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Looks like we've come to the end (I hope) The original garage that was looking into this gave up and recommended me somewhere else who they said were better equipped so I took it to them. Gave them all the information I had. Intake air temp reading either -40/-60/100+ degrees and that after swapping the sensors out, they'd roughly last three days or so. I also swapped the battery out myself before taking it to the new garage as a last ditch attempt to fix it myself and save my bank account. It didn't fix the issue but it did fix the auto stop/start which was temperamental at best prior. Turns out the battery that was in the car originally was for a VW transporter. Anyway, to the meat, this new garage found that the main engine wiring harness that connects to the alternator and starter motor had been rubbing on the wiring loom that contained the 5v reference wire that goes to the sensors. Over time the insulation from both wires rubbed away leaving 12v wiring exposed and several of the wires in the loom also exposed. So occasionally the 12v would contact the 5v and fry the sensors. Which would explain why there was no rhyme or reason to when the sensors would die. It was just a case of when the 12v contacts the 5v. They asked if the car had ever had a new clutch or starter motor as they were confused as to why these cables were in contact with one another but I didn't have the answer as I've only had the car for so long and certainly not had any major work done on it. In any case they swapped the wiring harness, re-ran it to no longer rub on the wiring loom, re-insulated the exposed wires in the loom and put in a couple of new sensors for me and charged me £800 for the pleasure. I guess that's the price you pay for a more professional outfit. What a saga it's been, I think if the car gives me any more trouble I'll drive it into a lake. Thank you all for your ideas and assistance with this, I do appreciate it.

CBZB doesn't have variable valve timing, if that's what you mean by VVT. Garage need to check timing correlation with correct locking tools. You probably can see fault codes in engine ECU if cam timing is far enough wrong relative to crank. Whereabouts are you? What year is the car?

Hi everyone - it's my first time posting here. I need help figuring out how to fix an ad blue leak on my Superb MK3 2.0 TDI 2015 130,000 miles. Its coming from the engine bay end of the piping, i think from the plastic right angled housing. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to fixing things but this seemed like an "easy" job, haha never, I use AI to help my source parts for a fix but it has failed me and i need some advice for a proper fix without having to go to a garage. Progress so far: I've removed the crystalysation by pouring hot water over it all, then went for a drive to burn off the water (a small amount of crystalysation came back so i poured some more water, at least it confirmed where the leak is coming from) I have been looking at some facebook posts and youtube videos of what other people have done but they're not detailed enough to give me confidence to start the repair myself. They provide part numbers such as SMC KQ2L06-99 & SMC KQ2H04-H06 but then AI is contradicting saying the injector nozzle is 6.3mm OD but the parts are 6mm OD, so they're not compatible. I also looked at a video saying all they needed to do was glue the ad blue tube back into the plastic housing, but mine is firmly stuck in there, so my issue must be the O-ring in the right angled bit. AI suggested I use a "popular" method to repair and buy SMC KQ2L0600A and a 6mm OD Nylon Pneumatic Air Hose Tube. however when it arrived I thought well how am I going to connect this all together, the Ad Blue pipe is easy enough, just use a wire cutter to seperate the pipe from the old right angle and plug into one side of the SMC part. What about the injector nozzle though? the 6mm OD nylon tube is too small, AI suggested is put it in boiling water to stretch it over the nozzle but i just cant see it working, i tried with a small bit of nylon but it doesn't really stretch enough. This is where I become frustrated with AI and now i'm thinking I could buy Nylon tube with an inner Diameter of 6mm but then the OD wouldnt fit into the 6mm female port on the SCM part. I really need some advice for parts and a rough guide on what to do with them.

Getting worse in France reported and now up to 15% of pumps out.....

They're just reflectors. The LED light strips at the top of the doors light up red when the doors are open.

could be a worn cv joint/drive shaft thats clunking. Mine sounds similar and reckon theres play in joint/shaft so under aceleration you dont notice as its under pressure but if you slow down and accelerate again it clunks slightly. I assume the clunking is the slack being taken up. Doesnt do it full left/right but generally in a straight line. Alasdair

There not a ton of content about repairing the tube, replacing it yes but a solid repair, no. I'll keep updating the post with what I do as it may help people with the same issue. I have ordered 2 more Pneumatic fittings: SMC KQ2L06-99A - although the opening is 6mm i've seen on a passat forum someone was able to get the injector nozzle firmly inserted. SMC KQ2H04-06A - This acts as the bridge from 6mm-4mm so that the ad blue cable can connect at the other end. I can't be 100% if this will work as the passats nozzle could be a different size, but the forum says this worked very easily. We'll see Parts cost £20 with delivery total spend so far £40.

INEOS / Sir Jim Ratcliffe / PetroChina closed Grangemouth for Refining and now closing down elsewhere because of the cost of gas. Not that the UK Government really gives a monkeys.

little AI but you will get a point This engine features what is known as a "floating" camshaft sprocket. This means the sprocket does not have a keyway, dowel pin, or slot to lock it into a fixed position on the shaft. As long as the center bolt is loose, the sprocket can rotate freely 360 degrees around the camshaft. The factory procedure for setting the engine to TDC (timing alignment) looks exactly like this: Locking the engine: The crankshaft is set to Top Dead Center (TDC) and locked using a special timing pin screwed into the engine block. The camshaft is locked from the rear end (near the vacuum pump) using a specialized flat alignment plate tool to keep it perfectly horizontal. Installing the chain with loose bolts: The new chain and guides are mounted onto the engine. At this point, the center bolt of the camshaft sprocket must be loose. This allows the sprocket to rotate independently and adapt to the teeth of the chain as it's being installed, without moving the actual camshaft, which remains firmly locked by the tool. Activating the tensioner: The pin is pulled from the new hydraulic chain tensioner so it can extend and fully tension the chain. Only when the tensioner takes up all the slack does everything sit in its ideal position. Torquing down at true zero: While both the crankshaft and camshaft are still 100% locked in place, and the chain is fully tensioned, the mechanic must use a counter-hold tool on the sprocket and torque the new camshaft center bolt to the exact factory specification (torque plus angle). Where did the mechanic most likely make a mistake? If the mechanic did not loosen the sprocket bolt when installing the new chain, or if they torqued the bolt down without using a proper counter-hold tool (relying solely on the locking tools inside the engine block/head to resist the tightening force), the locking tools flexed or bent slightly under the heavy pressure. At the exact moment the bolt was torqued, the sprocket "pulled" the camshaft a degree or two out of alignment. The result is exactly what you are experiencing—an engine that seems to run, but suffers from "incorrect timing" under load because the ECU detects a mismatch between the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor.

That shows the total lack of joined thinking and strategic planning. We stop refining North Sea crude for our own consumption but then import it from Netherlands etc.

It's just greenwashing.

Welcome. Maybe some help in the threads already on Briskoda.

Seems likely, given recent work, yes. Please check for typos in the timing kit number you wrote, google struggling...

I have set of 18" wheels for the winter. When they get swapped next month, I'll have the chance to get at the barrels and backs of the Veritates properly. So, fallout decontamination, tar spot removal, and thorough clean. They're already pencilled in with my local bodywork specialist to get ceramic coated after that, which should hopefully make them easier to keep clean going forwards.

It could do, might do, perhaps will do. But everyone does not all of a sudden have money to sell a vehicle & it needs people looking to buy what they are selling, and people do not all of a sudden have Home or Work place charging to make Buying / Leasing an EV the good choice financially.

You do not mention what engine the car has. Did you ever use that fuel that you asked about in other threads, from the petrol / diesel misfueling.?

Was it soot or ash content or both that was 20% Soot gets burned off during regen but ash builds up over time. Next time it happens I would take it out for a decent long run and see how long it takes for it to regen again. With mine its random. Recently after decent run it took over a two weeks to start regen again but if I do short trips it starts regen about every few days until another long run. Check the dpf sensor isnt melted. Read a few reports that on ea288 engines the sensor is prone to heat and can melt/be damaged. Alasdair

We hung around and were fortunate to see a Spitfire, Hurricane and Dakota 1470330~2.mp4

Angle tightening is essential for fasteners that are taken into the plastic region, but far more often it is simply a far more accurate way of tensioning a(ny) bolt compared to torque alone. The impact and variability of friction when tightening only by torque creates wide uncertainty in the achieved pre-tension. Angle tightening is independent of friction because the bolt extension is directly related to thread pitch and the angle used. Smaller torque plus angle gives a far more predictable outcome. So it's just a better way of tightening important fasteners, not a guarantee that the bolt in question is permanently lengthened in each usage.

Theyre back from having a cuppa 👍 And a chute deployed

Yep ! Pain in the derrière doesn’t come close. I console myself with the thought that 99.9% of the population will just go ‘ooh, nice clean car ‘ It’s only the saddo’s like us that know ( or notice ) Don’t worry too much, if you’re anything like me, the sleepless nights spent festering over the gunge filled trough behind your wheels will ease after the first six months of ownership.

Pretty colourful skies yesterday..... And tonight's moonlight.............

First service, 30000 kms 12 months, oil and all filters , 340 €....2.0 l tdi 4x4, Greece, official service network

I think @MarioVrs has an issue with the fact that the wrong parts have been delivered and now questioning that. The thing I find is that they give you every part under the sun - even when you've selected a vehicle and that should filter out what you want: my example was the Superb 280 is 340mm front discs and 310mm rears. All other Superbs (4x4 and FWD) are 312mm front and 300mm rear. Despite the autodoc website knowing I have my car selected, they would list all of the size options. Fine if you know what to look for, but for a layman who wants to buy rear discs and doesn't spot the difference then that's where the issues arise. That isn't necessarily an Autodoc thing solely - all sellers seem to not be able to differentiate between the 3 different versions of the EA888 engine in the 280 from pre to post FL. But I think this thread is that Autodoc's customer service and ease of return more than offsets any saving over popping down to the local GSF etc.

Autodoc have many different businesses online (looking like UK based firms) but the same problems can arise. Look carefully at the delivery times and ask Ai where the business is based if in doubt. I always find out first the correct VW or Skoda part number and make sure I know exactly what the part looks like. This last bit can rule out mistakes which the sellers often make in their listings.

It is Maxton Design V2, bought it from Kopacek. Adds a lot to the look of front, love it. Also since last update I've added Rieger rear diffuser and Maxton sideskirts. Exterior is now complete for my liking. Yes it is L&K and maybe you should not do that, but I don't care, I do whatever I want 😁

My DCC was tragic at best from factory. As poor a suspension as I’ve ever had In any car I’ve ever driven. Replaced with bilstein, same as others on this site have done, and it completely transformed the car. mine would crash and bang over the slightest bump in the road. Even after being replaced under warranty, the new shocks still had the same characteristics. Small bumps had the impact of a head on collision and felt for sure like the wheel was definitely damaged. on several occasions small bumps that my wife’s focus ST drove over with no noticeable concern, actually hit one that hard the glovebox banged open. The same roads now with the bilsteins are a breeze and the crashing and banging is completely cured. OEM shocks on mine were monroe, if you want to check and see what’s fitted to yours.