Ecomatt

That is a lot of money on just discs and pads. Perhaps if you do track days they may help a little. But for normal road use you wont notice the difference.

I get a bit of discount with the job I do so they were a lot cheaper for me. However their service tops any dealership I have been too. Always have a courtesy car available when you need one. I cant fault them.

@SashaGracemay be able to assist with this one

Why don't you look at black circles and see people's reviews of garages. I always say to garages there isnt a mark on my alloys so they take extra care. Plus I take the car in clean so they can see there are no marks.or scuffs. Also take some cleaner and a cloth to wipe off the soap to check the rims before you leave. That way there can be no argument about any damage caused.

Also OBDELEVEN works. I have it as it was a bit cheaper than VCDS plus it works on my phone. Very easy to adapt a new battery.

Yes. Excellent garage with top level of service.

Make sure you have a new map to ensure it works fine, as it will run more boost and may cause issues later on with excess heat. Better to be safe and make sure.

As above I would do a load test to see what the battery is doing when started etc. A battery may show 12v with no load applied. But when you try and start the car can quickly drop the voltage.

Some were set at variable or fixed service plans. I wouldnt worry about it being a bit late as it looks like it was mainly driven on motorways etc given the high milegae in the first year. You can switch to a fixed service. The good thing is you have service history. It wouldn't put me off from buying it.

I updated my Bolero yesterday and thought I would share my experience. I searched the Internet and only got bits of what to do and not fully. What you need An SD card formatted in FAT32 The update file. A pc laptop with an unzip programme. I started by downloading the update file to my laptop. I initially used winzip to unzip the files but I later found that didnot fully work. So I used a programme called 7zip. Free to download and easy to use. I followed a lot of posts on various forums that said you unzip the file to the root of the SD card. What it doesnt say is that you need to copy the contents of the folder and not just the folder itself. (Once unzipped) So for me that was click on MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T. That will open and there will be lots of folders including a .txt file. Copy those directly onto the SD card. I initially unzipped the file directly to the folder and not the contents. That just left that one folder on the SD card. So when I did the update it didn't work and got stuck on the emergency bootloader screen. I thought I had bricked the radio as it would not read any files. That was until I did the above, then it worked fine...phew!! I accessed the update screen by switching on the radio. Inserting the SD card. Holding down the menu button and selecting update. That then starts the process off. It took about 30 mins in total and you can do it with the engine switched on. The file updated 89 modules. Afterwards I had a B021A fault code on the multimedia 5f control unit. No matter what I did it would not delete. So I researched this and realised you need a new hex code to get the update accepted. After some research I came across a website which helped. http://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/?key=948 Using VCDS or OBDELEVEN you go into 5f control unit. Adaptions and then look for Confirmation of Installation change. Click into that and that shows a key. Normally 4 letters or figures. Mine was 3 numbers. You then copy that key into the link above and that generates a new hex key. Go back to the adaptions and enter that new key in place of the old one. Save it and the fault code will go away. I hope it makes sense the way I have written it and thought it may help someone out who got a bit stuck like me.

You are covered by the Consumer Rights Act 2015. You can reject the car within the first 30 days if it isnt fit for purpose. Clearly that seat isnt in the condition it is in. I would tell the garage if it isnt fixed before the 30 day limit then you will reject the car and look elsewhere. Put it in writing hand delivered or posted with proof of delivery or on an email to cover yourself. They can't argue or quibble as it is law and they cannot go against it. If they agree to do any work get it in writing what they will do and a time limit. You have to be very blunt with companies these days and get it written down as proof, in case it ever got as far as court. It also shows you are taking it very seriously by documenting everything. The only resolution I would be happy with is a new seat being fitted and nothing less. Dont be afraid to escalate it. I once escalated a complaint to the CO of Evans Halshaw and I won my complaint.

Hello. Would you be able to send me the link please as I have been looking to do this. Cheers Matt

It is more than just a stalk as it is a different control unit for ACC. I would imagine it has been miss-sold as having it. Skoda can tell you what it came with from the factory if you contact a dealer or Skoda direct.

One mod I am looking at doing is the following https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-aluminium-charge-pipe-kit-for-mk7-platform-vehicles.html Should help the engine breath a lot easier. Your best investment would be a stage 1 map and that should get you around 210bhp and improved driveability. I have been toying with that idea as I have the same car as you with DSG. But the std car is plenty fast enough. Your brakes should be the 340mm brakes so shouldn't need changing. You can change the rear arb as mentioned to help turn in. But in all honesty I like the balance of the car as standard. Also dampers and Springs can be changed but expect a firmer ride. The std intercooler is fine for upto 300bhp on these engines. The only mod I have done is to fit the blanking plate and remove the snow grate. I have kept the std filter as again it is fine for diesels and easily flows enough air on a stage 1 Golf R. It all depends on what you feel needs to be improved on the car.

It might be front assist that you have.

I have the Canton system and dont have any issues with the sound quality. I think the main issue people have with it is that it can sound flat. However that is how music should sound and not over eq'd with bass boost this and that. We have too many digital filters nowadays and music is heavily over processed, which might sound good to some ears but not mine. The subwoofer could do with a bit more oomph but not much more. I dont want some max power type system in my car. The canton system is a decent system

Depends if you are halogen or xenon headlights.

Cone filters will add noise but you not much. You can fit the intakes such as the R600 and others but they are a lot of money for little performance gains and noise. Have you looked at fitting a turbo intake pipe with muffler delete. You will get more turbo noise with that.

It has slightly increased my mpgs with the plate fitted and I also removed the snow grate in the airbox. I wouldnt think opening the passenger side would make a deal of extra difference with diesel as you need extra diesel rather than air to make more power. Petrol would benefit more as they need more air to help make more power. I am not opening mine up. The open back design was more to reduce the debris being sucked into the airbox as opposed to coolong etc. The same design was used on the mk2 TFSi to help keep thebair filter cleaner for longer. The idea is that the turbocharger will suck in what air it needs from the air flow and the rest will just flow by into the engine bay. It doesn't aid cooling at any speed as there is plenty of ventilation around the bay and under it to aid with that. My engine temps and oil temps are the same before and after fitting the plate.

After a bit of trial and error and I have finally got my car as I like it. I tried the driver profile switchover from incremental to direct. At first I thought it made a difference to the throttle response and gearbox changes. However after doing lots of driving and trials I have now decided upon it does nothing apart from alter how quickly the profiles switchover. Now onwards to the brakes. There is a function called starting vibration reduction. This basically applies the brakes to the front wheels when they are spinning. I deactivated that and the throttle seems so smooth now and more eager to pick up. With it switched on it seems like there is a heaviness to the throttle and how thr engine picks up. Almost tardy with the response. With it off it is silky smooth. Now driver profiles. Going between VRS and Normal mode. I found the best balance is in VRS mode and the DSG in D. The gears move up and down very smoothly in that setting and nowbis always in the right gear. When slowing down to take a corner, sometimes in Normal and D it would stay in 3rd gear. Now when slowing down in VRS and D, it goes into 2nd and the changes are quick and snappy. The jerk sometimes between 1st and 2nd when cold has gone. Very happy with it now and it drives and reacts like it should.

Have you run the separate pumps via vcds to get the coolant moving?

Sounds like there might be an airlock somewhere. Id try the test bleed function a few times to see if that circulates the coolant around.

On my OBDeleven there is an option to resetting of learned values of turbocharger. You might need to reset the stored values before doing the basic setting.

I think there should be a live data for the actuator to see what voltage it is. I believe the basic setting is done through the turbocharger adaption. It might be worth contacting someone like darkside developments who are excellent and he might be able to talk you through the process.

Has the wastegate been properly pre loaded as I know they are done by voltage rather than distance. It sounds like the wastegate has too much preload.