StevesTruck

Or injector seals.

I'm thinking a bad battery connection or battery earth.

I found mine, and the Ibiza before it were better on load rated tyres. It's not that the Fabia's heavy, more that the weight distribution is terrible.

Expect the bolts to be very seized, very seized indeed, and accessible only by spanner with the hub in place.

I've just had a look on the Klarius catalogue and it's given me this for the single cab 1.6: They don't list anything specifically for the Fun, but I can't really see that being an issue. I'd be sceptical about a 9k Caddy van for a Polo part fiting, as they have a lot more space at the front. As far as I know, the Caddy van never got the 1.6 8V engine, the only petrol being the 1.4 16V

Not sure that I'd be turning that on. I think that's in the sort of range that had medical applications.

If it's the same as a Mk4 Golf, just open the door and start the car, the immob should cancel the alarm.

Generally 5GHz is faster, but 2.4 is more tolerant of range and obstacles. I often put basic devices on 2.4 and save the 5 for better ones. You can get Wifi meter apps which are good for having a walk round the house with and finding good and bad spots.

Might have been someone wanting a tiny amount more grip, or like @vindaloosays, kerb protection for the wheels. Bit of a length to go to though because 215's are normally expensive in any size.

I put a chipped ECU on at the same time. Only notable thing is a very slight roughness to the idle and a shudder when you turn the engine off. I probably wouldn't have bothered taking it off but I had the delete pipe from my old car.

The only problem with fitting a towbar is lifting the thing. Someone on here is probably about to tell you that you need the latest canbus interfaced VAG approved microcontroller freeze dried wiring adapter... It's not true. As long as you can do basic wiring, you just need a bypass relay. Yes, the Fabia also came with 15" and 16" wheels, so fitting 15's isn't a problem. If you dont want to get into comparing offsets and bolt seats and all that, the easiest thing to do is just get a set off another VAG car. Just make sure that they're 5 x100 mm fitting pattern, not 5 X 112mm or the older 4 stud fittings. So basically that's any Fabia, polo or Ibiza from this century, MK1 Octavia, TT, Golf mk3/4. As long as you stick to, or are very close to the standard tyre size Skoda used, which is 195/50/15, you won't have any Speedo issues. The handling will probably be a bit tighter.

Probably Febi or Pierburg

You can if you need to, it just gets in the way a bit. I left mine on because it wasn't going to come off without a fight.

Can't quite see why you're not just using Mk1 Octavia VRS fronts that would grab the disc properly and make use of the extra size? Id be concerned about warping the disc by getting the edge hot but not closer to the hub.

Looks like there's a bit of a lip on the edge of the disc as well which would explain the screech. I've found that grooved discs do wear fast.

There's worse things than a motability car. I don't know if it's still the case, but about 10 years ago, Enterprise Rent-A-Car were the biggest vehicle re-marketing company in Europe.

Most main dealership groups are heavily tied into finance companies, if not owned altogether by them. BCA / WeBuyAnyCar / Cinch / Marshall Motorgroup are all the same group.

Looks more like it's got some sort of coating on that's broken up

The bottom of a beer can also works quite well. I couldn't get a genuine part, but Staropramen is Czech, so I thought that's probably as close to OEM as you'll find.

A 1.6TDI is going to be a little bit better on fuel, smoother and cheaper on tax. PD's pull from low down, CR's like to rev a bit more. Everything's going to want a set of brakes one day. It's probably worth pricing up a clutch and flywheel so you know what the numbers are saying. Keep at the back of your mind that a 1.6 will probably want a set of injectors at some stage. Any particular reason why you're looking for a 1.6 rather than a 2.0? I can't see a lot of reason other than road tax bands and a very slight amount of economy, but my impression is that the 2.0 is generally more reliable.

If it's just the rear "console" bush, they're available as a separate part to the wishbone, very inexpensive and not particularly time consuming to change if the cars in the air. Whether you want to change the whole wishbone/arm depends a bit on the state of the inner bush and the arm as a whole.

Normally blue

Yep, that is a bit random. I wonder if the header tanks been replaced with a poor pattern one at some point. Either way, I think I'd chance a new tank and cap before taking the engine out. Like I say, I think you're chasing two separate faults that together look bad.

Thats a bit oddball. Are you sure it's not the cap seal or the level sender sending a tiny amount of water down the outside of the tank, which is then accumulating on the lip?

Sounds like you've got it. If you're having another look another day, it's always worth changing the pollen filter, or at least taking it out and having a look at it. It's probably worth running your cable down the pipe again just to make sure it's definitely clear. Whenever I have a car with a sunroof, I rod through all the drainage pipes in the same way when I do a service.