KenONeill

911 Carrera 3.0?

Well boss, power costs. How fast can you afford to go?

Where, exactly, are you finding these descriptions?

Black Magic is the name of a colour; Monte Carlo is a trim level.

Assuming it's not below the minimum mark on the dipstick, yes.

I'm guess you've not turned "lane enforce" off, in which case it maybe wasn't happy with your lane centralisation.

That's exactly what the recirculate (not recycle) button does. Air conditioning does more than just chill intake air. It also aims for a relative humidity of about 70%, and may heat and/or chill, or both the intake to obtain your demand temperature at RH 70. It can't do this in recirc mode.

The problem with all this is that your cooling system is under positive pressure when the car is at operating temperature. That is why one of the alternative names for the "radiator cap" is the "pressure cap". What @Wino is describing above is a mechanism whereby this cap can leak pressure, giving the symptoms you describe, but the issue is not HGF, rather either the neck of the expansion tank is worn or the cap itself needs replaced. Both of these jobs are way cheaper, easier and faster than replacing the head gasket.

I think you have to switch off "Lane Enforce" completely, before every journey.

Which type of headlights do you have? This would make the car illegal if you have plasma discharge or LED headlights.

Big hint - The ambient temperature is lower in Winter.

With a computer. No, really. You need something like VCDS or OBD11 and are looking for a setting called something like "going home lights".

@varaderoguy _ I just read this thread. The instructions for a headlight bulb change on a Honda Jazz read:_ Put the steering on full lock and remove the wheel arch liner. Working inside the arch... I stopped reading at that point and decided to not offer my old +30% bulbs to my sister!

Why? The most obvious difference between a 5W and a 10W oil is that the 5W flows faster on a cold start, so you get pressure sooner. I used Mobil 1 0W-30 in my Citroens and there I would get the oil pressure light going out before the engine even fired.

That's a single point injection throttle body. It does the same job as a carburettor used to but with more accurate fuel metering. The issue comes when one or more of the engine sensors starts giving bad data. So you can either throw money at the car until you get lucky, or get the fault codes read to establish what's out of specification.

Exhaust manifolds are often oiled when new. If you do a couple of 10 mile trips at NSL, that should burn off.

@cwm2g - OK, on XL tyres, these are really only necessary for heavily laden cars or cars which spend long periods on high speed roads (think several hours on autobahn at 100mph+, not just the Scottish motorways. On the battery, maybe take the car to a good fast fit place or a local garage, and ask them to do a deep load test. Most of them will do this for free, on the understanding that they get the business if you need a replacement battery.

They've been like this on Skodas since the 1990s.

Brake lights were only in pairs when the EU ruled that only one rear fog had to be activatable on any specific car.

Rightly or wrongly, this would only normally apply to Japanese cars.

In English we call that a "shopping list" (of stuff you'd like to buy and fit but haven't).

Yes; it means that the starter motor isn't turning the gearbox input shaft.

@TrevorB33 I'm always interested in a really good build thread.

At that rate I'm pretty certain you have an issue with either the engine temperature sensor or the gauge/cluster electronics. Fixing/replacing the sensor is easier.

Well, there was one Trabant I saw in Germany that had stick-on lettering reading "Trabi Twin Turbo 16 Valve Water Injection", which only just fitted between the rear lights!