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It is probably part of the procedure for removing the light switch. Certainly is on earlier models; push and twist, can't remember which direction.

In the UK it is actually against Construction and Use (or whatever the current legislation is called) for a car speedo to under-read. That is why they are set up like this. Also, the law specifically requires any speed 'evidence' to be provided from an approved and calibrated device. As far as I am aware, a GPS provides accurate sped, but as it is not properly calibrated there is unlikely to be any circumstances where they can be used as a defence.

You know what you already have is basically a good car so I would keep it. It needs a bit of work but most cars do at that age, if you change it will cost you the 1k+ anyway and there's no guarantee to say that what you buy next will not need at least the same or more spending on it within a short period of time. It may be a bit bigger than what you need but until the time comes when you have little to no option except to sell it keep it.

If that's the case, sell it based on the fact it no longer suits your needs. I wouldn't sell a car I had to spend 1K on. But I would sell one that was too big or too small. Buying another one will cost you more than the 1K, but at least it will suit size wise. It will probably cost a least that much to change to a similarly reliable car that will still need maintenance. Cars cost money.

Hi! Couldn't find a topic about inspection reminders reset without diagnostic interface, and earlier today I was sitting in one of the new MK4 Octavias. So, here's a tutorial about the instrument cluster hidden menu and how to use it to reset oil and inspection service reminders:

Took my 2025 Octavia vRS (Mk 4.5 facelift, 265hp) out for a Dragy run. Skoda officially claims 6.4 seconds for the 0–100 km/h sprint. My result? 6.16 seconds on a virtually flat road (-0.07% slope). That’s nearly a quarter-second faster than the factory says. Even more impressive was the distance—it only took 91.46 meters to hit triple digits. For a FWD car, that’s incredible efficiency. I’ve always heard that VAG (Volkswagen Auto Group) underrates their performance figures, but seeing it in person is wild. It’s basically putting down Golf GTI numbers despite being a much bigger "family" car. Has anyone else noticed their vRS punching way above its weight class? Why do you think Skoda is so conservative with their numbers?

Hi, I am looking at used Skoda Superb's so thought I'd join. If it all works out, then no doubt I'll be posting with new car neuroses in no time 🤣.

I a new user in the forum Owner of 2018 Skoda Superb 1.8 Mk3

Agree with the above. No desire to remap as I’d like to keep my 3 year warranty intact. Plus, not that interested in 0-60 launch control as 1) my GSD isn’t a fan and 2) I simply don’t feel the need. I’ve owned plenty of (very) fast cars, but there’s something nice about the VRS offering usable power for UK speed limits. My only ‘mods’ planned are mud flaps, roof rails and a dash cam. Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m off to read the paper in my slippers and lean into my inner retiree.

Yeah sounds like some 'baggage' with this engine. After my BMW adventures,I'm looking for something that is reasonably stable! I will keep reading up on it in case I discover it's a good iteration of the engine but will give it a pass for now.

Not while it's under warranty (5 years here) and then more likely just to buy another car. The prospect of some more torque and hp is attractive but the reality is there is only so much you can put through the front wheels and the car is quick anyway. How often do you run at full throttle? Me not very often and when I take the car for a backroads blast it's still mostly using the stout midrange through twisty turns rather than max throttle acceleration in a straight line. I've come from a 4WD car so still getting used to the wheel scrabble and the wait, wait ,wait to apply maximum power on corner exit. And just in case you think I'm some old plodder, I'm an ex motorcycle racer who still rides powerful street bikes and doesn't hang about in the turns but how quick something accelerates 0-60 doesn't really mean much to me as long as its brisk enough. The Octavia is case in point as although its slower 0-60 than the Superb its quicker once the wheels are turning (less driveline drag, less weight). There does seem to be a lad culture in the UK though that favours chipping everything innit.

Okay, it works. There was an issue with the Windows settings regarding Python’s permissions to write files.

The 1.5TSI cambelt replacement is a fair bit more complicated and expensive than the older 1.4 - but that will not be due until about 120K miles. I've always thought it a little odd that the 1.5TSI had exactly the same power output as the 1.4!

I think there may have also been issues with stretching cam chains on some EA888s - just done a little checking, the Gen2 engine was revised to Gen3 in 2011. I think if the 1.8 was a very good price, I'd take the risk - but it would have to be in really great condition and I'd want a good long test period before accepting.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, the issue with some EA888 engines wasn't due to lack of regular maintenance, I'm not certain, but 2012 would probably be a Gen2 engine. Some owners appear to have had no issues, but there can be serious issues with excess oil consumption from poor quality piston rings used during manufacture. Take a good read through the forum regarding EA888s - and check the V5 document of the 1.8 for any fairly short ownerships which might indicate a vehicle being quickly passed-on after discovering problems.

Replacing gearbox seals (Skoda Felicia) in english. https://www.skodabook.ru/en/remain/Felicia/transmission/gearbox/zamena-salnikov-korobki-peredach

What do you mean by overheating? Felicia has quite primitive fan switch and thermometer layout, so indicated temperature can raise quite a lot before the fan kicks in. 19 is to the radiator, 20 is return, 6 to the heater, 9 is return. 7 goes to the expansion tank.

I've had a look in the manual for my 2016 vRS and it looks like you have to remove the ISOFIX child seat mounting caps and then yank the seat base upwards at either side where the mounting wires are an interference fit in plastic mounting lugs in the body. The book says the plastic bits should be replaced each time but I guess it will depend on how many times the seat has been removed and any damage... Hope that helps. Chris.

Thanks, that's a comprehensive view indeed! At the moment, I'd just like to try and find an actual Felicia handbook, for simplicity and a quick n easy 'get to know' the car.

Hi buddy and welcome along to the forum 🙂

Thanks, The Felicia manual in that Skoda site is only in Czech - I am english, but based in the Czech Republic, and whilst I can get by regarding the language, my knowledge isn't sufficient to read through a Czech manual. I appreciate the link to the multitude of subjects in the Skoda book, but would really prefer an actual Skoda Felicia handbook.

Run your car normally till gets hot and the radiator spins,turn the heat to 4th scale and keep if for a while Sto and raise the hood while the engine is running at idle Wear gloves and take a cloth-towel,squeeze gently any coolant house you can reach especially the main,this will push the air bubbles to go to the top Cover the cap from the coolant expansion tank with the cloth-towel,unscrew it extremely softly,if a ''hisss" sound heard means you had air bubbles,continue and loosen one click more,maybe the ''hisss" sound will be heard again maybe not,one click more and the cap it's easily loosen till comes out By the way check the inside of the expansion tank for any detritus Turn of the heat to 0 and turn off the engine,screw the cap back but not with extremely force Return home and leave the car to cool off completely at night,next morning check the cap because one click tighten maybe needed (maybe not). You can check for leaks in a repair-shop,they have at least 2 ways to raise the pressure in the system and if there is a problem then coolant drops will show-up in the problematic spot.

I've no idea about how the heater matrix is plumbed in but if it is possible to bypass the heater matrix this will take it out of the checking the rest of the system and getting a false result because of any heater matrix issue at this time. On my 1973 MG Midget the heater tap (off the top of the cylinder head) went into the bottom connection of the heater matrix which made me think of the radiator to remember to put it on the bottom and not the top. With the block tester / sniffer test do bear in mind the possibility of false negative. For outlets if both are the same size you might need to look at internal routing or consider how the AEE cooling plumbing relates to what's in the Felicia pick-up and possible variations of cylinder head, thermostat housings, perhaps there might be some info in the 'Classic SKODA Projects' or other model Projects forums on here or if you know what model your AEE came out of diagrams from that if it uses the same thermostat housing.

With the change of Gear Oil this additive could help: Liqui Moly Gear Oil Additive MoS2 https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gear-oil-additive-p000009.html#tab-label-description-title

I'm keeping mine until it needs an expensive repair. It's pretty much 100% reliable, cheap to tax and insurance is not through the roof. The newer cars have more bells and whistles but this has all the basics I need and now I'm only doing about 5K a year it's hard to justify buying another car. The resale value is low, so I'd just sell or trade it in as a non runner.

What makes you think it needs a cambelt change?

The fuel system is no doubt precisely accurate as you say. But the odometer is not. Cars still rely on wheel sensors to compute distance travelled, just as they do to show speed. And the rolling circumference of a worn tyre with tread depth at the UK legal limit can be around 2% less than the rolling circumference of a new tyre. The car has no way of compensating for that error when calculating mpg. So it's accurate enough, indeed more than enough, but not as precisely accurate as you suggest. At 45 mpg, a 2% error is nearly 1 mpg. (And the same odometer error will also affect the human doing brim-to-brim sums.)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Baby-Boa-Strap-Wrench-Adjustable/dp/B00096JDJY Might help. Thanks. AG Falco

https://www.skodabook.ru/en/remain/Felicia Click in the categories on right column whatever you interested.

Hello again. I love my lady :D She saw that I was a little upset that I wouldn't lower the car. She surprised me and bought me H&R springs for the Fabia. The model is 29073-5, lowering the front -25 mm, the rear -45 mm. It will be paired with Bilstein B6 shock absorbers. I can't wait to see the final result, especially in spring when the car is fitted with its summer wheels. All the best to you in the New Year.

We have all been there. Not knowing what the best options are. Buying a replacement car will not necessarily mean trouble free motoring. Although a smaller car may be more sensible for your needs. Keeping your Octavia may be the cheapest option , also you know what needs doing now and the history of the past couple of years. personally I've tended to change every four years but these Octavia 's have been so good, I'm going to keep it for a long time. No matter what the costs are. so it's a really personal choice for you. All pros & cons.🤔. Good luck.

Logic suggests that a correlation error is not a fault with either sensor (which would have dedicated and specific fault codes) but a strong hint that the belt has not been fitted correctly, and the engine is mis-timed. Maybe the garage has used incorrect locking tools?

For anyone with the same issue. I just fixed mine. I replaced the temperature sensor on the Webasto (Skoda part number 5Q0 898 047, Webasto article number W9045211A). It’s really not that hard to do at home, although there are a few more difficult or tricky parts. One example is the crimped fuel line on the Webasto - at least for me, the main issue was that I didn’t have a suitable crimp on hand. Reinstalling the wheel liner also took quite some time. The original thread about this issue: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527570-aux-heater-false-overheating-fault/

Sorry I thought you were responding to the OP not the person you were. 🤪

The EA888 isn't a very sonorous engine in any spec but the Octavia RS sports exhaust is pretty good. It has a decent bass but noise regs mean nothing is that great anymore. The GTI won't be any better instead it has artificial sound piped into the cabin like the old Mark 4 Octavia. I prefer the natural sound. There are some pops in the engine map in Sport mode. As for size, it is built on a lengthened platform with a longer wheelbase. I find it fine but if you don't need the size then maybe a Cupra Leon hatch would be a better choice.

Hello everyone, I'm deciding on my next car. I wanted something sporty as my last car (more than 7 years ago) was a MK6 Golf GTI that I was absolutely in love with. We have had other cars at home (Karoq and a Seat Alhambra right now) as the family was growing but they were mainly driven by my wife. I'm deciding between a Golf GTI and the Octavia, the GTI is crazy expensive and at least in Spain it has a delivery time of 12 months which is crazy. So the alternative for me was the Octavia vRS but I have some questions that makes me not 100% sure: First is the exhaust. I loved my GTI sound. And I see current GTIs exhaust and I would love to have those pops and bangs. Is this happening in the Octavia 2025? Because from the videos in the thread (Thank you!) it seems that it only happens when in sport mode and in high revs. That the car sounds good in overall? sporty? The lenght, as it will be our second car at home I was more tending to a compact car like the golf as it will mainly be used to drive kids to school and to my work (pure Madrid driving and some highways... but I don't really need that huge trunk space tbh. Is 4,70m too much? do you find the car too big for the city? Thank in advance for your advice. seems I need to make the decision if going for the Skoda before end of the year as they will apply new price increase in Spain on it starting on the 1st of January.

Got a racing blue Estate with panorama roof and spare with 6 miles on the clock, 8 weeks ago. £10k off list!

It’s a 4.5 Merry Christmas…

Just info in case it happens to anyone else. My 9 month old Mark 4.5 Octavia RS wagon started flashing up a Damper Fault recently with each engine start along with the damper logo and warning triangle. The manual said off to the dealer so I sent it in yesterday and had a Scala 85kW loaner (very gutless and way too much turbo lag off the bottom end before it gets going) for the day. The issue turned out to be a speed sensor that had become detached from the system. Hopefully that is that and onwards we go. This is unfortunately the second warranty issue in 9 months (first was battery replacement). It is reinforcing the view that VAG vehicles really are something you only want with a warranty.

Hi Has anyone else noticed how slow the fuel gauge is to move off the 'full' bar? It seems to stay 'full' for ages, but then the move down seems reasonably linear. As an example, I filled the tank and drove 200 miles to Heathrow a few weeks ago. At the point of parking, the gauge was still at full! The car was showing an estimated and impressive 58mpg, but that's still about 16 litres used which is approx a third of a tank so I would have expected 2 bars to be unlit. After driving back a few days ago and pootling around, the gauge showed 1/4 full which was about right. Is this a common 'feature' for the car, or is it worth mentioning to the dealer so they can check the sensor?

hinge.stl I had to correct the hinge. because the tip was too loose

Hello I think this is the best design to be strong it has to be a left and right. you can use the original hinge (the tiangular shaped) you just have to cut the side plastic. hinge.stl toggle right.stl toggle left.stl

They told me it's not covered under my Skoda extended warranty. The extended warranty doesn't cover trim. I'll have to continue to leave it open. Shame it doesn't close as well as open with the boot. My Mercedes C class did. The only reason the Merc wins over the Superb.

Often forgotten or ignored If your HT leads are very old also consider replacing them as they're not expensive for a set - but don't buy inexpensive Chinese, or elsewhere, crap made ones.