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Hi from Sweden, an owner of Skoda Yeti TSI 125 2017 and I love my car.

Hello, Here are a few thoughts after 60,000 kilometres, for anyone thinking of buying an Octavia 4. I bought a second-hand car (Octavia 4 estate, TDI 150 hp (110 kW), DSG). It had almost all the features I was looking for. The car had clocked up almost 60,000 kilometres over four years when I bought it. It’s safe and economical to drive (3.7 l/100 at 110 km/h on the motorway and in low/medium mountain terrain, 4.2 at 120). I like the car for its practical features and its comfort. In short, the best car I’ve ever owned. I drive between 20,000 and 30,000 km a year. I did, however, experience a few niggles: - the infotainment system was completely buggy in 1810, until I applied the updates found on this forum; - airbag and oil sensors (fault codes cleared at the dealership); - DSG gearbox making a cracking noise when shifting to P in very hot weather (resolved with recall 37VQ); - battery died after 6 months (it was 4 years old); - A ‘POP’ sound near the wing mirror pillar, causing an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - A dried-up water droplet just in front of the front-facing camera. The dried residue sometimes triggers an error when the sun shines on it, blocking the adaptive cruise control: an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - the boot does not open automatically when activated with the key (a problem that is apparently well-known here). The front tyres (Michelin CC2) were replaced at 60,000 km; I plan to replace the rear ones at around 110–120,000 km. So, despite these minor issues, it’s a reliable model, and economical on fuel and tyres.

Then get yourself an up-to-date diagnostic tool.

I’ll ask them when I drop the car off. In any case, I want to keep this car running for as long as possible. It’s reliable and economical – I won’t find another one like it for quite some time.

France, and I have a diesel engine (TDI 150Hp). No PHEV.

Nope, i'm not in Australia, but in western Europe.

Mine is a TDI with DQ 381. The automatic gearbox fluid will be changed in the next few days, as it has reached 120,000 km. Isn’t it every 60,000 kilometres (37,300 mi) for PHEVs with the DQ400e?

Try the sparkplug socket if you have one. My Seally set doesn't have 18mm normal but has one for a sparkplug. Alasdair

The link provided by @BeaverRS has a menu option for Generation IV, the first few lines of which translate to ... "The Octavia IV (internal name NX) was first announced for the 125th anniversary of the Skoda brand on 05.02.2020." So, it seems that, in Škoda parlance, IV is Mk4 and iV is the PHEV variant.

iV is PHEV I think. In fact, the photo shows a hatch on the front left-hand side of the vehicle.

I’d asked for this reminder to be sent out during the last review. It was planned anyway, but they were surprised that I knew a recall was underway.

@OmerGarabagi What is the Ambient Temp or the actual air temp inside the car when using recirculation? getting 14*oC out of a vent seems pretty damn good to me.

If they are the same as the ones in our old Fabia estate then if I remember correctly they are held in place in the metal holder in the roof lining by a spring loaded tab and once you've levered them out a bit from the metal holdér you can just about access the tab with a thin screwdriver and push it towards the light to help release them as sometimes the tab gets stuck behind the metal holder. Also re bulbs try the flat one sided 'cob' bulbs rather than cylindrical ones... Auxito are a good make in my experience.

List of different recalls : https://www.octavia-rs.eu/rueckrufaktionen-feldmassnahmen/ 37VQ: Software update for the gear selector control unit: In ŠKODA Octavia vehicles produced during a specific period, there is a risk that the ‘P’ (Park) position of the automatic gearbox may not be active due to a faulty magnetic contact. (12 May 2025) Actually, it seems this recall doesn’t even relate to the problem I’d encountered with the P doing a loud noise after driving in temperatures above 35 degrees. But it sorted it out anyway.

Yep, got a similar deal myself (paid around the £90 mark anyway) My next piece of advice though would be to buy a battery charger. I recommend the CTEK MXS 5.0 although I've heard good things about the NOCO Genius 5 too If you're going to spend any amount of time messing around with OBD11, which you undoubtedly will as you familiarise yourself with it, then you'll need to be hooked up to a charger to prevent your battery from dropping out on you unexpectedly, which can in turn lead to more complicated errors as I'm sure you're aware

Not sure on the MK3 but my 2012 mk2 FL CAYC I think has an auxiliary water pump. From memory its electric. If it has failed or blown a fuse it may explain slight temp rise. The rad fan running after stopping car is on mine due to short runs and failed DPF regen. On mine the idle speed is around 950rpm when regen and drops to 750rpm once completed. If I do a short run and notice the increased idle speed I try to keep going for a longer one till revs drop to normal. If I cant the rad fan comes on after car switched off. Alasdair

To my surprise, having steeled myself to pay £119 for the device with a year's subscription, there was a code to get 30% off. I tried to order from the website and pay by card, at £90 and some pence including postage, but their website would not accept my full address, so I changed to PayPal, and paid £88.22 because postage was less that way!

Thank you @Alidocious for you kinfd post and welcome to the group of my happy customers

What does the temperature gauge indicate on a hard climb uphill?

Same on mine. Rear ride height was slightly off for ages. Only noticed when I broke a spring and discovered two different makes. One original and the other ??? If the yellow one is original it will probably be weaker. Alasdair

No, I don't think so. It is not during a DPF regeneration. The temperature can also rise by another one or two bars and then drop again. This happens even when there is no DPF regeneration. No, I don't think so. It is not during a DPF regeneration. The temperature can also rise by another one or two bars and then drop again. This happens even when there is no DPF regeneration.

Thank you Alasdair I’ve taken the wheels off again today and the n/s (which is the lower) has a yellow paint mark, the o/s has a tag with part number, so to me I think in the past the incorrect spring has been fitted. So think I’ll start with changing both springs (shows how observant I’ve been for the last 3 years 🤦🏻‍♂️) many thanks for all your help.

No, saying maybe go narrower and more sidewall. Maybe go All Season Tyres. What tyres are fitted? @Carlston is the fount of knowledge.

Welcome to the forum. Personally, I wouldn't be too concerned with those small increases in coolant temperature - 98deg.C is still a fair way off boiling temperature at pressure and the cooling system appears to be controlling the temperature increases correctly. Is the engine possibly doing a DPF regen when these temperature rises occur?

At that rate of use, I'd be getting just a little worried about having a runaway!

The reason I am considering a replacement is the oil consumption, its not horrendous on it compared to some but its more than I would like. So a low mileage engine seems an option, also considering just getting mine fully rebuilt, but it does all hinge on the head, if its cracked then the cost of a new head and rebuild would probably be too much, if the heads warped / not cracked then a rebuild is a very real option. Its becoming a "while im in there" sort of situation!

That may be the way to go depending on how much they want for the engine. You will probably need vcds to code it etc. You could always take the head off anyway off the old one first as it may be just the gasket. If its cracked either take head of other engine or as you said drop complete engine in. Depending on how many miles the car is done maybe factor in a clutch change at same time depending on condition and if its an internal slave do that as well. On a temp basis you could chuck a bottle of steelhead in and see if it improves. Alasdair

Those instructions appear to be for AC (air conditioning). The OP's issue is with ACC (adaptive cruise control)...

I have been doing some searching and have come across a replacement complete engine from a car with 47k on it, seriously considering it as an option, might be easier to just throw a new lump in it at this point.

Track rod end new tyre , alloy chipped , coilovers fine

Thats working out at roughly 1litre per 1000km/650miles!!. At that rate if you are burning it you would definitley have blue grey smoke and I doubt your DPF or CAT would be working anymore or about to fail. Check its not collecting on undertray or perhaps being dumped into intercooler and also make sure the correct oil is being used at service Alasdair

@BeaverRS Re the Recall or TPI /TSB or ''Service Action '37VQ' on a DQ381 DSG might interest many that might never of heard about this. Were you notified of a RECALL as the Registered Keeper, or did you find out when reporting an Issue. ie A Skoda Secret Service 'Recall Action'. Need to know and owners need not be told! EDIT PS. What country are you in?

It would be a start if one had a VCDS, whether clone or original, that is new enough and can correctly read all control units... then it would be advantageous to be able to read this scan correctly, because it clearly shows which bytes are incorrectly coded: Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_10_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_11_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_12_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_13_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_14_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_15_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_16_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_17_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_18_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_19_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_20_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_21_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_22_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_23_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_24_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_25_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_26_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_27_condition: ERROR

Fascinating watching the Grebes tending the nest. Think one chick had hatched and a couple of eggs remained in the nest? The parents actually swapped over sitting on the nest 1080084.mp4 The Tree leaves are clearly tastier than the grass! 1080097~2.mp4

Hello! Here you go.

Cheers Mario. Old man to the rescue. Debadged and I'm thinking actually of removing the SKODA on the back... Its currently Stage 1+, which is RL speak for intake and intercooler but no downpipe. They introduced it when the GPFs came in so people could...ahem...stay legal. DNF engines (EA888.4) have a bigger Continental turbo so remap-only supposedly goes to 390-400bhp; that's 70bhp for an S3 but 120bhp for the Superb (and a Passat has the same 280 version). I have the seen the Sleeper - kudos but they should have thought about offering it as a package like ABT on the Leon Cupra STR. I think they essentially did what APR are offering (but RL not yet on the EA888.4) which is a Stage 3 bigger turbo, but sacrificing top-end by keeping the standard downpipe with GPF. You can get comfortably over 500 by upgrading the turbo (Powermax 2 is the most common option) but the downpipe will end up being the weak link restricting flow despite the greater boost pressure. As for gearbox, I don't think 500NM is going to be the limit. TVS Stage 2 ECU remap states 560NM and if they don't advise doing anything about the gearbox then I think there's wiggle room. I've had the Racingline TCU though. Interesting point on the Dongle, might be worth a look - the Phirm also don't RR it but create custom maps out on the road as it is more indicative of the real-world car.

Bilstein B6 are for standard ride height. Bilstein B8 are for lowered ride height.

Hi, ive not sorted the issue. But im 99% sure the heater matrix is to blame. Looking at the diagram above, there is a secondary pump for the heaters, which turns on when you turn the blowers on. I suspect its holding pressure between the pump and non return valve, as the pump has no fluid to draw through, due to the blocked matrix. It then releases the pressure once the car has cooled down. At least thats how I understand it. There is a way around it, it seems when the air con is running, the heater pump will not run. At least ive only used air con for the past few weeks and lost zero coolant.

I do not like the fact that when set it automatically sets to the posted speed limit. I do not like the fact that when it sees a new limit sign, despite me setting it lower i resets to the signed limit. I do not like the fact that it sees limit signs on slip roads and tends to vigorously apply brakes. I do not like the poor comfort when it charges at bends, then jams on the brakes and still goes round at an uncomfortable speed.

Thank you for that. I am going to order the device with the Pro Pack.

We have just come back from nearly 4 weeks on the continent. Some may remember the SOS system issue that required 8 visits to dealers to fix. I'm happy to report that we went the entire holiday with no more issues. On our first day (Monday) travelling down the French Autoroute with the temperature at ~35 degrees, I noticed a small crack in the windscreen, just behind the parking ticket clip. It was ~ 2 inches (5cm) long. Over the next few days it grew longer until Friday, when it reached ~22 inches (55cm) This was a real dilemma for me as I didn't want to drive with a screen like that, but I didn't know how to get it repaired in Europe, particularly as I had no idea whether my car insurance would pay out, like it does in the UK. Luckily we got back with no further issue. I have a green Umwelt sticker for Germany, which I will lose when the screen is replaced, but I stayed somewhere in Germany near a TUV centre, and it only took 5 minutes and 5 € to get a replacement. I have also has to order a new French Crit'air sticker, which was just over 5 € including postage. So, on arrival home, it was time to sort out a replacement screen. On Thursday evening I went on the website of the replacement company. The first part was easy, putting in the car details and my personal details, but it was really difficult to complete the form as it kept asking me to agree to new wiper and a screen coating, both of which I had to turn down at least twice. The earliest appointment I could get was 16.00 on Tuesday, rather awkward but doable. No fit at home option. So was that it? No. On Friday morning I got a call from the company and then again got badgered by their agent, who very pushily tried to upsell me new wipers and screen coating, totalling ~ £90 to £100, and miraculously they could now take the car at 9.00 on the same day. So I couldn't book it for 9.00 online because I suspect the phone call is a further opportunity to upsell. I bet I get it again when I take the car in. Just one last thing for continental travellers. Apparently, next spring, Belgium will be introducing a road tax rather like ours, except it will also apply to foreign visitors. It seems there will be a daily rate, payable on the internet, but I have no futher deatils of costs and penalties.

According to a search, typical pressures for 134A A/C systems are - Static (A/C off) 4 to 6bar. Suction side (running @20deg.C) 1.7 to 3.1bar. Discharge side - 10 to 17bar.

I'd say from that pressure of 0.8bar, that the system has lost all its refrigerant.

Oh a certain domestic situation doesn’t allow for that! The one I’m looking at has a fast cat, GPF removal but an additional silencer box to keep sounds down. Not cheap though.

https://mib.plain.gg/files

Here's 'without' and 'with' photos. 👍 A simple matter of removing one plug (by sliding the red locking pins 'outwards' and then attaching both the PB connectors to re-make the circuit.

The plug ( item 2 ) can be seen here…

I have just purchased a 2018 Fabia Estate which has been fitted with 16" Skoda alloy wheels and 215/45/16 tyres by a previous owner. I find the ride a bit harsh and was considering fitting 215/60/16 tyres which are not so low profile. Has anyone fitted this size of tyres and maybe comment on them. I understand the standard fitment on this model was 185/60/15 but would I prefer not to swap to 15" wheels if possible due to the expense.

Thank you. I have a CTEK MXS 5.0. When I had my Jaguar XK it had to be connected 24/7. When not in use they are notorious for discharging their batteries due to all the electronics that never switch off.

I went down a big pothole and nearly wrote it off , and the dq200 recon box started to leak very slowly again, Had two more repairs, so ive just bought brand new dq200 for £2.6k from skoda preston, will try see if the other one can be fixed, so at least two years warranty on new one.. cars had a tough life.. but still going..