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For the benefit of those who are not technical: The mention of phase above is due to the cambelt being the part that times the engine. If phase is out, the camshaft timing will be off and the engine run rough, hard to start, not run at all, etc.

If it helps, my 1.4 tsi sounds similar to your video. They are a bit tappy with the bonnet up, can’t hear it in the car though.

Not time to change the cam belt. Skoda / VW UK have dropped the advice they appear to have never given their reason for giving for decades, well it was 4 years then changed to 5. Time to find out if it has been changed by someone without the gear and not much of an idea.

Suggest asking your local road safety committee for the loan of a hand-held speed camera. 80+ is unacceptable. Local Police should be able to advise who to contact.

I would at least get the noise inspected and as per @toot ask if there is evidence the timing belt has been renewed, is there any phase diagnostics check that can be checked. There are diagnostics for some engines but they tend to vary engine generation by engine generation. I wouldn't say you have to get a full inspection done unless you are doubting other aspects as well but an initial check of the operational noise before 6 months would be wise. See if any others with the 1.5act reply back on here as to what they hear relative to their motor noise as well... I Edit. Ps what does the oil on dip stick actually look like?

I would want to find out if the cam belt had been done at 5 years and done wrongly. This might be the issue arising because of some of those that have been doing 1.5 TSI ACT,s and that really should not of and not just because they were doing them £300 or less the main dealer prices. There are main dealers that have got 1.0 TSI,s and 1?5 TSI ACT,s running crap.

It is a belt on a 1.5tsi ACT which until just 6 weeks ago Skoda UK Skoda dealers were saying was due replacement at 5 years. Was the car possibly on lease from Motability? Was the first MOT done 2-1 month before the car was 3 years old? That can be a clue.

Changed the plastic aero undertray to a longer version, which in theory should help with better airflow underneath the car. Item #1 in the Reference image below. Will b interesting to c wat it does to the engine temps, and fuel economy, if anything. Comes with a fitting kit (screws & bolts). No cutting, modifications, or special brackets required. Remove old, and put in new. Car needs to b on jacks up front, or up on a hoist. Part No.: 5Q0825236Q (has now been superceded by 5Q0825236N) Next I'm getting the centre exhaust tunnel cover too. Item# 2 in the Reference image below. The Superb has the slim/short version of it already. 5Q0825229C is the longer version. The rest of the under trays, minus #6a and #6b, my Superb already has from factory. Topside:- Underside:- Overlay comparison:- Reference:-

The noise was never going to go through changing the gearbox oil, the mechanic was talking rubbish.

I’ve seen some others reporting a noise from the front end during slow traffic through town etc or slowing for lights, parking etc. I have over the last while replaced a few bits to help sort my suspension to a state I’m more happy with than the factory offering. When the front shocks were replaced along with top mounts and new bearings, it removed the usual rumble noise. however it still left the creaking/grinding noise that myself and others have mentioned. from around 10k the dealers have been greasing as usual to remedy the noise, which always came back. Now the warranty is up and it’s not an issue, the cause has been found in the lower arms. The bushes allowed enough flex/travel to actually rub the arm. I’ve replaced both front arms with Superpro TRC1070 items and the front end is now absolutely silent. Pics for reference

Hi, I recently had a problem where the fuel gauge showed empty even though the tank was half full. This I sorted out by removing the pump and level float sensor from the tank and fitting a new float level sensor. The sensor I bought from AutoDoc for about £12 plus about £10 postage. It came from somewhere in the EU and I was inmpressed with the service from AutoDoc. The part arrived within a week and was very well packed for what is quite a delicate part. The part was fairly easy to fit. The only tricky bit was disconnecting the electrical connectors from the sensor and from the new part (it came with connectors and wires attached). Once the connectors were disconnected the existing wires/connectors were made up to the new sensor. There are several YouTube videos which show how to remove the pump and sensor unit from the car. I trust this helps someone.

The wife and I are Animal Rescue Volunteers for the RSPCA and we have just become proud owners of a Octavia Estate. In the last we we have transported 1 dog, 6 chickens, one seagull, 24 snakes, 6 Kittens and today 8 gosling's. And before you ask, no, not all at the same time.

Thanks a lot everyone for your kind help! It has been appriciated a lot... You may not realise this (as it hasn't been told enough) but for you to be here and reply messages of some strangers might make their day and help them out a lot which they would never get otherwise. I would like to thank each and everyone of you from the buttom of my heart for being here and replying to us as some of us are very unfortunate not to get to learn any of these car knowledge from our families, friends etc. Trying to watch some videos on Youtube to learn some life skills are too tiring. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

You are joking right? You have a nine year old car bought second hand and you think the manufacturers should be shelling out for a repair, at what stage does that cease to be reasonable? 10 years, 15, 20? And for how many owners down the line? When I started motoring you were lucky if a new car got through its first MOT without needing chassis welding, Lancias were being brought back from the owners and crushed before they got to the first MOT. A vehicle would never get beyond 40K miles before needing a decoke and valve grind, by 60K miles the valve train would be rattling and the crankcase smoking with piston blowby, the big ends and main bearings would not last much longer. Exhausts? Lucky if the OE one lasted till the first MOT, the replacement would manage 18 months on average. Vehicles have got far more reliable and for some reason peoples expectations of the manufacturer have become much higher even when they did not buy the vehicle new and after many years. They still dont owe anybody anything after the initial warranty period which is double what it was not so long ago.

Lovely afternoon at Jbs for a stage 1 remap, made good figures on 99ron 148.3bhp 175.3ft/lbs mods are Nox intake and elbow adapter (from 🇧🇷) Nox Charge pipe + DV Apr Coil Packs Custom 2.25” Flexi back exhaust 99ron Petrol

There are 2 different MIB2 units fitted to the Golf. On your unit press and hold the menu button for a few seconds, now press the software update/version button. Look at the installed SW train version, this will tell you which unit you have. if it starts with MST2 and ends with T, MST2_EU_VW_XX_XXXXT, then you have a MIB2 Technisat unit and the patch should work, if it ends in D you have a Delphi unit and the patch will not work.

It's all about building a picture and being comfortable with answers. Yes, I agree they'll be less interested in answering questions on why so low miles, why 3 keys but if there is are possible faults they're on the hook for statutory warranty under consumer rights. First 30 days, if there is a fault you had right to return. First 6 months, faults assumed there at purchase. The date could be an oil change date. What does the oil look like on the dip stick? Edit 4 years is a long time without an oil change.. what is recorded on the .gov mot history for the car? Must be at least 2 mots shown and mileage at dates? If ghe noise is worrying you and doesn't seem right, now is the time to take to either a skoda or vw skoda focused independent and ask to check and report back. Preferably with something in writing the result of investigation. They should put that on the invoice/ report routinely anyway. Do not leave it 6 months, then get it checked and find out you've got a significant issue. It will be much harder to deal with in your favour.

It's hard on videos, sound recordings et al. especially if you don't own the same model engine for comparison. It does sound a bit rattly especially over on the left side facing front bonnet, it that where the timing chain or belt is? (Think I can see the timing cover there). What's the 29/5/23 date written on the engine cover? Why would it only have travelled 4k (edit 5k) miles in last 4 years? 14k first year by comparison?

They aren't going stiff, it's just the pressure inside the strut has been reduced so they don't offer as much force against the weight of the tailgate, which is substantial BTW. Safest approach is to have a second helper or a length of wood cut to size to support the tailgate in opened positioned. Or work with only one removed at a time holding the tailgate whilst the new one fitted if you can manage the one handed multi tasking and have everything arranged in reach. As for the clip, they may allow you to press on but clips need removing or pulling back to remove off ball joint. If you can't clip on, loosen or remove clip.

I am getting over 5.5 miles a kWh today. Average speed camera roads, coast and inland routes South West Scotland. 18-19*c weather and in Sport with low gen and AC on and 2 of us. 150 miles plus possible as is and maybe no more even less if I was to be driving slower than I can now legally. So all good in this weather and these roads. I very much doubt i will ever get 170 miles out of the MINI unless maybe on 16" wheels with 195 tyres pumped up really too high. Not going to be trying to but i do know a circular route from home to home that i have driven and ridden for over 30 years that can in the right conditions give as good a range / efficiency as is possible with an ICE or an EV. It is exactly 120 miles and i will give that a go next week probably. (There is an extra 20 miles route that i sometimes do and that will be after seeing if the 120 route can be done and not needing to head to a charger which there would be 3 places after 80 miles but none are reliable to rapid charge but a 7 kW AC would do.) It is not a slow drive or boring and it is very hilly and it is done in an anticlockwise direction if to see economy, going clockwise is nothing like as economic / efficient. I will use AC or heating as needed, or open the windows or sunroof and no way drive any slower than i drive in anything i do drive. I might put the tyres up a couple more psi while the weather is good but at 36 PSI they feel fine even in the wet. I do want to know how the range is with the car on the tyres it has and in temps in the teens & when the roads and weather is a bit colder but they are getting changed as soon as any frosts, ice or snow. ............

The best answer is to take the car to a mechanic who understands mechanics and is not just a 'keyboard jockey' with a diagnostics tool. Diagnostics only cover parts of the car managed by electronics, and that excludes nearly all of the mechanical parts.

And the official VAG solution to this design error? Slather the console bushes in grease 🙄 I've been saying this was the problem for a long time and their solution was ludicrous and in denial , thanks for posting the photographic evidence 👍

@Graham Butcher, You are wrong so try an EV. You can nip on, but not motorway speed or back road and Cruise Control. In some EV,s. The video is 4 longest range cars in UK tested. PS are you a regular 5 hour driving person? I am and did 60,000 miles in an EV with limited range. But when I was sitting charging and posting here there were Commercial Travellers / reps sitting doing their work or having a break next to me. 1,000 plus miles a week drivers.

Getting WLTP type range certainly is not near impossible if you drive like a WLTP kidology regime does. Actually you can better the published figures. But then you would be going less than 50 miles in every hour probably and maybe even 40 miles in an hour. Matt Watson might start in the dark and it would be about 7 hours before being stuck in the middle of the night. But then seeing how late it gets dark if up north and how early it is light and then who really cares. Ps. I got better that the MINI Cooper S electric official figures last night. But I have discovered in 3 days that is achievable not in Mid, Green or Green +, with max regen but in Sport at NSL 60 mph and there abouts and not sparing the horses. Light regen and hardly ever lift off the accelerator..

The car does not need to go for a Service to get the Service and Warranty history from Skoda. Ask a main dealership or Skoda Customer Services what is on the cars Service and Warranty history also if it required the Recall / Service campaign software update that some 1.5 TSI ACT got as part of a Full RECALL action.

Fixed Took the tailgate trim off - popped the rubber gaiter between tailgate and body and found 3 wires cut/damaged. Unclipped the wires from one of the clips on the tailgate to get a bit more cable to play with, soldered/shrink wrapped the joints after extended the wires a little and job done. I think the earth wire that was cut was touching a live feed to the boot lock cable or one of the others. Thanks all

Wow that's very low mileage to have knackered shocks. The front shocks on my car have done nearly 10x that mileage. Maybe the previous owner(s) lived in an area with a lot of speed bumps and didn't have much mechanical sympathy. Did you make them aware they were leaking at the 3 month point and did you ask for them to be replaced? Did you also make them aware that your MOT flagged them as advisories? Agreed, I would be pushing hard for the dealer to replace them or contribute at least 50% of the cost.

Soon, the old girl as looking as good as new... 😎 *footnote from first post - the chrome strip is made from purest unobtainium, fashioned by blind nuns in the Carpathian Mountains. Hence, the retail price of £104...🤦‍♂️

This morning starting charging at 43% and it is 14.5*c and just driven 200 yards to charger it took 35 minutes to 99% and showing 120 mile range. Charging with heating and heated seat and radio on. 18 kWh & FREE. 380 miles since new and so far paid £4.20 at home and 71 pence on a AC public and yesterday £5.97 on one of the DC chargers to charge 17 kWh. Happy with the car and comfort. Today I will try green mode as going up to some wind farms and onto some good driving roads. 'Dynamic traction control' is very good. The warning ⚠️ or just info comes up. "Dynamic traction control activated. Maximum traction on loose surfaces. Restricted driving stabilisation and driver assistance.". It is just on a toggle switch beside the 4 drive modes & the regen mode. No searching on a screen. The screen menu,s and selection is good though with I-drive or touch screen and no lag. Ps. Does not want to go to 100% which is fine as regen would be unavailable.

Is it possible that the reason the zips are undone is because they stripped the seats down and threw the covers into a washing machine?

Haggle like your wallet depends on it I ordered mine at about 15% off list price after to-ing and fro-ing over prices with my local dealer and just as we were about to shake I said "oh, and that includes the reversing camera doesn't it" at which point he'd probably had enough of me and agreed. I'd already specced the tow bar, fancy front lights and a full size spare wheel and held back on the camera until the last minute even though I knew I wanted it. Always haggle for a free tank of petrol too - sounds daft but better them pay for it than you. It think it used to be What Car that showed the RRP and a "but you should aim to pay" price for every available make and model. I was trading in my previous Mk II Superb but the balance was being paid cash. However I've also seen it suggested that you may get a better price out of them by taking finance (as they get a kick-back on that) but then pay the finance off straight away and pay no interest at all. Obviously check very carefully whether that's a viable option.

Good find. The tapping was a bit of a red herring. Just enough to make the wire connect enough for a start....

Link/source to this? What about visitors? This sounds like the car park collapse FUD. https://www.speakev.com/threads/second-hand-evs-are-cheaper-than-ice.179449 No one is forcing anyone to switch to EV. ICE are a viable choice for next 12 years. You can continue to buy second hand ICE for next 30+ years.

To apply variable service regime if car is set to fixed interval, requires a configuration change with a suitable diagnostics machine. Also, if it is set to variable already, you can not reset it without a suitable diagnostic machine. Variable regime is not 730 days only. It is up to 2 years with an oil quality algorithm that reduces from there. I would always recommend sticking to 12months / 10k for all cars. But sone engines, it is especially important.

I think you would certainly have to driving a lot slower than 40mph and coasting a lot and hardly ever needing to touch the brakes. While that style of driving might well be possible in some very remote parts of the country and also of course the driver needs to have all the time in the world to make the journey. When in reality life is very seldom like that, we have time to keep, other drivers etc that cause you to brake, people tailgating you, because you're driving too slow, even if they can see your approaching a hazard. Oh, sorry, my bad.🙄

The comment says it all really 😒I have nothing to add other than keep clear of mechanics like that.

Over here in UK, new cars tend to only come with a pump and a can of gunk unless you specify that you want a spare at the ordering stage. When I ordered my new car back in 2013, it was a company back then and my colleagues all just assumed that the cars would have all come with a spare. Most thought that I was just stating the obvious and laughed at me, it turned out I had the last laugh as some had irreparable failures due to punctures that the sealant gunk was incapable of sealing due to the sheer size of the hole and they got stranded at the roadside waiting for roadside assistance. 🤣

No spare? What a joke. Maybe spares are deleted in some markets. In our market Skoda supplies a space saver with the car. Space savers aren't ideal, but way better than nothing. Mine got me out of a mess on day 2 of ownership when l sustained an irreparable puncture, only 100km on the car. A can of repair goo would have been useless. If you don't have a spare, suggest you get one.

Well, if you really need the range, there's always rapid charging. If you are not short on range, just grazing, does charging speed matter? If you are saying grazing at many places for many short stays and thus charging speed differences add up. I'd say the effort of getting the cable and plugging in so many times also add up, might as well just rapid charge once and overnight charge the rest. When I'm out about, if no overnight charging option, I usually use Tesla supercharger network during their the off-peak time so that's not much more expensive than peak time home charging. In the few instances I'm beyond Leaf home range, I'd use rapid charging. I think the point was how a tabloid dramatise a non-story range test.

Welcome. I see it is a 2018 car but I had to look at your profile to see that as on a phone that is the only way. How many miles has the car done? What engine has it, a 1.0, 1 5 or 2.0 TSI? When was it serviced last and were the spark plugs replaced? Was it bought from a private individual or a trader / dealer? Just now I can not see or hear videos but later will try to. I will flag your post for a mod to move it to the Octavia section .

Thought i had updated this thread since but I guess not. Was hoping to avoid driving this since it's last excursion in the UK. Lucky had a spare damaged but still working foglamp to put in. Since poorly painted to match. Lips still damaged and needing painted too. Tyres are all on the limit and I do not want anything less than pilot sports on it now. Needs tracked badly also. Right rear caliper is sticking slightly. Enough to make noise when you turn left. Timing belts still due and it's developed a slight tick. Sounds like lifter tick and I only hear it when the windows are down around town. It's slight. Having said all this you'll be surprised to hear that It's been back in England. Retrorides was on and it was the event I have been getting the justy ready for. The justy was running perfect right up until I left town, then it wasn't anymore. Limped it home, dumped the luggage into this and flew down to the ferry terminal, no checks, no prep to it just went. Fair play to it, it didnt miss a beat. Made me feel a bit bad about neglecting it in favour of the justy. Some interesting stuff there, Not happy the justy failed but I still got there. And it was nice to be able to cruise at 70 and still get over 65mpg. Writing this on the ferry back so not done yet. Figure it'll have done just shy of 700 miles this weekend. And even though I really have been trying to avoid driving it, for the time being I've been commuting in it. I'm temporarily doing a 50 mile a day commute, vs where I normally work being a 6 mile commute. When I get back I'm going to prioritise getting this back to top shape before anything else. I think I have enough spares to get the justy going again, and the vRSDI I have enough to get it back together as it is.

From the start: Bilstein B6 damptronic (DCC) shocks front and rear. Bilstein front top mounts. ordered direct from bilstein. original springs were perfect and reused. If I was doing it again I would still pick the OEM spring as it now rides perfectly without lowering, and allows comfort and handling equally, without compromising one or the other. OEM bearings for front top mounts front drop links rear drop links ordered from TPS which is who supplies dealer parts. Front lower super pro arms TRC 1070 ordered from Progressive parts front and rear H&R anti roll bars (set to stiff.) ordered from H&R directly.

This is still my boss level odo shot. One I doubt I'll ever get again.

Yes, there are airbag thefts but it’s nowhere near on the scale of Cats and the cars themselves. It’s a very amateurish scaremongering communication piece.

I check my vehicle very often, the Yeti struts are visible through the wheelarch, I have had the suspension apart to replace drop links etc, never any misting or leaking, then during one of my mammoth towing journeys last year I realised the overladen trailer was making the car porpoise and the oscillations did not seem to be damped, the suspension is so stiff and with a short wheelbase its hard to do a bounce test, the bonnet and wings are not strong enough to push on without denting them, I did it on the slam panel and was shocked to find I had zero damping on the front end, it really was not apparent on normal driving. Both had leaked out a lot of oil and had done so in a very short time period at probably 105K miles.

I've ordered Octavia Style 1.5 mHEV in 27/02/2022 in Lithuania. received the car on 07/21/2023 happy

I would also start by checking for broken wires between the car body and the hatchback https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497263-sencom-tailgate-loom-repair/

I ended up replacing the lower edges of both wings are they too were really rough. Like a Tea-bag! (See above pictures). Not like you'd know it from the exterior though. A dab of filler, seam sealer and primer after this.

Clamped into place, it's almost in the right position, just needs a tap with a hammer here and there. Started tack welding it in, using a broken seam / pulse welding so the weld runs around the complete repair. Hopefully your repair will as good as this, if not better. Mindful to keep the horizontal line on the sill as straight as possible. The patch is also attached through the plug welds to the inner sill, don't forget that one. Still got the lower edge of the wing to repair of course but that's a simple enough one. It stil needs more grinding at this point but I'm waiting on a finger grinder (power file) to get into the corners. Near impossible with round discs! And this one gives you an idea of how much the patch went in, I really couldn't leave the corrosion in. Once the wing is repaired I'll add the smallest amount of filler, prime and reseal the lower sill edge to keep the rust out. So that update with paint to come at some point but this is awkward job really, the rest is pretty straight forward really. Hopefully these pics give others an idea of what to expect and how I went about with the repair. Rich

That rubbery underseal made quite a mess / cloud of smoke being removed by the way! (cough, cough). Note the peppering of rust at the bottom of the wing. You wouldn't have even known that was there as it corroded from inside.... 😕 Let's start chopping it out then! Angle grinder and cutting disc at the ready! If you are making your own panel try to take the template out in 1 piece if you can. Lower returns are fine, just some surface rust to clean up, the inside of the sill was good, just mucky due to factory waxoil type stuff.... I've had repair panels of varying quality over the years and I didn't need a complete sill so with some 20 gauge (0.9-1.0mm) mild steel I started making a replacement up. (I didn't photograph all of this sorry, I was busy making!) The templace was made from the old one with some overlap to allow for the width of the cutting disc. Also I started forming the 1st swage line that runs from front to back... Yeah, that doesn't look too bad. You can see on the right where I had to drill out some spot welds where it attached to the inner sill. Don't miss those. Also marked where the access rubber plug was too. With a bit of Racing tape, OK it's blue Scotch tape really, let's see how it fits. Marked a centre, drilled and filed out the hole for the plug / bung. Also the 2nd swage line has been added so it looks a little more factory. Offered up. Slightly notched around the raised / water drain area below the plug. Next up will be to weld a return to the panel and start welding it back in. Stay tuned Furby fans! 😛