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Skoda Yeti leaking sunroof. My wifes’ 2016 Yeti 2016 L&K started leaking water into the drivers’ footwell. After much investigation I removed the trim and lifted the side of the roof lining so i could see under with a torch. I found two problems. Firstly the plastic adapter that fits under the drain channel hole was leaking slightly at the bottom where the rubber drain pipe fits up into it. A quick clean and waterproof mastic inside and out sorted that. Secondly, and by far the main leak, was the rubber seal at the centre front was failing and allowing water through it, into a 10mm gap between the car body and the sunroof tray that is supposed to be protected by the seal and down onto the roof lining, then down the drivers A pillar and into the footwell. I peeled up and lifted the seal just enough to expose the gap all the way across the front of the sunroof tray and partly down the side and filled that with the mastic too, smoothing it down and allowing it to dry a few hours before refitting the seal in place. This allows for any water ingress to go into the sunroof tray and into the drain channels as it should. Finally with the sunroof closed I used Gummy Phledge to treat the rubber sunroof seal all the way around a couple times. I will repeat this seal treatment each autumn too. That was 4 months ago and I can report no further water ingress. All in all a cheap fix that worked for me and that is doable with few tools and limited mechanical knowledge. Hope this helps.

Yeah, got it insured in my name, got an experienced driver living with me who's a named driver that knocked a grand off! It's honestly nowhere near as bad as I was expecting!

If the car was built in Sept 19 then the instrument cluster must have been changed - I guess, like anything, they can fail.

it is worded as "up to 10,000 miles" so i think it will be Kilowatts at the wltp

Arrived today :-) Also with fake E sign ;-)

Thats only option. Today i put anti glare foil to central display. Enough dust and fingerprints 😆 It should be done from factory. Why they dont look to laptops and pc monitors. All have non reflective coatings on displays.

I asked the admins earlier to move this thread to the mk2 forum.

Apparently there lawsuits across aus and USA at kia for putting out known oil starvation issues with their diesels

Try this. Download https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.50.zipMQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.50.zip Unzip folders to an usb formateado in fat 32 Put it in your car and wait for a moment.

Model years often start being made the year before. Two examples from the recent past are the 2016 Kia Sorento and the 2016 Mazda CX-9. While both vehicles wore the same model-year designation, the two mid-size crossover SUVs were released at very different times. In Kia's case, the Korean company began selling its new 2016 Sorento in January 2015. At the time, a Kia spokesperson explained: "Model-year designations may be assigned because of the vehicle's larger life-cycle plan." The spokesperson added that "marketing, fuel economy, and homologation reasons" are also at play in this decision, and regulatory requirements may change from model year to model year. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15345331/americas-next-top-model-year-or-why-new-car-model-years-arent-in-sync-with-the-calendar/ This happens all over not just the US

wonder is it the same failure points as the santa fes are having 🤷‍♂️ the dealer tech mentioned theyd had a couple of tuscons in as well...

I can see what you mean but yeah I quite like the boxyness of it... I also like the Kia Sorrento too. Maybe it's just me... 🤣

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All Season tyre option. Nice. Efficiency. Lovely. But then she should have mentioned the Ambient temp when she was getting 4.4 miles a kWh. And 200 miles from a 43 kWh USABLE CAPACITY battery would need to be getting 4.6 miles a kWh. (I read the battery is 53 kWh total capacity. & in Car Data, an estimated Total Capacity of 46 kWh)

Are you going to be taking lessons and your test in a manual car or an automatic and have an automatic only licence? 2 members here had Fabia vRS as driving school cars. 1 was green and not unusually required a replacement engine.

I've done it now, too. I've cut or reconnected all the P&P wiring harnesses on the vehicle without any connectors. And both LEDs in the exterior mirror are usable.

A few from this evening (and a closer look at the Mandarin ducks). I was a little too late to catch the sunset 😕 Had a go at long exposure (10 seconds with the camera balanced on the dashboard) - works best with Lorries!

Very nice choice, but please be sensible with it! For a new driver, that's a very powerful car and you don't want to end your driving career before it begins - any smash in the next few years will make insuring a pushbike impossible. Insurance will likely be eye-watering, but it's eye watering for most people these days. Admiral multicover is likely your best bet. To be honest, I'm surprised you've even got a quote, fair play! Take a look here - be great to have you.

Welcome. Have you managed to insure it in your name? I doubt even @DAN@ADRIAN FLUX when he comes along can help with a premium less than the car cost.

They could at the service checked the tyre pressures and adjusted them and maybe not reset the TPMS. ? Have you checked the tyre pressures you got the car back with and reset the TPMS? I would if it was my car. Do not trust others to do it right, or set the pressures that suits you.

Perfect weather today to fit this. Bought from Kopacek but like @yesman I had to cut back the 3 prongs on the back to fit as they were too long

sonax extreme + paint brush = insanely clean wheels.Ready for storage

Well well well... it was with a sense of wearing expectation that I saw the engine management light come on on Sunday. However rather than another injector going or the new one failing, it was the wiring of the fuel temperature sensor that had broken (and new sensor added anyway). This must have been playing up for a bit anyway, perhaps intermittently working, as the "throb" I mentioned last week and the general feeling things were around 97% sorted but not quite 100% (if you know your car, you know) has gone and it really is now back to ... well, not new, but pretty good for its age. ALL FINGERS CROSSED that's it now.

The politics will kick in before that with tariffs etc, it'll just mean higher forecourt prices, the established brands will put up their prices as well. I think for me cars will be the equivalent of a washing machine, I'll buy (probably lease) the cheapest thing that does the job. If they all look cheap and nasty why pay a premium? We'll inevitably get an electric but it'll be nothing special as I will no longer care. If it autodrives so much the better. I'll get a classic for the garage as something to enjoy.

Cylinder 3, I think Gaz. See full description under this vid: https://youtu.be/1ZyIgvil_9A?si=DKGeqbpjK8ZPBPVu I would certainly not replace unfailed ones, but I might acquire a spare to keep in the car, for potential roadside repairs.

Hi - are you still needing a response on this? Although they call what you are wanting to change the 'lower' arms' there are no front upper ones. Rear has upper and lower arms. From your description I would suggest you are referring to the front 'wishbone' as the control arm (interchangeable terms). This is all a slippery slope - you can either change what it necessary OR do a complete refresh. From experience once you start replacing one worn part with a new fresh firmer item it shows up all the rest of the old failing bits and likely speed up the ware on those old bits. I have recently done a full suspension overhaul on a 2010 Tiguan 4motion. Literally everything, all arms, anything rubber, springs, shocks, arb's, subframe collars, ... you are in for quite a lot of money but it will be really really good and you can get bits on from other VAG models too to improve things. Depends on what you want to achieve. I've gone for preventative maintenance along with making it less of a truck as we are keeping it at least another 5 years so will get the benfit from all the new goodies. I decided to do it all together as once you get close to lowering the front subframe there are several parts you can change OR will have to drop the subframe again for in maybe 6-24 months again with the associated labour costs and (ideally) another set of new subframe bolts if you adhere to the VW 'use once' philosophy of their bolts. Personally, I would get the alloy Passat wishbones and a Meyle HD rear console bush. The HD console bush doesnt have the large holes that rip - less ware and lasts longer. Alternatively there is, I believe the genuine S3 rear console bush which is also either solid or has less voids. For the wishbones, as the alloy ones are essentially fine buying used, get a used pair off of ebay and just get the front small bush replaced. I have done this before by drilling out the old bush and inserting a poly item from Problem Solving Bushings. That bush will never need replacing again. If you have an auto/dsg then the (UK) passenger side will be a problem and likely the subframe will need to be dropped a bit. I found once you start on the front chassis parts, if you really look in to it, its a very slippery slope ... because if you are dropping the subframe do you then replace the front ARB rubbers (integral to the ARB unfortunately and requires subframe removal ...) Also, ECS subframe collars will put your front subframe in correct alignment permanently, while your subframe is being lowered... Happy to detail more in a more detailed response below if needed ...

My mates tuscon sat for 9 months last year waiting on delivery of an oil pump and a blown turbo, he got shut as soon as it was repaired.

Blimey... That's bad... I quite like the look of them too but if that's reality it's pretty off-putting