maybe try with dealer to push for update (though they sound clueless)

I can verify that 1440 is the latest version for that Software Train. Hopefully someone can answer if you can do wireless AA.

Yes, so far so good, so much more roomier than our previous car, the Ford Kuga!

Thank you. Indeed it was a nice bargain cause its price was estimated 21000€ and we only paid 14000. Its previous owners were painstaking with it and the car looks like a new one. Our kids are 4 and 1 and we experienced holidays last summer with our Kia Rio. So now, everything will be easier

Interesting test methodology. Not how most EV owners with home charging drive their cars. They charged up to 100%, left the car for 14 hours and come back next day to charge again to 100% and do the test. Most EV manual will say don't do small top ups to 100%, it degrades the battery in the long term. They did not publish what sort of temperature battery is at. I would (with limited 4 hours cheap period, it recharges 35% on my car) charge to whatever so that end with ~70% the previous day, charge to 100% AND turn on pre-condition with minimum cabin temperature during cheap period to pre-condition the battery. Then a few hours later drive the car with a warmer battery. I've bought "s3xy buttons" and been monitoring how the car behaves . Without overnight pre-conditioning while plugged in, after overnight charging, car battery is at a few degrees above ambient in the morning. With overnight pre-conditioning, car battery is around 12c when I come to drive it in the morning. Battery temperature does play a noticeable part in vehicle overall efficiency.

@J.R. from the first page. Crunch certainly sounds like something broken to me. Whether from this gear change or not it cant be helping the situation.

Yeah, I appreciate it. Thanks mate.

Thanks for your help! I'll have a check tonight. Had to change my tail lights recently, so I know they are W5W. Thanks, really appreciate your help mate. I'll crack the lights open later and compare.

These might just be the typical bulbs fitted, but need to check with own eyes I'm afraid to see. If you have a single bulb for high beam and dipped = H4 (with 3x "prongs" on the back) If you have two bulbs seen for dipped and highbeam, then you will most likely have 2x H7 (one for dipped beam, one for your highbeam) this has only two "prongs" on the back Next you have the amber indicator bulb, PY21 - Note that the pins are "offset" meaning they are not opposite each other. Finally this should be your sidelight, a W5W small bulb that I refer to often as a "peanut" bulb.

Hard to answer accurately as there are several headlight choices (4) A picture of your headlight, or better still the part number of the headlight if it's still on the top will find out what is what. The alternative is you need to remove each bulb that is broken to find out.

The dsg will not downshift in manual mode if the increase in engine revs required would exceed set limits

I believe u need to remove the door card and unclip it from the inside.

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2023/03/06/elon-musk-cuts-thousands-tesla-prices-second-time-year/ Back to 2021 prices for Model 3. I was tempted with a Model 3 base level but decided to keep my Octavia due to no road trips planned and occasional commuting need that can be taken up by Leaf because kid hasn't started fulltime school yet. £44,320 for Model Y base spec is very good. They may be able to achieve sub £40k for Model Y when 2025 rolls around and EV's get the same lux-car tax. Model 3 will definitely get below that by then. Prices on their website hasn't changed. That's strange. Edit: Ah okay, it's on the inventory cars, not "list price". I bet you will get matched to an inventory car after placing a new order. £53k for a blue MYLR (otherwise standard) like my one. I paid £56k. Very small price drop, just £1k drop from list price. But if buying now, I'd wait a few more months to be sure to get suspension upgrade. It is said "comfort" suspension are being installed to cars from China starting Feb.

fyi Lee @TMB this is how they sell on ebay ... trade secret even my know mechanic was asking me how did i mange to refit again the new actuator he did not share me secret , when I tried to pull the cable it was not reaching so I did research and found that 2-3 mm is short which self cut rubber seal had filled the gap and all worked fine, even I was also about to break the clip by forcibly trying to fit it. cheers

Thanks for this very extensive summary. I've just got back from Australia and don't really think you seemed to get many diesel's, or not that I saw, anyway. I did see a few Octavia's, but pretty sure no MK4! I have seen a few 1.9 dsg, but not enough to have a comfortable frontrunner. Then they're pretty expensive for what they are, evidenced by how many don't sell on eBay. MK2 tdi 2.0pd I'd just avoid, I've never heard a good thing about them. 1.6 cr would be most likely or 1.9, same power but newer engine and obviously related to the cr engine in MK3 and the 2.0cr. Early 1.6 I've heard had problems so possibly only option is 1.9 in the MK2! I'll keep your comments in mind and keep looking, although it's possibly a Volvo might take the spot.

I believe I found the part and it’s called Tunnel Brace according to elsawin, but it looks like to take it off you need to move loads of plastic parts which I can’t be bothered to do. What I’ll do is rust convert and rust oleum combi colour it. I’ll do this as I’ve just done the same on my wife’s Fiat 500’s rear axle so already have the parts.

They do not 'break', what happens very often with DQ200's is that they require Clutch Packs, or selectors or MCU's or actually new boxes but that is just the weaknesses. Going down to 1st manually is not the issue there. If you do it a few times and the noise or behaviour isas it can be you tend not to do it again. Thew DQ250's have been quite robust, and the DQ381,s are looking like maybe not being so and damn expensive to service and more so to repair. The thing is that you can drive them as you want and maybe those that own them might be more careful with them than those that lease cars and return them after a year or 3. That is then the next owners that might have no expenses or lots to spend out in the future with them. It is only 2 pedal car driving, it is as easy as driving a dodgem...

Someone must not be resetting the Oil Service indicator. So it is for you to know or find out, and tell them what you want the Services set at, Fixed or Variable. 372 days / 9,400 miles or Variable 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles. The correct or recommended oil is VW508 00 / 509 00 so 0w 20 FS IV which is long life oil. Or VW504 00 / 507 00 whish is 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III Oil. These are for fixed or variable servicing of TSI's. VW502 00 so 5w 40 FS is for Fixed services if you want.

Out of interest, the chances of a completely destroyed engine are pretty low. you may have some bent valves and damaged piston heads, you hopefully got away without scoring the sidewalls. to me that sounds like a perfect time for a bigger turbo, ported head and larger valves and cylinder bored slightly for larger pistons for a bit more of a kick 😛

Either way, personal protective equipment.

In the old days it was condom's in there 🥰

Sorry, I never updated this. The dealer replaced the cluster (to my pleasant surprise). But it was under warranty.

@drew_smith Four years on and I have the exact same problem with my door handle. It is not sitting flush either. It is driving me bad because I have tried all the above what ye have suggested also. Did you have any luck in solving it from what you can remember!?

There is no official kit from Skoda to add it so there is no part number. I'm not sure if you want AA or CarPlay support but a few random examples include: - https://www.aawireless.io/ - https://carsifi.com/ - https://cplay2air.com/ - https://www.carlinkit.com/ I'd suggest checking some of the many review/comparison sites to see which fits your needs For example: https://uk.pcmag.com/mobile-phone-accessories/141911/the-best-wireless-adapters-for-carplay-and-android-auto-in-2022

I changed from the MIB1 to the MIB2, bought mine from Pub567, and If anybody looking to update, I´m sure they others highly skilled, but I have to say, Pub its a great guy, the price was same as ebay, but the item was in mint condition, great communication, and he programmed the unit jus as I asked him with all the protection removed., And with all function activated. So if you look to update, Pub is your guy. Thanks again Pub. p.s. the screen protector, you can get it from Amazon, I bought mine from aliexpress

@nori you have Amundsen MIB2 MY16, non-DAB. You can use any of screens you mentioned (3V0919606, 3V0919605D), they are P&P, just note in case of 3V0919605D you will get a little space between the display and the trims. @SimmoWhale you can you 5E0919606, 5E0919605M (with NAV button), 5E0919605N (without NAV button). Apple CarPlay is NOT screen-dependent, it depends on the glove box unit - yours supports it as long as SmartLink is activated.