StevesTruck

Pointless but cool - I like them. They need some 80's Cibie or Hella logos printed on!

Crank sensor wouldn't stop it turning over. There can be a difference between 12v showing on a multimeter at the end of a wire and a useful amount of current being able to flow down it if the wires a bit mashed up inside. That's the benefit of using a test bulb like Keith said. If it didn't spin when you ran a hot wire to it on the car, yeah, I'd suspect it's the solenoid at fault.

Start the car, put the handbrake on put it in gear and lift the clutch a bit. see if the back end of the car goes down evenly or one-sided Jack the back wheels up and give them a spin with and without the handbrake on.

I wouldn't necessarily say don't go down the 125cc route, just be a bit aware of the differences. CBT, you can be on in a day, virtually guaranteed, for a relatively small sum. Full licence, you're looking at a week or two, and probably spending a grand or so. But if you're doing your full licence, day one will be the same as doing your CBT anyway, so you've still had that learning experience. There's no harm in doing your CBT to get a feel for it then deciding where to go next. Legally, there's stuff you can't do with just a CBT. It's that 125 restriction, L plates, no passenger, no motorways. The bike - depends a bit, but you'll be able to do most/all speed limits. Some are more basic, some do ride well (thinking of the r125). But, I'll be the one that admits it, 125's are harder to ride than bigger bikes. You've got to keep them in their powerband, slip the clutch more, and you haven't always got the braking and handling. They're not as planted on the road as a bigger bike. Flip side is, if you do drop it doing a bit of pottering around on rough roads, you'll be able to pick it up easily. I've had a couple of people who ride 125's try my bike and they've always said the same two things: It's heavy (but my bike is really heavy). It's really easy to ride compared to theirs. Horses for courses. Some of my best rides, that I've truly enjoyed most, since I got back on have been pottering around the back lanes on a 125, taking it all in. But, would I get on a 125 and do 100 miles each way up to the peaks because I wake up and want to? There's certainly people who do, and fair play to them.

It's probably worth having a couple of refresher lessons just to get a feel for it again if it's been that long. At the same time bit of saddle time on the learner bike will give you a bit of an idea of what you want in your own bike. Also, I've only ridden one Zero, and it was pretty bonkers 🤣 If you're not bothered about going "fast fast", there's plenty of good stuff about in A2 format. You mentioned getting up into the peaks with it. If you're think crap roads rather than full on green Laning, something like the Honda CB500X might be worth a look. Don't get hung up on what everyone says is the "best brand", just go with what feels right to you. Personally, I like Honda's. Bit boring, but they're set out in a way that works for me, and they're reliable. I'd say unless you fall in love with something else in particular, start your search with Japanese stuff. Sensibly priced, reliable, not finicky or expensive when you need to do some work. If that doesn't appeal, Royal Enfield are doing some really nice stuff in A2 with a rough road focus.

They can break up over time. I've run it through a couple of parts catalogues I've got access to and I'm not getting anything back in non-gen, the best option might be to get a custom exhaust place to make one up.

If you want to be totally sure before you spend money changing the starter/solenoid, you can test it the opposite way by dropping 12v from the battery down a bit of wire straight to the spade connector on the solenoid. If the key is off, it should spin over when you connect the power (make sure you're not in gear), or start if the key is on.

https://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/auction-catalogues/fine-car-auctions/catalogue-id-fine-c10014/lot-a0e8a426-73ee-400f-829e-af8900d4f76b

I've had/got loads of battery chargers/conditioners, some quite expensive, and nothing brings a battery back like a basic, low current charger. The best one I've found for bringing them back is a cheap solar panel if you've got a lot of time on your hands. I normally start them off with a day on that, then move to a charger that's probably 10 years older than me, but that has a 1A shunt on it.

The thing to bear in mind with BCA is if you've not got an account and aren't buying quite a bit off them, the fees can be more than the difference between the hammer price and buying one on a forecourt.

MFD is the Multi Function Display on the dashboard VCDS is a computer program and associated cable for reading faults on the car and changing settings. https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/

Do you know if they worked previously? On some cars, you need to have the rear window heater turned on for the mirror heats to work. I don't know if this is true on Mk2 Superb, but it could be worth trying. Did you check all the fuses, even the ones that don't seem related? Has anything else stopped working?

It's worse than that. The 084 was designed in the 70's, then they bodged a 5th gear on the end, hoped the oil got that far, and called it an 085.

A rubber hose isn't going to be made to be safe to use for 30 years, I don't think any part of a car would be, especially a flexible peice that's been bent to shape.

Hard to say really, stuff wears at different rates on different cars. At least it's an easy fix though. If I were had to replace a hose, I'd hope it was that one. It's just a bit of flexible fuel hose, so even if you went to Halfords for some, you'd be spending less than a tenner. Pair of pliers and a stanley knife and you'll have it done in ten minutes.

Not need for a pressure bleeder unless you've already got one and fancy using it. 10 minute job with an assistant, a spanner, a bit of pipe and a coke can. Check the fluid level. Get someone to pump the clutch about a dozen times and hold it down. Stick a bit of pipe on the end and run it into something to catch the fluid, open the bleed nipple (it will squirt). Pump the pedal another dozen times, hold it down and close the nipple. Should be alright from there. Check the fluid level again.

Not quite sure I'm following which bits got you stuck? Is it the pinch bolt that clamps the hub assembly onto the shock that you're talking about? I'd personally normally take the strut out whole if I was changing a spring. You'll also want the release tool that opens the hub just the right amount. Whacking a chisel in can crack the sleeve on the hub assembly really easily. If you've got the nut off that bolt, I've give it a spray all over and let it soak overnight, then just knock it through with a hammer and drift. Worst case, put the air chisel on it. Don't use heat that close to a shock absorber.

Tesco household glass cleaner (green one in a spray bottle) and blue roll.

Did you check that the wiring at the alternator was ok and undamaged?

Well, I've seen how long it takes them to press a button to turn a sign on when theres been a breakdown on the motorway.... Not sure it would be much slower if they were on strike. All the wombles seem to do is get there slower than the police and stand around wishing they were the police until recovery gets there

As far as I know, you're right, the left hand maxi is the alternator. Most likely the cable has broken and shorted to ground somewhere, most likely the ring terminal on the alternator has frayed off. It's most likely going to be a "could have been worse" or "looks worse than it is" job. First step for me would probably be make sure that cable is disconnected at both ends, start the car and see what happens.

Sounds fishy to me. I wouldnt say let it go that far, but there's a fair way between the light being on and metal on metal.

That was it, cheers, found the first 2 fuses, didn't think there'd be a third that didn't stop anything else working.

I think I've got this issue. Front washers and wipers have stopped working altogether. But when you press the washers, the back wiper runs. Fuses are all ok. Does that sound like the relay? Any issues with swapping the whole board for a second hand one?

I've ordered from them when they were superskoda (I think that was their old name). No issues at all.