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So having got it covered on trade plates as it needed to go to be weight tested, I set off on Friday to get fuel, weigh it and then take it back to the unit (which involved going past the house). Stripped out in the back, it was 7.8 tonnes. Put £50 of diesel in just to make sure it had enough, which was fun as had to drive through the ASDA car park to get to their fuel station. To say we got noticed driving through a supermarket car park at 3pm on a Friday would be an understatement! As I was driving back past the house I stopped off for a photo with the Wife's Yeti... It drives well, considering what it is. Actually easy to maneuver at speed and follow the curves of the road. Gave it a full check over before we set off, did around 14 miles and it was fine. I can see why the tank driver's helmets have ear defenders built in though, with the tracks rotating and the diesel engine humming away 50cm away it does get a bit noisy!

Is that the cars queueing outside the paintshop waiting for the space so the coloured paint can be applied?

I found a second hand one with the exact same part No on eBay for £30. Halfords do a test on the system to make sure there are no leaks, then vacuum it for £30. Than if everything tests fine they re-gass/ add the correct amount of lube for a further £30. So all-in cost me £90 plus my time/ spannering, which I thought was a result.

Speedo fixed - the connector on one of the wires had come apart. Have squished it a bit with the crimp tool for a tighter fit and wrapped a load of electrical tape around it as a further temporary fix. I will do it properly with a decent connector! Can't resist sharing these Facebook memories. Three years ago Just Rust were getting stuck into welding up and repairing the holes in Rusty's bodywork.

^^^Had me in stitches^^^ I'll get my coat...

Not all e-brakes need a human to operate them. I have not touched mine for over a year / 15,000 miles to apply or release the parking brake. Once you have once selected what setting you want, same with Autohold you need not touch it again with lots of VW Group vehicles. Doh, sorry not cleaned it either!

Hi both - seen this now. Drop me PM as mentioned Ken, and we'll try to sort something out.

IF it was for a 1.5 petrol she could knitting JUMPERS! For pulling away!

agreed, all should deal with it accordingly, but having been on both sides of the fence, I am an ex Brand Manager for a Skoda franchise and now a private owner, there are a hell of a lot of chancers, opportunists around and the culture in this country is at the "Where there is blame, there is a claim" levels of the US, the amount of nonsense I've heard form customers over the years is frankly ridiculous, from the "Yes my part exchange has a full service history" lie, to the "I am going to take you to court because my Yeti has KM's on the digital display and you cant turn it off" its got ridiculous

Customer satisfaction surveys are a pain for both the dealership and customers, its just a mechanism for Skoda UK to retain back end money that should go to the dealership, Skoda surveys are marked out of 5 and only extremely satisfied on EVERY question will get the dealership a 5/5, considering 1% of backend money is held back and not paid per quarter if the average score is below 4.7 out of 5, its pretty important for main dealers who are coming under more and more pressure from manufacturers with brand standards, demo fleets etc they need this 1% money, so just do them a favour give them 5 out of 5 if the service has been good and move on or don't bother filling out the survey at all and tell the dealership if things have gone wrong, most will deal with it accordingly. The dealers are not the problem in this case, its Skoda UK who are sending out the surveys and hoping you'll score the dealership poorly so Skoda UK can retain the 1% and have nice demo's, flash offices and a great xmas party!

No you're right, I've completed this using: 1 - Module 09 - Electronic control unit. Code (31347) 2 - Adaptation 3 - Leuchte23SL HLC10 4 - Lichtfunktion D23 - (Change value to Tagfahrlicht ) 5 - Dimmwert CD23 - (Change value to 100 ) 6 - Dimming direction CD 23 - (Change value to Maximize ) 7 - Leuchte24SL HRA65 8 - Lichtfunktion D24 - (Change value to Tagfahrlicht ) 9 - Dimmwert CD24 - (Change value to 100) 10 - Dimming direction CD24 - (Change value to Maximize ) I'll remove my previous post to avoid any future confusion (turns out you cannot edit aged posts)

Its the good old fix or bodge scenario and langers2k was just stating the correct and proper way to fix it What sort of forum would it be if all the Op got was the wrong advise He even took the time to link to a spare part on eBay for him and stating the price You have a nice day now Oh and welcome to the forum

This image may help. The lever is just off the top of the image, but you can see how lifting the lever moves the catch or 'hook' to the left...

If you need to replace the DS3 xenon bulbs, the correct way is to remove the wheel arches first. This gives you better access to the rear of the headlight. There is another thread with the official workshop instructions. I believe you disconnect the connector to the DS3 bulb first before removing the bulb. IMPORTANT! Make sure the ignition is off and all doors remain closed, light switch turned upward, i.e. NOT on AUTO or ON during the entire process as if the lights try to turn on, very high and dangerous igniter voltages are generated. Probably best to disconnect the battery. OE Xenon bulbs have a rated life of 3000 hrs compared to 300 hours for halogens, generally said approx 4+ years. Upgrade bulbs will be different.

Did you notice the carpet tiles too. I’m feeling hard done by now but I do have a beer fridge given to me by my mother in law

Better the Devil or Angel you know! IMO stick with what you have that is not costing you money and in which you can trust.

If you were to be getting any better economy in the way of using less fuel that would have to be because the extra pressure in the tyres changed the profile and there is less tread on the ground so less friction meaning less traction. In a UK winter do you not want the tyres giving as much traction so steering and braking ability as possible. They are Summer tyres after all and not that great in the wet let alone in the wet, cold, snow or ice.

Took delivery of the ZX10R last Thursday and after a thorough inspection prior to signing the paperwork I put on a few goodies, I fitted a Puig Light Smoke Double Bubble Screen, Genuine Kawasaki Pillion Seat Cover and some R&G Paddock Stand Bobbins. Few more bits and bobs to fit as and when I buy them but for now its on the Optimiser under cover in the garage.

It seems no one is bent out of shape, apart from you. What you've posted is incorrect.

Went to Coffee and Cars at Southward today. Speedo stopped working on the way back. Must get onto that jobs list instead of just driving the car around More here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1595946703838953&type=1&l=77e9688190

Swapped the front emblem with the Black Monte Carlo one

I've just fell in love again... if this wasn't so close to Christmas I'd of snatched these off of you. GLWTS

i would not even think about buying that engine, any loss of oil pressure in any engine is a disaster and will be big money to put right

Does that mean other nationalities get charged different prices here?

Sensation, involvement, feedback, sure.... Changes of underpants, removing trapped seat cloth from the clenched buttocks, braver trousers, ice, snow,,,,, not so much.

Thanks for all the info'. Doesn't seem much point worrying if it arrives in Dec'. I ordered it in Sept'.

Can we see a video of the same manouvers with 4 winter tyres? I used to have a car with winter tyres (Town and Country) on the front only. So did a lot of people. Getting some traction was the sole consideration and that setup worked. I'm talking ancient history and not recommending the practice nowadays.

Others will be along shortly, check this thread, nobody knows why or how the supercharger fails, some have failed before 30k....

Well I took the decision this weekend to pay off the loan for mine rather than keep paying it monthly. It'll mean no savings pot but it'll save me £1400 in interest (3% deal from Zopa for 5 years). Technically I'd probably be better off if I continued paying it off as the money in the Zopa/Funding Circle would have earned more than the £1,400, but with some changes in work and the kid at nursery a bit more its the monthly payments that are crippling. So technically all that will be left to pay off the car will be £5k thats on 0% for another 6 months by which time I should be able to clear that too. Will put my mind at rest at least.

Here is a close up of the piston. Sorry I don't know manufacturer. I've done 500 miles since having the new pistons and rings. It hasn't drank a drop of oil. It would normally have had 1 litre by now. Job done.

Yep the deal I saw for the new 245 was approx £1500 more than what I will be paying over my 2 year lease. They're getting more expensive which will drive me down the route of buying my current 245, if possible!

Over time they went from not lifting properly, to not lifting at all and dropping the thing on my head! No leaks at all. And I was surprised - I've owned several hatches/estates (Astra's, Cavaliers, a golf and an old banger Fiesta) over the last 30+ years that all had lifting struts, and none has ever failed after twice the mileage(56k)/twice the age(2014) of the Rapid. Says a lot IMHO that the parts are so easy to get, esp at a discount. Mind you, not as bad a weakness as the old Golf 1.4 - consumed oil at the rate indicated in the handbook (never had any other car do this that wasn't totally worn out or leaking) - with the obvious knock-on effect on the EGR and throttle body. Same car also ate springs! So much for VW group "legendary reliabiity"!

For reference, here's what I have (excuse the state of the car, only got back from Longleat late last night!) Definitely not OEM based on your pics above, I think I'll take a punt on that Valeo sensor.

This shows it all, excuse the mess in the boot! Dead easy to fit and follows the curve of the bumper really well, just seems a bit narrow as there is an obvious step before the boot opening that I would expect the cover to butt up against. I got it on ebay when there was a voucher code so a bit cheaper than going direct to RGM even though it was shipped direct from them.

I think you need some monkey nut crushers

Here's an idea. Slap a "FOR SALE" Sign in the rear window and keep driving it... You can bet your bottom Euro anyone who likes that colour will pay that little bit more then a dealer will offer or then someone who is just thinking of a Skud but not committed. In the meantime, stick with it and wait for nice spring deals!

Do you have a "working at height" assessment for refueling?

Might be your luck but mine has no rattles and it's gone 3yr old now. Dealers, hmmm, no better than anyone else.

Does anyone do custom maps? Mines hit 330hp, 450nm without any mods through one, using 99RON.

You sure that's not from dogging down the carpark

I usually put it under the rear wishbone mounting or part of the sub frame where it is bolted to the body, depends on the car but as long as you find something solid it doesn't matter. There are sometimes jacking points under covers on some cars that are usually used for 2 posts lifts which can be used but most axle stands have that U shape so a flat surface isn't really ideal.

I use the function regularly to clear the mirror of rain & find it very effective. The heaters do time out - by checking the "convenience consumer" setting you will see " Mirror heating" when it's actually on, usually above "air conditioning" which is there whether it's on or off !

Aleseypalsy also later stated he/she had an LED bulb. These CAN show up a fault on some models whilst being fine on others. Additionally, many LED bulbs are pole sensitive. Pop them in one way round, they work, the other and they won't. This is not a fault, just design. If you fit any LED to any vehicle and at first, it won't light up, pop it out, turn it the other way round and try again. Also, they drain such a low voltage that many cars think there is a blown bulb, so tell the driver of this with a warning light or code. The other issue is on signals. As the bulb draws such a low amount of power, the signals can flash twice as fast as normal, which again, is the car telling the driver there is a blown bulb! In this situation, a resistor may well be needed.

Not totally incorrect. On Brexit it is unanimous. Even tiny Luxembourg has the same weight as France or Germany. With a simple majority again small states can corner larger ones. But on the whole probably more democratic than FPTP.

"Come and look out the window Billy... See the people outside? Idiots Billy... most of them are idiots..."

My policy clearly states to report even no fault accidents. As has been said above if you have had an accident even no fault most companies add a percentage point or two as a risk. You may still be in the same cost or it may tip you into a slight increase. Statistically someone who has had an accident is more likely to have another.

I didn't realise your car has stop/start - your car is a micro hybrid! Alternator in stop start cars are smart alternators and operates a micro hybrid charging scheme under control from the ECU. So doesn't always charge depending on several scenarios. https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/ Sounds as if your battery State Of Charge has got out of kilter with the SOC stored in the ecu. Either the battery is dying, or you/someone has charged or jump started or drained the battery not using the ground point so the ECU didnt see it and has an incorrect SOC. Or its just drifted with age and need recalibrating. You need to fully charge the battery, take care how you connect the charger, the negative lead of the charger needs to be connected to the special ground tab on the bulkhead and NOT the negative terminal of the battery. Its all explained in the owners manual. Fully charged will take >24 hours. That or a new battery may fix everything. On vehicles with the START/STOP system, the pole terminal of the charger must not be connected directly to the negative terminal of the vehicle battery, but only to the engine earth » page 244, Jump-starting in vehicles with the START-STOP system.

@Lady Elanore - I'm genuinely not surprised by that; as a general rule it's only people who like brass band music (or at least have watched "Sounding Brass" who know what a flugel is! So, "Orange Juice"?

Sad isn't it, really. I think my lack of riding in the cold and wet comes from riding for work all year round, in all weathers for 7 years. It took the enjoyment out of it. Now I have the choice, I'm more inclined to take the car when it's yuk out there.