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I am a little concerned as well for you are other road users so if you can not inspect your brakes have someone that can do it and sooner than later. Looking at the pads, but the rear of the discs as well as what can be seen from through the wheels.

They would have likely dropped the front wishbones to replace the shocks. As you can see above, the level sender is attached to the wishbone so it may have been disconnected (mechanically, not electrically) or damaged during the shock replacement.

Evening all, just purchased my new Fabia monte carlo. Should be taking delivery of it in the next couple of weeks! It will be my second after 5 years of owning a 2014 model. Will post a pic of my old one/ new one!! Cheers!!

I imagine Mr@toot might comment on this but I'm pretty sure this is not a requirement.

Hiya just a quick update the mirrors came all fitted and work perfectly.

Update from.Autocar https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-volkswagen-id-2-ev-tipped-15-march-reveal

you still have the Consumer Rights Act 2015. It is not limited by warranty and you have up to 6 years to act. https://www.themotorombudsman.org/knowledge-base/what-is-the-consumer-rights-act

Aha, I think that probably is the cause of the noise That would make perfect sense, with the sound pitch changing with varying speed, but not with varying brake pressure applied. Thank you all. I will follow up after the service !

Sure is: Gaz

If they were loose (and could potentially fall off) or contacting the disk I wouldn't be surprised to get at least an advisory for it. OP: did the noise just suddenly start or was anything done to the car just before it started? The discs/pads look OK from the photos, but as Ken said we can't make judgement on the inner pads. All being well they should wear at a similar rate but if the sliders seize up then the inner would wear more. You could try to feel the other side of the discs with your finger (once cold!) to see if there are any obvious ridges. If it's going in for a service tomorrow then worth asking them to do a quick check. With the car in the air it should be a piece of cake to work out which wheel(s) the noise is coming from and whether it's due to the dust shield or pads.

Odd if potentially low brake pads didn't get a mention at the MOT. My local MOT station is quite hot on it, and the main dealers are shameless in upselling new pads/discs at every opportunity. Could you have something trapped (a small stone?) that's causing the squeal? Or is it possibly a low pad wear squeal spring doing its job? An inspection and photos would be an interesting addition to this thread. As others have suggested, I'd be looking at the inboard side closely, once you've got the wheels off. Gaz

I have just sorted my boot rattle, it was the trim under the rear windscreen. I guess over time the clips holding the trim have become loose and it just sort of flapped about when going over bumps. Interestingly enough, the edge of the window on each side had the worst rattle. I found some foam and pushed that into the corners, between the glass and the trim. I then followed the trim and created a foam layer between the trim and the window. It has completely sorted the annoying rattle, coudn't believe it!

This is yet another example of the difference from the Factory maintenance schedule and then an importer seems to decide that it doesn't matter/apply. So Factory says it's every 2 years. Skoda UK say 3 years, then every 2 years after. The same thing occurs with 1.5tsi act engine timing belts, Factory says lifetime, Skoda UK recommends every 5 years. Factory and importers should be singing off the same page, to stop all the confusion.

I just had my 3rd service at 45 000 km (car being at this time 2y and 2m old) on my RS TSI and the garage has changed the oil in my VAQ diff, but they didn't change the brake fluid (although they said they will at first, when I dropped off the car). Forgot to ask why have they changed their mind.

Have a look at this brochure, has all the wheels with their ET (offsets) and the required tyre size, along with photos https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b The wheel rims are 16, 17, 18 inch. The smaller sizes will be more comfortable and tyres will be cheaper, the big size will be more harsh on poor roads The ET is 38-40, the numbers are millimetres, but not a problem if couple of millimetres different when buying aftermarket rims (it is how far out the wheels are from hubs)

Another of those idiotic ones, why does the brake fluid the factory put in last 3 years, but the (identical) brake fluid used by dealers only last 2 years Skoda seem to know, but I can't figure it out

@J.R. without cruise control warning system 😉

That is very severe for under a year old, even Lancia with their worst example would have struggled to beat that. Mind you by the first MOT the whole front bulkhead and subframe support structure looked like that all over!

This question has been on the MK1 TT Forum several times. The answer is always, you get what you pay for. If you just want the car lowered and nothing else then they are fine. But if you want it to handle properly then spend a lot more and go for a brand like Bilstein

No, we didn’t escalate this to any senior executive team as we didn’t know that was an option? Time is against us unfortunately as Dad only has a few months left and we needed a solution asap, hence we went to the local garage.

Thanks mate I’ll try I different body shop

I've ordered few days ago, (MIB1 Amundsen user here..) and when arrive, after installation, i'll keep the thread notified

I thnk it's just poor lighting. Yes the brake fluid has been changed at the indicated service intervals. I suddenly noticed the noice while driving, nothing was done to the car prior. The noise is barely noticable with windows closed, but very obvious with open windows. I was already planning to change all pads at tomorros service, hopefully that will take care of the noise and maybe give an indication of what it was.

Logical yes, but if the calliper is not moving freely on the carrier pins, then the piston in the calliper can produce more force (and therefore wear) on the inboard pads. Not always the case. or even common, but needs a visual check to confirm. Gaz

Obviously the dealership asked if they should change the pads at the last service but admittet that with my driving history they would be fine until next service. My own thought was either, like you suggest, a small stone or something trapped, or, and that was my real concern, failing wheel bearings. Would that not produce such a noise? The car has done just over 210K km. Here are pictures from the front, through the spokes - taken after the car was parked overnight, hence the rust marks. The first two are the front, the last two the rear. Notice the fresh groove near the center....

@rcd I think whilst you never take any risks with brakes - brakes are the number one priority (brakes includes tyres) - the situation might not be as bad as some think - but then again it might be, very difficult to tell from a brief text description. Lots of detailed, well taken high definition photos and a video with audio for the noise might tell more, or might not. My wife's 2015 Fabia has a slight scraping of pads on discs that I sometimes hear when I'm not being annoyed by all the other strange noises from the engine bay as the computers seem to be doing as they please. When I changed the front pads and discs I hoped that'd be the end of it but no it returned. Perhaps it's the slide pins I didn't replace or something else (not backplates). Another thought is perhaps there's some sand/stone type grit caught somewhere and perhaps a sensible high pressure rinse might flush it out, care with the use of wet brakes of course. (ETA: Gaz beat me to it) Wheel bearings are usually more a constant rumble, hoarsey-roar type sound, sad to think an eight year old car would need them replacing but apparently they can do, like the dampers, springs, engine bits and brakes, so much for 'German engineering'. It may be that you'd want to change the discs as well as the pads, depends on their condition of course. (ETA: as you've noticed) Never put too much faith in an MoT pass (nice though they are to have) do bear in mind an MoT is just a statutory test for the car to meet a minimum standard, taken at one point in time to one trained person's point of view, it doesn't mean the car is as good as it could or should be and the car could potentially fail the same test the next day or even from driving away. I'm sure tomorrow's service with highlight any seen issues. 😄 Good luck.

See, that was a good and useful reply. Thank you. Incidentally the car passed MOT two weeks ago, and I am going for service tomorrow, but that's really beside the point. I was asking a serious and polite question and didn't need a rude, condecending reply.

The fact that one has now gone metal to metal and will be destroying the disc, probably the inner pad. Toot has given good advice, you should heed it and not become adversary. The noise could equally be the tin foil backplate having rusted and fractured at the mounting points, that corresponds more with your description, again it needs inspecting with the wheel removed not visually through the wheel.

@Gaz my total recall is about complete til 2021 except some amazing nights out or my Newcastle Brown era, and maybe around the time of the Black Pudding Incident. Best forgotten.

@Breezy_Pete Bought a full car spec list, I have 8T2 - electronic cruise control system (CCS).

So some of these service recommendations, guidelines or schedules for service items have changed from Skoda with new models. Back to brake fluid first at 2 years for a change. Also from VAQ diffs and owners not being told a service is due at 3 years / 30,000 miles it then starts that some are contacted and told it is at 2 years. @SurreyJohn I bumped the thread in the MK3 Fabia section.

Hello! Yesterday I had the same error and I couldn't start the car. I called my husband and we both googled and watched Youtube to understand what we can do and if it was possible to delete error notification for me to get home. We couldn't fix it and I took a bus to get home. I gave keys to my husband and he was ready to drive to my Skoda with his friend and pull the car back with a rope. Then he looked at the immobilizer and said that there needs to be red light. He opened it and there were broken some little part and he changed immobilizer. Of course we thought that it would be strange if everything would work because there is no point to show brake and ABS error if the real problem would be immovilizer. But actually it really was, which solved the problem and it let to start the car, he drove 60km home and everything was fine. As I couldn't find helpful information around google, and this was newest topic/discussion of this problem, I just wanted to let this info there what helped me to solve brake workshop error on Skoda Octavia, if this can help someone else, I would be happy! 👌🏻🚗 P.S. Sorry for my english, this is not my native language! 🙏🏻

It certainly will and still some will make a fortune out of others making huge losses in the business of finance, trading, speculation and money lending. That is how it goes with commerce. If all you want is to buy a car or lease one for transport then you just do the deal that suits you.

Does anybody know how to reattach the metal bar to each of the vent arms. My children managed to kick the vent and it fell apart. I've tried a million times and it is the most frustrating part in the history of parts. Im generally patient but this thing has me beat

Ahh welcome to the vag group poor quality door lock owners club! I’ve had the exact same issue with my front passenger door lock a few weeks ago and previously the rear drivers side one. both have been replaced under warranty (extended two years running from the standard one year it came with) I guess the other two will also fail eventually, hopefully before September when the current warranty expires as I’m not sure I’ll renew it again…. This is a great car but so far I’ve had more than my fair share of electrical gremlins replaced under warranty! (2 x door locks, drivers window switches, fuel flap solenoid and alternator - all on a 2018 car!)

Clicks and hums can be many things after shutdown including throttle valves, solenoids, relays and if you’re getting a hum it could be the electronic water pumps carrying on their cycle for a bit to help cool the engine down.

Thanks it was 24mm. Really easy job all told 👌

That is the first actuator from the left side. First one is A, second one is B. But they are the same. It could be loose connection too. I had error once for Cyl2 B and never after this. But I still removed 5 or 6 of them that are easier to remove and cleaned them.

Could be the switch. I had a similar problem last year when the (dipped) headlights didn't work, but all other lights were OK. The fix was to replace the light switch.

Thx man. It's been a long time coming... It's not a Sportline. It's a mild hybrid (aka. e-TEC) Style model with DSG and dynamic sport pack (which includes the black grill, side mirrors, sport steering wheel, sport seats and lowered suspension). The dealer said that this car is the first they delivered this year with mild hybrid system, and the battery pack was among the missing parts. As far as I know the dynamic sport pack as an independent option was withdrawn from the market at the end of 2021 due to shortages. Probably Skoda kept these components for the vRS models.

You and me both 😳 Things were made worse when it said Insert into post 🤣

Hi @seamaster, lovely looking car. Just want to check on behalf of a friend - is that a typo on the mileage? I think it should be 65,100 maybe rather than 16,500? Just checking the MOT history and you were 64,800 in Oct 22. Worth clarifying as my friend is looking for <30k miles. Thanks Z

The build codes aren't in the car. They are on the VW database. Every car that leaves the factory will have all of their build codes on the VW database. There are at least two ways to get hold of the build codes. For about 3 Euros, there's an ebay seller that can supply your build codes. Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find the listing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 For about 7 Euros, you can obtain your build codes from "skoda erwin". This gives you 1 hour's access, which should be enough time to download the build codes, and you can also download manuals as well. Once you have your build codes (there might be around 180 build codes) you can decode them on "vw codes decoder". You can also use an official Skoda parts catalogue to find parts by reference to the build codes. VW codes decoder http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx Skoda parts catalogue (this is not a recommendation for lllparts, it's just to find OEM part numbers) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda

Update. 6 valves touched pistons, no visible bend in valves (chunkie buggers) better test next weekend. crank needs grind (spun bearing) so will send off this week. so in all I will, grind crank ( new bearings) piston rings timing chain kit potential oil pump replace anything else I find also

There’s a reason for this the manual was written by a Czeck with a limited understanding of English. I had my Superb for 5 years and still didn’t understand the manual when I traded it in. Now that it’s gone ‘on screen’ I don’t think that I have a hope.

That would be hilarious fun!

^^^ Exactly. Big differences in towns / city limits and out on open roads. Porsche Taycan as a city car not that environmentally friendly anyway. Heavy taking up road space and often occupied by just a driver. Maybe they should do a Sporty Small car or just a Porsche version of an Up!MiiCitigo like Aston Martin did with a Cygnet (Toyota iQ)

I just changed the battery in my key and noticed in the manual a step to reset the key. After removing the old battery, press a key button, then insert the new one. I assume this resets the alarm/alert.

If you press the set button it's in there I think. I was looking the other day