StevesTruck

Also worth bearing in mind - ever sit on a loose toilet seat? Imagine doing that and trying to correct it without standing up, after a few beers, at 60mph. That's what sudden tyre depressurisation on the back feels like. I've had it twice in my life, it's very much not fun. The first time, youthful reflexes stopped me rolling it into a ditch. The second time a couple of lorry drivers who were well on the ball let me in out of lane 3 when the back of my van sidestepped and I put my beacons on. Sudden tyre depressurisation on the front is something I've never experienced, and never want to.

I'd agree with @tootit's outside of what an MOT would cover if you've got valve caps on, but it's not right, get it sorted. Personally, I'm of the stand point that I'll drive some of the most borderline illegal **** on the road, but there's two things I'll never cut corners on - brakes and tyres. If they were on my 06 Berlingo and I'd got £50 to last me til Friday, I'd spend £40 getting new valves put on. A 2019 vrs deserves better.

Located on the the screen wash tank. Easiest way to get to it is to remove the left hand front wheel arch liner. They're a fairly generic part, often not even brand specific, so any parts place should be able to get you a pattern one. If you haven't got anywhere local, try partsinmotion - if they don't list one, their support chat are really good and should be able to source one.

The thing I've found on Mk1 fabias is the rust proofing is largely really, really good good, like the standard of work Karmann did on Mk2 Sciroccos and Mk1 Golf cabrios. Like those cars though, but when moisture creeps in behind it, the damage is done before it's noticeable. There could well be an element of "don't really want the job" at play, not always for bad reasons. I sometimes get asked if I can bodge a patch onto a car to get it through MOT, I don't like doing it because a) I hate welding, and b) I know it's going to fail and leave a bigger mess sooner or later.

Nothing's insurmountable, but my thoughts would be the same as what the garage are saying, and the rust is what will govern if it's worth doing or not. Do you know if it's actually rusted at the axle mount, or if it's the inner or outer sill making it fail because it's within a certain distance of the mount? If it's an inner or outer sill, it could probably be patched making it "ok" for a while, as an alternative to the time and expense of putting a new sill section in. If it's the floor at the axle mount, then yeah, big job. I think dad's managed to keep his X-reg back from hitting that point for a few years with a lot of wire brushing and repainting.

Sounds good to me 👍 Anyone who says WD's no good, never tried letting it soak in, then setting fire to it! 😁

I'd give it overnight for the spray to soak in and do its job, then have another crack at it. I'm a big believer in "give it a spray and walk away". Don't get too far into using the "right" sort of spray, we've all got our favourites. I had a polo one that wasn't playing ball a while ago. I cut the cable just after the tube, pulled the cables core out and was able to crush and generally fettle what was left of the shroud out where it was sticking in the back of the tube. The guides are made out of fairly thin metal, so if you've been pulling at it too much, there's a fair chance it will have gone out of shape, so it might be a battle to get the new cable in. The guide tubes aren't expensive and are easy to change. It's worth putting a bit of lubrication on the outside of the new cable shroud before you run it into the tube.

You'll find the engine bay is very tight to be putting a turbo on the back. Not saying it's impossible, but it will be tricky.

Glad you've found the cause, even if you're still working at the solution. I'm wondering if that code's getting read or interpreted wrongly by the scan tool http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00105 gives 00105 (not 01050) as a central locking fault.

Bit of an odd one, it sounds like something else has been interfered with in the process of the other work. Is it a hatchback, estate or saloon? First thing I'd be doing is use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314027117048 to see if the key's being read and talking back. If it's anything like my caddy, there's three bits to the immobiliser. The collar on the lock barrel reads the code, then passes it to a black box up above the fusebox to decode, then passes the code to the ECU to verify. Worst case, I'd get a chipped ECU with an immobiliser delete in (and have a few more HP with it).

You can use a spanner, I've used a pair of stilsons on other cars with better access. The issue is being able to get in there with it, get enough leverage on it to crack the joint off, then get enough of a turn on to get the spanner on the next face.

Simple stuff first 👍

Check the spare wheel's fastened down then my next suspect would be exhaust.

The easiest way to drain them is to take the hose off the fuel filter and pump the fuel out from there with a separate transfer pump. Run it until it's dry, then put a bit of diesel in the tank, and make sure the pump's pulling clean diesel. The bodge is to do the same, but run the lift pump in the tank either by flicking the key, bridging the relay or using a diagnostic tool to run the pump. As above, the big risk is that the high pressure pump, and to a lesser extent, the injectors, won't be getting lubricated properly, so might fail sooner than expected. There's no real way to say if that's in 10 minutes, 10 days or 10 years.

A VAG one won't fit unfortunately, they're a Skoda box originating back from before Skoda were part of VAG. The driveshafts push into the box on splines rather than bolt onto output cups like a VW.

Leave it at the end of the drive, someone will have it away for scrap metal.

I've had this on a 2002 Ibiza, black wire corrosion pretty much everywhere. I spent two years getting by patching in sections but it was never totally right.

I have a rule with diesels - The worse it looks, the simpler the fault normally is. Any spluttering, smoke from the exhaust or anything when you tried to start it, or literally just churning over? Any indication that you might have upset the immobiliser? Is there fuel in the filter? I don't know if it can happen on PD's, but I've had experience of a Vauxhall where the guy who was on it before me got the pump pulley 360 degrees out of time.

I'd sort of see the argument either way on that one. I've always tested at the reservoir because it should be where the fluid is in its worst state for water content, because deterioration would most normally happen from the fluid pulling in moisture from the air in the reservoir, and no where else should be open to air. But at the same time, I've seen some dirty, nasty brake fluid come out of the other end of the system, when the stuff in the reservoirs looked fine.

Yeah, I've found brembo to be a mixed bag in recent years. Same as @FluffyEyeball - I had one warp on my Octavia as well. I put TRW's on the front of my van a couple of weeks/couple of thousand miles ago and I've been really happy with them. Good price too. Not sure I'd use autodoc again because their delivery times are a lottery, and I've been sent a cheap sensor from them when I paid for a branded one. I far prefer partsinmotion - fast delivery, decent prices and really helpful when you talk to them.

Not as easy on a Fabia because of where the filler is... The fluid in a pas system circulates when you steer. I wouldn't normally look to drain and refill the system because you won't get it all out easily What I normally do is empty the reservoir with a syringe, take the return pipe off and put that into a catch bottle. Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Work the steering lock to lock and top the reservoir up until the fluid coming out of the return is clean. Unless the steering is feeling notchy I wouldn't really bother though. I changed the caddys fluid because I had to change the rack due to a fluid leak. The Berlingo felt a bit notchy sometimes when it was cold.

Was alright for what it was. I've had a 900cc MK1 polo, loved it, but the fiesta was a far better car technically

Can't hurt, but I wouldn't be in a rush to do it at 8 years old. Think both my Caddy and my Berlingo were 16 years old when I did a change. The fluid looked nasty n both. Made a marginal difference on the Caddy, but did help the Berlingo on cold mornings.

Love my VAG cars, but there's only been one make and model of car ever made, that there's never been a bad version of, and that was the Fiesta.

It could equally be the alternator pulley. Have a listen which end of the engine it's coming from.