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Car in question - Seat Ibiza 1.4 TSI DSG 2010 - 85,000 miles So I had the pleasure of my girlfriends car making a nice clunk noise under acceleration. On further inspection the noise was from the gearbox even at idle albeit quieter. After jacking the car up and driving it through its gears, one of the clutch forks (visible outside the gearbox) could be seen moving side to side when in or out of gear. When force was applied to this the noise disappeared. This confirmed the fault with the clutch and possible further issues on gearbox input shaft failure. The next step was to order all associated parts - clutch, all bolts, all tools and read up on the repair procedure. Once all the parts were here we got to working, gearbox whipped out and oil drained (no signs of any metal fragments which is a good start) and no play on the input shafts from what i could feel. The old clutch pack was removed and inspected (LuK not genuine) so it is not the original and had a fair bit of meat left on the clutch packs so to me it wasnt the oldest thing. Next the clutch release bearings were inspected and although the smaller one was fine, the larger one had fallen apart and all the ball bearings were missing meaning this was running metal to metal and was full of rust! Point of failure detected. I then had to find the cause of failure - First thing to note were no shims were installed at all for clutch freeplay adjustment and also no pilot bearing was installed in the flywheel. The release bearings also didnt match the condition of the clutch assembly. Fault and cause have now been identified - clutch fitted by someone not knowing what they were doing and cutting corners. Solution - new clutch pack and set it up correctly! Whilst here we noticed a few more issues - a small coolant leak behind the supercharger and a split CV boot (a fair bit of grease had left and dirt had entered). These parts have been ordered, but thinking ahead, rather than struggle to get the supercharger out from behind the engine and as the coolant would be getting drained anyway, also it was a pain to get the box off the engine, let alone getting it back in! I took the decision to pull the engine completely which took around 15 minutes. (Anyone wondering why the AC rad and compressor are sitting like that - I didnt want to drain the AC system for the front end or engine removal so they were tucked to the side) The clutch has now been fitted and shimmed correctly - this is done with some fairly precise measuring (down to 0.01mm) and used a depth gauges, straight edge, vernier caliper, micrometer and torque wrench. As well as the maths and equations involved. Engine and gearbox now mated back together and refitted with new coolant pipe behind the supercharger. Just got to wait for the last few gaskets/bolts/CV boot kit to turn up now to get the rest of the car fitted back up. For anyone interested in price - A few garages quoted between £1200-1500 for the complete job. I have done the job (including buying the specific clutch removal/fitting/shimming tools) and replacing all TTY bolts and gaskets for £600. If anyone is interested in buying/renting the 0AM clutch fitting/removal/shimming tool for pre 2011 clutches, feel free to get in touch.

No pet name for my car. 😂 Autonomie (french word) has actually 2 meanings for us : Autonomy and Range. Range is the one I should have used.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/money/electriccars/article-13159533/Mini-Countryman-Electric-review.html?ico=mol_mobile_money Considering that in the above article Ray Massey is a rather large overweight "motoring journalist" who often looks uncomfortably squeezed into even the largest cars and is rarely photographed in any anything smaller, I looked at the photo of him standing next to this latest "Mini" and thought how bloody large and bloated it's become. Mini by name but not by nature.

I'm sure you are correct about the physical brake connection but equally would not be surprised if some like Tesla dont have the failsafe. In both cases modern drivers are usually completely at a loss when they lose servo assistance and genuinely believe that they dont have brakes or steering, how many times have I read people saying just that when their engine has died, its sad to think that some will only think to use their phone rather than their physical capabilities and some have even died while doing so. Braking without servo assistance against a runaway engine on wide open throttle (which would render an old school servo on a petrol engine inoperative anyway) requires almost superhuman effort, I remember seeing an American test film for GM I think where the tester managed it but the force required was colossal, anything but a full hearted do or die stomp on the pedal at speed against full engine power would glaze the pads and probably make it impossible. And if the vehicle is an EV with their often stupidly high torque outut then an electronic failure could be the perfect storm, full unrestrained motor winding melting traction current against unassisted manual braking from a terrified driver. There really should be a kill switch, a proper one where you pull a huge handle that disconnects all power, also the vehecle would have to have manual brakes and steering albeit unassisted. One of the reasons that I choose to remain with manual transmission is having a clutch for if the worse happens.

Is it a 15 or 190 diesel. I’m pretty sure those gearboxes were the DQ250 wet clutch. Should have had oil changes every 40k miles. 2wd or 4wd ?

My Mk3 (1.2 TSi 110) came with 16 inch wheels, but I swapped them for some 15 inch from a Rapide. They fit over the front disks but its not so easy to clean the inside of the front wheel as you can't get a brush betwen the disk backing plate and the wheel. The car rides much better with the higher profile tyres though.

Looking at the pictures they handled this without much damage to the vehicles

If the battery is an EFB, why don’t you run the “reconditioning” charging program. I’ve done that once a year on the original EFB in my wife’s 2015 Polo 1.2TSI and and it does improve the battery’s health - ie its CCA as measured using a CTek battery tester. To be honest, I’m almost annoyed how well this original, ie factory fitted Exide EFB is behaving 49k miles and 8.5 years from new, but in reality, a car’s battery life tends to be linked to how a car gets used - not intended as a criticism, just the way it is.

Decided it was time to do something about the minuscule shifters on my 280. Leyo Motorsport. Hoped they would be good but they have far exceeded my expectations. Fit, finish, feel, sound. Highly recommended.

https://www.dictionary.com/browse/autonomy https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autonomy Initially, I thought Autonomy was a pet name for Bap33's car. https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/cui-bono/202006/what-is-autonomy-and-why-is-it-so-difficult-achieve

The number of failures in the DQ381 growing would make sense now because it was first used in 2017. More now out of warranty and also more likely not to be following a service schedule. With the mechatronic unit on this gearbox sharing the oil with the gearbox i am very surprised that 80,000km was ever thought of as suitable. 40,000 makes a lot more sense.

which (on the face of it) appears to contradict the figures at the below link. Whilst there may be a grain of truth in that SUVs/4x4s/Pickups are involved in more pedestrian fatalities isn't that simply a natural result of more of those type of vehicles being on the road. The overall trend is down. https://www.gov.uk/government/statistics/reported-road-casualties-great-britain-pedestrian-factsheet-2022/reported-road-casualties-in-great-britain-pedestrian-factsheet-2022 Between 2004 and 2022: fatalities were down 43% from 671 to 385 serious injuries (adjusted) decreased by 42% pedestrian traffic (distance walked) increased by 16%

The Dinitrol kit I've used is linked below and contains an extension wand that reaches well down the sill so you can rust proof from drain points. On my Superb they were either end behind the wheel arch liners -- not sure re the Octavia III (I'll check my son's mkIII next time I see it). Look out for any drain holes / and or bungs - good access points for Dinitrol extension. I've done all the door/boot/bunnet bottoms on our fleet as well as sills, some chassis etc. Re Owatrol - simply clean and hand wire brush any mud / debris. You don't have to remove light surface rust, Then cover either with the aerosol (great for quick cover of suspension etc) or paint on with a brush (great for blathering spring cups etc). As an example my wife got a a garden ornament that you hung up a few years ago and within a day or so it was quickly looking awful with rust and she was rather upset - I dried and blathered with Owatrol and it's still looking ok many years later. Also in addition we painted her 1.2 Panda's rusty sump with Owatrol and it's still looking ok. All of the above makes a mess - worth an old ground sheet below if you have one. Leave a while for it to settle after treatment so you don't leave a trail of rustproofing stuff! Links:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0076L4BII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Paint-Additive/dp/B0038LWMFY/ref=sr_1_2_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662684&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Additive-0-500/dp/B002YXXQJS/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662754&sr=8-3 I had some trapped debris behind my wheelarch liners and a sill drain was blocked - used a thin knitting needle to clear. Offending garden ornament at the bottom:-

^^^ So a TAXI / Private hire car is a tool of the job. Get it right, know the potential issues. If you can have a Warranty Covering a Taxi then get it. Other member learned the hard way, but then that was 1.6 TDI,s and another with a DQ200. Warranty did not cover a TAXI. Are you buying a Used 2023 or something from Stock? With a new car before First Registered you can extend the Manufacturers Warranty, But used just extend a Warranty, but Taxi,s Couriers etc can be excluded. If a DQ381 DSG i would want a warranty covering it past the Manufacturers Warranty.

Once you’ve sorted this ditch the locking bolts for normal ones. No one steals alloys anymore.

Running their cashback offer again offer.michelin.co.uk/pim4-uk Up to £100 for buying 4 Valid until the end of the year

Thanks for chiming in. I've already got a MOI3 not a MEN3. I'm not even sure you can get a MEN3 unit in Australia - our base models are usually equivalent to a UK mid-spec as Skoda is positioned as a semi-premium brand here. But I've got a 2020 Skoda Octavia RS with everything but Skoda Connect (OCU), heated steering wheel, and 360 camera - because none of those options are offered here. I only posted the picture of the MEN3 to demonstrate to @Mario_Delgado that there is more space behind the display than an MOI3 display would suggest. But to recap what I want to do, is see if it's possible to fit an Enyaq 13" display in place of my MOI3 display - achieving the look of the new facelift Octavia minus the the MIB4 of course. But I have no idea if my infotainment unit would support that - I don't know if anyone would aside from Skoda because I can't see anyone who has tried it.

If there was an issue that left the car cruising at speed and unresponsive to throttle or other inputs then I doubt physical friction brakes would be able to overcome the max torque of the electric motor for long. You could have tens of kw available to the motor and the brakes wouldnt last too long before fading.

The driver / owner has a choice, do not get one of these vehicles engineered to have low emissions under a WLTP test regime. Drive before you buy, or lease. It is not going into N, but it is disconnecting from drive. The engine is lubricated by oil for start ups. It is not like engine shut down, Stop / Start, ACT / COD etc has not been about for over a decade.

Yes, I tend to either roll the car forward "half a wheel rotation" then get the areas missed during the initial washing - or hope to park it after being out in it, with the front wheels in a different position - the first option works best! Edit:- removed an "out" !

6speed 150 diesel in superb will be wet clutch DQ250. Pretty reliable. I ran one with 230hp 500nm for 110k miles no issue on a 4wd estate

12v sockets remain live and usb-c sockets go off. You'll need to get a usb power lead for the dash cam if you want it to power off when leaving the car.

This also came in the mail: An air quality sensor. Whilst perusing VCDS, I noticed this, which remained after clearing out prevailing fault codes: Address 08: Auto HVAC (E87) Labels:| 3V0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3V0 907 044 AJ HW: 3V0 907 044 AJ Component: AC Automat H32 3701 Revision: 20K05000 Serial number: 00000B00056520 Coding: 12110004000400011005104100101102 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X 002012 ROD: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X_002_VW37.rod VCID: FCAA18F7D669045AF3B-80A8 Rear air conditioning block 1: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 3V0 907 049 C HW: 3V0 907 049 C Component: E265KlimaHeck H02 0101 Serial number: 00000000000000000000 Coding: 000000 1 Fault Found: 263425 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [00001001] - Internal System Fault Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 6 Reset counter: 254 Mileage: 164940 km Date: 2024.03.01 Time: 16:27:21 Outside temperature: 5.0 ∞C Voltage terminal 30: 11.9 V System run time-Engine running time: 0 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s Air quality status: Malfunction System run time-Engine running time: 0 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s Normally it's not good practice to just lob things at stuff because the computer tells me to, but I decided to do so anyway because: This particular second hand sensor was £15 from eBay The location is under the cowl, and when I'm changing over the suspension (and possibly investigating the windscreen washer woes I'm having), I'll probably need to remove the cowl/plenum cover. The workshop manual calls it the plenum cover so I'll probably stick with that. There's a plethora of cheap versions of this sensor, so it's one those where one could replace it 3 or 4 times before perhaps determining that a genuine replacement might have been better value. This is all assuming just replacing it will make the error go away of course. Hopefully this pops in when I sort out the front suspension. Maintenance: £1336.92 (+£15.00) Upgrades: £315.00 Miscellaneous: £584.95

TBH, I would have thought, if it was not news to anyone, then no response needed. I look at forums as a convenient site for gathering information on a topic, both video and text as I like to think that similar minded folks have already seen it and present to others as something that may be of interest and could save me a long trawl through various sites to find the info, in other words a time saver🙃 . The rise in Chelsea Tractors does also impact on EVs as many of them now are electric.

A fairly rough guide to the connection types If you are looking at Optical connectors, they are often referred to as"Toslink" and the connectors are really cheap. You should take care when plugging them up, as they are slightly more fragile than a traditional connector (but not too much). They also have a fairly obvious symmetry to them ensuring they plug up in the correct way, they aren't cylindrical like a 'normal' jack plug. HDMI is the connector that we use for things like BluRays/DVD players etc but many years ago some clever engineers figured that as the cable carries both video and audio, it can be used as an audio only cable. This is where "ARC" comes in. It stands for "Audio Return Channel" and carries not just bog-standard sound, but also things like Dolby Digital 5.1 and other stuff. The other stuff can include switching things on and off remotely and other clever things. In recent times the standard has become "eARC" (not relevant on a 15 year old telly as it won't have it), but this adds the latest digital sound encoding stuff like Dolby Atmos and audio sync things. An old telly may not even have "ARC" capability anyway, but it's interesting to know a little about these things, I think. In terms of connecting things in the future, Optical will probably die out eventually, as ARC/eARC over HDMI is superior. The irony is in Broadcasting Sound, Optical cable has become the norm over traditional copper cables Ah for the good old days when I understood more stuff

You got me! It's got worse recently because having moved to Dordogneshire I do get to speak and hear English now but with other Franglais speakers.

Time will tell & hopefully the road testers will just how grippy when not on roads in Portugal on OEM tyres. Those buying the cars might request All Season / All Weather tyres if not an option from ordering. It is nice to know from these journalists / reviewers what they do handle like on rainy or cold roads or maybe a bit of snow / ice on UK roads / cambers.

If we hadn't changed the way we do road signs for hills i would have thought 95% was good too 😉

5% is one in twenty that sounds like a big gamble to me

That's what I was first thinking AG Falco. Not sure if there is a headphone socket. I don't remember seeing one but I'd be surprised if it didn't. If it doesn't have a headphone output then it seems a sound bar with a digital optical connection is probably the way to go although he has stated that it's not bothering him that much at the moment, so I'll just wait and see if it gets worse. Thanks for all the replies.

What response are you looking to get? Were root's response to points in the video you shared earlier not sensible? Major points Geroff's video can be summarised in a paragraph or two. It saves everyone time and effort. If you want to get your point across, just spell it out. Honestly, I don't browse forums to find videos, I browse forums to read text, I go to youtube.com to find youtube videos. The rise in SUV otherwise known as Chelsea tractors are not exactly related to EV's.

Thanks for your response. I'm still sticking with my original posting. TDI 2.0 engines and short journeys do not mix. My point comes from during lockdown, we had a lot of peeps reporting issues with poor performance (very low mpg), battery issues and issues with dpf light (ie high calculated ash build-up). The MIL light will also be triggered if pressure levels are too high pre-dpf due to blocked dpf. I agree that modern diesels are waayyy better than diesels from even 10 years ago, but most peeps buy a diesel for high mpg, low running costs. Of course the car will do it's best to keep the dpf clear but it will be at the expense of the cars longer term performance if a long occasion journey is not performed. Of course there are numerous points of view on here and elsewhere, but I express my experience based on driving and owned/owning numerous different permutations of the MK3 Octavia. My local dealer also says that my cars are also mechanically in excellent state of repair when I bring my cars to them (and hence my servicing costs are super-low).

That's good to hear. I'm still planning to do my DQ381 at 8 years, but that will be under 40K miles. It's 4.5 years now and hasn't even cracked 20K miles yet.

I'm wondering what will happen with MIB3 development once MIB4 is more widely released. The new MIB4 system seems like a half generation forward like how MIB2 was to MIB2.5. From what I've seen of the MIB4 it looks like the mapping remains identical and the control screens for other modules look functionally the same (e.g. driver assist, air conditioning, vehicle settings). It's basically a UI update with more processing power - which makes me wonder about future retrofit possibilities.

I fully agree. I rather read a well documented thread with many Q&A than several short and hence 'superficial' ones.

No worries, the air won't get upstream the brake line, unless you leave the brake line open upon removing the caliper (and even then the air will not go upstream). The moment you undo the brake line bolt, it will start dripping and you want to plug the line immediately. The fluid will come from the brake fuel reservoir in the front, make sure it's full before you start the job and check it as frequently as you lose the fluid for some reason. If you leave it unattended, there is a chance of emptying the vessel and subsequently air in the system (another magnitude of bleeding the system, you don't want that). The brake line itself is bolted to the caliper with a banjo fitting, so you can plug it either with a suitable plug (ca 10mm, for instance wind some electrical tape on the pencil) or a bolt, 2 washers and nut. I wouldn't use hose clamp - the line is stiff like a stick and if you have some badass hydraulic clamp, I reckon you can damage the line. It's not super critical to fully close it, few drops a minute is ok (put a tray under it). As long as the front reservoir is full. Perhaps you cah use some rubber blocks to close the banjo fitting from both sides and clamp it, haven't tried that. I didn't see a way to pre fill the caliper as I was doing the job first time and almost danced a voodoo dance to stretch the boot onto the piston... Looking back, it's a 30 min job Plus when you rewind the piston, it will make the prefilled fluid come out and create a mess. After you reassemble the caliper and reattach the brake line, just use the bleeding valve, it will fill allright. (Naturally, you first rewind the piston and then connect the line, otherwise you will pump the air upstream ). Can't overstate it - check again the front fluid tank, it will use like quarter of a tank or so to fill the caliper. The seal repair kit on ebay is something like £6,80, you need some brake fluid too, I reckon it's worth DIY to get some tinkering experience. Cheers!

Red is my 2nd favourite Karoq colour and your's looks really good with everything else black. I really wanted my MY2019 1.0SE Tech DSG to be in creamy white, but had no choice but to accept the metallic red car they offered (& pay quite a bit extra) as that was the only one still available, with no more 1.0 DSGs coming into the country. White has 2 practical advantages as well as looking good to my eyes - it's the most visible colour to other motorists, so just a little less suscepible to collisions and it reflects a bit more of the sun's heat away in summer. Grey is probably the worst colour for visibility, particularly if driven without lights, but some of the more subtle non metallic greys I reckon do look rather smart. White's downside is it probably needs washing more frequently & I do seem to be getting away with doing that just 2-3 times a year nowadays with my red car - I'm not proud. I could black out the grill surround and paint the wheels and mirrors black and people would then think I'm driving around in a Sportline too, except the 16" steel wheels with high profile tyres are a giveaway.

Springs fine mate

I just called into another garage and he have me a 2032 and all worked first time. No need to reset/use emergency key! Thanks all!

I'm waiting for the question before suggesting an answer.

Get it up on a ramp and check the condition of all suspension components, bushes, arb links, shock absorbers etc. Some hefty pushing and shoving might identify the squeaky bits. Might just need cleaning up and some silicone spray or penetrating oil applied here and there. Or some bushes or components need changing. A crowbar can be used to check play in bushes.

The standard spec of Bolero over the years has not included sat nav, until MIB3 it simply wasn't possible to add sat nav to a Bolero you had to swap to an Amundsen or Columbus head unit - so being able to add sat nav to a Bolero (at a cost) is a step forwards.

So here's a few more pics of the bits as I unpack them and try and reduce some of the clutter. The rear springs have rubber mounts top and bottom, standard fare. Autodoc had a mish mash of different brands, so it's "Magnum" for the lowers, and "Topran" for the...tops: The Eibach rear springs, R21093: With a dry fit of those rubber mounts: I expect the stub is there for alignment when installed to wherever it goes on the rear subframe. Then it's the rear damper bits, some top mounts, which I ended up going with Sachs for: With the standard bump stop and covers, Febi Bilsteins for both: No sooner had I started to pack these all up and tucked to the side, then these arrived: The front dampers! So the 23-254343 B6 Damptronics. The Eibachs are R16391, so a quick check for general fitment: With the associated gubbins for the damper, bump stops, covers, and bearings and top mounts, SKF top bits and Febi Bilstein again for the bump stop and covers: Now, I will probably be forever debating whether I should have stuck with B4s or even OEM for the sake of maintaining comfort. I spent a good few days scouring the internet and gauging up prices. If I based the prices on https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/ as an example, then a B4 set was coming to £1137.42, and B6 £1232.10, so pricing wasn't going to be a massive deciding factor (it was £300-£400 difference, then sure). It was a then a case of trying to beat that, and with some creative eBaying, there are these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155045005935 for £499.95. Some additional strategy involved me adding these on my watch list, and waiting to see if the seller would send me an offer, which they did to end up with the £474.95 that I ended up paying. I felt it was too hard to ignore. So I'm now committed to the B6s. Technically, there's nothing stopping me now from assembling the front struts as all the components are there, so I'll be back to rummaging in my garage for my spring compressors and then see where the mood takes me during the week, otherwise it'll be something for the weekend! Maintenance: £799.83 (+£474.95) Upgrades: £676.49 Miscellaneous: £604.95

With circa 320 bhp, I get around 21-23mpg on a very short commute and around 36 on a decent run. I’d imagine if it were a 320bhp V8, I'd guess it’d be closer to 10-12mpg, so no complaints here.

Roof and Spoiler wrap

My new toy.... MY2020 1.5 DSG SE...... shame its not the SE L I wanted but genuine 4.5K miles was too alluring. Returning my company XC60 phev on Friday so a welcome to retirement I guess.

Hello and welcome! 😊

So a little update: EVERYTHING WORKS. Let's start a "Journey Diary - Guide" so that everyone that wants to do it can follow the steps and update. First of all, the previously mega link posted above (here) contains all the files needed. I did everything myself with the help of @Lennart, not diffucult at all, but the responsability is yours alone. Updating from the ancient 0156 is not that difficult, it's just like any other update for the MIB3, but it breaks Navigation System. This is intentional and it's because Skoda changed the license and offers Navigation as a SWaP now. You can check in the Service Menu (long press menu button) that no 00071C00 FEC is installed and in the supported FECs it doesn't even show up as available to install. According to the 2 TPI in the mega folder (one older in English, one recent 2024 in Italian) Navigation is now a SWaP, and since it already was included in the car package when bought you can reactivate it using the codes that Skoda provides to re-enable it. Tool necessary to do the update is any OBDEleven or VCDS or any other tool that can do SVM (Software Version Management), but to re-enable Navigation ODIS-S is needed. ODIS-S is a dealer level software, so you have to rely on a dealer to apply the SWaP or to someone that has ODIS with a valid Geko Online account and the necessary hardware to connect to the car. Just go to the dealer after all the updates, you can bring the activation code or ask them to provide it, is in their ODIS Service Net and can be also obtained from Erwin Portal online. In the first TPI it's stated that the OCU (Online Connectivity Unit) has to be flashed first. Before doing that use any of the tool to go to the 0075 module (the OCU indeed) and in adaptation you need to change the Crash Signal to "via CAN". Once applied format an usb stick to fat32 or exfat and unpack the version 143 of the OCU update named 5WA035284OCU143.zip in that stick. Insert the usb stick in one of the usb-c port and long press the Menu button for 3-5 sec, reboot in Engineering mode to start the update following the TPI instruction. Once applied it will reboot and the infotainment will be working as usual. Using OBDEleven or VCDS or ODIS-S you will see that you have a fault error B201A, it's normal when doing an update via usb without dealership computer, it can be easily fixed by updating SVM using a xor tool that can be found here. It's nothing critical, you just have to tell the MIB3 that the software is new. Now you can proceed to do the actual MIB3 Update: format the usb stick unpack the first sequential package MOI3_EU_SKMQB_R23802P + P26810P + P27800P.7z in the root folder, go in the Service Menu and then press Update. The software will auto check the usb drive and since everythin is signed by Skoda it only applies if the file is the correct. It is almost an 1h job and it will reboot multiple times (5-6 at least), since it's not incremental everytime it has to delete the previous and reflash. After this you will land on SW version 278, MIB3 will work fine except that Navigation wont start. If you go in the Service Menu you will see that the Predictive Navigation FEC 00071C00 is not installed but it will be present in the available tab that was not present before. You can do a SVM fix again. Re-do everything, format the usb stick and unpack MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30600P_0306.zip, apply again in the Service Menu and wait for it, will probably need 20-25 min. On reboot, do the same with version MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30800P_0308.zip than you can find here a then again with MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P33000P_0330.zip that will bring you to the latest 0330 version that was released i think Jannuary 2024. Remember that after each upgrade you have to confirm the installation change. Once done you can finally check if everything is working except of the Navigation System. To fix this you have to enable FEC 00071C00, and as said it can be only done by adding your specific activation license code and unlock pin (that work only in your car and vin) and only using ODIS-S Online, so if you go to a dealership to activate it he surely can and already has your data to do so, else just bring the code with you and let them restore it. It can be found in the excel sheet in the mega folder, just search for your vin and you will find it. If you have the necessary tool to use ODIS-S yourself (like i did), connect to your car and perform a FFS (Function Activation), proceed with option 1, enter the 3 values when asked and apply them, it will ask you to login online using Geko (DSS Login) and let ODIS-S check with the servers if the codes entered are valid, after a 20sec wait or so it will be verified and unlocked. Now Navigation will start again! You can check in the Activated FEC and you will see that 00071C00 is enabled and valid. This is not a hack, it's not some sort of dark magic, is just exactly what the dealer does when they perform an update. Since they often wont do it (if aint broke dont fix it) or refuse because "risky" now you know that you can do it by yourself, files are publicly available if one know where to look and how to find them. And since the latest update is not cumulative you cannot apply the latest to a very old version they would charge you a lot of hours to do it.. well actually it is cumulative but it wont apply because security check will not pass so be patience and follow the TPI. Enjoy. R.

In my current and previous SKODAs the socket has always been live at all times. But my wife’s current Polo is only ON when ignition is on. You just have to know which is which and act accordingly.