StevesTruck

The thing to bear in mind with BCA is if you've not got an account and aren't buying quite a bit off them, the fees can be more than the difference between the hammer price and buying one on a forecourt.

MFD is the Multi Function Display on the dashboard VCDS is a computer program and associated cable for reading faults on the car and changing settings. https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/

Do you know if they worked previously? On some cars, you need to have the rear window heater turned on for the mirror heats to work. I don't know if this is true on Mk2 Superb, but it could be worth trying. Did you check all the fuses, even the ones that don't seem related? Has anything else stopped working?

It's worse than that. The 084 was designed in the 70's, then they bodged a 5th gear on the end, hoped the oil got that far, and called it an 085.

A rubber hose isn't going to be made to be safe to use for 30 years, I don't think any part of a car would be, especially a flexible peice that's been bent to shape.

Hard to say really, stuff wears at different rates on different cars. At least it's an easy fix though. If I were had to replace a hose, I'd hope it was that one. It's just a bit of flexible fuel hose, so even if you went to Halfords for some, you'd be spending less than a tenner. Pair of pliers and a stanley knife and you'll have it done in ten minutes.

Not need for a pressure bleeder unless you've already got one and fancy using it. 10 minute job with an assistant, a spanner, a bit of pipe and a coke can. Check the fluid level. Get someone to pump the clutch about a dozen times and hold it down. Stick a bit of pipe on the end and run it into something to catch the fluid, open the bleed nipple (it will squirt). Pump the pedal another dozen times, hold it down and close the nipple. Should be alright from there. Check the fluid level again.

Not quite sure I'm following which bits got you stuck? Is it the pinch bolt that clamps the hub assembly onto the shock that you're talking about? I'd personally normally take the strut out whole if I was changing a spring. You'll also want the release tool that opens the hub just the right amount. Whacking a chisel in can crack the sleeve on the hub assembly really easily. If you've got the nut off that bolt, I've give it a spray all over and let it soak overnight, then just knock it through with a hammer and drift. Worst case, put the air chisel on it. Don't use heat that close to a shock absorber.

Tesco household glass cleaner (green one in a spray bottle) and blue roll.

Did you check that the wiring at the alternator was ok and undamaged?

Well, I've seen how long it takes them to press a button to turn a sign on when theres been a breakdown on the motorway.... Not sure it would be much slower if they were on strike. All the wombles seem to do is get there slower than the police and stand around wishing they were the police until recovery gets there

As far as I know, you're right, the left hand maxi is the alternator. Most likely the cable has broken and shorted to ground somewhere, most likely the ring terminal on the alternator has frayed off. It's most likely going to be a "could have been worse" or "looks worse than it is" job. First step for me would probably be make sure that cable is disconnected at both ends, start the car and see what happens.

Sounds fishy to me. I wouldnt say let it go that far, but there's a fair way between the light being on and metal on metal.

That was it, cheers, found the first 2 fuses, didn't think there'd be a third that didn't stop anything else working.

I think I've got this issue. Front washers and wipers have stopped working altogether. But when you press the washers, the back wiper runs. Fuses are all ok. Does that sound like the relay? Any issues with swapping the whole board for a second hand one?

I've ordered from them when they were superskoda (I think that was their old name). No issues at all.

Also worth bearing in mind - ever sit on a loose toilet seat? Imagine doing that and trying to correct it without standing up, after a few beers, at 60mph. That's what sudden tyre depressurisation on the back feels like. I've had it twice in my life, it's very much not fun. The first time, youthful reflexes stopped me rolling it into a ditch. The second time a couple of lorry drivers who were well on the ball let me in out of lane 3 when the back of my van sidestepped and I put my beacons on. Sudden tyre depressurisation on the front is something I've never experienced, and never want to.

I'd agree with @tootit's outside of what an MOT would cover if you've got valve caps on, but it's not right, get it sorted. Personally, I'm of the stand point that I'll drive some of the most borderline illegal **** on the road, but there's two things I'll never cut corners on - brakes and tyres. If they were on my 06 Berlingo and I'd got £50 to last me til Friday, I'd spend £40 getting new valves put on. A 2019 vrs deserves better.

Located on the the screen wash tank. Easiest way to get to it is to remove the left hand front wheel arch liner. They're a fairly generic part, often not even brand specific, so any parts place should be able to get you a pattern one. If you haven't got anywhere local, try partsinmotion - if they don't list one, their support chat are really good and should be able to source one.

The thing I've found on Mk1 fabias is the rust proofing is largely really, really good good, like the standard of work Karmann did on Mk2 Sciroccos and Mk1 Golf cabrios. Like those cars though, but when moisture creeps in behind it, the damage is done before it's noticeable. There could well be an element of "don't really want the job" at play, not always for bad reasons. I sometimes get asked if I can bodge a patch onto a car to get it through MOT, I don't like doing it because a) I hate welding, and b) I know it's going to fail and leave a bigger mess sooner or later.

Nothing's insurmountable, but my thoughts would be the same as what the garage are saying, and the rust is what will govern if it's worth doing or not. Do you know if it's actually rusted at the axle mount, or if it's the inner or outer sill making it fail because it's within a certain distance of the mount? If it's an inner or outer sill, it could probably be patched making it "ok" for a while, as an alternative to the time and expense of putting a new sill section in. If it's the floor at the axle mount, then yeah, big job. I think dad's managed to keep his X-reg back from hitting that point for a few years with a lot of wire brushing and repainting.

Sounds good to me 👍 Anyone who says WD's no good, never tried letting it soak in, then setting fire to it! 😁

I'd give it overnight for the spray to soak in and do its job, then have another crack at it. I'm a big believer in "give it a spray and walk away". Don't get too far into using the "right" sort of spray, we've all got our favourites. I had a polo one that wasn't playing ball a while ago. I cut the cable just after the tube, pulled the cables core out and was able to crush and generally fettle what was left of the shroud out where it was sticking in the back of the tube. The guides are made out of fairly thin metal, so if you've been pulling at it too much, there's a fair chance it will have gone out of shape, so it might be a battle to get the new cable in. The guide tubes aren't expensive and are easy to change. It's worth putting a bit of lubrication on the outside of the new cable shroud before you run it into the tube.

You'll find the engine bay is very tight to be putting a turbo on the back. Not saying it's impossible, but it will be tricky.

Glad you've found the cause, even if you're still working at the solution. I'm wondering if that code's getting read or interpreted wrongly by the scan tool http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00105 gives 00105 (not 01050) as a central locking fault.