Ecomatt

As said earlier these engines by design are not good for tuning. If it is big power you are after, you would be better selling that car and getting an Audi 3.0tdi0 which have 240bhp as standard. They map to about 280+bhp at stage 1. To even to get 250bhp it will be a new turbo charger, downpipe, exhaust fuel pump. Easily 4k to get that done. Mine is the std 184 VRS and is plenty quick enough as standard. Not to mention if your car is on pcp or hp is a no go. Id try a simple stage 1 map as that should give about 210bhp (despite what tuners say. The std turbo is only good for 210bhp).

Perhaps @SashaGracemay be able to help you.

As above. Check your oil cap and dipstick. Seems odd your car was fine before the MOT and since then it is running rough. My bet is that he/she has not replaced something properly during the test.

Id take it out or replace the expansion bottle. No one will bother to check the type fitted when in the garage for any kind of work. Equally you wouldn't lose your warranty for removing the silica bag. Some dealers do this as standard ,as they know the issues people have had with them.

It makes me wonder why the ST is so heavy given it is s smaller car than the Octavia.

Makes for a good view and quite surprising. https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.motor1.com/news/459910/mk8-golf-gti-race-ford-focus-st/amp/

Exactly this. All that is needed is a corroded connection or very slight break in the wire for it to cause an issue. It might be worth getting that circuit checkes for resistance and if needs be, replace the faulty wire.

Misfires can be devils to diagnose. They can be related to faulting glow plugs, faulty glowplugs relay. Blocked injectors, Faulty EGR, EGR cooler faulty fuel warmer etc. As you have obdeleven you can monitor what the engine is doing by the live data function. That may point to a fault for you and help you out. It can also be a faulty engine temperature sensor giving incorrect readings. I cant see the cambelt being the issue as that would present a fault even when warm and would run rough.

The gearbox will react to your throttle input and change gear accordingly. It doesnt adapt to different drivers only the throttle input. It worth getting it reset so it can relearn positions and clamping pressures. I do mine once every 6 months as I have obdeleven. I wouldnt bother with a different dsg map as the standard map is pretty good.

Like most things nothing is guaranteed with cars. Usually DSG are reliable but some can fault. The same with manual gearboxes they can fault too. Hopefully it will be the lesser cost of the two for you. I would ask for a breakdown of costs to make sure you arent being overcharged. I would also ring round some VAG independent garages as they may do the work for less.

They should change the oil and then reset the dsg.

I would probably search for a good independent VAG specialist as they will use genuine parts. Kwik Fit I would steer clear of as they wont use genuine parts and likely not the best oil. I havent been to a Kwik Fit garage in almost 20 years.

If not financed it might be better to part ex it rather than sell privately. You can haggle more money from dealers as they want your business.

I think I would just say what you would like doing and get them to price it up.

Any electrical contact cleaner will do You can also use brake parts cleaner too.

You dont want to go too firm else you will lose grip and make the car into a bone shaker. Grip is generated by movement in the suspension. I always refer to how much movement BTCC cars have when warming up. The nose pitches and rolls as they warm the tyres up. People make the mistake of making the car too firm and can make the car handle worse.

If you arent using the car as much as you used to. I would buy a smart plug in solar charger to help keep it topped up.

The answer is as far as I am aware you cant. We have been driving cars for years without these aids and they are not needed. I find aids like these actually switch peoples reactions off as they are too reliant on them to help driving.

Batteries have a finitie life span. Some can go for years like my dads mondeo. His is 16 years old and on the original battery. Others can go in as little as a year.

Turn it off is my answer. I have. I dont rely on these systems to keep me in lane as I have eyes to do that.

My thoughts are that if the car is under warranty they should not have charged you to simply plug in a code reader, move the selector back and forth. I would take it up with the dealer principal. Also if the fault happens again try and get a photo of what message appears on the dash.

If you have vcds or obdeleven then you can deactivate starting vibration reduction in the brake control unit. That stops the brakes from clamping on when spinninh and allows the wheels to freely rotate. Might be worth a try.

Buy a 12mm glow plug removal tool and carefully undo. When tightening use a torque wrench and tighten to 15nm. Any more and you risk damaging the sensor. Also only replace with genuine plugs as I had mine go and fitted ngk plugs plus a genuine sensor plug. All went again so I fitted genuine Skoda pligs and not had an issue since.

I just think they are expensive for what they are. I could almost buy two 340mm brake discs for that price.

Over £100 for two tiny bits behind the steering wheel. Wow they know how to charge!