KenONeill

See my last. As I implied there, a load at an angle to the master cylinder bore would make the pedal move less smoothly, and this could manifest itself as higher pedal effort.

"...test Whatcar conducted..."

Too long. Unless you're using demist or de-ice functionality, just wait long enough to fasten your seat belt before driving off. Similarly, half a mile or so with the engine at town driving speed is all you need to cool a turbo from a highway speed trip.

I'm not clear on which direction this static load was in. If it was at an angle to the bore of the cylinder then it was definitely wrong, because it would tend to stop smooth activation and full release of the brakes. I'm also not sufficiently familiar with the design of the braking system to comment 100% on a force along that line, but I'd doubt it was correct unless it was the force of a return spring inside the master cylinder, or an anti-rattle spring on the pedal.

Let's unwrap this because it's a complex subject. The Jikov and Pierburg happen to have the same baseplate, so you can swap one for the other as long as the new one has much the same jets. Let's presume you're contemplating a swap for reliability rather than more power or better economy. Now most manufacturers of compound twin choke downdraft carbs realise this offers a decent market, so they make their their baseplates the same size too, and this means that a Dellorto, Solex or Weber, or indeed a Ford or GM downdraft compound will physically bolt on in place of a Jikov. You may have to modify the throttle and/or choke operation and/or the carb top plate or air cleaner base, but if you can buy one that's already jetted for your engine, all you need to do is set the idle and mixture screws, then drive off into the sunset. If you want more power, then the picture changes; now we want to fit a horizontal twin choke carb on a different manifold, and unless you can buy one ready jetted for your engine, you will need a bot of jets and some rolling road time, but the results can be spectacular. I've seen a 5 port Skoda 1300 engine with custom manifolds and silencer, and a Weber 40 DCOE carb making 120 bhp at the wheels, call it twice what the standard engine makes at the flywheel.

Take the bulbs out?

Indy over main stealer every time.

These actually sound like advantages to me!

I'd doubt it; check whether or not the camshafts themselves have different part numbers. I don't have a parts catalogue but I've a suspicion they will due to different base circles and/or ramps, and/or lifts.

If you don't think the tensioner and pulleys are fairly new, belt kit and pulleys, plus water pump, and the bill'll still be at most £500 from an independent.

If you can change oil you can change a seat belt. It's literally 3 bolts for a 3 point belt, and one for a lap belt. BTW it's legal to use the car, just not to carry 3 rear seat passengers.

Which engine? I'd normally say about 1.5 the cambelt interval on a petrol, but you've put "dpf" which is a diesel thing.

And 110% of the time he doesn't like other people giving advice that differs from his (although it's fine for him to contradict them). This thread is a case in point, where an FMIC doesn't make more power because it's an FMIC, but it does allow you to deliver cooler air into the engine, so that can be fuelled more aggressively, which will make more power with a big turbo and custom map.

I do get that, but shipping single body panels inter-continental is difficult and expensive.

There may be an underbonnet insulation moulding for the diesel variants if there are any?

Also @Kwaziewabbit Well, they might, if the only reason they came on was low voltage.

Also @Kharl if they unstick and aren't actually bent that is. Because for sure they won't unbend themselves.

He does say "Skoda Octavia 2" in his user details. Although I agree we don't know which of the 3 heating systems this is.

Halogen? If so, then drive around with them on for an hour or two and it'll dry out.

As others, get a battery deep load test (usually free if the testing establishment gets the business if you do need a new battery). Also, when you first switch on, does the battery warning light illuminate? If not, I suspect a fault in the alternator control wires, regardless of battery health.

NO!!. New lifters will wear to the camshaft over the first 500 miles (800 km) after your first start with them fitted.

I've never heard that one before. I'd advise refitting used tappets (solid or hydraulic) and rocker arms in the same positions because of wear patterns though.

I've never worked on a Jikof, and only once on a Pierberg (to remove it and fit a Weber kit), but a bent choke plate has to be deliberate sabotage! (I have worked on Dell'orto, Solex, SU and Weber).

Never heard of this "Lisyus" brand. Not even remotely impressed with that garage's "workmanship" though.

Also @chillingPunk It seems odd to me too. I've been in something like 6 crashes; in 3 of them the car I was in was struck from behind by another driver, and I'm pleased to not have footage of the other 3 (in one of which I rear-ended someone).