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Ah. This is a subject very close to my heart. I had a similar experience 2-3 years ago. Hit what I thought was a pothole in the dark. Turned out when I doubled back and waited for daylight to arrive a very short time afterwards (after having swapped out the offending wheel for the spare), that it was a sunken manhole cover I'd hit. I parked up and took several pictures of the street location, GPS coordinates, road layout, offending manhole etc, plus the physical damage to 1 wrecked tyre, and mangled alloy wheel... I then tracked down the council responsible for that stretch of highway. Went on their Website and filled in an on-line vehicle damage claims form, detailing my incident and the indicated cost of repairs in the form of quotes. ( In my case 1 x knackered tyre, 1 x mangled Alloy, new wishbone, suspension alignment, and labour charges. What I received back from the council was a dismissive, (default) email quoting chapter & verse, the Highways act Section xyz and how they maintain their section of the public highway. I decided to dig my heels in out of principle and submitted a freedom of information request relating to when the offending manhole was last inspected AND for details of any other pothole claims made for that same manhole cover on that particular day.... Their 2nd response? Very different.. This time they pointed out that they would agree to pay my costs in this instance, but that this was in no way and admission of negligence on their part for the upkeep of the highway.... Now there's a thing... Sometimes perseverance and bloody mindedness does pay off. Just be prepared to dig your heels in. I hope this long, and maybe boring message helps someone else 😊

Pull the lever out towards you and you can squeeze it past the door speaker ,it will work 👍

Thats what deadlocking is, only the hard of thinking would deadlock a car with a child inside, its bad enough that some with a faulty door lock microswitch do it themselves. This is the way to do it, the lever will flex enough, I have used my wording in brackets but I'm sure the OP will have understood and was trying to do this anyway but did not want to risk breaking the handle. Editted, this hard of thinking person managed to deadlock themselves in their car in the B&Q car park believing (thankfully incorrectly) that the keys were still outside, the alarm was going off but I could not open any door or window.

12v jumper pack through the cigarette port?

I think the cost of charging from solar is a point of view type of argument. On the one hand if I put a solar kWh in my car I don't get paid 15p export, but on the other hand I save around 20p by not paying for it from the grid. Which view is right, am I saving 20p or losing 15p? I like to think I save 15p off the 20p (5p net cost) for every kWh that my car gets from solar. This is how I account for that solar energy on my car cost spreadsheet. I've kept track of every kWh I've put in the car, so I don't delude myself over what going EV has cost me. Its working out about even costs with previous diesel car including monthly finance payments - EV lower running costs offset by higher finance payments. Finally, just want to say that getting solar PV was not based on having an EV but on a desire to reduce my emissions and reduce my bills in retirement (a few years off yet). We have a plan to make our house as cheap to run as possible to help eek out the retirement funds.

So in summary unless I really need the power and speed that is the RS, the 1.4TSI/8AT is a better (safer) bet without losing much? Am I right?

Hi! Was searching solutions for other problems with this constantly broken car and saw ur post. Wanted to reply, as I had this problem couple of months ago. For me the problem occurred mainly when reversing and especially on rainy days. Just felt like the hand break was on and would not let go. The car was at the dealer for some time but finally they got a repair plan from the skoda factory. ABS/ESC unit had to be replaced... Cost for only the part was 2351€, labor 400€ in Finland. My warranty had ended just few months ago. Luckily Skoda paid 100% for the new ABS/ESC unit and 50% for labor costs. Sadly it took almost 6 months to get the problem fixed. Hope ur car has been fixed already. If not I hope this helps 👍🏼

What I've seen elsewhere is that you have to replace the strip - the Audi A4 has the same problem.

Had a ”Stage 1” remap this morning by a local company, in fact just a few streets away. Wasn’t put on a rolling road, but I specifically asked for a low torque remap, the quoted figures were 170HP and 390NM which of course I took with a pinch of salt. I brimmed the tank and took the car for a spirited test drive out to Nantwich. It goes so much better, I can’t believe the difference it has made, I will monitor the fuel economy for the next few tanks full of diesel and see if it’s improved. That’s if I can resist the urge to give it a punt here and there 🤣 bloody love the thing even more!

The thing with the 1.4tsi is that the nominal peak 250Nm of torque comes in from just above 1500 rpm to nearly 4000 rpm and the mk4 weighs about 1400kg so acceleration to 100kph is a reasonable 8.5 seconds. No ball of fire but 250 Nm is enough for me to overtake safely even when the vehicle is loaded. Sure the RS would be much quicker (under 7 seconds) but it would be wasted on me because I don't drive the 1.4tsi anywhere near its potential on public roads anyway. Most (Australian) reviews rate the 8 speed torque converter as being a better drive in traffic than a dsg. @SouthernComfort is getting pretty good consumption in his mk4 especially on a run which is not surprising as his mk4 has better aero than my mk3 and probably longer gearing in his auto than my early model manual. I can guarantee you would not get that sort of consumption in an RS, maybe 6 to 6.5L/100 on a highway and around 8 to 8.5L/100 in urban areas, which is still not bad although there would be great temptations to use a bit more welly with possible speeding fines 😞. All you can do is drive both cars and work out whether the RS is worth the NZ$10+k price difference for you. I'm not sure what the NZ warranty period is, it is 7 years here in AUS so yours would be at least 5 years, you would think that would cover any problems with the dq381 during your ownership?

My L&K Superb estate in Graphite Grey with grey interior has arrived. Slightly disappointed that even on the L&K trim the USB port in the rear-view mirror is an optional extra (that wasn't taken when the car was built), but I'm looking forward to getting out in it.

Exactly. As Dundee did. with EV,s. Free parking and charging at Council Car parks, and elsewhere. Those days are gone. Also happens to be seemingly Drug Death Capital of Europe. Maybe some of those with Money to Launder put money in Taxi Businesses and Night Clubs, Football Clubs and Karting Tracks, Care Homes etc. After all the Tyre & Exhaust Centres and Car Dealerships were where they had done it for decades. Scotland leads the way in Organised Crime & Drugs. Scotland wide that is. Maybe just Dundee learns fast then gets on with things.... Not that those at the top drive EV,s. , well not unless that are under a the Coat of Invisibility. Too easily tracked remotely. But then just move stuff about in the commercial Cars & Vans. Fast Food, Home Deliveries, Boiler Servicing etc. House to House deliveries. Local Authorities should lead the way. Government Agencies should be the first to be Greener.

ahh the old drug dealer approach . Get em hooked for free then kidney punch them with the real costs ;o)

If you have a Multimeter with an Amps range you could try and measure the drain current. With the bonnet open, the battery negative disconnected and the car all locked up, connect the Multimeter on the Amps range between the battery earth post and the disconnected lead (negative to battery post). This should give you a measure of the drain current. With that information, you would be better placed to find the cause of the drain. I am assuming that the AA man confirmed that the charging circuit is working as it should.

Skoda UK has announced revised Karoq specs Karoq The 2024 Karoq features three familiar trim grades: SE Drive, SE L and SportLine with all models benefiting from enhanced standard specifications. All models gain Lane Assist, Care Connect and Infotainment Online (3-year subscription), advanced driver attention and drowsiness monitor, power-operated child lock, Traffic Sign Recognition and Tow bar preparation. SE Drive models now feature a 10.25-inch Virtual Cockpit and Wireless smartphone charging, while SE L customers additionally benefit from 18-inch Procyon silver alloy wheels with anthracite aero inserts. Buyers choosing the range-topping SportLine model gain two tablet holders and ISOFIX on the front passenger seat. All models in the revised range also feature new rear badging that incorporates the brand’s latest corporate identity. While the choice of drivetrains remains the same with four petrol engines and one diesel available, the previous 1.0 TSI unit has been replaced by a newer engine from Škoda’s EVO2 generation. The new unit delivers improved efficiency, along with a 6PS increase in output to 116PS. As on 2023 models, customers can specify the 1.5 TSI 150PS engine with a six-speed manual or seven-speed DSG transmission. Both the 2.0 TDI 150PS diesel engine and the 2.0 TSI 190PS petrol engine are fitted with a seven-speed DSG and 4x4 as standard. Prices for the 2024MY Karoq start at £28,380 OTR for the 1.0 TSI SE Drive model. SE L variants start from £30,215 OTR while the flagship SportLine models start from £35,130 OTR. Design Selections In addition to the equipment boost, both models have been updated a new interior naming convention, first seen on the Enyaq all-electric SUV. Karoq customers will be able to choose from a range of four carefully curated options. Each offers a subtly different look with a range of materials designed to allow owners to perfectly tailor their car. SE Drive models are equipped with the Loft interior as standard, with the SE L coming with the Lounge interior. SE L customers can choose the Suite and Eco Suite interiors as an option. SportLine models feature a unique interior that includes sports seats. SportLine buyers can specify Lounge SportLine and Suite SportLine as an option, which switches sports seats for standard seats. Fabia customers in the entry-level SE Comfort trim have the Studio interior as standard which features a grey fabric interior. SE L comes with the Lodge interior while Colour Edition features Loft interior as standard that includes grey fabric with grey stitching and added metallic touches. The Monte Carlo comes with the specially designed Monte Carlo interior that has black fabric and artificial leather seats with red metallic design elements and carbon effect on the dash. The 2024 MY Fabia and 2024 MY Karoq are available to order now. A full database of images and other media assets relating to the full Škoda range can be found at www.skodamedia.com. https://skodamedia.com/en-gb/releases/1491

Indeed there's 2 elements to FIT payment: generation and export. But don't always assume what you read is 100% correct, because websites like those usually take shortcuts to describe a complex system. All people on FIT start off with deemed export because it predates smart meters, older non-smart meter cannot measure export. Deemed export means for each kWh generated, they deem 50% export regardless of how much is self-consumed. Meaning use as much as possible without consequence for people on FIT. For example, my statement for gloomy autumn/winter days. Effectively it's ~20p/kWh based on generation for me regardless of how much I use, since V2H install, I consistently self-consume over 95%. Then there's higher paying SEG (smart export guarantee). People on FIT can move the export part to SEG (one way) to get better rates such as 15p from Octopus, currently. FIT still pays generation part whereas newer installs only get paid SEG. But today's solar PV installs are much cheaper and generate more. So overall ROI is said to be similar. My neighbour also installed 10 panels, but got 4 kWp system (my is 2.9 kWp) installed for just £4000. Coming back to your view that there's associated cost, it's only true for newer installs as you rightly pointed out. But for FIT, it depends, usually it is completely free.

These cars were made through the very dodgy covid and semi conductor shortsges time. Imho it will never be problem free as the hardware doesn’t work as it should. I believe the endless promises of delaers will drive you to distraction. One chance to fix everything or reject.Go for a mk3 or a post 2021 model.

Hi chieflordy, Will certainly post any findings from Skoda but I am not booked in until late may. Ken2

England / Westminster keeps blocking things though as they are not sure that Scotland will not benefit and England not. The Wind Farm that is not going ahead with planning or SSE bidding for it for another year could have produced electricity for 4 million homes. Double what there are in Scotland. There is already 113% of Scotland's needs being produced. Deeside against Huge Pylons were out doing a convoy in tractors as a protest. The South can not expecting Scotland to house the Nuclear Deterrent that England will not have in their waters, and have the onshore wind they did not want, and have the pylons that might spoil views. Even those not for Independence know when the pith is been taken.

When I picked up my new L&K last year, the dealer branch manager mentioned that if I used the snow foam stuff to clean the car, it would tarnish the chrome strips as it is very caustic. Because this would be due to use of aggressive cleaning chemicals, it would not be covered by warranty. No problem for me because I never use that stuff. But even if that is the problem, it’s something that the dealer should sort out before you buy it, regardless of being a warranty issue or not.

IGNORE

Well mine is not. Long story mentioned many times before, my smart meter does not work (and DCC / Government stink.) I'm on the daily rate Tracker tariff as a courtesy from Octopus until smart meter coverage is fixed enabled in my area. Tracker has been averaging just below 20p/kWh If I ever get to the nirvana of a working smart meter the economics change in my favour. Until then the discussion is moot for me. I was giving my two penn'orth on the discussion as it stood.

carefully pull it outwards towards you as you pull it forwards? or Grab the outer of the cable and pull it towards the engine, the inner cable will remain with the handle? Or disconnect the whole mechanism from the side and pull it then? It is helpful to have someone pushing down slightly on the bonnet to take pressure off the other end.

I know it sounds simple but it's not possible. When car is remotely locked, it uses dead bolts and then it can't be opened from inside.. Asking these questions makes me think if I am stupid and missing something but it's Skoda who have messed this up in design when converting from LH drive to RH.

^^^ You obviously never followed my Corsa electric charging & now my Mini and times and capacities. Some people know the cost of every vehicles fuelling and trips and weather conditions, seasons and years. I know exactly how much energy i put in, the cost of every penny worth of energy. The cost of things and the value of them. & charging speeds. The reason being it is my money & i do the miles not calculate them and get it wrong like reviewers.

you haven't taken into account EV math. you know the one where the capacity reported isn't the real capacity and various corrections are made to "normalise" the reported figures ;o)

There always will be lemons. The main reason we bought a Skoda was the lack of posts related to issues with the car in Facebook groups. I only had a few issues (the famous TSi fuel rail screw thing got me), but nothing major. Compared to what we were used to the car is really reliable. I don't know much about diesels, but with proper maintenance they are said to be reliable too. But for reference, the 2.0 HDi is also said to be very reliable, yet we had all kinds of issues with ours. Suprisingly, the electronics worked will in that Citroen, as they worked well in the Fiat as well. I think to you need luck to some degree when buying a car, because you are not going to be able to foresee all mechanical failures.

I use 100 octane petrol and 5W30 oil. The air filter is replaced with every oil change at around every 10-13000 kilometers. I like to be sure with my oil changes to be honest. I understand that this might be too often but I'd like to be on the safe side (had a few lemons before that really loved oil so maybe that's why I'd like to take care of my car as best as possible). Thanks for the feedback! I did not know the difference between the gallons, I've used the converter on google. I understand that your evaluation might be the correct one but for some reason I remember the car having better fuel economy a year or two ago. Or maybe I am just overreacting because the ****ty cars we had before the Octy just broke down (An old Citroen C5 with the 2.0 HDi lost compression and a Fiat Stilo with the infamous 1.8 petrol excessively consuming oil after an enginge rebuild only to stop this habit when we sold it) after us using them for 70,000 kilometers and I am getting nervous out of habit Indeed I like the engine a lot, it can be quite economical while having more than enough power for me at least. Nevertheless, I am still curious if there are some more common issues leading to higher fuel consumption at higher speeds just to be sure I can check them and be happy with the car.

Realise it's been a while since the last post in this thread, but after having AA issues like this since I bought my car, I managed to resolve them at the weekend. I previously had all app and screen animations disabled on my phone (pixel 7), and I read a post by someone on another forum saying this caused them issues with AA. I switched the animations back on, and also removed any apps from the AA settings that I never use. I then had no issues whatsoever on a couple of long drives at the weekend - all AA apps loaded in properly and AA didn't lock up and become unresponsive once (something that was happening on every drive previously). This might be very specific to my phone & car, but thought I'd share the info incase it helps anyone else. 👍🏻

Yeah that looks like what Winston_wolf said. Someone has coded them like American cars, so you’ll need to get the coding changed

Ah remember that when you use your headlights you’ll see condensation by the DRL’s which is perfectly “normal”, but I guess the crack let in rain water which then trickled down to parts it shouldn’t and caused the issues

I had a car that squeaked and rustled around the dashboard and uttered plaintive cries when turning the steering wheel from lock to lock' especially as the weather got hotter. I found a small amount of silicone household polish applied with a squirt, or on a cloth, shut it all up, especially the steering column nylon bushes. Just be careful overspray can turn surfaces such as car mats extremely slick.

Ah, so you can feel that the handle is trying to do something AND the washer fluid is not spraying out of the rear spray head, sounds a lot like the washer fluid is leaking inside the rear hatch and that that has given the electric hatch release a problem - maybe. All will be revealed later!

It might be that your parking sensors are just stuck to the inner surface of the rear bumper cover using strong sticky pads - and that is what has failed. Audi, at least, used to have plastic welded mounting brackets for its factory fitted parking sensors to clip/snap into, when I retrofitted front parking sensor to my Audi, I just used some very strong "structural" Araldite as I didn't want/need to get that front bumper cover off again just for that sort of job. So, yes, unless you can reach up with thin strong hands and arms, to get the old sticky tape off and fit new stuff, I'd think that you will find that you have to remove the bumper cover. I'd think that in your local ambient temperatures, that substituting double sided sticky pads for a good strong adhesive could be a good idea - and check the other sensors while the bumper cover is off so that you will not need to get back under there again some time later. Having that sensor hole "open" will not cause any risk from water as the bumper cover is a sort of plastic and the parking sensor is sealed.

@Jackyy Welcome. Good that there was someone at the dealers that was not Blind. Usually they have never seen or heard of things. (Or they all do that.) What did this person say they were doing as far as dealing with Skoda in your country or CZ about this Fundamental Design, Manufacturing or Material Fault even though the Manufacturers Warranty has expired?

Email reply from the salesman: “the vRS is using a DQ381 transmission, service is every 60K generally unless otherwise stated by time. A DSG service is included in the price if you go for the 5-year service plan. If you go for the 3-year service plan, then you’ll have to cover the costs.” I note 60,000 km is about 40,000 miles; perhaps they have changed the servicing interval here to 40,000 miles? Are the megatronic faults related to service frequency? If one is to service DSG more frequently, will it reduce the risk of the reported faults?

@Winston_Woof @Graham Butcher He was comparing with a M5 and it's mpg. He was just a bit low on the guestimate of the electricity cost even if he had done 1,000 miles of home charging. & if he had Home Charged 1,000 miles worth on a 7 kW charger that would hae been about 50 hours charging. 3,500 miles with 30 mpg Super Unleaded 117 gallons. (4.546 litre to a gallon) 532 litres @ 151 pence. £833. He said 25-27 mpg, etc etc In a 520 D Estate i am getting 45-55 mpg. Diesel price a bit more than Unleaded or Super Unleaded. In a MINI Electric i am getting 3.1 - 3.6 miles a kWh and mostly Home Charging. But Public Charging it is cheaper in the Diesel. That is because i only get 100 miles of my cheap electricity when heading further and doing 300 - 450 miles. MFG Chargers is just 60 pence a kWh rather than 75 would be fantastic, but then maybe busier and then that is an issue. The 20% VAT that private users can not claim back makes quite a difference.

You can jump as big as you like on a Skoda or VW they have life long FeCs, Seat and Audi need navigation FeC surgery. No mac involved where you should run CleanMyDrive on the drive once on the external media ?. Only the use of Macs requires that. They put dross in the files which cause the signature check to fail so it would not see the update since it failed the integrity check. The zipped file has to be put in at the correct level. Some manage to get it one down so the system won't see it. There have been questions about Skoda zipping. Always best to use VW files they have better QA. You can be a devil and use the 370 release which will be June 2024. Boo boo found that. Works fine and newer cartography. You won't need that 64gb drive since it's only mib2 high. Doesn't contain the extras stuff for mib1. Just unzip and present the file. That's an Audi file so top notch. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/518018-columbus-map-update-2024-mib12-high/?do=findComment&comment=5829922 The VW manual attached which gives details on what the map file should look like on the media once unzipped for either case. Hit the relevant update that Skoda says to kick it off. Discover_Pro_November_2020_EN.pdf

Agree with getting the spare wheel kit. Fitted on recently in mine and was a doddle to install.

One key thing to remember. more properties in the Uk can get Solar than have dedicated parking where they can have home chargers installed.

Thanks.

The Style at home came with Bridgestone Turanza T006 and I find them quite poor. Poor feedback, feel quite numb and on damp roads give zero confidence. Edit. They'll be changed well ahead of time for Continental or Michelin..

Speed sensor on front left wheel. A lot of work and fuss but everything was fine afterwards.

You want to know more than 'Oil & Inspection' & Extended Scope @ 3 years. Like any Extras showing. Your DSG DQ200 is not due a Oil change at 40,000 or 80,000 miles. They dropped the Cam belt at 5 years / 50,000 miles from the UK Schedule. (last July)

Hi, I hope you are all keeping well and just to introduce myself. I have a Octavia 3 VRS TSi Combi, 2015 owned from new with about 90K miles. I do my own servicing and repairs where possible, the most recent job being a waterpump replacement. I'm based in Hampshire, UK.

Well, it's done. I was finally able to sort the problems and the car was approved at the inspection test!! So it avoided Scrappy Heaven and will be safe for now 😄. But I'll probably have to sell it, since I'm not sure what surprises await in the future. It's a shame, I was hoping to keep it "forever", but I guess I'll rather get something valuable for it now, than risking a more serious problem and then... get nothing for it.

I have just had a character building experience with my Polo 1.4 16V Auto with a petrol BKY engine, I know it is not a Skoda but is a close cousin and I’ve found this forum handy in the past. (So I write Seat / Skoda / VW in the text to enable a search to catch this). I am posting it as it may help someone else and to make it searchable so others may be helped. Situation is that it was being used and just would not start, not a specially cold day. It has done this twice before and mysteriously springs back into life. This time it took 2.5 weeks to get going this time. This is what happened. I know that to get an engine going you need : spark + fuel + cam timing + etc. 1. When I sprayed Easy Start down the throttle body it did not start. As Easy Start replaces the petrol this ruled out a fuel issue. 2. The cam timing was easily checked by pulling off the cam cover and observing the movement of the cams and their markings whilst a long screwdriver was being pushed up and down by poking it down a spark plug hole (which on this engine is vertically above and inline with the piston stroke). I used a spanner on the big cam wheel nut to turn the engine gently. 3. I pulled a coil out and put a spark plug in the end, then using a large crocodile clip grounded the thread of the spark plug. When I cranked the engine there was a yellow/orange spark. An internet evening told me that yellow/orange is a weak spark which can be quenched by fuel and a blue spark is required. So I’m loosing voltage somewhere. 4. I got 4 second hand coils. Put them in – no difference. 5. Cleaned all the earthing points that I could find, there are a few. – no difference. 6. I tested a coil on the engine as before – no spark at all. 7. I figured out the coil wiring on the car (which is not like I found on the internet) There are 4 wires. Starting at the square end of the connector a. Brown – Ground b. Brown / Yellow – Gound locally on the cam cover. c. Purple – Ignition permanent positive. d. Thin coloured wire – Pulse from the ECU to trigger the coil and hence the spark. 8. I tested a coil pack on the bench by connecting the first 3 wires to a battery, grounding the spark plug using the croc clip. When I dabbed the pulse wire onto the battery a nice blue spark. So at least one coil is good. 9. Then I changed all sorts thinking the ECU was not working or getting a signal from a sensor. 10. I had observed on VCDS that the crank speed was about 200 RPM using the crank sensor. 11. Finally the battery was charged for many hours and after cranking and then full throttle and cranking (which stops fuel injection and thus dries the engine a little) it spluttered into life and has not looked back. 12. CONCLUSION – THE BATTERY WAS LOW. It now cranks a lot quicker and starts easily. I hope that this helps someone as there are a lot of cranking and no start posts out there. RRegards, John

Hello everyone, I have an issue and I think it is related to this topic. Yesterday when I went home when the car on sun after some minutes of driving I got problems with informainment unit. It start randomly clikcing "clicking sound" something and restarting all the time. After restating my car everything was fine. Today after everything is working I got same issue again and car was not on sun at the time it was in garage on cold. I try to restart it with 10second power button any it the same. Even if car is closed unit is still turning on/off all the time after few restarts. Any ideas? I seen there is some users are from Slovenia if someone knows please contact me.

Further update. Previously we'd had an issue with a leaking adblue injector, which resulted in a large white buildup of crystallised adblue in the area. The injector was replaced, and all the visible residue removed - but it seems there was quite an unseen buildup inside the adjacent cambelt cover. I'm suspecting a chunk of this fell off at some point and caused the belt to jump. All cleaned now, new cambelt/water pump, fully serviced - and it's all back to how it should be

That’s a lot of words when all that was required was to simply replace the word ‘cancel’ with ‘settle’.