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Bit of a moment of joy for me too. I can't get on with an astronomical telescope, just can't, dunno why. But I recently bought an SVBony SV28A spotting scope, with a digital eyepiece. Tonight was my first attempt to use it, and this is through a triple glazed window, with street lights outside. Here's the Moon: And a vain attempt at 2x on my iPhone: And here's what it looks like through the spotting scope: In wayyy off ideal conditions, but for a first attempt I'm absolutely chuffed. So excited that the scope was picking up my heartbeat through the bedroom floor 🙄😂 Gonna give it a proper go soon, now I know how it all works. Gaz

Hey everyone, joining from Ireland. I own a 2004 Octavia Ambiente SE, 1.9 TDI, 5 speed manual. Happy to say that it's my first car and that I passed my driving test in it a few months back. Looking forward to learning more about Skoda.

They’re the same changes I did. Had them both for nearly a year and performed perfectly. Well worth it. I also added a MagSafe charging pad. Ideal for short journeys but tends to get a bit warm on longer ones.

Yes, Cairus, you were right, it was the missing fuse causing the problems. Really not sure if it was the mechanic's mistake or if it was me fiddling with fuses while trying to fix a non-functioning rear camera. Thanks so much for your help, much appreciated.

No & no. All fitted over Xmas 2024 so they have been in use for two winters so far. I live in the sticks so they get a lot of use. On the Panda you can't see the bulbs from the front. The last tester I had ( this year ) is very strict on MOT's ( they have a fail rate of 60%, average is less than 30% ). Because he can't see them he can't fail them. He didn't have any suspicion that they were LED's though. ( I asked after the MOT was done. ) No problems with the MOT last year with a different tester. On the Skoda Citigo, had no problems on the last two MOT's when they were fitted to the car. The garage that fitted the bulbs also did the MOT's. On the VW UP, not due its first MOT until next month. This car can be ordered with LED headlights from factory. Not planning to change them over but the halogens live in the boot if needed. The swap over is easy. There are some before/after photos of the beam pattern on the Amazon review section for these bulbs. Thanks. AG Falco

Thanks, I've tried pushing the connectors firmly together in the mountings on the bulkhead firewall, I'll see how that goes.

& often in Scotland 50 kW max chargers might give only 26kW and be at Local Council provided chargers with a max 40 minutes allowed or 60 minutes max chearging time.

This happens and worse ie only get 26 KWs, or getting nothing at all as I did twice on last BH weekend, presumably as there is not enough power to supply the chargers. Southwaite services, between Penrith and Carlisle, so likely somebody is on a large trip up to Glasgow area or beyond. 26 KW is worst than my air cooled battery packed Zoe got, you may as well book yourself in the hotel at this slow rate ....... Place needs Megapacks or a better Grid connection or both.......

Reckon get it scanned for codes. sounds like either an under or overboost turbo problem. My old octavia did similar due to actuator sticking but without a scan on yours its guess work. Mine used to go into limp mode but no eml. Car drove ok but definite lack of power. Alasdair

Is the recommended spec for that TDI from that year not VW 508 00 / 509 00,. so 0w 20 FS IV but actually 0w 30 FS III, which is as they were before that year. VW 504 00 / 507 00, but just not as it was & 5w 30 FSIII

Hi Neil, I sent it to the garage to be checked out, they regassed it and it sorted the problem out. They said that because it was low the evaporator was icing up.

Daughter used Gtechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer on her old peugeot 205gti and it cured the faded plastic trim. been on for about a year and still looks good. Alasdair

They do not take any responsibility for plastic compoments i have had my fair share of converstations with them.

Thanks Warrior193, that's exactly what the code reader says; can you point me in the right direction to check the connection? It's a bit of a bird's nest under the plastic cover and there is a bit of damage to the metallised fabric heat shield that's now held in place by tie-wraps because the pop fasteners have torn out of the fabric..... **No, only the faulty one was changed (£154 +VAT) so they didn't bother with the second one which appeared at the time to be OK, because of the price. The question still remains - is there an easy way to see if the ECU has been modified to allow extra "poke"? **Edit to add: Just checked the service invoices and the first EGT sensor was changed in July last year.

Hi , just checked mine it is on Software version 0519

I've not been offered any new updates since my last post so fingers crossed it is finished now

The only car to appear in 3 sections as well.

My mate told me today that his April 2019 VW R-Roc 1.5 150PS DADA's DSG - which will be the DQ 200 (dry clutch), at roughly 67,000 miles, handed out its first trans fault warning this week, his DIL who tends to use it most of the time, lost all drive, pulled into the side of the road, cycled the ignition and that sorted that out - for now. It has been taken out of use until it can get looked at. From what he told his VW Group Indie workshop, they are speculating that it will be a case of mecha unit out and sent away for repair - and they said "don't drive it now". Would oil and fluid changes have avoided this, who knows, probably just another accumulator casing failure! Cars of that age were meant to have benefitted from a slightly increased accumulator wall thickness, so maybe so other failure.

The advantage of this would be that, for instance, you could virtually mount the user partition in Linux and extract the `system.ifs` file from it. This means you could theoretically patch the system directly; no discrepancy would be detected, and the system would boot up and function perfectly. I hope the explanation is detailed enough now. Perhaps this is of interest: @travs @JR RS @Binx1310 @Bap33 abd Others

F28 is heating Windshield if you have. When Not, this is the Error

Might be a wiring/connector issue to the throttle body. It may be that when new the pins make decent contact but if plug on wiring loom end is loose/coroded/worn pins over time may be breaking contact and causing problem. The p242c is either the EGT sensor iss failing or perhaps broken wires. Alasdair

If it got worse wen turning it may well be a bearing or perhaps a inner/outer cv joint? Perhaps a second opinion as you said. Alasdair

It is a Tiptronic then. I assume a 1.6 petrol.

Well, there are two options: 1) You do it the safe way. Have it installed at the dealership, submit an inquiry, wait, hope for approval, learn how to do it, remove it, and adjust the mileage. 2) You learn as a child never to listen to your parents or anyone else, so you do it yourself and stubbornly insist on your own way, which usually ends badly. (Applying the Seat dump to Skoda is a bad idea.) I opted for the second option and made things complicated for myself. Long story short, I ran into a TPI situation, meaning the control unit is fully diagnostic-capable, but the display remains dark. This often affects 2019 model years, specifically the first generation XXX920790 without an index or with index A Virtual Cockpit Generation. So, Immobilizer Generation 5A. If the software glitched, it can be fixed by flashing the complete firmware. If the software has glitched, it can be fixed by flashing the entire firmware. Long story short, I ran into a TPI issue. Then I remembered I bought a defective Kodiaq Virtual Cockpit last year with the same problem... Okay, Virtual Cockpit can only be flashed with an unlocked immobilizer... Great, I have two Virtual Cockpits, both with different VINs, of course, and I need an unlocked immobilizer... What do you do? Right, screw it, get down in the car, remove my own Virtual Cockpit, make a data dump (praying the rosary that the thing stays intact), and flash the dump to both Skoda Virtual Cockpits... What can I say, it worked perfectly. The immobilizer, CP, key, etc., were all transferred correctly. Back in the car, connected the defective "Virtual Cockpits," didn't give a damn, turned on the ignition, and started it (note: if a different VIN is detected, the ABS coding is automatically set to 0, and all basic settings of the ABS block are lost). The car started right up, the coolant temperature and fuel gauges worked immediately, the turn signals worked, etc. That means the immobilizer was completely transferred. What can I say? It worked perfectly. That means expecting a long flash this weekend.

Hi! Ever since I picked up my new Kodiaq MK2 from the dealer (October 2024) I've had a rattling sound from what i first thought was from the passenger dashboard but which I now think I have located to the front passenger door. I've recorded a video of the sound which i've attached below (a bit of road noise in the background but you can hear the rattling quite clearly) Is this sound similair to the sound you have experienced? For me it sounds like something is loose. The sound is not constant during the drive, but it comes and goes pretty much every ride. It drives me crazy and I have to cancel the sound through high volume music. I've tried to get my local dealer to have a look at it but no success so far.

What's illegal about this, exactly? If you retrofit a dash cluster into a car, you'll need to adjust the mileage. By the looks of it, that's exactly what he's doing. FYI, if you want to roll back the mileage of a car, you'll need to be a lot more thorough - the ECU and TCU keep their own logs.

Hi, Buying a new 27 plate Skoda Karoq 1.5 with DSG gearbox. Interested to know what mileage you have on your Karoq with the 1.5 DSG and any issues you have encountered. Online searches seem to imply they blow up at 30k or go on for ever. Interested in real world driving. I do a 50/50 mix of country urban and motorway. Thank you.

World of EV trucks moving fast and might partly save us from diesel shortage on harming the moving of goods in Europe. Also article giving data just how much quicker Electric Trucks are than diesel trucks. We have BYD EV trucks being introduced to Europe shorlty, and they will build the megawatt plus charging network, Mercedes, Tesla and my old firm Ceva buying the Windrose D700 which have interesting stats. 0 to 60 in 12.5 seconds and 24 seconds when loaded. A diesel HGV would typically take twice as long. More importantly the loss of momentum up inclines is far less in the electric truck to the wiesel. "Gradients show the same advantage, with the Semi holding 65 mph on a 3% incline where a diesel typically drops to around 50. The practical value is less about straight-line speed than about traffic. A truck that can merge onto a motorway at pace, clear an intersection quickly and maintain speed uphill removes friction from every journey and reduces the situations where a heavy vehicle becomes an obstruction to everyone around it." https://www.facebook.com/teslainsiderfb/posts/tesla-has-given-top-gear-acceleration-figures-for-the-production-semi-and-the-nu/122170847468664960/

@rum4mo I think I am correct in saying that the dry clutch mechatronic unit and main gearbox have their own separate dedicated oil systems. The wet clutch DSG has a single oil system that lubricates the gears, acts as an oil bath for the clutches and also provides the fluid for the mechatronic unit. With regard to creeping in traffic - with both wet and dry clutch DSG boxes when the engine is on tickover and the car is moving clutches are fully engaged so they are not slipping but the clutches can overheat with continual slipping. I would suggest that in queuing traffic a slow continuous creep on tickover is better for the DSG clutches than repeatably stopping and pulling away from stationary - the 7 speed DSG boxes tend to try and start off in 2nd which slips the clutch more than starting in 1st. We have a dry clutch Fabia and wet clutch Karoq, and I creep in traffic rather than stop/start all the time whenever possible, if I do have stop I leave quite a big gap to vehicle in front so I can start creeping sooner and not have to use throttle, I dogged same in the manual vehicles I drive.

From what I have read not creeping in traffic prevents the dry clutch over heating. There's conflicting evidence but changing the mechatronic oil every 40k is suggested to prevent failure although for newer models there is no official oil change required. Interested to hear from mechanics on that one. Again like my Mondeos you'll find stories of people stating to change the cambelt at 50k for the diesel. I changed mine at the manufacturers recommendation of 125k without any problems.