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If you have a 1.6l BTS engine code, then it's a chain Part 4 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RO/481/1/109/109060

I see both sides of the argument, here. What I would highlight is what @Schtumpointed out, that things have progressed considerably in automotive technology in the last 50 years, and the car does an awful lot of clever things that drivers don't tend to notice are happening. However to do those things, the system has to know what it's dealing with. If you change the car without telling the XDS/haldex (and whatever other clever stuff is in the car's system to keep the driver pointing in the right direction) that they are no longer dealing with a vanilla Yeti, and now have a big lump of weight hanging off the back of the car, there are doubtless circumstances when the XDS/haldex may be inclined to do the "wrong" thing, because it doesn't know the car has half a ton (or more) of unexpected weight hanging off the back of it.

However, in those 50 years, things have evolved somewhat. When my wife bought her first 4Motion Tiguan in 2011, I decided that we needed a tow bar on it and I'd be a cheapskate and not fit coded electrics. The result of that was that I managed to wear out the rear discs and pads in c. 20k miles. Since the car didn't know that I had a trailer attached, it was obviously attempting to correct the forces at the rear by modulating the rear brakes much of the time that I was driving across local hill road in my usual enthusiastic fashion. I've been driving and towing for 50 years and I'm an old hooligan and still drive like one. Cue the next two Tiguans, her current Karoq and my Yeti being fitted with dedicated and coded electrics. The rate of attrition to the rear brakes is greatly diminished even if I did manage to cook the front discs and pads on the Karoq at 18k miles and the Yeti at c. 12k. I'm sure much of that is to the actions of XDS....😁

Hi All, Minor update. Skoda customer services have arranged with dealer to flash my DSG back to pre-update software next week. I shall report back. On one hand, positive news, on the other, it's taken a lot of time, stress, and sadness to get to here and I don't want to count my chickens yet.

You have an 09G 6-speed automatic box All I could see in maintenance is to check the levels of ATF fluid every 60,000km (40,000 miles roughly speaking) No mention of a change in fluid being needed. @toot Has all the charts for such changes, and will hopefully see the post now and let us know if there is a fluid change schedule I missed.

Until new type approved cars from 2014 on there were many that included ones used for towing that did not have ESP as standard. (Not including the Yeti in this) There were cars without ABS back in the day. Even cars without power steering. Times move on. If the car has been engineered to assist in towing being safer then there are reasons behind that. Not everyone is a driving god. Plenty still tow without Power steering, ABS or ESP and maybe with tyres more suited to offroad than on.

I’ve had CrossClimates on for about 5 months now. So far so good, a bit noisier on some road surfaces. Can’t say I’ve noticed any worse grip on dry roads, but in the snow there is a massive difference. I do live in Aberdeen and drive over the hills a fair bit, so maybe more than average encounters with snow. Can’t really say anything about wear rate yet.

Yes. It will only let you change the colour of one profile. The stock behaviour is to change the individual profile colour which is why Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual is set to 7. I've added extracts from both a Russian and English MY19 Octavia manual:

Ordered 2021 sep 15 and delivered 2023 mar 22. All time i wasn't get any biuld date hothing just two weks before delivery they informed me it's already bound and coming to lithuania

Most people don't know their engine code. That usually doesn't affect their lives too much, but when asking questions of a technical nature on a car forum it can be very a useful thing to be able to mention. Why? It gives a more specific, precise definition of the engine in question than any other description you might otherwise use. Why is that important? 1. Information in parts catalogues, particularly for anything even slightly engine related, is often different depending on which engine code is being looked for. 2. Information (relating to the engine at least) in factory wiring diagrams is split up into sections by engine code. If you don't know the engine code, there might be a number of different diagrams with significant differences which could lead you astray if you pick the wrong one. 3. Questions concerning diagnosis of a fault should often vary depending on the engine code. If you have a 1.2 litre 3-cylinder petrol engine for example, it might have an EGR valve if it has certain engine codes, and not if it has others. It is very likely to even have a different number of camshafts and valves depending on which code. EGR faults are very rare on cars that don't have one! 4. If you know your engine code, you can put it into ebay as a search term (e.g. "AZQ engine") and you will see listings of ones for sale. These can be very useful for finding things on the engine or working out how to get to them, as they often include good photos from several angles of engines on pallets, with varying numbers of ancillary items fitted. Much easier to see what's what than from more or less any angle while the engine is in the engine bay. How and where can I find this code? On cars up until about 2018, there tended to be a paper sticker on the boot floor, often near the spare wheel well. Duplicate could often found at the front of the service book. That includes a certain amount of info about the vehicle, including engine (and gearbox) codes, paint code, all sorts. Example (engine code in red square, gearbox code in blue): Many cars also have a barcode sticker on the upper cambelt cover, like this one: The engine code is the letters (in yellow box) just ahead of the engine number: See also Nige's reply below about finding the engine code on your V5c. Letters ahead of the engine number. Consider adding this engine code to any info you may have already put in your profile and or signature, and keep it updated if you change cars.

Hi guys, Didnt think I would become so addicted modifying my RS 2.0tsi so much lol. Now remapped to 320HP and 450nm torque with Eventuri air intake and after opf straight pipe exhausts only with a anti drone resonator. See pic. Now looking into downpipe replacement with sport cat and 2 mufflers with valves custom made and custom remap. Still surprised about the racing line figures actually. 510nm.. Anyone already going more than 350hp so far? For me it would be a stage 2 remap. Direct fit upgrade turbo seems not to be available yet. All your feedback is welcome!

I have a 2011 Octavia Estate and the speed (bottom right of MFD) also shows km/hr. The owner's manual says it can be changed, along with other things, with the knob 5 on the image of the instrument cluster. That knob does so many things that I am worried about changing something else. What exactly do you have to do?

I will check the various comments on my Karoq tyres tomorrow. Very helpful. I will also check the printed spec for the suggested tyres. Have now spoken to a Skoda engineer and our local tyre garage. They are quoting about £1600 for a new set of wheels and tyres. Start getting expensive just to change for my comfort and I suppose I also need then to change the get home spare wheel. My car has completed 37k miles and they are the original Pirelli tyres, front getting down to 2.5mm so time to change , back 4.5mm. Thanks guys.

1 and 3 are on the current approved list, 2 isn't.

Apologies, I thought you were referring to the PDF attachment earlier in the thread.

Nope, look at the list, loads of 0W30s on it. 🙂

I hope this will help. I presume that the problem is on the right side. It looks like a brake light in on with parking/position lights ? If so you need to go to 09 contral electric / adaptation / Leuchte21BR (left brake light) and compare chanales (light functions) with Leuchte20 ( right brake light) . probably somewhere is activated to be position or park light.

You are confusing between what the individual specifications were that were 'available'. However, Volkswagen AG gave Europe-wide instructions that ONLY LongLife 3 specification oils should be used - ie 504.00/507.00. They notified all authorised main dealers, and updated ETKA to reflect that only 504.00 or 507.00 should be used. As for Comma Oils - they repeatedly LIE about MANY of their OEM approvals. erWin and BeVo from Mercedes Benz will give categoric detail about which oils have been officially tested to meet their own relevant standards.

@Black_Thunder Fabia Mk2 from 2010 so facelift and there were still the engine code for Fixed Servicing only VW 502 00 could be used for Fixed Servicng with TSI's and MPIs, and it still can be right up to now, Euro 6 / 2023. COMMA oils come in all kind of Specs and they produce oil for other international brands. Nothing wrong with the correct oil to the correct spec from COMMA, unless someone has proof otherwise. Something they will produce not just an opinion.

That’s the connection to the seat belt pre tensioner which forms part of the SRS system, nothing to do with the rear wiper. if it’s stopped not in a parked position then it may be seized through corrosion on the shaft, check the fuse

Well this is embarrasing. In my defense I have no documentation or owners handbooks and this car was advertised with a temp fault when I bought it last week. According to Skoda a blue or green light simply implies that a utility service is active! ie its supposed to do this. The blue symbol I thought was to do with coolant temperature may be oil temperature still not sure. When the car is luke warm / cold the light comes on and after a few minutes running it goes off. Just fitted a new timing chain kit and service but the car always ran perfect. Also found that VCDS only provides 2 output tests for the engine so will test cooling fan the old way. So far then no real problems but will come back if I find any. Thanks for your help Pete.

New Builds are New Type Approved models. Mk4 Octavia are not new as type approved before 2022.

Welcome to the forum. @ApertureSmight be the person that can help with the Cruise Control. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/368177-te-roomster-motorhome/page/2 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/471124-skoda-campster http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/493694-campervan-conversion-help-please

SSP_291_d1.pdf

Here you are, it does state check level and quality, so might be a good idea to possibly change for peace of mind. Edition 03.2018

It's just what I have come across after various googling on the topic of improving the sound quality (as well as just making the cabin as pleasant a place as possible). See here for one of many examples.

Its stage 1 remap, also DSG stage 1. Its so much faster but huge lack of traction. Spin wheels till 100km/h lol. Even bridgestone potenza's now. I really like the exhaust but would love to have the option with valve controlled making it louder. Will try to make a vid soon again.

If budget allows yes. The ST kit is the next step up from the AP in terms of the quality of the parts used and also the build. Damian @ DPM Performance

Is there a problem with long-life oils and remaps or just the Castrol Long Life oil, @toot? I'm due an oil change this year after a couple of years on Mobil 1 ESP 0W20. My mileage is ridiculously low, so I'm reluctant to change the oil every 12 months. (Car registered Q2 2019 and has under 15,000 miles on it.)

Hi, welcome, You'd probably be better posting in the relevant model section, could ask to transfer this thread to that section but you've not put what model you have and engine. Just looked you up and see it's an Octavia so I'll 'Report' the post and ask if it can be moved, to save duplicate threads, to Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ You could add Octavia to your name plate too to save confusion if you post in other sections later. Good luck. ETA: wow that was a quick transfer, well done Moderator.

It's ZR, I believe.

Sounds more like they aren’t able to diagnose the car properly and instead are loading up the parts cannon. the exhaust back pressure valve is just a throttle body in the exhaust to aid with dpf regen, did they fit a genuine part? chances of it being faulty are slim (but not 0) so really I’d be getting an auto electrical to check things over properly. (also hope you haven’t been charged for spark plugs as you have a diesel and there is no need for a spark of any kind, compression ignition, not spark ignition.)

I fitted a set of ST coils & springs last year as my original dampers & Eibach springs were 18 yrs old & the rebound damping was non-existent. The STs are excellent, well damped, not crashy & very comfortable. Much better than my previous tired set up. Good price & service from DPM too

Sadly just the one! A lovely 3:0 Audi, but with a DSJ box that I never got one with, hence back in a manual

Sadly, the trend for vehicle manufacturer's / importers / dealers to show such contempt for customers is becoming the new normal. My last car was also from a 'brand' that had developed this skill magnificently. Communication and customer service meant nothing to them, so it isn't just a Skoda or VAG thing. It was always my experience in business that customers are very forgiving of problems or delays so long as you keep them in the loop through frequent and accurate communication. These days good luck finding anyone who actually gives a damn, let alone delivers!

Yes fully aware of that, you can’t beat the torque of the vrs especially as it’s mapped that’s one thing you always miss🤣 we have a focus estate as the main car it’s only a 1.5 tdci very nice to drive but always catches me out when you want to overtake , you really miss that punch lol

Easily solved ....

There are a couple of different types. This one looks like the one that has three different heating circuits all controlled by separate relays. There's also another one that gets connected to a (beefy) +12v feed and ground and connects to can-bus and is then "told" by the car to regulate the output.

@eddytHow many miles has this engine done and how long have you owned it? You have spent a fair amount on parts already without any success.

They do it for the few submissions that will actually be usable and worth prosecuting. "Where action is proportionate and there is sufficient evidence to successfully prosecute the case at Court, the incident will most likely be dealt with via the fixed penalty system". There will be some people with 4k resolution recordings, that happen to catch an indisputably clear image of both the registration and the face of the driver... But in order to get that, they'll have to sift through the mountains of blurry crap shot in the pouring rain at night that shows only a bit of the scene, in which some driver went slightly over the white line due to a misjudged manoeuvre and, while he flashed the Hazards of Forgiveness, still deserves to be banged up for life due to his negligence. I may sound like I'm exaggerating, but we watched a bunch of YouTube compilations showing "Britian's WORST Drivers" last night... and there was barely anything you'd not get on a normal commute or trip down the shops. Certainly nothing that would even incur a FPN, yet these were the "WORST" that the Highway Coderatti could manage..... Given how many of these are on YouTube, I can only imagine the volumes of such that would flow through the app!!

I think we may be misunderstanding each other here... When IDE09731-ENG154511-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual is set to 7. The correct behaviour in automatic mode is that the individual profile colour will match whichever colour was last selected in manual mode. This is the feature that requires SW:4344 or SW:5344 onwards. Earlier SW versions cause a disco mode where the colour keeps changing between that last set in manual mode and that in the matching Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil channel. Look at the coding @ igrozan posted they have IDE09731-ENG154511-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual set to 1 which is the comfort profile and not available on their car. This means the individual profile will always have it's colour set by ENG153712-ENG154615-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_7 which in this case is 7 (happens to be lilac) - avoiding the above problem at the cost of functionallity. Reading the post by @bap33 again, I think that when in automatic mode, the colours are correctly working for the eco, normal, sport and individual profiles. Only the comfort profile is causing the disco effect. If so, I would try setting: - ENG153712-ENG154603-Ambientelicht Zuordnung der Farbe zum Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_1 to the colour you want for the comfort profile - IDE09731-ENG154511-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual to any profile you don't have, at a guess try 9 At this point, there should be no disco mode but the individual profile colour will be permanently set by the value in Fahrprofil-Fahrprofil_7 rather than taking whatever you choose in manual mode. Hopefully that makes sense and apologies for any confusion I've caused

You need to unpack the Zip to Desktop, or any other temporary folder. Then you need to copy all the folders and files to the root of the USB drive So for example F:\MIB31_xxxxxxxxx, not F:\OI_P41_EU_202025_Offline_Update folder name I am sure someone will tell you soon the update to map will not work, perhaps it wont (also there is no "update" map button, it does it in the background after a few hours if it does indeed load)

But, hey, you've minimised that crucial "arch gap" that the idiot babies hate so much, now all it needs is some 18's with rubber bands fitted!

Hey guys! finally got another Skoda, Fabia VRS this time! it was super cheap (sub £1500) and has 12 months MOT! had tons of modifications over its lifetime including: 2.5 inch full boost hose kit Dark side intercooler Egr delete Miltek full exhaust with oval tip Decat pipes heat wrapped Braided fuel lines Polo gti seats Mk1 Audi Tt 312mm discs and calipers Brembo pads Braided brake lines Skilla 6 paddle clutch Single mass flywheel Pioneer stereo we Stanceplus coil overs Polybush rear dog one, wishbone New bottom arms/track rod/ front wheel bearings, sump, fresh service, new sills and undersealed Aem air filter Boost gauge inside pod vent Remapped to 180 bhp Engine is on 130k! bodywork is really not great but I don’t mind! has a few issues like boot lock not working, to be honest on a whole all door locks seem to not work or are intermittent which is a concern, anyone know what I can do? I guess just replace the locks?

I don't believe it. It must be storing something up to spring a nasty surprise on you

Hmmmm, well from experience I’ve found the situation to be completely different. If I hadn’t had 4WD on a trip to Ireland in Dec 21, I’m sure I’d never have got home on the P7’s. I think is was five cars I passed who had to give up on the snow and ice for lack of grip and brakes, albeit two were already in the ditch - but the Superb carried on at a steady 20mph without any major dramas. It was the night decided that I’d fit AllSeason tyres after the P7’s were tired and did so in Dec ‘22.

Just finished and it starts raining... Shock. Cleaned inside and out. Rinse, snow foam, rinse, two bucket wash, ceramic waxed. Inside got upholstery cleaned, vacuumed, and a damned good clean.

People Remap cars with engines that are not running right, and without sorting out issues first. 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132-136 kW Twinchargers had issues, that was from the Factory and with standard parts, plugs and Engine Management. An APR Stage 1 map, a change of spark plugs from OE and not using the Castrol Long Life oil and 99 Ron and you were on a winner. The REVO stage 1 remap was and is crap. In my and in others opinion and experience. It was just not right as they had it when used on a road car. They did warn you about the engine issues, and their dealers still did remaps, and on dodgy engines. Said it was for 98 ron super unleaded and they could not say where in the UK there was 98 ron as it was already only 97 or 99 ron min on sale. They were hopeless with Customer Services and failures that were down to their Software & not the actual engines. There was a Company Person that replied on here quite a lot and was just clueless. SHARK. So RaceLine. were trusted. I trusted APR with Twin chargers. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/392363-remap-options-fabia-vrs 2011 when the Twinchargers in a Fabia were on sale for a year. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/206191-remap-for-mk2-vrs 2013 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/290877-fabia-vrs-twincharger-remapping ................. REVO did and still do make customers aware of issues and potential problems. As did i very very often. You can only try telling people, they might ignore that warnings.

GLWTS, but I’d imagine most 280/272 owners won’t be letting go of their pretty rare cars anytime soon.

Once was true, but is now an urban leg end due to a change in the law.