Ecomatt

If it was my car it would be either my elbows or neck🤣

Didn't find it necessary in fairness. I was gentle on them and didn't do any harsh braking initially. I just gradually use them with slightly more pressure each time and they are bedding in fine. I looked on TRW website and there is no official bedding in procedure. I always find that if you are gentle on pads and allow them to bed in gradually. They tend to work better as sometimes doing lots of high speed stops can cook the pad and makes it less efficient.

Hopefully this will help

I fitted the front discs and pads today. The old pads had a lot of pad left on them but the discs were knackered on the inside. Once on I took it out for a drive expecting the first brake to be a 'will it stop in time'. However from the off there was a nice bite to them and they are getting better the more I use them. There is a nice progressive feel to them rather than the on off of the older ones. I will have to wait to do the rears as I realised my wind in caliper tool and spline kit is at my parents house......150 miles away!! So will pick them up and get the rears done next weekend.

I place mine under the front sub frame where the mounts are.

Thankfully the ones I ordered are. I only went TRW as they are oe on many VAG platforms but a lot cheaper than stealer prices. Almost got the Jurid pads but thought I would try the TRW pads. My usual go to pad is Pagid. The front discs on the car have done nearly 80,000 miles so I highly doubt I will need to change them again during my ownership. The front pads and rear disc/pads were fitted by the previous owner about 2 years ago, but the bell housing is rusty so changed them purely for aesthetics.

I ordered a full set of discs and pads for my Octavia VRS. Given the fact I have the more expensive 340mm fitted to my car. I got the whole set of TRW discs and pads for £176 including postage from Autodoc. I opted for the painted bell housing to hopefully stop the unsightly rust showing through the wheels. The pads came with new caliper bolts and guides for the pads. The pads themselves had shims fitted the full length of the pad and looked really well made. I looked at other shops but none were as competitive pricing wise. The nearest competitor price was almost £150 more for lesser brakes. I am glad I took the risk as I have saved myself a lot of money. They took 10 days to arrive as the company is based in Berlin but if you are not in a rush, it is worth the wait. They sell loads of makes of brakes such as Jurid, TRW, Brembo, Pagid and some I haven't heard of. Now I just need to get some nice weather to fit them.

Make sure you only mix them per axle. When i got my car I had 235 on the front and 225 on the rear

It is because they contain absorbed glass fibre fleece.

Racing blue. I have one in that colour. Definitely the fastest colour out of all the colours 🤣

I would consider buying obdeleven as a diagnostic tool. But if you suspect the battery I would get a meter on it and measure it with the engine off. After start up and then load test it by switching on everything, lights, main beam, fan on full, heated windscreens, mirrors and radio. Then test the voltage. If the voltage drops massively it would point to battery or alternator. My bet would be battery. You could fit your own battery and code it with obdeleven. I have it and the amount of work I have done on the car. It has paid for itself ten time over.

Did you buy this car from a dealer? I ask that because if you did and it was from Northern Ireland you are still covered under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. You can take the car back to the garage that sold you it and they have to repair it. Your car has a 6 month warranty on it under that act as it has to be fit for purpose. The dealer cannot refuse as the act is law and makes them liable.

0W 30 will flow better when cold as it is thinner than 5w 30. The 0 weight is more for conditions when air temp is below freezing and you need the oil to circulate. In hot weather you need a thicker oil as it will dissipate the heat better and is why VW chose 5W over 10W. 5W works well in both cold and warmer climates. If you are in a really hot country then 10W would be better. All the oils will eventually go to 30W when hot but it is all about the warm up phase and what better protects the engine with the different oil weights.

I have always used 5w 30 longlife. I did not think you could use 0w 30 in the diesels. The last oil change I used Miller Oils and is really good and the engine is a lot quieter.

Reading this and seeing those figures reminds me of why I do not miss my old petrol performance cars. Seeing 15mpg again on my dashboard would give me nightmares. I now prefer to see 50+ happy in the knowledge I am not wasting my money on fuel like I used to. My old MK1 Focus RS was very thirsty and only got 230 miles to a tank if I was lucky. Meant I was putting in £45 (back then Shell Optimax was just hitting 99p a litre in 2003) every 4 days as work was 50 miles round trip. Now in comparison I pay about £60 to fill the tank from empty but can easily get 500+ miles to a tank.

If you want Asy 5 then go with the top one. The Supersports are like the MP4 S are to the MP 4.

Some pads come with a caliper screw as part of the kit.

I have Asy 5s on mine in 235 35 R19. They give excellent feedback and grip in all weathers, well apart from the obvious snow where no summer tyre really works. Most reviews put the Asy 5 and the Michelin counterpart side by side in terms of grip and wear. But they do say the Asy 5 give better feedback and sportier feel due to the stiffer sidewall. I have been over some bumps in the road and the sidewalls are holding up with no bulges or damage. Plus the tyre wears well and appears to be lasting.

The mpgs will be lower if you do lots of town and city driving. These cars are not true 4x4 as the rear axle is on only active when pulling away or when the car senses a loss of traction. Add in extra weight and higher drag efficiency and you have a less economic car. But the trade off is it is better in adverse weather conditions.

I thought I got away lightly. Better that than having to take out the flap motor to remove the bulb.

Was sat in my car with 2.5 year old daughter whilst wife was in the shop. Daughterbwas getting bored and was playing in my car. Sat in the front passenger seat, opens glovebox and messes around in there. Next thing I know she is stood up and drops something into the top air vent. Great. Unfortunately when removing said vent it has distorted out of shape. Turns out it was an old interior bulb she had dropped in there. But I thought better a damaged vent than it falling into the flap motor. Call to dealer and it is £84 for a new one. I love my daughter.

I have passed caring now 🤣

My economy has dropped by 2 to 3 mpgs since I serviced the car but it will, as I put a new air filter in every service. More air going in so more fuel being used but I would rather it that way as I take care of my cars ocd. Also tried Miller Oils this time as opposed to my usual choice of quantum. Also some oil cleaner from liqui moly to see if it that helps with the oil usage on the engine. I haven't seen a drop in economy using winter fuel as it is not that different apart from an anti waxing agent put in. But I do tend to use Vpower purely because it produces less soot for the dpf and does give me better economy overall. Plus cleans the fuel system from the inside so win win.

Basically the links you have added back up what I have said. But it also doesn't bring into the equation of height. A car at sea level will make more power than a car (lets say) at 500ft above sea level because of air density. There are plenty of factors that effect how efficiently a car will run like you say. I live near the coast and it was 6c here yesterday morning. Quite a bit lower than the 18c during the day and my economy is always lower in the morning than when I go home. I enjoy these discussions because that is what a forum is about.

Disagree. Cooler air has more oxygen so the ecu compensates with more fuel. Warmer air is less dense so carries less oxygen, so the ecu compensates and uses less fuel. The weather need only be a few degrees lower and it does alter the air pressure and economy, hence why we have both map and maf sensors to compensate; which can equate to 1 or 2 mpgs of economy by itself. To get a good comparison ideally you would need the car in test conditions in a lab and alter the pressure and temp of the air. That way it would give a more representative value for the decrease in mpgs with the E10. Either way the E10 won't be as good as E5 but we are all about going green to save the planet...apparently.