StevesTruck

If gassing it doesn't work (any brand of ez start should work, I've used a can of lynx before), don't overcomplicate, there's only 4 things that make them run: suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Prove or disprove those to yourself and you're most of the way there. I couldn't see what the LED by the clock was doing as the engine was turning over.

Forgot it will be a real zetec, rather than a duratec. Great engines. Obvious question for the fuel pump not working. Have you reset the crash switch? Not sure on a focus, but on an escort, the immobiliser runs off the door locks and cuts the fuel pump, so if the car thinks it's locked, that could be it. The PATS runs off the key chip and cuts the ECU.

I forgot they even came out on an S-reg, I had an X-reg Escort.

I ordered one for a MK1 fabia about 5-7 years ago through a local locksmith ("local" Skoda parts counter is 40 miles away, he could read the key code and order it over the phone). It came from TPS ready to fit a few days later. It wasn't as cheap as a pattern one with a random key and he'd marked it up to RRP, but it wasn't terribly expensive. VAG lock barrels this age are pretty generic. I would imagine they just take an empty barrel off the shelf and assemble it with the relevant wafers.

You say that, but... it didn't work. Well, technically, it was a C-Max.

True, but it's very basic and doesn't always get on with talking to things. Don't get me wrong, on VAG, VCDS is great at what it does, but on anything else, it's not got a lot going for it over my £20 Aldi code reader.

VCDS is good, it'll do most things you could ever want to do on a VAG car, and there's a lot of support out there for it if you want to know how to find out how to do something, but, it's not perfect. It's a bit on the clunky side to use, not always intuitive and relies on other hardware - not so bad since you can buy the later wireless versions and use them with a phone or tablet , but I do have direct experience of being broken down and having my VCDS cable, but not my laptop. There's also the obvious limitation that you can't use it when your mate's Focus throws up a light. The Gendan and TopDon stuff is also good, but you need to buy the right version for the level of diagnostic you want to go into. The upside is, it's all on one package, pretty easy to use without bothering to read the book, and works on anything with an OBD port (ours cleared a fault light on a Merc LGV the other day).

84" * 59" ? Now you're just bragging. Do you secure it with a bungee cord?

Either way, replace after 10 years, even if still sealed in the packet.

No disrespect meant to your mate, but I think the point Ken's making is the Fabia is a harder job than the Octavia, for quite a lot of reasons, including space and the fact it's an electric pump. Make sure he's had a good look at things and a read and knows what he's getting into before he starts. Also make sure he marks up where the subframe currently is before he drops it, there's quite a bit of wiggle room / alignment adjustment on them.

You've got a few options. Depends how much you want to spend, how far it is to the shed, and how much messing about you want to do to get it to work. In the extreme of not spending money and doing a bit of dicking around, you can normally get an old broadband router to work as an access point. The main key is turning off DHCP and letting your ISPs router do that. There's various tutorials on youtube for doing that sort of thing. Going up a notch, you could buy a cable router and do something similar. Both will need you to run a cable down there. upside if, yo'll get a few network sockets. Middle ground, if it's not an epic distance to the shed is a WiFi extender, or better still a wifi mesh. The TP-Link home meshes are pretty good. If you're using a basic extender, it might work better on the end of a cable run. You don't neccessarily need a switch to be PoE, as long as the phone's got a power supply/PoE injector. You're probably better off going down a cable rather than WiFi as much as possible to avoid latancy on phone calls and zooms being an issue.

Doesn't sound good. what's the oil like? Any sign of it being low of having diesel in? Has it suddenly start, or crept in, of been doing it as long as you've had the car?

It's worth seeing if it your "extensive" list of mods makes it cheaper to go with a specialist than a standard car insurer. I did it once for an air filter to save a fair bit on my premium. Only problem was, I then had to go buy an aftermarket air filter.

Unless you've got a reason to want to get out of your current car, I'd say when they get to this age, there's a big element of "better the devil you know".

Suppose is depends where you passed the 50mph sign/gantry. Also if you're going to speed in an average speed camera zone, remember to change lanes in between the cameras. 😉

Have you checked your tyres for wear and pressure? Is there a brake rubbing? Have you ever loosened or removed the subframe, or is there a chance someone has in the past?7

Pointless but cool - I like them. They need some 80's Cibie or Hella logos printed on!

Crank sensor wouldn't stop it turning over. There can be a difference between 12v showing on a multimeter at the end of a wire and a useful amount of current being able to flow down it if the wires a bit mashed up inside. That's the benefit of using a test bulb like Keith said. If it didn't spin when you ran a hot wire to it on the car, yeah, I'd suspect it's the solenoid at fault.

Start the car, put the handbrake on put it in gear and lift the clutch a bit. see if the back end of the car goes down evenly or one-sided Jack the back wheels up and give them a spin with and without the handbrake on.

I wouldn't necessarily say don't go down the 125cc route, just be a bit aware of the differences. CBT, you can be on in a day, virtually guaranteed, for a relatively small sum. Full licence, you're looking at a week or two, and probably spending a grand or so. But if you're doing your full licence, day one will be the same as doing your CBT anyway, so you've still had that learning experience. There's no harm in doing your CBT to get a feel for it then deciding where to go next. Legally, there's stuff you can't do with just a CBT. It's that 125 restriction, L plates, no passenger, no motorways. The bike - depends a bit, but you'll be able to do most/all speed limits. Some are more basic, some do ride well (thinking of the r125). But, I'll be the one that admits it, 125's are harder to ride than bigger bikes. You've got to keep them in their powerband, slip the clutch more, and you haven't always got the braking and handling. They're not as planted on the road as a bigger bike. Flip side is, if you do drop it doing a bit of pottering around on rough roads, you'll be able to pick it up easily. I've had a couple of people who ride 125's try my bike and they've always said the same two things: It's heavy (but my bike is really heavy). It's really easy to ride compared to theirs. Horses for courses. Some of my best rides, that I've truly enjoyed most, since I got back on have been pottering around the back lanes on a 125, taking it all in. But, would I get on a 125 and do 100 miles each way up to the peaks because I wake up and want to? There's certainly people who do, and fair play to them.

It's probably worth having a couple of refresher lessons just to get a feel for it again if it's been that long. At the same time bit of saddle time on the learner bike will give you a bit of an idea of what you want in your own bike. Also, I've only ridden one Zero, and it was pretty bonkers 🤣 If you're not bothered about going "fast fast", there's plenty of good stuff about in A2 format. You mentioned getting up into the peaks with it. If you're think crap roads rather than full on green Laning, something like the Honda CB500X might be worth a look. Don't get hung up on what everyone says is the "best brand", just go with what feels right to you. Personally, I like Honda's. Bit boring, but they're set out in a way that works for me, and they're reliable. I'd say unless you fall in love with something else in particular, start your search with Japanese stuff. Sensibly priced, reliable, not finicky or expensive when you need to do some work. If that doesn't appeal, Royal Enfield are doing some really nice stuff in A2 with a rough road focus.

They can break up over time. I've run it through a couple of parts catalogues I've got access to and I'm not getting anything back in non-gen, the best option might be to get a custom exhaust place to make one up.

If you want to be totally sure before you spend money changing the starter/solenoid, you can test it the opposite way by dropping 12v from the battery down a bit of wire straight to the spade connector on the solenoid. If the key is off, it should spin over when you connect the power (make sure you're not in gear), or start if the key is on.

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I've had/got loads of battery chargers/conditioners, some quite expensive, and nothing brings a battery back like a basic, low current charger. The best one I've found for bringing them back is a cheap solar panel if you've got a lot of time on your hands. I normally start them off with a day on that, then move to a charger that's probably 10 years older than me, but that has a 1A shunt on it.